Steven, Do you have any information on whether or not the harness will work with auto as well as manual GE's?

 

I have no additional information on the Boomslang AEM F/IC 6 harness. My assumption would be if the Boomslang's Honda GD AEM F/IC 6 harness work in both automatic and manual then the Honda GE AEM F/IC 6 harness should work as well. It would be silly for them to make the harness only for the automatic or only for the manual.

Prices for the AEM F/IC 6 isn't too bad starting at $310 from Amazon. Amazon has several F/IC 6 models that I need to dig around for the correct one.

30-1910 is a Universal Fuel/Ignition Controller and fits most 4 and 6 cylinder applications
30-1911 Fuel/Ignition Controller - 6. Mag Pickup Sensors. 80's-90's Distributed Honda/Acura
30-1912 Fuel/Ignition Controller - 6. Mag Pickup Sensors. 2000-2005 Honda S2000
30-1913 Fuel/Ignition Controller - 6. Mag or Hall Sensors. Circuit Driver for Injector Load found on Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep vehicles.
30-1920 - ???

 

New pins just arrived. Found my weekend project. These fit a lot better.

 

+1 for the AEM FIC. I've used those on Sprintex Jeeps. The interface is intuitive and they're not hard to wire in.

We have a lot of the SMT units in stock, so we're using what we've got. You can get our kit with hardware only if you like.

If you want to experiment with different engine management, I would suggest doing so without boost first. Too many try to do engine management last instead of first. It's easier to learn and far less risky without boost in the mix.

I'll post results when I redo our shop car's harness. It won't have more power, but should simply be happier. Before anyone asks, I didn't build these harnesses to begin with. I'll redo the pins and sauter them to the wiring.

 

How much power you think I can make with a stock engine and this kit??

 

My best guess would be around 130-135 to the wheels would be the top end of power on an otherwise stock engine. Mine is completely stock right now and I feel like I am probably putting down in the 130 range to the wheels. It is very smooth usable power.


I do plan on doing a PRM short ram intake and an axleback exhaust (which I have not yet picked out). My goal after tuning is 155-160 to the wheels. I do realize that dynos are not accurate all the time so realistically I am hoping for an additional 20-25 wheel hp from the exhaust, intake, and tuning. This may be a bit ambitious based on what I am doing but hey, at least a man can dream lol.


Speaking of this, does anyone know a tuner that is familiar with the Perfect Power piggyback and Letripp in the Southeast region? Specifically near Middle TN/ Northern GA/ Northern Alabama.

 

Gary, what needs to be done to tap a wideband into the SMT8 unit? I spoke with Jon at RPM and he suggest that I get a wideband to monitor my A/F, which I completely agree is a good idea. I would also like to tap it into the SMT8 to datalog it. Is this possible and how? Thanks!

 

Nice I wish I can make the same on my A/T fit... I just want to break into the 120mph range and pick up speed quick

 

Mine is a 2013 Automatic Sport with the paddle shifters. Very fun to drive with this kit. Much improved low end.

 

Axleback exhaust? Probably not necessary. The factory exhaust is not restrictive. The cat is. Very restrictive. Better to cat delete or high flow cat. Then you'll see improvement at the top end. Suggest you keep the resonator.

 

With this kit, you will pick up speed quick. But to break 120mph? If USDM Fit's aren't limited to 107mph like ours, then it should work.

 

I am going to do a custom exhaust system with a higher flow CAT, larger resonator, lighter muffler and stainless steel pipes all around. I still have to crawl under the car to take measurement. Here are some of the parts that I am looking at.

TR1 exhaust pipe 2” < --- > 2 ¼” Magnalfow CAT 2 ¼” < ---- > 2 ½” SLP resonator 2 ½” < ---- > 2 ½” Burness exhaust


Magnflow CAT for a 2000 2.4L turbocharged AWD Volvo X/C.


SLP Performance Loud Mouth Bullet Resonator


Burns Stainless 1 stage Ultra-Light racing muffler


T1R pipe back from the coating shop ceramic coated.

 

Yeah I would love to be able to do a full exhaust and do away with the cat but I have to pass emissions here unfortunately. I'm looking into it to see what I would need to do to register my Fit to my sisters address because there is no emissions testing there. I wish our cars were set up like older Hondas so I could replace the header and do a cat back and still have my catalytic converter so I could pass emissions.

 

So I decide to go ahead and buying this kit is there anything else I'll need to do or just plug and play??

 

The only thing I added that did not come in the kit was 1 step colder spark plugs.

 

definitely NOT plug and play. Better go practice with a soldering gun, cuz with some patience and dexterity, you can breathe new life into your fit!

 

I found it easier to use a mini butane torch for the soldering. The solder just clung to the wire better. Still hard to get to the wires though. Not very much room.

 

Do I need a air intake once I install the supercharge??

 

The Sprintex base map is for a stock Honda Fit GE. You might need a retune from a local tuner for any bolts-on such as cold air intake, short ram intake, T1R pipe, etc.

 

You can run the stock air box as you are told to do the instructions.