So, I'm a little confused about this axle popping out.
Does anyone have pictures or anything to better explain it?
I just want to be sure when I do it, I'm jacking it up in the right spot and jacking it up high enough. It sucks already to have to take off the front cowl, but the axle thing makes me iffy.

 

take a look at this pic. in this position the shock is fully extended.
just make sure you get a jack stand or a jack to hold the control
arm in it's place. just don't let it get any lower. jack it up higher if
anything. cause once you take out the two sturt bolts it will drop
and thats what your trying to avoid. this will cause the axle to
pull out of the socket it's in. then you have fun so try to avoid
that happening. well i hope this kind of explains it better.
good luck

 

hi guys,

quick question:

1. is it required to remove the bumpstops in the rear? if not, will it be an annoyance down the road (i.e. creaking noises, weird noises, danger in driving?)

2. If bumpstops were removed, and i wanted to go back to stock in the future, is it true that i have to buy the whole unit for the rear as stated by another member on this forum, rather than just buying new bumpstops?

 

That's what Honda told me about the rear, but you can buy aftermarket bumpstops easily if you know the size. Measure them before you cut them.

 

Bilstien B14 for Honda Jazz/Fit. Progressive springs with a 0-30mm drop.

Honda Jazz B14

http://www.hondajazzlover.com/forum/...?topic=18079.0

 

Thanks for this DIY! I followed it to a T and it all worked great. To remove that metal collar I first opened it up with one pass of the dremel along the seam, then a strong screw driver. To pop the bumpstop back in I just used a vice grip and a soft pad in front of the metal end and it literally went POP back in. For the second bumpstop I just held the boot with all my might while my friend cut it.

btw this is all for my mom's Fit (early x-mas present) on DF210s 17x7 +42 with 205/40/17

For the bumpstops I cut them just like yours and have no problems. Tanabe recommended cutting 30% and yours was just about that much. I DID encounter the dreaded axle pop out lol though I had no idea that's what it was because I took every precaution to prevent it (jackstand under control arm AND bucket under rotor haha).
check here for my thread where some guys helped me through it (and god bless them):

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...tall-help.html

There are pics of the final product too.

Final word, I had to use TWO sets of camber bolts up front (both top and bottom 19mm bolts are now fastcam bolts) and 2.25 degrees of negative camber in front to prevent rubbing. But good news is it only rubbed on HUGE bumps going 50mph or more. Bad news is that socal freeways are nothing but one huge bump after another haha. Those who know the 405 know what I'm talking about.

hope this info helps

also, my mint sport rims with 8k only on them are for sale, haha.

 

This is the outcome of following this DIY. t1r s-coils

 

looks good and nice pic

 

how is the ride on the T1R's? I need something that will lower and ride good. Unlike my PIC's, which are rough as hell on the road, but on the track its a different story.

 

actually i feel like the ride comfort feels the same as stock. Its not like I take super fast tight turns all day. I took it around a circle in my block and it feels nice and tight, but daily driving normally feels as smooth as stock.

 

I have DF210 and my friend installed T1Rs.
The ride on his car is noticably harder compared to mine.
Both cars are on stock shock absorbers.

 

Nice thread! great work! will be using this soon for my fit!

 

Hey Nick,

I just noticed a nice correction can be made here.

The rear shock collars, you do not have to pry them open to get to the rear bump stops. Just put the allen wrench in the shock end, clamp a vice grip on the collar. Then apply a little bit of pull up pressure while turning the vice grip counter clock wise. They simply unscrew right off.
I have done it twice this way. Back early summer with springs/cutting bump stop and a month ago when I installed air shocks. Sorry I did not mention this sooner.

Sorry if someone else caught this. I didn't go back and read the 10 pages of posts.

Mike

 

thats Mike.
never thought of doing that cause they just looked so tight.
guess we learned something new.
thanks

 

Well Nick all your DIY's are so dang good and helpful, it is a wonder I was able to find a bit of a short cut.

 

LOL
thanks for the props Mike.
i edited my post and added the info you stated
in the proper section.
hopefully this makes everyones experience easier

 

Ok, So my dad (pro mechanic) and I installed my DF210's at his garage this afternoon. We were able to do the fronts without removing any extra plastic, wiper motor, etc. using a small allen bit in the top of the struts, and a small wrench. I'm not sure it was any easier than removing all the plastic, but it worked.

I've got a small problem now, though. We road tested it, and everything looks and rides well, but after I got it home, I noticed a small squeak. When sitting still, If I turn the wheel all the way clockwise, then quickly turn back counterclockwise, there's a rub/squeak sound that seems to be coming from the top of the passenger strut, right about when the wheel passes the 1/4 turn mark.

Everything went back together without a hitch, the only exception being that the axle on the passenger side seemed to bind up and wouldn't rotate without a little coercion, while we were reinstalling the passenger-side strut.

I'm going to take it in for an alignment check this week, and I'll ask the techs to troubleshoot, but I figured I'd see if anyone else has experienced anything similar. There appears to be no actual problem, and the squeak only occurs in the exact circumstances I explained above. Turning the wheel slowly back, doesn't do it, and it only does it when turning counterclockwise in that one position.

 

Took it to the shop tonight after the squeak got worse. Simple problem, the lower rubber collar at the top of the strut was a tiny bit crooked, and when the strut rocked, the collar rotated unevenly, causing the noise. Very easy to fix...the problem was getting the car up onto one of the lifts at my dad's garage. The frame was touching on the alignment rack, so we had to use the hydraulic post lift...only it's really old and doesn't sink all the way into the floor. Fine for most cars, but the lowered fit wouldn't clear without climbing onto 2x4s first.

Ah, the joys of a lowered suspension. Everything is perfect now, though, and I couldn't be happier.

 

me and fitdeez installed the dropzone springs on our fits,..
we didnt cut the bumpstops.. i kinda just wanna confirm, if we did, would it ride lower?

 

if your cars have springs that lower 1.2'' they should be cut.
i forgot to cut my front one and the car was sitting on bump
stop when i put it back down.
but then again min was 1.5 in the front and 1.2 in the rear.