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I have yet to enter my receipts into fuelly, but on the surface the oem mpg numbers will show 36-38 per tank. prior to the dip, I would usually get 38-40 per tank
OIL CATCH CAN UPDATE:
08/04/2018
32453 miles odometer = Installed Rick Approved "Catch Can"
08/21/2018
33281 miles on odometer = about 7.5 ML of oil caught, after 828 miles/17 days worth of driving.
Minor mod I forgot to mention, after the rear sway I threw on a KART BOY hard urethane exhaust hanger. This was a left over from my Subaru WRX. It almost feels as if, acceleration feels a bit smoother now with things more tight/firm in the rear. Maybe its my imagination
Also, lowered the rears a tad. And perhaps, lowered the fronts a little too much. At this point, debating on lowering the rears more, to match the fronts. OR, raising up the fronts to match the rears. I'll prob flip a coin
ECF: any advice for rolling those fenders? Going to throw on the hypergrams tonight and see if I have room. If not, off to Walmart to buy a bat LOL. Do you start in the middle? Are you just no-shit manipulating the fender with some leverage against the tire? Cheers, d
if you can, buy or rent a real fender roller. also, it was advised to use heat to minimize the possibility of cracking the paint
since my car was already in bad shape, I didnt care for the heat and just went to town. I started in the middle, and worked my way left, and then back to the middle, and worked my way right. and I did indeed use the tires as leverage. just go slow and dont get too greedy on the pull. it was best (imo) to do a bunch of tiny gentle pulls, then one gigantic/aggressive pull
one more thing to note. the "pull" was a 2 step process.
part 1 = push upward with the bat, to fold the metal from its present horizontal position, and bend it upward and get it flat/vertical
part 2 = PULL that sucker and give yourself some room in those fenders
illustration of the "horizontal" metal:
and here's the aftermath, the metal is now folded upward/vertical:
Last edited by evilchargerfan; Aug 21, 2018 at 07:15 PM.
Also, lowered the rears a tad. And perhaps, lowered the fronts a little too much. At this point, debating on lowering the rears more, to match the fronts. OR, raising up the fronts to match the rears. I'll prob flip a coin
i vote down in the rear!
i had a similar experience with my coilovers. i kept see-sawing it.... now im back to fully dumped, front and rear lol
how are you liking the rigid collars? i was considering them recently but felt they wouldnt make much of an impact.
on a side note to everyone rolling their fenders...always roll with caution towards the rear of the fender where it meets the bumper. a majority of the rolling probably should take place from the 12 oclock position to the 3 oclock position (if looking at passenger side), and taper towards the rear, since the rear beam starts to tuck inward and forward on compression. i noticed this too late on the rear of my scion xa on the first side i rolled, and was left with an awkward misaligned fender / bumper line. the fender will pull, but be forced in place at the edge where it meets the bumper. i also learned on my first fender, if it is truly horizontal, bang it upward into a 45 degree with a rubber or plastic mallet first (the GE is already at this 45degree thankfully), as to not cause a lip that will protrude along the entire fender edge. then proceed with the bat or fender roller. lastly, finish up with some more rubber or plastic mallet finessing to make a tight roll.
for my rears, the springs are on the "lowest" setting. I'm scared to shorten the length of the shock anymore, in the name of keeping the car from becoming even more bouncy. who knows, I may just say "screw it" and go lower back there
the rigid collars are friggin awesome. the car feels composed, less sloppy, etc etc. just nothing but positive changes. HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend, everyone does this mod. I'll post some install pics soon.
I hope everyone takes a moment and look at the following:
Very very pleased. I wanted to add the rigid collars specifically to be able to handle certain types of roads more effectively and reduce some of the harshness in the feedback and they have done exactly that. They also act as insurance that the subframes will remain precisely in place. Not necessarily a major concern, but it seems there are plenty of instances where people's subframe bolts were loose and may have allowed for more play than desirable. This is a relatively expensive modification, with the cost of the collars themselves, the cost of the install (need the proper equipment to drop the subframes), and a fresh alignment. Money very well spent in my opinion though. Anything that increases driving feel at all is worth it in my book, and this is quite an improvement. Of course I will be testing these at the track as well (I will be at Laguna in early September) but honestly a track test isn't required to feel the difference. But increased driving feel = increased confidence in the car which usually = faster lap times
Last edited by evilchargerfan; Aug 23, 2018 at 06:15 PM.
on a side note to everyone rolling their fenders...
This was very good advice, wish I saw it before I just went to town, LOL. Also, baseball bat did not fit to begin with. So... Maglite for the win. This made short work out of the lip and enabled me to roll a few times and finally get the bat in there. Took four go's before it stopped rubbing. And doesn't look like complete shite. Reference my build page in the 3G section for pics.
My buddy and I were able to tackle this install relatively easily. We didnt have a lift or much fancy equipment, but still able to finish in under 2 hours.
Rear collars were insane simple:
-jack up the rear end
-remove wheels
-before removing bolt, support with a jack
-unbolt bolt in question, slap on collar, and re tighten.
to be continued ...
Last edited by evilchargerfan; Aug 23, 2018 at 06:01 PM.
Fronts were not as simple as the rears, but not too tough:
-Jack up the front end
-Remove wheels
-Loosen all 4 bolts to allow some slack/movement of the subframe
-Install FRONT collars, top one first, then bottom one onto bolt. Insert bolt and hand tighten
-Install REAR collars next. Exactly as you did the FRONT collars. May need to remove a nearby bracket and bolt if more clearance is needed
-Tighten it all down with your impact gun, and marvel at your awesome ride
Using this graphic, we'll call position 3 "FRONT" and position 2 "REAR"
For those who own a lift and have a means to support the sub frame, my guess is the install is easy beyond easy. My install was on a driveway, we had to do 1 side at a time. That said, we did have to use a big friggin Pry Bar in order to create a gap to insert the upper collars:
FRONTS pry angle:
REARS pry angle:
Here is the hardware for the FRONTS and how the finished product should look:
Here is the hardware for the REARS and how the finished product should look:
Again, HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. The diff in feel these little collars make is night and day!
These collars can be bought on ebay, and other places. google is your friend folks. There are also other brands out there like Spoon, Magic Collar, etc
Last edited by evilchargerfan; Aug 23, 2018 at 06:34 PM.
This looks nice... How about the full kit with upgraded pads, rotors, calipers, and hardware @ $300, hella better than $700+. I’d bet that $300 kit is all you’d ever need in the way of stopping the Fit, and you get the nice red powdercoated calipers so that’s covered! And hey, you can put some custom lettering on em if you need to have ‘branding’... STOPPY’s ? SLOWMO 2.0?
Doesn't the Honda Fit & CR-Z share the same subframe? Because the Honda Fit Rigid Collars on eBay are $100 more than the CR-Z ones. I can only seem to find Magic Collar & SPOON making them for the Fit GE
This looks nice... How about the full kit with upgraded pads, rotors, calipers, and hardware @ $300, hella better than $700+. I’d bet that $300 kit is all you’d ever need in the way of stopping the Fit, and you get the nice red powdercoated calipers so that’s covered! And hey, you can put some custom lettering on em if you need to have ‘branding’... STOPPY’s ? SLOWMO 2.0?
was eying that $300 setup. that and the integra type r setup are my 2 front runners. I just need to hurry up and abuse my brakes to make this purchase happen sooner
Originally Posted by BeyondAddiction
Doesn't the Honda Fit & CR-Z share the same subframe? Because the Honda Fit Rigid Collars on eBay are $100 more than the CR-Z ones. I can only seem to find Magic Collar & SPOON making them for the Fit GE
not 100%, but I wouldnt be shocked if they are all the same. I'm pretty sure those "magic" ones are almost as good as the spoons and much cheaper
I took off the ebay Mugen replica visors, new visors went on over the weekend. The new ones are more plain and simple looking. At this point, unsure if I like it or not =\
Brand = Manzo (aka Megan)
Last edited by evilchargerfan; Aug 27, 2018 at 04:06 PM.
also installed some ricer skirt extension thingee's as well
I wanted the rear bumper to have something, to match the side skirt add on's. I wasnt able to find anything that came close. After seeing some WRX guy's rear setups as inspiration, I went in that direction
I attempted to go for this look, the sides of it at least/minus the center diffuser:
Last edited by evilchargerfan; Aug 27, 2018 at 04:17 PM.
the mugen rep visors are off ebay, less than $30. you're honestly better off waiting for a 20% off coupon and ordering new, as shipping from ca to dc would not be worth it
going to tokyo for the next 2 ish weeks, dont miss me too much folks. I wont be posting much (if at all) while out there, but I promise you guys are all totally in my thoughts.
also taking this chance to remove my ktuner, as my little bro has been dying to test it out on his 10th gen 1.5T civic. I gotta say, the car really drives like poop in stock form, so much lack of power and hesitation when flooring it =\
