I got this from Tanabe. Notice drop rate VS vehicle average drop. sure the car will lower more than spec.

 

front is about 40mm and back is about 30mm
all numbers are +/- 2mm i think. but right around there.

 

Driving on Good Year Eagal F1 205\50\16 tires and Tanabe NF 210 springs is there much fender rubbing going hard over speed ramps etc or with a couple of people in the car.

 

Such a pain in the ass compared to the GD. So glad I didn't have to pull apart the wipers and panel and stuff. What happened to your rims dude? It would look REALLY good with the rims on.

 

you never sold me yours. lol
i have a bad one and one simi bad.
sell me yours and then i 'll be good.

 

Today I fitted a set of Tanabe NF 210's on my friends car. It lowered just like the specs said it would.

The gap between the tire and the fender is now a very tight 2 fingers all around. The front rubs the fender a little sometimes when going over bumps fast, but feels OK on flat roads with no noise.

There is one thing I forgot to do that was cut the bump stops. How much should I have cut off them?

I think Tanabe DF 210 or other springs with more than 30mm drop would rub the fender like crazy with my Good Year Eagal F1 205\50\16 tires.

 

Damn niko, I didn't know your rims were that bad. Mine look brand new still, since I barely ever drive the Accord. One has a super tiny bend on the inner wheel lip, but not even a scratch otherwise. two are missing the hub centric rings, but those are pretty easy to find for hondas. The shitty thing is they are discontinued so nobody carries them, which really sucks because they look so sick. I had the same thing happen on another set of rims(that I have 5 of, and 2 are taco'd beyond usable). My tires are still new, so if I do end up selling my rims, I would pull the tires(BFG G-Force rubber aren't the cheapest). PM me an offer, I took the rims off my car, it's on stocks now.

 

You may have done the right thing not cutting the bump stops. It will certainly guarantee that the shocks will not bottom out especially on a car that is lowered by 2" or more.

Most of the experienced mechanics do not recommend cutting the bump stops. I did not cut mine either when I installed the DF210 springs; car rides great and am very happy with the Tanabe DF210s.

Can't comment on the tire rubbing issue you might have with your Good Year Eagle F1 205/50 x 16 tires; guess a lot will depend on what rim width and offset your wheels have.

Have a close call to make myself as I will be installing a 17 x 7.5 +43 offset wheel with 205/45 x 17 tires. Fortunately, I saw Ben's GE8 with the same wheel specs, but running on 204/40 x 17 and he claims absolutely no rubbing even with 2 rear passengers. His FiT is lowered on teh new T1R lowering springs.

Keep us updated on your progress.

 

My drop is only 25mm or so on the front. How many fingers can you guys get between your tire and fender or wheel arch. My is a very tight 2 fingers or a bit less and that's with Tanabe NF

 

i recommend you both cut your bump stops.
you are both looking at about 10 to 15mm between bump
stop and bottoming out. you need more travel than that.

when i lowered mine i forgot to cut at first and after i put it
down i realized it was sitting on them.
Just a FYI for you both.

 

I wouldn't lower a car without cutting the bumpstops. There's much less suspension movement with stiffer springs, but there's also less room left to go when you are down like 2". Taking a half inch to an inch off the bottom of the bumpstops will keep it from getting excessively bouncy, as bumpstop hits are more common being lowered. Taking off a half inch to an inch depending on OEM length, means you have a little more room before you are riding the bumpstops.

 

before I forget.. I'd like to thankyou Niko3275 for the writeup. Made installing the HKS coils so much easier

 

I removed the front struts and cut 10mm of the bump stops all went well.

But I am left with the problem of the tire rubbing the fender going over imposible to avoid holes in the road, like I need another 5mm of clearance. I can't do much about the offset on my wheels. Any ideas?

This might be a crazy idea, but is it practical to have 5mm skimmed of the inside flange to make the wheel sit nearly flush with the fender?

 

No problem.







that might be possible depending on how much you have back there to
cut. a machine shop should be able to do it for you. i don't think you will be able to cut that much off though.
to me it sounds a little dangerous.

 

do you guys know where i can find a chart of all the prokit springs for ge? one that contains how low, how stiff.. etc etc ? is there such a chart for ge? hmmm

 

Ok, Problem solved. Some of the guys with the Lenso racing team in Thailand hooked me up with a good garage which takes care of problems like this.

1. They rolled the front fenders a bit. (Can't even tell it's been done. It's perfect).
2. Stiffened my front struts and rear shocks by friends in the factory. (Wow! nice and firm, not hard).
3. Re-aligned the car perfectly.

After 3 hours of work. There's no rubbing at all and the car feels like it's on a rail track with reduced body roll and sway. lets wait and see how long it lasts. Worth the 4 hours it took and the $100 they charged me. They even gave me few cans of cola and a double cheese burger for lunch.

 

Prokit is about as mild as you can get for a drop.

 

I have been trying to clear up the great debate about whether to cut bump stops or not with Tanabe NF 210 springs.

I decided to do a survey by e-mailing this question to 10 suppliers including Tanabe's head office.

All suppliers and intallation garages said NO. They all gave me a quick positive response. But the last one to reply was Tanabe's head office and they said YES, 30%.

I drove two 2009 fits with Tanabe NF 210 springs fitted. One with bumps stops cut and another uncut. I couldn't tell the differance running over varied road conditions and speeds.

I think bump stops only come into action if you go over lots of speed ramps very hard to stop the car bottoming out on the rebound, but could be a different story if you lower more than 30mm without stiffening the stuts.

 

What effect, was the car sitting too high or was it bouncing? I know it's sometimes hard to explain.

 

the front end was stiff no bounce at all. the car was sitting on the bump stops.
after i cut 40mm off the car got lower and the suspension was back to normal.
again my car was lowered on RS*S the front a 39mm drop and the back was a 32mm drop.