You don't say. I'm pretty sure I mentioned it in the end of my initial post of Mechwarrior2.

 

Dang thats a lot of crap. congrats if/when you get it


lol you used tiny font! i didnt see it!!

 

Hi! My name is.. (what?) My name is.. (who?)
My name is...XD

 

Hey everyone, should I get an SRI for my Mazda? Do you think that could screw up my warranty and give me problems (like with the CEL)?

 

Charlie. Let me ask you this.

Is the car auto?

 

The thing with aftermarket parts, a dealer cannot void a vehicle's warranty just for the sake of having it. The part would have to cause the vehicle to malfunction in order for the repair to not be covered under warranty. Events like this are covered under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. In the case of a Short Ram Intake, most places don't mind them provided that they do have the appropriate connections for the sensors and whatnot that you'll be transferring from your stock/factory air box.

In addition to that, do research on the type of filter you'll be putting on/comes with the intake. Filters such as K&Ns actually allow more dirt into the engine to do having larger pours in the material as well as must be oiled. In some cases the oil can come off of the filter and onto sensors such as the Mass Air Flow sensor, which can affect readings and can throw trouble codes. There are dryflow air filters out there which do not need to be oiled prior to installation and shouldn't affect any sensors in the intake.

 

Yes.

And I have heard of the Act, so I was thinking of taking it to the dealership and talking to them about it. The product I want is a Corksport, which from what I hear is the best, and gives no problems, but I want to be 110% sure if something does happen I am covered.

I really hope that my dad will let me even do the mod.

 

It's hotter than a 2 dollar pistol outside... I need more beer and a bigger shop fan Getting old really sucks.

 

Charlie I wouldn't bother. The intake won't do much other than make some noise. Throw in a decent high flow filter (if anything), and just leave it stock.

<- That's what I'd do

I understand you want to do something, but sometimes its just not worth it.

 

Cody is right Charlie... You would have a little better acceleration in the lower gears at higher RPM but at a sacrifice in power at lower RPM... Automatics are geared higher than the manual equipped cars so it would drive you crazy waiting for the revs to climb enough to feel it.... Something like a K&N or another type of filter like Hootie described that will replace the stock filter element in the stock filter housing is going to work better for you across the power band and not hurt the low end power output.

 

Yeah I understand. If I were to find one, maybe used for under $100 I would do it, but for $180 I don't think it is worth it either, even though I would love the noise upgrade since my Mazda is so damn quiet. If anything I might just do it later when I start to work steadily, but for now I guess it would just be smarter to get the filter.

Do you guys recommend any particular high flow air filters that would maybe help me out? And how much would they cost?

 

K&N are like $50.

Why not just get a muffler? I love me a nice Magnaflow

 

I did a brief look on TireRack.com (they list some parts other than wheels and tires). I'm not sure what year your 3 is but when I keyed in 2009 Mazda 3 Touring an Airaid filter showed up. According to the description its a drop in, reusable filter (like K&Ns) that does not require oiling (unlike K&N) and costs just over 50 bucks.

 

I prefer an intake because it's easier to install/uninstall and usually gives a better sound.

I actually have a 2011 Mazda3 Sport (I think) and when I checked nothing came up. I guess I will just wait to see what I do. Thanks for helping me guys.

And finally I got tints. It looks so much better and now I can finally keep cool in the bajillion degree weather.

 

Hmm, did a little bit of researching and from what I've been noticing so far is that your 2011 Mazda 3 shares the same drop in filter (for the factory air box) as the 2004 to 2010 model years. The part number is LF50-13-Z40-9U for the OEM air filter so you can cross reference that if you'd like to make sure if a different drop in filter (like K&N, Spectre, etc.) from a different model year would work on your 2011 with the stock air box.

As for an actual intake itself (be it cold air or short ram) it seems like there aren't too many to choose from. Just K&N's CAI, AEM's CAI (M/T only), Injen's CAI (2.3L only, unknown if transmission specific) and maybe a Fujita intake which may be developed for the 2011 from what I've seen on a Mazda 3 specific forum.

 

Hmmm that bit of information might come in handy. The intake I was looking at was a Corksport one, and I've heard of plenty of good things about the intake and Corksport.

But, I asked my dad and he said no, that he does not want to risk voiding the warranty. So either
A) I ask the dealership service people if it would in fact void it (and get that shit in writing lol) or
B) just put a really good drop in filter.

I really hope A works.

 

Woo, what a strange first day of work. Almost arrived late for the first day due to over sleeping and was not expecting the job to be so fast paced. Tomorrow will be better though.

If you talk to a Mazda service adviser most likely they'll be bound by contract to endorse OEM Mazda parts and accessories. I think (just my opinion, you can do otherwise) you'd be better off asking one of the service techs at your dealer since they are the ones who would have to perform the service on your car, diagnose the vehicle for any faults that occur (and repair), as well as ultimately be the deciding factor in whether or not your warranty will be voided or valued.

The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act that I linked in my previous post basically states that if you have an aftermarket part on your vehicle, your warranty will not be voided just that said part. Only if that part is proven to cause the issue, the repair will not be covered under warranty.

So for example...

If you were to exchange your catalysis converter for a test pipe (a straight pipe that eliminates the cat. converter) and your car began throwing trouble codes because of that test pipe, the warranty will voided for that repair.

Now, if you were to swap out your stock brake pads for some Hawks pads and your lower control arm randomly falls off (far fetched but couldn't think of a good, clear cut example ). Then your warranty should still be valued since the pads has nothing to do with the lower control arm at all.

 

Alright, car shopping is the worst thing in the world.

The owner of the EP3 I intended on buying tried to waste my time, thus I'm not bothering. And now there is nothing worth looking at.

I may continue saving until pricing for the FR-S is released and see if I can pull that off.

 

Just placed a deposit on an NHBP 2008 Base.

SUP.

 

-1 for TPMS but +2 for GD3!