What did you do to the GD Fit today?
Are those mounts for an auto or manual?
The kybs are okay as long as you dont have alot of weight in the car. Im just over a year running on kyb excelG shocks and h&r springs and the rear is starting to get bouncy and I will be replacing them in the rear at least in the summer.
The kybs are okay as long as you dont have alot of weight in the car. Im just over a year running on kyb excelG shocks and h&r springs and the rear is starting to get bouncy and I will be replacing them in the rear at least in the summer.
Do yourself a favor now and sand down the urethane on the mount on the right in the pictures. It is supposed to be flush with the steel insert. It will save you serious headache when it comes to install. I took an orbital sander to get it flush evenly.
Bought a BPM,5 SPD, GD3 last weekend ( the great eggplant ). Have to get use to the 5 spd. MzFiT is A/T , . But what a cool set of book ends they make 
When the weather breaks I'll have a Honda car show in my backyard. All are welcome 23322. Bring the family, a side dish, and good stories of ur Fit. 616 Rutherford Dr.
12/13/15
10-2pm.

When the weather breaks I'll have a Honda car show in my backyard. All are welcome 23322. Bring the family, a side dish, and good stories of ur Fit. 616 Rutherford Dr.
12/13/15
10-2pm.
Last edited by Perrenoud Fit; Dec 9, 2015 at 09:24 PM.
Also, don't expect them to just drop in. Or at least that was the word on the street when reading reviews of the Innovative mounts here. The place that installed mine for me said that the installer learned three new curse words when working on my car. And I think they had to source some bolts/nuts that would actually fit (no pun intended).
DWils makes a great point I completely forgot about.
You will need new bolts for the passenger side engine mount.
If you are installing these yourself, jack the car up, drop the lower transmission mount, tilt the engine as far forward as you can, and install the back engine mount first. That was the most difficult mount have have ever installed. Using a crows foot attached to a swivel socket was the only way to get in there.
As just a hint, I removed the one stud in the stock passenger's side engine mount and used a nut for the bottom part so that the two pointed ends of the studs stick up. (this will make more sense when you get it apart.)
At the time I was able to locate the bolts I needed from home depot.
You will need new bolts for the passenger side engine mount.
If you are installing these yourself, jack the car up, drop the lower transmission mount, tilt the engine as far forward as you can, and install the back engine mount first. That was the most difficult mount have have ever installed. Using a crows foot attached to a swivel socket was the only way to get in there.
As just a hint, I removed the one stud in the stock passenger's side engine mount and used a nut for the bottom part so that the two pointed ends of the studs stick up. (this will make more sense when you get it apart.)
At the time I was able to locate the bolts I needed from home depot.
Thanks for the clarification. I already have the damper, just wondering if it's still worth investing on the mount kit.
I bought a Fumoto valve last week and it arrived when I was in New Orleans over the weekend. I came home Saturday and waited until Monday morning to change the oil and filter in the Fit and install the valve. Of course, my oil pan was full from the last oil change a few months ago when Previc93 installed his turbo for me. So I had to go dump old oil so I could fill it up with new old oil. From pulling out all the necessary tools to putting them all away took about 80 minutes. It probably would have gone faster but it was the first time I have personally changed the oil in the Fit, though I've changed my motorcycle's oil for the last 13 years. Then I had to install the valve and torque it down tight enough to not be at the wrong angle. I got everything swapped out, the Fit filled with oil, let it run for a few minutes, checked the dipstick, added more oil, lowered it, put everything away, then reset the Maintenance Minder which had dropped to 5%.
Now my question is do I reset the Maintenance Minder every time I change the oil at ~3000miles, or do I change the oil every ~3000miles and deal with whatever maintenance the Maintenance Minder tells me to do l, then reset it?
Now my question is do I reset the Maintenance Minder every time I change the oil at ~3000miles, or do I change the oil every ~3000miles and deal with whatever maintenance the Maintenance Minder tells me to do l, then reset it?
Now I can't remember if I got the red or the black. Either way, yes, the dashboard rattles a ton. My driver's door panel started rattling recently too. Not all the time, but enough to piss me off. Jamming an elbow into it seems to help.
Don't buy them if you don't want a crazy rattling vibrating car. It gets old. I loved it in my Integra because it felt like a race car but I also had a gutted interior and a rollback so it all made sense.



