Integra Type-R front disc brake installation
Thank you. Now I only need to find out which brake rotors are the lightest.
I found the "GPRH036 F 282mm 23mm 100 4 +1.3mm 64.2mm" from Projekt Mu. I've asked my dealer to check the weight.
In addition I've asked Tarox. They can make a custom job that costs 698,- EUR. But they can't say something about the weight.
I will add all rotors and data to this list:
Hersteller für 282mm Bremsscheiben in 4x100 - Forum: Performance
I found the "GPRH036 F 282mm 23mm 100 4 +1.3mm 64.2mm" from Projekt Mu. I've asked my dealer to check the weight.
In addition I've asked Tarox. They can make a custom job that costs 698,- EUR. But they can't say something about the weight.
I will add all rotors and data to this list:
Hersteller für 282mm Bremsscheiben in 4x100 - Forum: Performance
I am very pleased with the StopTech AeroRotors http://store.zeckhausen.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=159_553_1550_1552&products_ id=4347 I got from here. Now just think about your weight question. How can you beat the weight of a disc if it has aluminum centers (hat section) and steel rotors? As long as the rotors are made of those same materials, they will be within a few ounces of each other. Your other choice to go to exotic materials…But, the real attractive feature with these rotors is that they are 2-mm wider than all the rest. That means that you will get more cooling air through these rotors than any other out there. This is the most important feature/aspect for fighting brake fade during repetitive hard braking – track time, solo events, tail of the dragon, etc.
In my brake setup, I’ve used Axxis UTX brake pads…man those are grippy, but I do NOT recommend them. They are grip at the expense of the rotors. One set of pads will ware out your rotors down to the slots in the rotors! All the other bikes and cars that I have ever had, I’ve been able to go through at least two sets of brake pads before having to replace the rotors. These UTXs will ware your rotors out in one set. The other problem with UTXs is the brake dust…impossible to keep or even think about keeping your wheels clean. If neglected, even for a short time, will cakes on and then very difficult to clean out. Now that I’m on my second set of rotors, I’ve changed to ceramic pads. I’ve kept the UTX pads on the rear discs (T1R conversion) and now I have much better brake balance (front to rear).
If you don’t use Honda made wheels, you will probably not need any wheel spacers. But check the design…they usually advertise that they will clear most large calipers. I also recommend not using the Honda Accessory wheels like I did.
Once you get yours put together, tell us which wheels you used and if they fit over your calipers…post your pictures here too, I’m sure we would all like to see your legs.
In my brake setup, I’ve used Axxis UTX brake pads…man those are grippy, but I do NOT recommend them. They are grip at the expense of the rotors. One set of pads will ware out your rotors down to the slots in the rotors! All the other bikes and cars that I have ever had, I’ve been able to go through at least two sets of brake pads before having to replace the rotors. These UTXs will ware your rotors out in one set. The other problem with UTXs is the brake dust…impossible to keep or even think about keeping your wheels clean. If neglected, even for a short time, will cakes on and then very difficult to clean out. Now that I’m on my second set of rotors, I’ve changed to ceramic pads. I’ve kept the UTX pads on the rear discs (T1R conversion) and now I have much better brake balance (front to rear).
If you don’t use Honda made wheels, you will probably not need any wheel spacers. But check the design…they usually advertise that they will clear most large calipers. I also recommend not using the Honda Accessory wheels like I did.
Once you get yours put together, tell us which wheels you used and if they fit over your calipers…post your pictures here too, I’m sure we would all like to see your legs.
> wheels
I've ordered in May (no joke) the Volk Racing CE28N in 15x6. After a long time the first dealer said they are discontinued. Now - my new dealer - found out that 15x6 is only produced on order and all other dealers asked for stocks only. So I've lost much time so far. Now I can choose:
- CE28N 15x6.5 on stock
- CE28N 15x6 three month delivery time
I think I'll stay with 15x6 as the season is over anyway.
> How can you beat the weight of a disc if it has
> aluminum centers (hat section) and steel rotors?
Ask Rays how they are able to realize such lightweight rims. Some use alloys and some not.
> more cooling air through these rotors
If you drill the rotors the effect is nearly the same with lower width. The main thing is that they don't crack. But manufacturers like Project Mu or Tarox are high-end, so I rely on their quality.
>post your pictures here too
I will.
Btw: It seems that Project Mu's rotors are discontinued
I've ordered in May (no joke) the Volk Racing CE28N in 15x6. After a long time the first dealer said they are discontinued. Now - my new dealer - found out that 15x6 is only produced on order and all other dealers asked for stocks only. So I've lost much time so far. Now I can choose:
- CE28N 15x6.5 on stock
- CE28N 15x6 three month delivery time
I think I'll stay with 15x6 as the season is over anyway.
> How can you beat the weight of a disc if it has
> aluminum centers (hat section) and steel rotors?
Ask Rays how they are able to realize such lightweight rims. Some use alloys and some not.
> more cooling air through these rotors
If you drill the rotors the effect is nearly the same with lower width. The main thing is that they don't crack. But manufacturers like Project Mu or Tarox are high-end, so I rely on their quality.
>post your pictures here too
I will.
Btw: It seems that Project Mu's rotors are discontinued
Here in America, a disc is part of the brake and not the wheel. I was referring to the disc brake only. The way I understand your post, you are referring to the wheel. I just want to clear this up.
The disc brake itself works like a centrifugal fan. All of the air goes through the disc radially…from center to outboard. There is no air flow to speak of through the lateral holes drilled through a disc brake. Those holes will only lighten the disc brake and under hard braking, be susceptible to cracking. Problem number two: the brakes need the mass to absorb the instantaneous braking energy. There is very little heat loss during braking. In the worst case, if the disc is so light that you don’t have enough mass to bring the car to a stop from speed, your brakes will fade and you will crash. The next worse case is that you have enough mass to bring the car to a stop, but the disc does not have enough time to cool down for the next stop. The brakes will fade and fail on the next attempt to stop the car. The brake discs get thickness variation and pulsating during braking when they are overheated. If you are that concerned with weight, you need to change the material of the discs to still have a safe braking system on your car. If you want to stay with metal, I would recommend beryllium rotors. For the ultimate in brake discs, carbon/carbon composites are the way to go…that is what F1 cars use. I’m to rich enough for either…are you? Sie sind, ich kann dein Freund sein?
The disc brake itself works like a centrifugal fan. All of the air goes through the disc radially…from center to outboard. There is no air flow to speak of through the lateral holes drilled through a disc brake. Those holes will only lighten the disc brake and under hard braking, be susceptible to cracking. Problem number two: the brakes need the mass to absorb the instantaneous braking energy. There is very little heat loss during braking. In the worst case, if the disc is so light that you don’t have enough mass to bring the car to a stop from speed, your brakes will fade and you will crash. The next worse case is that you have enough mass to bring the car to a stop, but the disc does not have enough time to cool down for the next stop. The brakes will fade and fail on the next attempt to stop the car. The brake discs get thickness variation and pulsating during braking when they are overheated. If you are that concerned with weight, you need to change the material of the discs to still have a safe braking system on your car.
Many theoretics that aren't important. We are not driving a F1 car and the little standard brakes work good without being wider. There is no reason for me to look for heat reduction. I'm driving mostly 160-180 km/h and the little brake is good enough so I don't think there will be problems because of 2mm thinner material. And because of cracking: I trust the manufacturer that he knows what he does. I don't want to start drilling holes by myself. It should be a final and tested rotor. Thats clear.
If you want to stay with metal, I would recommend beryllium rotors. For the ultimate in brake discs, carbon/carbon composites are the way to go…that is what F1 cars use.
Offizielle Website von MOV'IT® - Bremssysteme, brake systems: Ceramic
They start at 342mm.
> beryllium
And where to buy? Sorry, but I can't ask for something that is not available (in our size).
btw: brembo starts carbon/ceramic mass production in the next years. good chance for lower prices.
I've asked for that. f.e. movit brakes are carbon/ceramic, but they aren't available in such a small size:
Offizielle Website von MOV'IT® - Bremssysteme, brake systems: Ceramic
Offizielle Website von MOV'IT® - Bremssysteme, brake systems: Ceramic
Hopefully Brembo will be making them in our size.
Ok, I don't think that something like that is allowed here ^^
EDIT: Not allowed. Found something regarding Porsche. They used it in the seventies. Today it is against our laws
Last edited by mgutt; Sep 16, 2010 at 12:13 PM.
Price starts at 7.500,- EUR.
news & press release of 2009:
Brembo aims to mass produce carbon-ceramic brakes with new joint venture — Autoblog
Hopefully Brembo will be making them in our size.
Brembo aims to mass produce carbon-ceramic brakes with new joint venture — Autoblog
Same price ^^
Even they would be available in 282mm I wouldn't buy them. This price is really to high. I only wanted to show you that I'm collecting all possible options.
Even they would be available in 282mm I wouldn't buy them. This price is really to high. I only wanted to show you that I'm collecting all possible options.
Check out this thread for Brembo BBK for the Fit.
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...tml#post916234
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...tml#post916234
Nice, but to big for me. I want to go with 15 inches.
By the way. My order is final:
1x Spoon Twin Block Calipers 45020-DCR-G00
2x Spoon Rotor 45251-4H1014 (I test them and use them as master for a custom job (2-piece) made by an italien manufacturer. Of course I will balance them
)
1x Spoon Brake Pads 45022-EK9-00 (front)
1x Spoon Brake Pads 43022-EFA-000 (rear)
1x Spoon Throttle Body 16400-GD3-010
Next step will be the rear rotors. I will order them and use them as master for a custom job, too. I hope you are right because of 23mm width.
Do you hang me, if I powder coat the Spoon Calipers in another color? I think blue doesn't look good on a black car / bronze wheels. ^^
By the way. My order is final:
1x Spoon Twin Block Calipers 45020-DCR-G00
2x Spoon Rotor 45251-4H1014 (I test them and use them as master for a custom job (2-piece) made by an italien manufacturer. Of course I will balance them
)1x Spoon Brake Pads 45022-EK9-00 (front)
1x Spoon Brake Pads 43022-EFA-000 (rear)
1x Spoon Throttle Body 16400-GD3-010
Next step will be the rear rotors. I will order them and use them as master for a custom job, too. I hope you are right because of 23mm width.
Do you hang me, if I powder coat the Spoon Calipers in another color? I think blue doesn't look good on a black car / bronze wheels. ^^
The stock Acura Integra Type-R discs are 23-mm wide. StopTech makes them 25-mm wide. Both discs are 282-mm in diameter and both will fit the Spoon Caliper.
Post pictures of the install here. Include actual weights too.
Post pictures of the install here. Include actual weights too.
I just did the upgrade with the FastBrakes.com rotors. I ended up having the brackets milled 4mm on the mounting surfaces. This worked out great! The only issue I encountered was having to trim the cooling shields. They rub pretty bad, and bending them doesn't give enough clearance. No testing yet since I finished pretty late, but I'll break in the rotors tomorrow and post my results!



