My harness is pretty well secured. Doesn't seem like an issue with that. I am going to try the relearn procedure when I get back to work and go from there.

 

I got random cylinder misfire of all cylinders about 2 weeks ago. On UltraGauge the cylinder misfire were reported as warning and not DTC. Shutting the car and restarting it didn't fixed the problem. My car had no power whatsoever with the random cylinder misfire on all cylinder. I had to clear the cylinder misfire using UltraGauge to make the car drivable.

After getting home I cleared the CKP pattern and did a relearn with my HDS HIM. The cylinder misfire has not surfaced. There was no changes to the SMT8L tuning nor any major modification. I have been running with the Church Automotive map, A-J racing exhaust pipe and O2 defouler for a while. The only changes was a deleted delay valve clutch master cylinder. Although there were more vibrations with the deleted delay valve CMC I could not see it to be the culprit.

 

Well I attempted to do the idle relearn but my gas light was already on and I let it idle for about 25 minutes and had to give up before the fan kicked on so I would have enough gas to make it home lol... Regardless of whether or not resetting the ECU without finishing the procedure did anything or not, it did not die on the way home or when I stopped for gas and beer. I checked the plugs I put in and I did use Autolite. They are xp5224. My buddy Matt who is a service manager at Honda said that I should only be running Denso or NGK, so that may have something to do with it but it may not at all. I plan on trying the idle relearn again tomorrow since I have a full tank of gas. If that doesn't solve it, I will be trying some NGK plugs. I'll let you guys know what happens.

 

Well the idle relearn has not helped. I am moving onto plugs next. Ordering some NGK when I get paid friday.

 

Jon--Please take a log and e-mail it, if possible. These piggyback units don't usually "go bad" or have a slow death. If they take a map, then they're good and I ship them.

From what we could see with the pins, that appeared to be at least obvious to the naked eye and testable. I have new pins and connector plugs to go out for the 7 kits that are out in the US.

 

I will just as soon as I have time. It may be the weekend. I have been so busy at work that I never even had a chance to download the new tune you sent me a few weeks ago. We got some snow and since it's the south no one knows how to drive so we have been overflowing with cars at the shop.

Should I try the new tune first or do you want to datalog what it's doing now and then decide on whether or not to flash the new tune?

 

Before diving into that, please do a leak check with some carb spray.

Just log with the current tune.

The new map would be the "bonus round". I don't think it will fix your issue. Anything you can tell me will help.

 

It only happens when it is warmed up or almost warm. Never when it's completely cold.

 

Very very intermittent. Today it hasn't done it once.

 

Bump.

I've only got a couple of you left to send these repair kits out to. Even those of you without issues are getting these repair kits, anyway. Repair kits consist of two new plugs for the SMT and 20 new pins (it uses 17 pins. 3 are spares.)

There's one unit left from this current batch. The new batch should be here later this Spring or early Summer.

We've got a new supplier for the harnesses, too. I've got to go back to the Chrysler world for a little while in the meantime.

It turns out a radical tune can kill the baffles in the stock muffler. That happened after gutting the inlet restrictor and running a 101+ethanol mix. I did the same thing to the Jeep about 3 months ago, still on pump gas. The conservative base tune will be in the SMT units when they ship.

A new custom 2 1/4 catback went on this weekend with a resonator and Magnaflow performance muffler. It's barely louder than stock and inconspicuous to the naked eye. Retuning the ECU didn't have any more timing to give up, however it did take some more fuel. It is at 65% of the 5th injector which I think is just about perfect. We're 1500ft above sea level in OKC. We're just starting to get into the low 80s, so I can get some more data in hotter weather.

I also dialed out that funny "throttle lift" at the top of third so it pulls straight through to the shift into 4th. The cursor skips back and forth on the top end-left to right-between the 23rd and 24th columns in the mapping. I was tapering fuel and timing before, but now it's the same figures in those last two columns. Each column is about 1.2psi worth of boost, so it's not a perfectly smooth resolution. Resolution or "nearsightedness" is sometimes a little tricky when dealing with piggybacks or standalones.

I added a skosh more heatshielding, too. That was interesting. The blower temperature is consistently 20-30F above ambient, right about where it should be according to our isentropic figures at 9psi. I was mindful of potential hotspots with an IR temperature gun. The valvecover is +30F hotter than the blower.






Funny story---When I went to get the exhaust made, the shop owner pulled it up on the rack. He had NO idea the thing was supercharged until I popped the hood . There's really no intake noise with the stock airbox.

 

Oh crap more stuff to do!!!! I want the new plugs.


Stock setup with Sprintex supercharger = no drama. 98 Kawasaki ZX6R with a full Muzzy exhaust system = my wife telling me to grow up.

 

I used to test my mods by how loud mom screamed in the passenger seat.

 

Quick question: how did you guys go about installing the new pins and plugs? did you put new wire in the pins and then sodier them to the old wire or did you cut off the plugs and crimp the wires directly into the new pins?

 

One of these.

OEM Connector/Terminal Ratchet Style Crimping Tool [CT-OEM] - $14.99

The Molex terminal pins crimp like a "B" shape around the copper wire. This kind of crimper tool can make that shape. It's a little bit of finesse, that's why there's extra pins in the repair kit for practice .

 

New pins and plugs installed. She is back to running great. I ended up prewiring the pins onto 20 gauge wire and then soldered them one by one and used some heat shrink. I also figured out another reason why my pins failed inside the plug. I know that there was a defect within them to begin with, BUT some of you may remember I have my piggyback mounted with the wires facing up into the air- this was actually causing them to be crushed by my fresh air duct on the underside of the bonnet every time I closed it. I did some trimming of the fresh air duct and actually added about 10 inches of wire to both plugs and routed them down and further away from the hood. I still have the wires facing up because for some odd reason I prefer it that way, but all in all it seems the problem has been properly sorted.


-Just in time for Import Alliance in ATL. Speaking of which, are any of you SC guys going to the event? I would love to meet up if so.


Thanks to Gary for getting my new pins and plugs sent out the same day I called him from the freeway traffic freaking out lol


Almost forgot, thanks to Jacob at my Mercedes service department for crimping all of the wires for me.

 

Curious how everyones' Fit w/SC is doing.

I saw Fuzzy post in his "possible" part out thread... he just got the replacement piggyback, so I guess we'll see from there.

I hadn't limped in a while, but I wanted to see if the "issue" persisted. So, in 1st gear I held it around 5500-6000 rpm and took a while before I gave up and decided to shift into 2nd. Popped the CEL and went limp the moment I finished shifting into 2nd. The code only remained pending and nothing more happened. Shut if off, restarted and drove off.

As for the other trouble codes I had around that rainstorm... none have reappeared since. Very odd.

On another note... was I supposed to get a repair kit?

 

Mine has been running great since the repair kit plug and pins install. My only issue is trying to find a local tuner than knows the software on our piggyback. I'm itching like crazy to add some new parts and get a re-tune.

 

I got the repair kit but have not installed it. Everything seems to be working
fine since I redid my pins and wires with dialectic grease.

There is a DTC P0171 issue that I need to track down. DTC P0171 would pop up daily for lean condition in bank 1 with my custom intake. Since reverting back to the stock air box I would occasionally see P0171. This happens with a new NTK A/F sensor from RockAuto.

 

Although I got the new plug and pins, my mechanic said that my issue was the piggyback which I got new one along with the plugs and pins. We only installed the new piggyback and i sent the old one back to Gary. I was away for 3 weeks on vacation and only got back so I haver really driven the car much yet so we will see how it goes. So far it's running fine.

 

Glad everyone is doing ok. That repair kit is basically good insurance.

Goobers---email is sent. I need your shipping address for the repair kit.

Aftermarket intakes wreak havoc on the stock ECU. "Analog 1 mod" is the table that needs a little massaging to be happy with aftermarket intakes.

We're doing well over here. This spring is going to be exciting. No SCCA racing with the shop Honda, but that's ok. We'll be plenty busy!

I have almost no traction on a damp road with VSA turned off. It doesn't grab until around 60mph...