Dielectric grease on the port side, where the pins are?

I hit bumps ALL the time. These roads are pretty ridiculous. Even some of the roads that were only just recently paved are messed up. Bumps range from barely noticeable to enough to feel like i got tossed up. The times i've had issues have been when i kept constant RPM. Or, in the case of today, started then, since i still can't get rid of the p1157 code.

 

On palatine/willow in the eastbound left lane immediately after the milwaukee and des plaines river overpass there is now a ski jump.

As in, if you hit it at the speed limit the suspension fully compresses and unloads taking your ass off the seat.

That wasn't there two weeks ago!

 

Oh, there's a spot also on eastbound Willow just before hitting Waukegan (just as soon as the construction cones move you around). I don't know WHAT THEY WERE THINKING... but it's PAVED to do the same thing!

You don't feel the compression as much, but you do feel when it completely unloads. Its pretty jarring. Completely freaks my mom out if I hit it at speed limit (measely 40 mph).

 

My car didn't like Gary new map. Immediately after loading the map, she stumbled with a CEL and a P0103 DTC for too much air flow from the MAF sensor. The car seems to idle better with Gary's new map. However with the CEL, the car refused to go above 3000 rpm. I might just edit the Church Automotive map to include Gary's changes in the low ranges keeping an eye on the MAF sensor signal modifier.

Short term I will continue to use the SMT8L. However long term I will eventually migrate to the AEM FIC6 with a plug-n-play BoomSlang harness for reliability and longevity. I was hopeful for Hondata FlashPro. But . . . . .

Right now I am having too much fun with my Sprintex supercharger Honda Fit daily beater. Gas mileage suffers when you are constantly on boost driving aggressively. It is difficult not to drive like an A-HOLE with this small quick car. Better suspension, brake, tires, LSD and final drive gear to get off line quicker will make this car a hoot to drive.

Ferdinand, since you are getting a new SMT8L does this mean you will not be parting out your Sprintex supercharger kit. Gee I was hoping to get Sprintex spare parts for less than 50 cents to the dollar

 

Port or plug, either or. Excess will ooze out the back of the plug.

Regarding MAF codes with intakes, Jay says aftermarket intakes tend to wreak havoc. It is necessary to rescale the Analog1 table, but I don't know to what values. MAF tubing diameter can cause issues. I'm a little in the dark on this one. A K&N drop in didn't cause any problems on ours.

Again, anyone considering the AEM route, go right ahead! The software is intuitive. It can control our 5th injector setup OR bigger factory injectors. It also compensates for altitude.

We know the guys at the PerfectPower factory so we're keen on using these boxes. They're pretty versatile, despite the software quirks. It's helpful for us as a manufacturer to have something that we can just pass signals through and tinker with it. We use them in testing and debugging and they're cheap for us in bulk. These harnesses came from a 3rd party supplier in a different batch. That's why none of the Asian cars had these connectivity problems. I personally repin and sauter every one since finding the pin issue.

 

I don't have any MAF codes.

Today, i got a NEW code... P1172.

All four codes relate directly to the o2 sensor.

The more i think about it, the more i'm convinced there's a hole/leak in my exhaust before the o2 sensor. Considering the hammering it took on that impact, i wouldn't surprised if that did it in.

When i'm crusing, its under 0.100 (usually 0.055). When i let iff, it climbs slightly to just 0.100-0.200.

If i push hard it stays low, but the moment i lift off, it shoots up to .8xx or above 1.000 even, then drops back down.

When i turned the key to ON, but without starting the engine, the o2 reading slowly climbed up to a max of 1.275.... The thing it, it also starts that high after sitting overnight. A few seconds later it will initially drop slowly and then suddenly goe from something like 0.7xx to 0.1 or 0.5 or so.

All these changes are what i would expect of a leak allowing exhaust out when pushing on the throttle, and a sudden pull of oxygen from outside air through the leak when i lift off the throttle, creating a momentary vacuum from the engine other exhaust thats still moving already past the leak.

 

when the exhaust is completely cold, pour a 1:10 mix of soapy water on it and fire her up while she is on jack stands. Find the bubbles to find the leak.

Worst case, you have no leak, but now a cleaner exhaust lol

 

Auto trans guys--do you notice a drop in the throttle from 3-4 @ WOT? I can watch it close the throttle between shifts on the boost gauge, too.

 

Yes I think I have similar experience when I'm cruising at 2-3k then decide to speed up to go past somebody. Although my feet on the pedal is still putting the same amount of pressure, it feels like there is drop in the throttle.

 

I definitely get the throttle drop behavior on normal shifts, too. From 3-4 @ WOT it almost feels like "second thoughts". I can click into the next gear or back off the carpet and it doesn't seem as pronounced. However, on normal gearshifts I definitely notice a throttle drop.

 

Yup! Drops at ~3800rpm then climbs again ~4k rpm. Noticed this behavior after ECU reset. Goes away after the ECU adjusts (in my case, about 1/2 a tank of fuel).

Edit: no s/c installed, by the way.

 

I should have said 3rd-4th gear. 6200rpm is where it happens at the very top of 3rd before it shifts.

3,000-4,000rpm does have a bit of a flat spot until it relearns. I have definitely noticed that one, too. The engine doesn't like as much timing added there as it does 5200rpm+. Working on fuel and timing couldn't tune that out.

Now that the car is back on pump gas, I can definitely tell there's no jungle juice in the tank.

 

Haven't noticed this the few times i'm able to go WOT in 3rd. Usually have to brake before it shifts to 4th. I'll try it this weekend.

 

Confirmed, doesn't happen on my car. In 3rd, it revs to just-above 6500rpm then shifts to 4th. No hesitation noticed.
ECU adjusting to pump gas maybe?

Motor mods: Both cats removed, IK22, K&N drop-in, Dastek piggyback.

 

Haha even if I part out, I wouldn't be reselling the SC for only half the price since the real issue is the harness or SMT8L. Although my SC was the 2nd unit out there, it probably has the least mileage out of the first few of us since I kept having the issue and had to keep it bringing it to my mechanic.

I still haven't received the new harness/SMT8L from Gary yet but when I do and gets installed, I'll see how it runs. Like you I thought about getting the F/IC-6 and boomslang harness but will wait until I get the new parts and see how that works out.

 

Eventually I will switch over to the AEM FIC-6 with the BoomSlang harness. My car is running fine so there is no urgency to move away from the SMT8L. I have around 3k miles on the Sprintex supercharger and my car is approaching 100K miles fast. Right now there are too many maintenance stuff to do: OEM floor mat, valve adjustment, coolant flush, clutch master cylinder without delay valve, shock, brakes, tires and clutch.

It is frustrating when the car is not running as it should. Once your electrical gremlins are sorted out, you should have fun with the car. The car should be quick, nimble and easy to drive.

 

Well guys I have been away from the forum for a few weeks, but now I'm back- and unfortunately with issues. My car has begun dying at idle. It did it once a couple of weeks ago and I ignored it and figured it was no big deal. Well now it has done it 4 or 5 times this week. No other weird symptoms except a bit of a hard start which has always been there ever since I installed the kit. This hard start is almost like the starter doesn't have the power to turn over the engine.

My idle is around 600 usually which is lower than before I installed the kit. This random dying has got me extremely nervous.

Could this be due to the fact that I never did the re-learns?

 

Went back to look at my instructions and it looks as though not doing these would not cause the issue I am having. "NOTE: The procedures described above will not stop the vehicle from running correctly.
They mainly impact on the lean running fuel economy mode, which is one of the
features designed into the Honda factory tune."

I don't even know where to begin looking for the issue with the limited information I have and no CEL.

 

I have to go home this afternoon and double check but I don't believe I used NGK plugs when I put new plugs in during the install. I believe I used an equivalent Autolite plug. Autolite 3924. If I did in fact use an Autolite plug I bet that is my problem.

 

Wow it almost sounds like my problem that I am having but my mine throws cels. Did you check the map if it is still there? My piggyback was losing memory. Gary sent out new pins and wires to some of us. You will likely get one too. You wiggle the harness and does it die out? Mine doesn't. For my car, my mechanic doesn't think it's the harness because it doesn't die out when he wiggles it. He thinks my problem was the piggyback. Gary sent me a new one to test out and my car is currently being tested at this time since Wednesday. Haven't heard any issues so far with the new piggyback but we will see.