DIY lower your GE8 Fit
#242
If it is the one that holds it in the car, it should just come right off. We lowered ours today, and didnt even pull off the wiper cowl, and got ours right off with just an endwrench, and only a couple of fingers for leverage.
Now the one that holds the assembly together once it is out of the car has a lot of tension on it. Unless you use spring compressors, there is a lot of force against the upper hat, creating a lot of pressure on the upper nut. With spring compressors torqued down pretty good, the nut shouldnt be very tight at all.
#243
I was talking about the one that holds the assembly together. I used a spring compressor and it was stick on pretty tight. I ended up using a breaker bar on the alan key and a wrench. The other side wasn't as bad even though I didn't compress the springs as much.
#245
hey, GREAT DIY, but you should put the thing about the axle BEFORE they accidentally let the axle pop out. Any chance you can edit this for the future guys? it's a HUGE pain after you mess up. I know you have the little disclaimer, but it's after you've already said "installation is reverse..." took me 6 hours for the first wheel, and about 45 for the other 3 combined.
If that bolt is not coming loose, the tip of the shock piston will definetely strip before the allen wrench, so be careful.
#246
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Palm Coast FLA
Posts: 1,929
Originally Posted by jnesselroad
hey, GREAT DIY, but you should put the thing about the axle BEFORE they accidentally let the axle pop out. Any chance you can edit this for the future guys? it's a HUGE pain after you mess up. I know you have the little disclaimer, but it's after you've already said "installation is reverse..." took me 6 hours for the first wheel, and about 45 for the other 3 combined.
hey, GREAT DIY, but you should put the thing about the axle BEFORE they accidentally let the axle pop out. Any chance you can edit this for the future guys? it's a HUGE pain after you mess up. I know you have the little disclaimer, but it's after you've already said "installation is reverse..." took me 6 hours for the first wheel, and about 45 for the other 3 combined.
This... I was following a printed copy and didnt read this part until it was too late. Pulled both joints loose. Hopefully following the Emergency Spring Install Help thread will help. Also, I stripped the pass side with the 6mm trying to get the bolt looss that retains the spring. Took them to the localdealer on a saturday and one of the shop guys swapped the springs out with ease using their spring compressor and impact wrench.
If that bolt is not coming loose, the tip of the shock piston will definetely strip before the allen wrench, so be careful.
If that bolt is not coming loose, the tip of the shock piston will definetely strip before the allen wrench, so be careful.
okay i added it a little earlier. Its on post #16 now.
hope this helps people out before they get started.
#247
No, they do not. This has been addressed in the past a few times if I remember correctly.
#249
TJY
#250
how in the hell do you remove the bump stops from the front shocks? i tried pulling at them but they seem to be stuck like hell!
Ahh forget it ill just scrunch up the boot and go at it
Ahh forget it ill just scrunch up the boot and go at it
Last edited by WangLung; 05-04-2012 at 08:22 PM.
#252
After trying unsuccessfully for an hour to jiggle it into place (and getting it a few times but allowing it to come back out), I ended up cutting the boot retention bracket off the larger end of the boot, pulling the boot back and then you can see how it needs to go in easily. The grease stays in place for the most part, so there is little risk when pulling the boot back for a second. Ziptied the boot back on and it was fine.
I'd recommend picking up a new metal boot bracket before hand so you can do it correctly, as i still have the plastic ziptie on there and need to get back under there to replace it at some point.
may also want to use some rubber gloves in case some of the grease gets on your hands.
TJY
#253
nope. first, to put your mind at ease you should not have to replace the axle/joint.
After trying unsuccessfully for an hour to jiggle it into place (and getting it a few times but allowing it to come back out), I ended up cutting the boot retention bracket off the larger end of the boot, pulling the boot back and then you can see how it needs to go in easily. The grease stays in place for the most part, so there is little risk when pulling the boot back for a second. Ziptied the boot back on and it was fine.
I'd recommend picking up a new metal boot bracket before hand so you can do it correctly, as i still have the plastic ziptie on there and need to get back under there to replace it at some point.
may also want to use some rubber gloves in case some of the grease gets on your hands.
TJY
After trying unsuccessfully for an hour to jiggle it into place (and getting it a few times but allowing it to come back out), I ended up cutting the boot retention bracket off the larger end of the boot, pulling the boot back and then you can see how it needs to go in easily. The grease stays in place for the most part, so there is little risk when pulling the boot back for a second. Ziptied the boot back on and it was fine.
I'd recommend picking up a new metal boot bracket before hand so you can do it correctly, as i still have the plastic ziptie on there and need to get back under there to replace it at some point.
may also want to use some rubber gloves in case some of the grease gets on your hands.
TJY
#254
Im new on this, I just recently got a 2012 fit. And now im trying to install some Eibach Pro kit lowering springs (temp). Im nearly complete, I installed the rear and the driver's side. The only bump in the road now is i cannot get the bolt in to connect the shocks with the brake arms on the passenger side.
#255
Im new on this, I just recently got a 2012 fit. And now im trying to install some Eibach Pro kit lowering springs (temp). Im nearly complete, I installed the rear and the driver's side. The only bump in the road now is i cannot get the bolt in to connect the shocks with the brake arms on the passenger side.
I think the solution is basically turn and slowly push inward until it pops back in.
I used bungee cords to make mine stay put when I installed my Swifts.
#256
People/ Read the whole string and do as it says.
1- Tie up those axles first and foremost. At the rear make sure to disconnect the ABS( $200 approx to replace one at Honda)
2 - Bump stops do not need to be cut if using Swift Springs.
3- Take the cowling and wipers off. ( It only adds maybe 10 - 15 minutes at most. Use an impact wrench on those top bolts. No need for Allen key then.
4 - Use a spring compressor before you hurt yourself.
or
Do like I did. One of the guys at my local Dodge dealers is into mods. He did my springs in less than 1 1/2 hrs. Cost - $96 Cdn
1- Tie up those axles first and foremost. At the rear make sure to disconnect the ABS( $200 approx to replace one at Honda)
2 - Bump stops do not need to be cut if using Swift Springs.
3- Take the cowling and wipers off. ( It only adds maybe 10 - 15 minutes at most. Use an impact wrench on those top bolts. No need for Allen key then.
4 - Use a spring compressor before you hurt yourself.
or
Do like I did. One of the guys at my local Dodge dealers is into mods. He did my springs in less than 1 1/2 hrs. Cost - $96 Cdn
#257
I did use the bungee cords but it didnt really help. But after 7 hours later, finally got it aligned and able to stick the bolt in lol. But now i have one other issue. My friend thought of unbolting the tie rod for more space. Smart idea....... The nut to the tie rod got loose when I was driving and it popped out. Dangerous I know. But does anybody know the thread size of the tie rod end. I need to get a nut something close to it.
#260
Glad I read this DIY. Got my Red 2012 Fit last week and got in a set of Eibach Pro-Kit springs yesterday. Would of not had know of the front axle without reading this. I replaced my Miata shocks and springs with coilovers last year with handtools which I was quite surprised on a 16 year old car. On that car I had to push down the hub to get the shocks and springs out that would be a big mistake on this car. Again I am glad I read this.
My question is would it be better to support both the drivers and passenger side lower control arms and remove the endlinks at the same time to prevent any movement? (I have extra jack stands.) Or am I overreacting?
Also bump stop cutting any rule of thumb on the length to cut?
Thanks
Also found this on YouTube notice nothing holding up axle on passenger side http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0vZ4jRS99w
My question is would it be better to support both the drivers and passenger side lower control arms and remove the endlinks at the same time to prevent any movement? (I have extra jack stands.) Or am I overreacting?
Also bump stop cutting any rule of thumb on the length to cut?
Thanks
Also found this on YouTube notice nothing holding up axle on passenger side http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0vZ4jRS99w
Last edited by cjecpa; 06-08-2012 at 11:09 PM. Reason: Attachments