Thanks man, great advise. So I get the feeling that the higher the performance the brake pads get, the noisier they get? Besides that fact, is there any other draw backs from using a higher brake pad for daily?

Does the fact that performance pads have to be heated up to be effective really diminish their use for daily purposes?

Also would I have to mod anything, such as my master cylinder to continuously run 5.1 brake fluid?

And lastly do recommend a certain brand of brake fluid from personal experience DSM?

 

First off, what track are you running?

Hawk HPS are fine for street, shouldn't be any noise or squeal, maybe a little more dusty, I never noticed beacuse when I was using them my wheels were bronze. They don't need to be heated, they're not race pads.

I wouldn't worry about DOT 5.1 for your first track day. I highly doubt you're going to boil your fluid. I'd just get some good DOT 4 if you really are planning on changing your fluid anyway (it's cheaper). If your fluid in there right now is fresh, just run it.

You have a Sport right? I wouldn't even worry about the Progress rear sway.

Do you have or did you get a decent helmet?

 

Depends on the pad really. For instance my ProjectMu HC+ have a range of 0~800c, they have fantastic bite right from cold and just get better and better the hotter they get. It's the only pad I use because I've just never had any problem with it on any car I've owned. The real detriment is the price, Japanese shite is just not cheap at all.

As Wanderer states, if you have a Sport, it already has a rear stabilizer. I have not at all felt the need for one, but I do have a handful of chassis braces front and mid-ship on the car. And the sussy installed is a straight race item not really for daily, but it sees daily duty. My car handles wonderfully and is pretty neutral overall. Take out your rear seats prior to the event, lose that 75lbs and it will give you a slight bit of tail-happiness. No reason not to take them out, even if on site, 4 bolts and just 10~15min tops.

The stainless lines would be something to definitely look into if you are going to really be beating on the car and whatever configuration you are running entails heavy braking at all. Saturday I am having my brake master cylinder replaced with the new J's/Seido-Ya master cylinder because the Fit's master cylinder really is not up to snuff when it comes to racing. I'm quite the heavy, late braking type and even with running 5.1 or 4, the pedal has become mushy late in the sessions due to the master cylinder overheating and not from air in the lines. 5.1 is compatible with both 3 and 4. DOT 5 is the one that is not compatible. So no need to worry about your master cylinder running 5.1.

The other thing really, is just seat time. Get a feel for the car first before you just start throwing parts at it. Every driver is different, what works for some will not work for others or not give the same feel of the pants behind the wheel. Alignment is a big factor here. I run like -2.5 camber up front and a slight bit of toe-out for a nice crisp turn-in feel. I would run a bit more camber, but for everyday use and playing around it is a nice compromise.

So just get out there and have a blast beating on the minuscule powered Fit. As low powered as they are, they are a very fun drive. Sunday I'll be out on track again with a ton of Fits and CR-Z. So looking forward to it.

 

Thanks for the replies guys, very informative.

I'm aware seat time is a huge factor, that's why I was only really thinking of doing brakes, if anything at all.

And yea, I just bought a helmet. I bought a HJC CL-16. It's dot and snell2010, plus its pretty cheap. This early in the game I didn't want to blow that much money on a helmet.

Thanks for the tips 555, coming from a GE guy who actually puts his car to work, I'll take your wisdom with appreciation. Maybe if your ass wasn't all the way in Japan I'd ask you for more reference on parts .

You too Wanderer. Thank you.

Another question. Which hawk HPS pads are compatible with the GE8?

Edit. Never mind googled it.

 

Here's to answer your question wanderer.

I'll be running the 2.5 course at brainerd here in MN.

Road Racing Overview

There's an event going on for 3 days at the raceway which includes, 1/4 mile drag, autoX, drift, road course/time attack, car show, and import sport bike drag. Of course I plan to keep attending other Hpde through out the summer as well.

MAP's Proving Grounds - Welcome

 

Looking at that course layout, I see some hard braking points at turns 3,4,6,12 and 13. Of course not until out on the actual track will it really be known, but I just would see myself moving up to the very last moment on those turns. The other turns look like they are relatively flat out or throttle modulation through. Out of turn 13 all the way into turn 3 should be flat out and would be fun indeed. It's too bad there are not more mini-circuits there. For instance on Sunday the course is just 1.2km (just under .75miles). Definitely BIR will see you at higher speed than I will achieve (maybe about 120~125km/h on the 250m straight). I would definitely do brakes before going there or you are going to experience fade in no time I foresee.

 

Are you guys running full course or the smaller course?

Either way, like 555 said, I see some pretty serious breaking points on there, i'd make sure your fluid if fresh and yeah, go ahead and get those pads, I wouldn't be suprised if the HPS fade anyway, but it'll be better than stock.

How much did that helmet run you Coco? I sold my SA2005 to buy a 2010 and am shopping. I wish I would have just kept my 05 since I probably won't be doing anything this season besides AutoX, but better than nothing.

 

We'll be running the 2.5 course, so its the smaller one. The longer course runs right along the drag strip, and it's going to be in use.

Got my helmet for about $120-130. I also bought a silver face plate too so I forgot how much the helmet alone was exactly. It was around there though.

 

Oh, that's a motorcycle helmet (Snell M rated), will they let you run that on track there? I was wondering why a 2010 full face was so cheap

 

Lol, yea it's a motorcycle helmet. And yes they'll let me use it.

 

Haha that's good, some of the events out here will let you use them as well, but i've run into too many that don't.

I think my first HPDE I borrowed my friend's motorcycle helmet... I used one for auto-x too. they're SO heavy compared to auto ones, hurt my neck after a while LOL. They are cheap tho and good in a pinch.

If you end up driving and loving it, I highly recommend picking up an SA, they're much smaller, lighter, comfortable. You can get a Pyrotect openface for like $120 (SA2005) or about $180 (SA2010). If they let you run motorcycle helmets, they will probably let you run SA2000 or newer, and you can get an SA2000 dirt cheap.

 

Kudos! Thanks for the tips.

 

Alright, another question I've been wondering about. What engine oil or more specifically what weight do you guys use? I'm using 0w20 right now, but I'm sure that's going to have to change.

I was thinking 5w30 or at the very least back to 5w20.

 

I am interested in hearing other's experiences with this myself.

I would say 5w30 but I have no data with the car to back up that decision other than "it makes sense in my mind".

I would not use 20 weight. Then again, I only say that because my mind tells me it's not a good idea

 

I would suggest a 30 or 40 hot weight.

 

Love this thread!

 

5w30 it is then?

 

That would suffice, pick something with high ZDDP/Moly content.

 

You have a specific brand in mind DSM?

 

I run a mix of 0W-20 and 0W-30 myself daily, 2 quarts of each. Haven't had any issues, oil temps after about 12~15 min of constant hard running sit at about 110~115c. I have run Amsoil race fluid 5W-30 straight a few sessions, currently out of it, but do have a bunch of the 0W-20 and 0W-30. If dead of summer, I will probably go with a mix of 0W-30 and 5W-40 when attending any event.

I do replace the engine fluid and now tranny too since the diff has been installed after an event.