devmail's 2007 SSM GD3 build - The Grey Goose
#401
I was even going to try 185 45 15 for the slightly taller gearing but thought I should stick with at least 195 width. I have to find a good compromise for both low torque all motor runs and high torque nitrous runs...could end up being 2 different sets of slicks.
#402
Removed the passenger seat, it's harness, pass. sun visor, the muffler silencer plus the blankets that were in the car when I got weighed: 22.21lbs lost.
let's just say the muffler silencer is officially retired:
Can't wait to hear how loud this sucker is gonna be now! Garage is below the kids bedroom, so I wouldn't dare start it up...woke kids, angry wife, no thanks.
Also redirected some of the wiring harness that travels under the passenger seat to the rear floor boards. It declutters the front and messes up the back. 🤣 Can't just cut it as I need only one of the wires leading to the right rear ABS sensor. I am keeping ABS for now.
My usual contact for nitrous might pull through at a cheaper rate of he can find 1 more person to buy. Otherwise he can't get a bottle ordered. My only other option is R&D Performance in Truro which is an hour drive each way plus...it's $16/lbs! PLUS TAX....😑😶😱 I really want to explore it fully before I move on. Maybe I should buy my own mother bottle from now on, throw that in the budget for next summer, along with the truck rental. Indeedz.
New tires will be in Monday, got an appointment to get them mounted and balanced on Wednesday morning. Now the only other thing that might not pass tech is my 4 pt racing harness. I have my stock seat belt but both are locked up.
On a side note, I may be borrowing a GoPro for that day. 😎
Excited. 😁
let's just say the muffler silencer is officially retired:
Can't wait to hear how loud this sucker is gonna be now! Garage is below the kids bedroom, so I wouldn't dare start it up...woke kids, angry wife, no thanks.
Also redirected some of the wiring harness that travels under the passenger seat to the rear floor boards. It declutters the front and messes up the back. 🤣 Can't just cut it as I need only one of the wires leading to the right rear ABS sensor. I am keeping ABS for now.
My usual contact for nitrous might pull through at a cheaper rate of he can find 1 more person to buy. Otherwise he can't get a bottle ordered. My only other option is R&D Performance in Truro which is an hour drive each way plus...it's $16/lbs! PLUS TAX....😑😶😱 I really want to explore it fully before I move on. Maybe I should buy my own mother bottle from now on, throw that in the budget for next summer, along with the truck rental. Indeedz.
New tires will be in Monday, got an appointment to get them mounted and balanced on Wednesday morning. Now the only other thing that might not pass tech is my 4 pt racing harness. I have my stock seat belt but both are locked up.
On a side note, I may be borrowing a GoPro for that day. 😎
Excited. 😁
#404
K20 310 cc injectors and tires arrived. Also put the OEM seatbelt back in. A friend showed me how to unlock it. Track recommended OEM 3 point over the 4 point due to the danger of submarining in an accident. Looks like I'll have to up grade to a 5 or 6 point in the future once I get a roll bar.
#406
To add on to the above...
Track official was correct. With the exception of the Schroth ASM, 4 point harnesses can cause more harm than good in an accident. The problem is that, as your shoulders add pressure to the harness at the top, the bottom lap portion is pulled up higher on your torso. Good for holding you in place for spirited driving, but maybe not so good for safety in an accident. The Schroth ASM is the only exception to this rule that I'm aware of.
I think that 4 point harnesses cause a bit of a problem for NHRA tech officials. They are not SFI certified and are not technically legal by the rule book for vehicles that require harnesses. The flip side is that your car doesn't require a harness.
A friend of mine got into that loop hole with a bolt in roll bar. It didn't meet NHRA standards, but his car didn't require a roll bar at all. He had to remove the roll bar because, if it was in the car, it had to meet the rule book standards. Car was fine without it all together for rule purposes.
Track official was correct. With the exception of the Schroth ASM, 4 point harnesses can cause more harm than good in an accident. The problem is that, as your shoulders add pressure to the harness at the top, the bottom lap portion is pulled up higher on your torso. Good for holding you in place for spirited driving, but maybe not so good for safety in an accident. The Schroth ASM is the only exception to this rule that I'm aware of.
I think that 4 point harnesses cause a bit of a problem for NHRA tech officials. They are not SFI certified and are not technically legal by the rule book for vehicles that require harnesses. The flip side is that your car doesn't require a harness.
A friend of mine got into that loop hole with a bolt in roll bar. It didn't meet NHRA standards, but his car didn't require a roll bar at all. He had to remove the roll bar because, if it was in the car, it had to meet the rule book standards. Car was fine without it all together for rule purposes.
Last edited by GAFIT; 09-18-2018 at 10:05 AM.
#407
Exactly right guys. Thanks for the heads up, I knew about it but thought it might not matter in street class. I will invest in probably a Schroth clubman 6pt...when I require it. $450 CAD shipped is not bad.
#408
Yesterday I also dropped the nitrous bottle off to my usual filler. He didnt have enough buyers to purchase a big bottle but told me he could probably fill mine with leftovers from his bottles at home. Fingers crossed...
Tonight I think I will try installing the k20 injectors and Hondata base map to go with it. It claims better throttle response and a 7500 rpm redline, which may help at the track. I also want to take make a general nitrous tune with timing reduced on and past my nitrous activation point.
Tonight I think I will try installing the k20 injectors and Hondata base map to go with it. It claims better throttle response and a 7500 rpm redline, which may help at the track. I also want to take make a general nitrous tune with timing reduced on and past my nitrous activation point.
#409
Exciting!
I can't imagine having to get a mother (60 lb) nitrous bottle filled in Canada. That would be a chunk of change. I can understand why your filler looks for buyers first.
I have a set of 310's on the way to me as well from the FB person your suggested. Not sure if I'll put them straight in or if I'll get them cleaned and tested first.
I can't imagine having to get a mother (60 lb) nitrous bottle filled in Canada. That would be a chunk of change. I can understand why your filler looks for buyers first.
I have a set of 310's on the way to me as well from the FB person your suggested. Not sure if I'll put them straight in or if I'll get them cleaned and tested first.
#410
Nice one! I have a question for you: when I open the 310 cc injector calibration and go to the CALIBRATION, FUEL, and check Injector Size, it still says stock and current injectors are 185 cc. Does yours?
#411
It does. I don't know if it's a glitch or what, but I flashed it with that file and it then said it was 310cc after I looked back at the file to determine what was wrong. That was after I turned the car on and shut it back off as fast as I could. It was NOT happy. I then changed it to 185cc and reflashed. Car is on that now.
#412
OK, good to know...I thought that was a little strange. So I just installed the K20 injectors, everything is back in place except I couldn't get injector clips to line up. Let me know if you run into that same issue. I did install them in the head first, not the fuel rail...perhaps that's the problem. I made sure everything was seating well as i tightened down the fuel rail to the head so I just left the clips off for now. I will check for leaks tomorrow after I try flashing with the 310 cc file...too late to be starting up that loud car with the kids sleeping above the garage haha.
#413
Loaded the 310mcc injector tune with EGR and Secondary O2 sensor turned off. Started up with no issues and no leaks around the K20 injectors...and no CELs! 😎 Next step is to figure out reducing the timing on a secondary tune for nitrous. Bottle will be filled Thursday or Friday evening with any luck. Nothing like last minute work...
#414
Sweeeet!
Taken it for a drive yet? I'm curious to see how the driveability is with their tune.
I am NOT a tuner, but I would think you could got to the Ignition High section of the calibration and highlight all of the cells starting at your activation rpm and just use the minus button at top to remove like 3 or 4 degrees of timing.
As a side note, I'm having great success with Boostane in a different car. Stuff is legit and doesn't take much per tank to make a difference. Literally 2 oz per Fit sized tank would bump the octane by 3-4 points.
Taken it for a drive yet? I'm curious to see how the driveability is with their tune.
I am NOT a tuner, but I would think you could got to the Ignition High section of the calibration and highlight all of the cells starting at your activation rpm and just use the minus button at top to remove like 3 or 4 degrees of timing.
As a side note, I'm having great success with Boostane in a different car. Stuff is legit and doesn't take much per tank to make a difference. Literally 2 oz per Fit sized tank would bump the octane by 3-4 points.
#415
Haven't driven it yet and I think you are correct. I've seen people do similar things with Hondata in videos. Boostane sounds cool, I vaguely remember something about octane boosters and nitrous but I can't remember if it was good or bad...I'll have to search that.
might get a chance to drive it this evening, have plans tho so maybe not. Will let ya know.
might get a chance to drive it this evening, have plans tho so maybe not. Will let ya know.
#416
Most octane boosters are garbage. Boostane and Torco make legit stuff. The advantage of Boostane over Torco is that is stays suspended in the fuel better.
Octane and nitrous are a very good combo. With higher octane you don't have to reduce timing. I used to run a 125 shot at full timing with 100 octane race fuel. Used the same tune with or without nitrous. Just race fuel instead of 93 when I sprayed.
Some people will run a separate small tank to feed the nitrous system and run race gas in that tank.
Octane and nitrous are a very good combo. With higher octane you don't have to reduce timing. I used to run a 125 shot at full timing with 100 octane race fuel. Used the same tune with or without nitrous. Just race fuel instead of 93 when I sprayed.
Some people will run a separate small tank to feed the nitrous system and run race gas in that tank.
#418
Clock is ticking away toward your race day! Can't wait to hear the results and hopefully see a video!!!
#420
Removed muffler silencer
Nankang NS2 195 45 15 to simulate a final drive increase to 4.6ish. Tires don't look as far as I thought they would on a 5.5\" wide GE8 wheel. Next time I'm definitely going for a 205 50 15.
Changed spark plugs, cleaned air filter, fluids checked...still waiting for that nitrous fill.
K20 310 cc injectors installed and working...
Trying 3500 to 6700 RPM for nitrous activation. At 3500 RPM that will equal a kick of 132 ft-lbs. (88 up shot X 5252 / 3500 RPM). Will raise that point if too much wheel spin. Shift light activates at 6500 RPM, red line is 6900 RPM.
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