The Replacement Steel Brake Pipe that was broken just arrived
few minutes ago (along with my JDM Rear View Mirror cover)...

Here are the pictures:



The white plastic pouch contain a plastic bracket for the Right Brake Pipe,
I don't need it now, but just in case I broke it later, so I ordered it anyway since it is cheap...


Here are the brake pipe just laid on top of the rear axle to make sure I order the correct part:







Still have to order more parts before I can install this rear axle,
which are:
1. Mugen Braided line set,
2. Honda Civic Si Caliper Seal repair kit since my current seal toast when I cure the caliper paint in the oven
3. Wilwood Brake Hat, Bolt, and Rotors (I found other rotor that is even better than Wilwood (read: at 12.19inches it is larger, lighter and looks fancier than the Wilwood one), but have to do more research before I am sure )
4. Spoon Rigid Collar to help the rear axle with less flex at the mounting POINT (where the axle meet/joint the chassis)
5. Honda replacement mounting bolt (that Honda advise to replace once you take out the rear axle/suspension/brake)
6. Making Machined Bracket for the Rear Caliper to accommodate Larger Rear Rotor (from 239mm to 12.19in rotor)
7. Probably doing custom the most rear brake line because the one from Mugen will not be long enough with larger rotor
8. Check whether 2013 Honda Civic Si Rear Parking brake cable will fit
because the standard JDM RS rear parking brake cable would not be long enough with the larger rotor, if not I will make a custom parking brake
9. Making Machined Hubcentric ring because the wilwood rotor is for Civic rear hub and it's size is too large for our Honda Fit hub diameter.
10. Buying all the special wrenches for brake line (flared crow foot one),
brake bleeding tools, low profile hydraulic jack and extra jack stand (yes, I haven't bought hydraulic jack yet... hahaha)...

hmmmm I think that is all I need,...

11. oh, I need to buy some plywood/mdf/wood panel and some dremel electric saw to make prototype bracket out of wood for the caliper, then measured them and then sent the napkin drawing to the machine shop for some CNC party

12. oh, I also need to buy high strength steel bolt and nut for the caliper and bracket mounting purposes...

the good news is I already have several machine shop contacting me from my post at other internet forum, and they all ready to make the caliper bracket/hubcentric ring too !

so please be patient guys, to do this right,...
it's going to take a while...

 

Anything worth doing, is worth taking the time to do right the first time!

 

Hi TPColgett,

if that larger rear rotor that I am doing research on fit well on my car,
I might have a real solution for your front braking needs.
(larger front brake and yet lighter front brake for you) !!!
even lighter than Wilwood's

on the course that you race, do you need to brake hard a lot?
(meaning generate lot of heat?)

oh by the way, this rotor is not that expensive
(meaning not like Brembo Type 3 expensive)
and you can buy directly from the manufacturer

 

VERY interesting!!!

We don't always need heavy braking, at least not with <120whp and short courses but I have only ever made it to one large "nationals" style course. That had at least 3 heavy braking zones, one of which was down hill!!! I also had no functioning ABS at that event so things were...interesting

I was looking at some 282mm x 25mm floating 2 piece rotors to get to something around 11pounds but OUCH on the $$$... So yes, lighter and Cheaper is a win win for me!

 

Wow 282mm huh... that is not in their catalog,...
there is diameter close to the 282mm (a bit larger) but it is not vented design...

hmmm... you might want to check them yourself,here is the website of that company:

The Brake Man - Home



The solution that I was thinking for you is to get the larger size rotor but with SOLID (non Vented) design and also in convoluted/scalloped shaped.
this will give you the lightest rotor and still ok if you don't need too much brake in the circuit. this rotor design is called "revolution"
here are the pictures:


if you want vented design, they also have some Scalloped shaped rotor
which are part of their "Cyclone line"

here are the pictures:



do you see how much weight they save/cut by using that convoluted/scalloped shaped ?

check their catalog, too bad it is still their 2010 catalog,
they are coming with 2013 catalog, hopefully that one had the shape and size you need...

for the hat, just buy the Wilwood hat cause they will fit each other as long as the bolt pattern are the same.

I have talk to them and the 8x7 wilwood hat bolt pattern will match
a revolution rotor scalloped shaped size 12.19in x .375in thickness that I need for my rear brake application...

imagine my rear brake will be large and yet so light weight compare to stock JDM RS rear disk brake rotor...

Your front brake could benefit too !

 

Oh WOW...

That's going to send me back to the rule book... There are specifics regarding disk void areas and or disk face sizing compared to stock...

BUT that is VERY interesting. It makes complete sense though, as I am familiar with this concept being used on high end sport bikes for the exact same idea, less weight. As you know, on bikes EVERY GRAM counts

 

Alpina for president. This is a very detailed and well thought out build.

Vendor for braided rear brake line? Stop by Goodridge in Torrance they will make them for you.

Those rotors you posted are very interesting...

 

THIS has my attention!!!

Part# 3-1019385D

REAR, MINI COOPER, 10.19"x .385", 8 ON 6.25" BC, DRILLED 385" THICK, 8 ON 6.25" BC, DRILLED

If they are like this though:


and made of cast aluminum.

I may have issues... Here is the rules section:

"Non-standard brake rotors may be used provided they are of equal or larger dimensions (diameter and thickness) and made of ferrous material (e.g., iron) ( ) . Thickness includes the individual plates of a vented rotor, as well as the overall dimension. The diameter for replacement rotors is measured at the minimum outside dimension. Aluminum rotor hats are allowed ( ). Cars originally equipped with solid (non-vented) rotors may utilize vented rotors. Cross-drilled and/or slotted brake rotors may be fitted provided all such voids are within the disc area and comprise no more than 10% of that area ( ). Brake calipers and mounting brackets may be replaced provided they bolt to the standard locations and the number of pistons is equal to or greater than standard. A functioning emergency brake of the same type, operation, and actuation as OE must be present. Drum brakes may be replaced with disc brakes of a diameter equal to or greater than the inside diameter of the standard drum. Such conversions must be bolted, not welded, to the axle/trailing arm/upright and must include an integral, redundant emergency brake. Changes to backing plates/dust shields/brake lines to accommodate these changes are permitted but may serve no other purpose."

Hmmmm...

 

I already had several email correspondent with them,
and they do warn me that using the revolution rotor (scalloped) shape for my rear disk brake will result in NOISE all the time (not just during braking)...

as I could imagine that scalloped shape must act like it is slapping against the air when it turn, and making the wind noise, but it also mean they get more exposed to cooling air thus help overcome their inherent less capability to absorb heat due to their less weight/mass...

this mean, I need to spend more money soon on buying those MLV (sound deadening) sheet... otherwise my car will be super noisy hahaha...

but for your race track application, this noise will not be a problem...

Also I want to give you some idea about the cost,
my wilwood hat is around $125 each with bolt it became $150 or $160 each,
then the revolution rotor for my application is around $200 to $230 per rotor (wilwood scalloped solid design is much cheaper, but I think thebrakeman rotor is better quality)...
but
if you want vented scalloped, it might cost more,
you just got to contact them directly....

so per side I think you will be looking for $400 maximum for your application (front rotor) of course this is outside making bracket/buying bracket to fit your caliper to your GD front suspension
but that is not too bad... so for both side front, I think $1000 budget should be enough for you...

the hat, just buy wilwood, cause thebrakeman hat I think is much more expensive... both of them are aluminum anyway...

by the way, it is very hard to get reply from wilwood, I had to "improvise" my email before I got reaply from wilwood...
thebrakeman on the other hand are very responsive to my email...

what is funny is,
both wilwood and thebrakeman office are located in Camarillo !!!

what do you think ?

 

Glad to hear they reply to Emails!

Since I had been looking at getting ad re drilling these: :: #1 Race Specialist in The World :: »

to put under a pair of these: Spoon Sports 4-Pot Twin Block Calipers EK9/DC2 Type R 45020-DCR-G00 FREE SHIPPING

Less than half the $ for something potentially even LIGHTER is VERY appealing!!!

 

Ok,
First,
I had not checked wilwood hat with 8x6.25in mounting PCD,
the only one I checked was 8x7in PCD
and the 8x7in PCD hat is great because it is for Honda,
which mean it have that 2 centering bolt on the rotor hat,
so you don't have to make hubcentric bolt...

in fact some of the 8x7in PCD hat from wilwood had the center bore
match to our Honda Fit 61mm (yes 61mm for rotor not wheel mounting)...
but the offset was not suitable for me since it required removal of the backing plate, and I don't want to remove my backing plate,but it
should suit your application since I am sure you don't mind removing backing plate,
infact you want higher offset rotor hat, so you don't need spacer for your front application...

now if you can avoid MINI hat because although they have same 4x100 pcd,
but their stud hole is larger and they might not have that 2 holes for centering screw so you surely need hubcentric ring for the rotor...
you see a bit more headache for using mini hat...

check the stud hole size to differentiate between Honda and Mini hat at wilwood website, you can easily start the search by clicking 4x100 pcd option there

regarding the rule books, I am having a headache right now,
seriously I really have headache because last night I stay until 5 am in the morning reading about brakes hahaha so now I need to take a nap first...
when I feel better, we should continue this discussion hehehe

hopefully by then you already find what you need and hope it will help you win more races too
maybe someday I can come to trackside to cheer for you...
it's been a while since I watch real racing on the circuit...
last time was my bike racing team day but that was like 10 years ago...

 

Hah I was up late too or I am sure I'd already have something priced out

I haven't gotten onto any real circuits yet, most stuff is in sport stadium parking lots

You can check out my Youtube Channel to see a some footage of my runs!
TPColgett - YouTube

 

ok, before I really have to take a nap (my forehead is really hurt now... need some aspirin fast hahaha) gee, I can still joke when I have this headache...
oh well...

ok Spoon...
I think it is better for you to buy the small 4 piston caliper from Brembo.
many used one on ebay...
I am pretty sure they will weight very similar to the spoon one...

actually the 4 piston caliper for the Integra Non Type R Brembo GT turismo kit should work well for you,
or I think some stock OEM Acura Brembo caliper (USDM Acura) which have similar 4 piston Brembo Front caliper will fit well for you... I forgot what car they came from though... it's black color caliper with Acura printed on them....
this will provide more clamping power than that spoon and you might be able to get it from junk yard and just replace the seals (buy them from Acura dealer)... this is the ultimate and cheap 4 piston caliper upgrade

the spoon one is way too expensive,
as I point out here, I can buy brand new Porsche (by Brembo) Cayenne front 6 piston caliper and still cheaper than that 4 piston small spoon...

probably because they bought in small quantity from Nissin that make the cost much higher and also Spoon need to make "decent" profit on it

but, I think your front stock caliper need to be replaced asap because it is too heavy and it is a sliding design too...

 

wow,
I just watch 2 of your youtube video,
and I notice that your car handle very FLAT !
Almost no body roll ! Very nice !
It also seemed you don't dive much when you brake,
again, very firm suspension doing great here !

also, now I understand why you don't need too powerful brake here,
so I think with this kind of circuit, you can have the front brake rotor
converted to the SOLID (NON VENTILATED) scallop rotor for the lightest possible weight, but then I think the rule book do not allow this huh?

ok, now I am going to read the rule that you post before...

 

ok, for the first rule, brake larger and thicker, this mean solid rotor is not allowed but you can always buy a scalloped vented rotor, which is just a bit larger than stock but will weight must less since it is a 2 piece with aluminum hat design and also the scalloped design save lots of weight too.

I think the drilled holes in the scalloped rotor is not more than 10% of the disk area, if there are holes in the mounting area, well that is part of the mounting design and this can be debate able (grey area) with the rule book

so I think a scalloped vented rotors might be able to pass the rules,
you just had find the right one and your car will be lighter then the competition.

oh, material made of ferrous material, well steel is also a ferrous material right, I mean most ingredient of steel alloy is iron... so I think this is ok.
Thebrakeman brakes rotor made from steel (alloy), only the aluminum is made from hat... so it should be ok.
but I think this mean carbon brakes not allowed

 

I figure that I need to make a CUSTOM rear brake line if I want to install larger rotor, so I need to understand the type of flaring/fitting. I also need this if in the future I want to install Larger Master Cylinder from older Honda model.

I try to ask on other forum late last night, and at the same time I try to find the answer, somehow I got lucky and found out the answer my self before any poster on that forum answer my question.

Ok so here are a diagram that explain the type of fitting in a very clear manner:



Now here is the fitting of the JDM RS rear brake pipe that I bought:










so it is clear that Honda now use the Bubble/ISO/DIN flare fitting type with Metric Thread of M10x1,

while in the past Honda use the Inverted 45degree/Double/SAE flare fitting type with Metric Thread of M10x1

for the Master Cylinder, Honda also had change to Bubble/ISO/DIN from Inverted/Double/SAE,

here is a comparison spec between our Honda Fit master cylinder:




and Acura NSX Master Cylinder with INV PORT fitting:



If you pay close attention the hole inside the NSX Master Cylinder Port,
you will see another circle inside it, that is for the INVERTED 45degree/SAE/Double fitting to seat properly.

The only thing I wasn't sure is since when/what year did Honda start using the ISO/DIN/Bubble flare...
My guess is somewhere in the early 2000's probably 2003 or 2004 new model...
(2005 S2K/ S2000 and NSX model still use the old INV type probably because S2000 and NSX had been around longer)

oh almost forget,
there is another type of fitting, the AN type (Army Navy = AN).
This one is a Single Flare 37degree type and this is the most common AFTERMARKET standard.
for our purpose we use the size -3AN (mostly for HOSE)

The Pipe diameter it self is the same for all type of fitting above which is 3/16"

 

Great info!

 

This brake DIY is a MASTERPIECE and deserves a sticky for sure. There is so much info in here its unbelievable.

 

Thanks for your kind words "Loudbang",
but personally I think this thread of mine do NOT deserve a sticky.

Because,
I don't think there will be much interest from reader to do a Rear Disk Brake conversion for GE,
let alone a full JDM rear axle conversion,...
so while this thread is fun but not much real world use for other people here,
and that is why this thread of mine do NOT deserve a sticky

I mean, if I am the moderator of this forum, I will NOT make a thread a sticky unless I am sure this thread is important to many people who want to do the same as what is done in that particular thread...

Don't forget, the GE model is going to be replace soon,...
that mean most enthusiast probably had move on from their GE which they bought in 2009, I think this forum is quiet because of this,
and this forum will be more alive when the new model arrive...

so who want to spent money on rear disk brake conversion on a car model that soon became obsolete?

OK,
Obviously I did,
but that is not the norm
and is only because this Honda Fit had something special for me

If possible, I plan to keep My Honda Fit forever and not going to sell it ever, again this is for some sentimental reason,
that is why I am have no hesitation in doing all of this modification

but most current buyer of Honda Fit GE,
is buying this car because Honda is currently giving a good deal on this car so they can still sell it (after several years in production) with replacement coming very very soon.

 

A little update:

The OEM RS Rear Brake Disk fresh out from the oven with the silver paint,
on top of the white primer paint.

I don't plan to use this rear brake disk though,
but this rear brake disk will help me when I need to do machining.

First, I can take this rear brake disk to the machine shop as their reference when I need to make a hubcentric ring for the rear wilwood hat,

Later, this OEM rear brake disk can again be used as reference when I need to Re Drill the Brembo Hat (front brake) from 5x100 (Subaru BR-Z pcd) to Honda Fit 4x100 pcd at the machine shop.
Also the Brembo Hat from Subaru BR-Z will have smaller center hub opening, and again I will use this OEM rear brake disk can be used as a reference in the diameter and "BEVELED" shape of the center bore hub opening so the machine shop can machine the Brembo Hat center bore hub shape exactly as this Rear brake disk without
me having to remove the current OEM front disk brake, so I can still use my car.

Only when I am ready to make a front caliper bracket that I need to remove the OEM front disk brake and put the Brembo Hat/Rotor and Brembo Caliper to make a temporary bracket from MDF/Plywood,
then use the MDF/Plywood as the reference for the machine shop to make
the rear bracket...

You know, wherever I asked, most vendor seemed to say it is very hard to make a Caliper bracket,
but I think it is NOT hard at all, I mean this is just basic measured and try method... my labor cost is free anyway hahaha

for example both Brembo and StopTech need to have at least 5 to 10 confirm order before they are willing to make a NEW Kit/Application for you... AP Racing is the same too,
I know because I had contact them,
most likely this is because their engineer hourly cost is high just to make one Kit...
but again my cost is free for me, all I need to do is make correct measurement and bring it to machine shop...

Oh yeah, I also received this 2 silicone grease from Permatex,
I need them because I will have to REBUILT my OEM RS rear caliper since I toast their seal when I put them in the oven while doing the Primer Paint (over 400 Faranheit)...

I had checked and the Parts number for OEM RS Rear Caliper Seal Kit is
the SAME as the 2001 CIVIC Si rear caliper seal kit !!!
all I need to do is to buy the Civic Si rear caliper seal kit from any US dealer and buy around $120 worth of special tools from Honda to rebuilt the caliper myself, which I think is about the same cost as if I let "Pro" rebuilt it for me... the bonus is I will keep the special tools

but rebuilding the rear caliper is still long way, the next step is to buy the Wilwood Hat and buy the Brakeman Rotor and start making the rear caliper bracket for the much larger 12.19inch rotor

3 days from now, the caliper will get it's turn into the oven for baking the yellow paint,
after that, I need to apply clear coat, wait another 7 days and bake them again...
so the caliper is still at least 2 weeks away from completed

Here are the pictures:

FRESH FROM THE OVEN with SILVER PAINT on top of the White Primer Paint





Silicone Grease is what recommended by Honda cause it is SAFE for rubber seal etc :