My JDM DISK BRAKE RS Rear Axle conversion
Hellow fellow subscribers!
Figured Id bring some closure to this thread as I purchased the discs and calipers from Alpina.
I ended up making the brackets myself out of 1/4" plate steel.
Using a miter saw with cutoff wheel to get the peice to its general shape.
A hole saw on a drill press to cut the center to clear the spindle and hub.
Drill press to drill bolt holes.
and final shape was achived using a combination 4 1/2" cutoff wheel and sawsall with a good metal blade.
Finally some love with a bench grinder and dremmel to get it just right.






Hooked up the lines and bled them, e-brake cables are just zip tied for now untill I sort that out.
Been driving with them for 3 days now and they feel ok, I need to bleed one more time and it should be good.
They are mounted a bit high due to the back of the beam protruding out and Im not concerned about the looks enough modify the offending protrusion.
Lastly I need to get rid of that canary yellow! I hate yellow!
Figured Id bring some closure to this thread as I purchased the discs and calipers from Alpina.
I ended up making the brackets myself out of 1/4" plate steel.
Using a miter saw with cutoff wheel to get the peice to its general shape.
A hole saw on a drill press to cut the center to clear the spindle and hub.
Drill press to drill bolt holes.
and final shape was achived using a combination 4 1/2" cutoff wheel and sawsall with a good metal blade.
Finally some love with a bench grinder and dremmel to get it just right.
Hooked up the lines and bled them, e-brake cables are just zip tied for now untill I sort that out.
Been driving with them for 3 days now and they feel ok, I need to bleed one more time and it should be good.
They are mounted a bit high due to the back of the beam protruding out and Im not concerned about the looks enough modify the offending protrusion.
Lastly I need to get rid of that canary yellow! I hate yellow!
Hellow fellow subscribers!
Figured Id bring some closure to this thread as I purchased the discs and calipers from Alpina.
I ended up making the brackets myself out of 1/4" plate steel.
Using a miter saw with cutoff wheel to get the peice to its general shape.
A hole saw on a drill press to cut the center to clear the spindle and hub.
Drill press to drill bolt holes.
and final shape was achived using a combination 4 1/2" cutoff wheel and sawsall with a good metal blade.
Finally some love with a bench grinder and dremmel to get it just right.
Hooked up the lines and bled them, e-brake cables are just zip tied for now untill I sort that out.
Been driving with them for 3 days now and they feel ok, I need to bleed one more time and it should be good.
They are mounted a bit high due to the back of the beam protruding out and Im not concerned about the looks enough modify the offending protrusion.
Lastly I need to get rid of that canary yellow! I hate yellow!
Figured Id bring some closure to this thread as I purchased the discs and calipers from Alpina.
I ended up making the brackets myself out of 1/4" plate steel.
Using a miter saw with cutoff wheel to get the peice to its general shape.
A hole saw on a drill press to cut the center to clear the spindle and hub.
Drill press to drill bolt holes.
and final shape was achived using a combination 4 1/2" cutoff wheel and sawsall with a good metal blade.
Finally some love with a bench grinder and dremmel to get it just right.
Hooked up the lines and bled them, e-brake cables are just zip tied for now untill I sort that out.
Been driving with them for 3 days now and they feel ok, I need to bleed one more time and it should be good.
They are mounted a bit high due to the back of the beam protruding out and Im not concerned about the looks enough modify the offending protrusion.
Lastly I need to get rid of that canary yellow! I hate yellow!
I wish I had the experience to build the bracket myself !
Do you feel any differences in braking power and the brake bias?
did it reduce the nose dive?
and how about the seal?
did you end up replacing the caliper seal or the caliper seal was still good?
Oh, and for the parking brake cable, which one do you use?
from Civic ? which model / year or part number?
I am just curious, Thanks
by the way,
I still have the JDM Fit RS rear axle that come together with that caliper and brake disk that I sold to you...
but since I am currently tight on budget (actually out of budget hahaha)
so I still haven't buy the JDM Integra Type R rear caliper that I plan to use for my application...
Wow,
I wish I had the experience to build the bracket myself !
Do you feel any differences in braking power and the brake bias?
did it reduce the nose dive?
and how about the seal?
did you end up replacing the caliper seal or the caliper seal was still good?
Oh, and for the parking brake cable, which one do you use?
from Civic ? which model / year or part number?
I am just curious, Thanks
by the way,
I still have the JDM Fit RS rear axle that come together with that caliper and brake disk that I sold to you...
but since I am currently tight on budget (actually out of budget hahaha)
so I still haven't buy the JDM Integra Type R rear caliper that I plan to use for my application...
I wish I had the experience to build the bracket myself !
Do you feel any differences in braking power and the brake bias?
did it reduce the nose dive?
and how about the seal?
did you end up replacing the caliper seal or the caliper seal was still good?
Oh, and for the parking brake cable, which one do you use?
from Civic ? which model / year or part number?
I am just curious, Thanks
by the way,
I still have the JDM Fit RS rear axle that come together with that caliper and brake disk that I sold to you...
but since I am currently tight on budget (actually out of budget hahaha)
so I still haven't buy the JDM Integra Type R rear caliper that I plan to use for my application...
I pulled hub off 5 times each time have to disconnect brake line and e-brake.
First to get measurements, then to test template... make corrections, test template again... make bracket, then test fit bracket... make adjustments, and finally test bracket again and was happy with fit.
These all occur generally on random weeknights after work and kids in bed till 12-1am then work next day so everything needs to get back on properly bled and torqued.
Its allot of work with a very real deadline, but as they say its not work if you love what your doing... This is my passion and my escape from high stress job with long hours so not work at all.
As always the issue is time, there is never enough with a young career, kids and a household to keep up. Not to mention I collect hobbies like a hoarder collects old newspapers!
Making the bracket this way is very labor intensive, messy, loud and sometimes painful (think bench grinder/cutoff wheel W/shorts and flipflops
) because the garage is damn hot and humidity has been 80-100% lately. (Looking at diy zinc coating for brackets)I cant get a read on the feel yet it has been raining very heavy since I got them installed and abs is ever present with rain and these tires. I tried to bed them when it stopped raining for a bit, but road was still wet and dont think I got them bedded good.
The e-brake is not connected yet just zip tied to axle beam, had to stop at 1 am after installing calipers lines and bleeding them sunday night, then up at 5am with the kids, off to work which turned into a 13hr day. still a bit burnt out a couple days later (notice I said I been driving on them 3 days only 2 days after
) .My first plan of attack on these is to use stock cables just reroute and modify. I did some just fitting and seems plausible, but may well need another set of cables.
Still left to do;
- sort e-brake
- paint/coat brackets and calipers
- get the proper length SS lines (will post Fragola part numbers for F/R )
I checked the seal on one caliper and all was good it looked, I figured it was fine as the oven cure is around 300-450? and calipers regularly see high temps (think brake fluid rated to 400-500).
Last edited by slimchriz; Jul 16, 2014 at 01:07 PM.
Just realized my update from a few weeks ago never posted here.
I got all the SS lines installed front and rear brakes feel good!
Nose dive is all but eliminated. Still havnt painted them yet got caught up with a SPRINTEX SC install and tuning.
I did notice rear pads are semi metallic where the front stockers are ceramic. Doesn't seem to be and issue with the electronic bias and all you can't tell.
Alpina can you measure the length of the parking brake cables so I have an idea what to look for? That would be much appreciated!
I got all the SS lines installed front and rear brakes feel good!
Nose dive is all but eliminated. Still havnt painted them yet got caught up with a SPRINTEX SC install and tuning.
I did notice rear pads are semi metallic where the front stockers are ceramic. Doesn't seem to be and issue with the electronic bias and all you can't tell.
Alpina can you measure the length of the parking brake cables so I have an idea what to look for? That would be much appreciated!
Total length of the parking brake cables from end to end about 69 to 70 inches.
-3an x 3/8 Banjo Adapter STEEL 650103
-3an x 10 x 1.0 B.F. Tubing Adapter STEEL 650205
-3an Hose Assembly Straight x Straight 36" 310036
-3an Hose Assembly Straight x 3/8 Banjo 24" 330024
-3an Hose Assembly Straight x 3/8 Banjo 18" 330018
-3an Hose Assembly Straight x 3/8 Banjo 20" 330020
Drivers side front line(330020) is slightly longer than passenger side(330018). I used 18" for both but I recommend one size up for extra slack here hence the part numbers listed.
One rear line is longer than any assembled line available hence the 36" straight to straight line(310036) and the banjo adapter(650103)
Note:
* These lines are just SS no covering,few bucks more a peice for clear or black.
I have some 1/2" clear shrink tube I used and also have PVC red Shrink tubing I will sell by the foot if anyone wants.
* The adapters have a slot so you can use the stock spring clip/retainers.
* Replaces both the rubber and the hardlines in the rear.
* Because there is one less joint in the rear there is a mount point for the hose that you will need to use or replace. I Used a piece of 3/8ths air hose with the brakeline routed through.
* Front lines have a bracket with 12mm bolt hole crimped on. I made a simple aluminum bracket with a pvc hose to route the line through.
Will get some pictures up to illustrate these issues.
Awesome, Thanks Alpina. Ill post compatible parts I find.
This is the only pic that I could get to upload between my iPhone and android, will need The aid of windows for others apparently.
See the aluminum bracket is just a flat piece with two holes, one for bolt and one big enough for the hose of choice.
The 3/8th/10mm banjo fitting is what the calipers use the other fittings which there are 4 of, connect the stock hard line bubble flair to -3an fitting that the hoses use.
I would put cost for all lines and fittings at roughly $100, but I'd have to do the math.
Parts list is all inclusive all parts are 1 each except for the bubble flare to 3an there are 4.
The jury still out on ebrake. Seems people are confused when you ask them to measure the cables and would rather not make the sale than to get a tape measure out lol.
EDIT adding pics,
Last edited by slimchriz; Aug 27, 2014 at 01:53 PM.
I used the BetaTech (Dow Chemical) Adhesive (used to be called Betalink),
a Polyurethane Adhesive to fill the bushing on my rear axle.
I hope I can finish this project soon,...
oh well, budget constrain as usual...




a Polyurethane Adhesive to fill the bushing on my rear axle.
I hope I can finish this project soon,...
oh well, budget constrain as usual...




Order:
1. Honda Civic FD2 Type R 1in Brake Master Cylinder
Part# 46100-SNW-J01,
Super GT Ltd.
2. Brake Bleeder Tool:
Motive Products: #0390 - Heavy Metal Magnum XLT
Motive Products Heavy Metal Magnum XLT
3. My Front Brake Pads is almost gone after only around 22k miles !
First I want to buy Honda OEM pads, but after shipping the price is about the same
as buying the Hawk HPS or EBC Green Stuff on Amazon...
finally decide on EBC Green Stuff:
EBC Brakes DP22041 Greenstuff 2000 Series Sport Brake Pad
This EBC brake pads should TEMPORARLY help with the brake bias that will move rearward when I install the Rear Disk brake with Integra type R caliper,
at least until I have budget to finally buy the FRONT 6 Piston Brembo Caliper Conversion
1. Honda Civic FD2 Type R 1in Brake Master Cylinder
Part# 46100-SNW-J01,
Super GT Ltd.
2. Brake Bleeder Tool:
Motive Products: #0390 - Heavy Metal Magnum XLT
Motive Products Heavy Metal Magnum XLT
3. My Front Brake Pads is almost gone after only around 22k miles !
First I want to buy Honda OEM pads, but after shipping the price is about the same
as buying the Hawk HPS or EBC Green Stuff on Amazon...
finally decide on EBC Green Stuff:
EBC Brakes DP22041 Greenstuff 2000 Series Sport Brake Pad
This EBC brake pads should TEMPORARLY help with the brake bias that will move rearward when I install the Rear Disk brake with Integra type R caliper,
at least until I have budget to finally buy the FRONT 6 Piston Brembo Caliper Conversion
Hawk pads have a habit of eating rotors up, they are EXCELLENT pads for increasing stopping power.
Also, you do not need 6 piston fronts. Integra Type R front calipers plus Hawk HPS pads OUTPERFORM wilwood 4 piston oversize brake setups. It has to do with the necessary rotor size increase causing a large increase in rotating inertia. Basically it is exactly like bolting on bigger heavier rims
Going 6 piston is overkill. Higher number of pistons does NOT improve performance if the pad is not capable of dealing with it. if the pads are not up to the task, you can eat your way through the pads in a matter of months (too much friction)
I think you will love the Hawk pads! Might make you change your mind!
Also, you do not need 6 piston fronts. Integra Type R front calipers plus Hawk HPS pads OUTPERFORM wilwood 4 piston oversize brake setups. It has to do with the necessary rotor size increase causing a large increase in rotating inertia. Basically it is exactly like bolting on bigger heavier rims
Going 6 piston is overkill. Higher number of pistons does NOT improve performance if the pad is not capable of dealing with it. if the pads are not up to the task, you can eat your way through the pads in a matter of months (too much friction)
I think you will love the Hawk pads! Might make you change your mind!
On both my previous Integra and Civic I went the cheaper OEM DIY big brake kit for front and rear. It was absolutely great and it's something I plan on doing come Spring to my Fit. What's nice about using USDM OEM parts is because the parts are cheap and easy to come across. I just need to find the right length ebrake cable and caliper brackets and I'm good to go.
For the front use Integra Type R calipers with Mini Cooper rotors. For the rear use RSX Type S rear calipers and EP3 rotors.
I ordered my "kits" from ProParts on both previous occasions:
ProParts USA Integra Brake Kit Upgrade - ProParts USA - Low Price Performance Aftermarket Car Accessories - Brakes | Shocks | Springs | Intakes and More!
For the front use Integra Type R calipers with Mini Cooper rotors. For the rear use RSX Type S rear calipers and EP3 rotors.
I ordered my "kits" from ProParts on both previous occasions:
ProParts USA Integra Brake Kit Upgrade - ProParts USA - Low Price Performance Aftermarket Car Accessories - Brakes | Shocks | Springs | Intakes and More!
Hawk pads have a habit of eating rotors up, they are EXCELLENT pads for increasing stopping power.
Also, you do not need 6 piston fronts. Integra Type R front calipers plus Hawk HPS pads OUTPERFORM wilwood 4 piston oversize brake setups. It has to do with the necessary rotor size increase causing a large increase in rotating inertia. Basically it is exactly like bolting on bigger heavier rims
Going 6 piston is overkill. Higher number of pistons does NOT improve performance if the pad is not capable of dealing with it. if the pads are not up to the task, you can eat your way through the pads in a matter of months (too much friction)
I think you will love the Hawk pads! Might make you change your mind!
Also, you do not need 6 piston fronts. Integra Type R front calipers plus Hawk HPS pads OUTPERFORM wilwood 4 piston oversize brake setups. It has to do with the necessary rotor size increase causing a large increase in rotating inertia. Basically it is exactly like bolting on bigger heavier rims
Going 6 piston is overkill. Higher number of pistons does NOT improve performance if the pad is not capable of dealing with it. if the pads are not up to the task, you can eat your way through the pads in a matter of months (too much friction)
I think you will love the Hawk pads! Might make you change your mind!
Hi,
I am doing this mostly for looks

at first, I want to buy the 6 piston Brembo GT Turismo Kit from
Subaru BRZ 355mm package
but
I had decided that I want to use the
6 piston Brembo caliper from Porsche Cayenne (type 18z),
and used the 380mm Type 3 Brembo Rotor

because this is MUCH Cheaper

Here is what an 18z caliper look like (this is not mine, I had not bought it yet):
and this is what a Type 3 Brembo rotor look like:
if you see the early pages on this thread,
I already have very large diameter rear rotor,
this is mainly for looks,
although for sure the braking power will be much much much more then
the original

The reason I buy the EBC right now, is for temporary purpose,
first my OEM front pads run out,
second, I need stronger braking for temporary use to balance
the rear braking power that will come from Integra Type R (Red Nissin JDM) caliper.
I wish I had the money to complete the front brembo conversion now,
but
I need to concentrate on installing my JDM Fit RS rear axle with this rear Integra Type R conversion first since this RS rear axle had been collecting dust for more than year in my garage.
Last edited by BMW ALPINA; Dec 24, 2014 at 11:19 PM.



