Some people will never get the reasoning. Fake wheels suck.

 

Well, not sure why they suck, but if they perform better than the non-fake ones, and you have to have that shape of wheel, then I guess it's worth it. There's no arguing that these "non-fake" wheels are usually of high quality, depending on the brand.

That doesn't mean reps suck. There are horror stories out there for every wheel, suspension component, welded product, painted surface thingy, fitment-needed stuff, blow/suck device, and electronic gizmo in the whole freaking aftermarket.

 

WHAT KNOCKOFFS PERFORM BETTER THAN THEIR REAL COUNTERPARTS?

If you say ugh Rota Torques are lighter than Work CR Kai's....Obviously the CR Kai's are beefy to make up for their cast origins

 

If you read my post carefully, you'll see that I'm kind of implying that they don't.

edit: my wording may have been a little confusing in that post.

 

Saying that wheels that are similar in appearance to a popular top of the line wheel that is fit to put on a $50,000+ car sucks and to hate on and belittle people that use them on their little 1500cc station wagons is just plain chicken shit.... I have Taiwan made wheels on my car now and they are fine up to speeds that are faster than any Fit without a Hondata reflash or a K engine in it is ever going reach and I don't even have concentric rings on them plus they are missing some wheel weights. They are 1 inch larger in width and diameter than the stock alloys and are still noticeably lighter. That is an improvement in rotating mass and unsprung weight and will handle a wider tire.... I do have a more costly set of wheels that are much lighter but I paid 2 1/2 or 3 times more for them and the cheapies get more complements for the way they look. If the lookalike wheels are not being sold as being the real thing and the people that are buying them are more than likely not in a position of being able to afford or willing to spend what the pricier wheels cost to put them on a Fit, please explain how that hurts anyone... If I spent $ 200.00 for a really good American made pocket knife and Joe Shit The Rag Man spends $20.00 bucks for one that closely resembles it, what would I gain by sounding off in a knife forum and putting what he bought or him, down.. If I was just paying for the image of being fashionable instead of quality I guess I would have reason to be as angry and hostile.... If you are paying for quality and you are confident that you got what you paid for why would you be angry about a person paying less for less quality... It is beyond rational reasoning to put extremely expensive wheels on an inexpensive car or put jewelry and lipstick on a pig and think you have anything different from what you started out with.

 

^well played sir. I concur.

 

Some of you are missing the point, it's not about money. Has absolutely nothing to do with money. Eventually I'm going to buy some konig heliums and when you all start your little bitch fest, I'll tell you to suck a dick. I think some of you are losing touch with the concept of performance to value.

 

And when you bend them.

I will:
LOL
LOL Some more
LOL again
Say I told you so
LOL again

 

LoL this thread has turned into a FAKE wheels thread now.

To all you guys buying imitation wheels, I don't mind you buying replicas of discontinued legendary wheels, i.e Mugens, Gabs, or really exspensive wheels that are $500+ per wheel. But there are some guys out there that buys replicas of Enkei's or Work CR Kai (Torque) is these wheels aren't cheap enough. Like I said before, "if you have to save another month... Do IT!" It's worth it in quality, you'll sleep better, have more confidence showing off your car, not embrassed when people look at your wheels at meets or forums.

Just my opinion, but it always comes down to... it's your car, do what you like not what others think.

 

Don't be jelly because my tolerance for risk is higher than yours. Besides, wheels are low on my priority list due to extremely low performance to value, knockoff or not. You inflate the value of these overpriced rims to yourself because they allow you to belong to an exclusive group of ricers. Elite ricers who are able to look down on other ricers who don't have enough money to conform to the most recent wheel trends. That is how you justify the cost to yourself, because not only do you get the small performance gain but you also get the 'street cred' you crave and that has value to you. However I belong to neither group and your 'street cred' is shit to me.

The simple reality is that most people's mechanical abilities are so limited that their arguments are crude. However, as Americans we are brought up to obsess over brand image. Brand image is a very easy concept for the average joe to understand because it is so prevelant in all the other facets of his life. Ultimately that's all these knock-off vs NameBrand wheel arguments amount to and why so many people participate in it. They already understand the concept of brand image and aren't forced to argue in confusing mechanical or technical terms.

In understanding that I do not care about your bizzare value system when it comes to automobile modification, I am equally prepared for you not to accept my value system.

 

Also, slowbros, why don't you tell me exactly what your value system is to you when it come to mods. SO far the only thing I know is that the better the name on the product and the more money it costs, the better it is to you. Also, you seem to like those shiny show cars. This is just a hunch, But do you also shop at American Eagle and Abercrombie?

 

I was contemplating making a thread for this, but it works here as well. Next to nobody knows how to use the fucking search feature on this forum so it doesn't matter anyways...

This is the biggest list of wheel weights I have yet found, it is a button on the upper left side of the screen. Open or save the Excel (.xls) file. It is pretty comprehensive:

WheelWeights.net - Database of Wheel Weights

 

Thank you for this, I've been trying to find something like this.

 

What is a fake wheel??? If it's round fits on an axle and turns or rolls it's a wheel. Pretty basic though it hasn't been in use all that long in the Americas.

 

Don't be a dumbass.

Had that for a long time

My value system?

I want my car to FEEL good. I don't want to be waiting for a turbo to spool I want immediate throttle response (NA > FI), I want neutral handling with as much info through the steering wheel as possible, I want the car to look great, I want the seats to put me exactly in the position that feels best.

Basically. I will pay however it will cost to get those things I want. I buy:
The best wheels.
The best suspension.
The best exhaust.

Once I'm out of college I'm building an NA K24/20 or B18C but right now I'm doing the things that best complement a daily driver with the occasional twisty road and (hopefully this summer) a rare track day

 

He means he is going to buy parts with the highest suggested retail price... He never pays retail and will have that to either boast of or not depending on who it is he is trying to impress.

 

You don't know a goddamn thing about FI then.

Lyon sees full spool at 3k even in first gear, he has boost before the throttle plate is all the way open FFS

My 59mm turbo will spool 10-12 psi in first gear as well. I have full song (currently only 28psi on pump) coming on before 4k in 2nd gear

If I want all I need to do is brake-boost or kick the clutch in, bounce off the 2-step once or twice and light up my anti-lag system...

If I had the traction I could leave the line at >30psi on a 65lb/min turbo, and then keep it up between gears with NLTS.

You realize that outside of boost you can still tune for MBT timing? It is just like a NA tune, but then when you get above 100kPa, you tune for boost.

Sometimes you should consider leaving your foot in your mouth, rather than removing it just to find it right back in there again.

And random kid on the internet talking about having "Best wheels, best suspension, best exhaust?"

Sounds like rice to me! Why do you need an exhaust if you are not going to do anything else? except to annoy your neighbors and other motorists? You will lost torque at the low and mid range by decreasing back pressure, but leaving the intake restricted..

 

Best exhaust as in:
I can still use it when I have the built engine. Also, it sounds great

Best suspension as in:
You'll never have suspension half as good as what I am sitting next to right now

Best wheels as in:
Light, strong, good looking

Lyon's turbo spools at 3k rpm. it spools early because its a tiny turbo.

Plus turbo's sound gay. I want my car to thrill all my senses which NA does, and FI doesn't

 

Considering I had a Moton external reservoir set on the 2G I sold last spring, you are full of shit.

Turbos probably sound pretty gay when you are so far behind all you can see is tail lights

I have several turbos for Lyon to choose from, and the nice part about a smaller frame turbo is the torque from the rapid spool.

Torque you won't have on an NA honda. Horsepower is derived from torque btw.. and when people think throttle response, they are thinking about the torque that gets them moving when they put their foot down. Enjoy waiting till 5-6k to enter your power band.

So first you complain about lag, now your saying the turbo is too small? Again, you might hurt yourself hustling those goalposts around.. lol

 

You had motons for driving in a straight line? seems like a waste

For what I want from the car I don't need to torque at 1500 rpm I want it up in the rev range....