Jibber just PMed me this that he found. We aren't sure of the functions but for the price it might be worth someone buying and testing out

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190801021973?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D190801021973%26_rdc%3D1

 

I started a HDS thread:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...ml#post1218775

I believe this thing can do everything the dealer can. Not 100% about the keys though. I have done the TPMS and CKP relearn.

 

Steven, Thanks for posting your dyno runs! Do you have any opinions of the drive-ability of the new map?

 

Driveability is the same as before. Car is still quiet with the stock airbox. I have my short ram intake on the car this weekend without any problem and is now back with the stock air box. Yeah, I like the noise with the SRI. This weekend I will install the SRI and play with it a bit more.

 

So i ordered the plug, but from a different site. I don't particularly trust dxextreme.com any more than ebay, but i figured i might as well, since i also ordered a pair of controls for my Ruckus. Slightly cheaper than the ebay link (41.99 or so).

We'll see how that goes.

Yesterday i drove around with my sister's laptop logging the piggyback and testing out the original and newer maps. Also zeroed out two of the charts (something pwm and the AFR trim loop). Gary said the AFR map wasn't used and i would guess, neither is the other one i zeroed out (almost entirely zero anyway).

I consistently limped in 1st gear when holding it at 6k. 2nd gear was at 5.5k. I didn't test 3rd or 4th at the time since that needs to be on the highway.

I looked back at the log and didn't see much... Though, i guess i'm not really sure what i'm looking for.

 

With all the problem that you still had despite the newer maps,
I think you might want to retrace all your installation again from start.
sometimes the answer to complicated problem/symptom might come from some simple error.

might be wrong cable connection,
or loose connection (both mechanical or electrical),
or defective piggyback.

from what I read here, other user of this USDM Sprintex kit do not have as much problem as you.
even user that using California fuel.

 

"As much problems"?

All i have is a single reproducible problem, that others DID have, triggering limp mode with misfire codes. Actually, FuzzyFunk had worse issues, in that his Fit actually shut off completely.

Fuzzy has the advantage of having a tuner work on his. Jibbers, who also had this issue, had the advantage of an HDS clone to use. Which, incidentally, is the solution i am attempting.

At the moment, i don't have the advantage of living in a warm state or even a heated garage... Hell, don't even have a usable garage (2 car garage full of my sister's stuff).

Could there be bad wiring, or otherwise faulty parts? Sure, its possible, but considering i have zero issues, except on a forced condition (holding a gear at high rpm for close to 5 seconds), i'm inclined to believe they are all working. Logging shows the piggyback picks up and receives data on the appropriate connections.

So, before you jump in and tell me what to do, consider that i am i trying to exhaust possible solutions one by one, from relatively easy to "less than ideal."

In case you didn't notice, the newer maps didn't solve anyone else's issue either.

 

Goobers, If you are confident with the wiring, then your issue Is likely the tune.

What other mods do you have on your car?

My tuner relooked over the wiring so many times and kept getting the same issue. My tuner originally thought it was a defective piggyback. Gary kept telling him it was his installation, but my tuner said no, he is absolutely confident that it isn't the wiring, it's the tune or a defective piggyback. Finally Gary got back at him and found out that it was the tune most likely causing the problem.

We got the new tune from Church Automotive that Gary sent us and that fixed the issue. No more misfiring or CELs. I had to keep the airbox instead of my injen intake. I'll be going to Church Automotive directly to get a new tune with my injen cold air intake this Saturday. Was gonna add the t1r header and midpipe but after hearing that YouTube video with the guy's mugen exhaust which I have also, I decided to stick with just the cai to keep the car quiet cause that sound from the video sounded horrendous and absolutely annoying.

 

Look, everybody can make mistake,
I did make mistake in the past,
other people make mistake,
I am sure you made mistake too.
but considering you are the only one left still with this issue,
an yes, I consider a limp issue all the time is MUCH PROBLEM,
imagine what happened if you need to accelerate fast to get out of dangerous situation and your car limp at that very moment...
this is life and death situation...

what I notice is, the newer maps actually solve other people problem...
who else here still have limping issue beside you?

I am not saying you are stupid for possibly making a mistake in wiring,
even rocket scientist do make mistake from time to time...
I know I make a lot of mistake in the past,

I also do NOT suggest that you are the only possibility of making mistake here...
it could be
defective on the piggy back electronics
or defective on the supercharger seal or something...

I once had a "rear engined" Turbocharged car ,
serviced by the chief of the mechanic at a very famous dealership in L.A.,
whose customer is all the celebrity...
and few days after the car got serviced, it don't have enough power...
turn out, he forget to tighten the clamp for the hose from the turbo to the intercooler.... to err is human

I am only suggesting you to recheck all the connection of the intake and other sensor, and all the wiring again...
and then perhaps check whether it might be a defective piggy back (which is certainly not your fault)

and that holding a gear at high rpm,
that sound like HIGH VIBRATION and HIGHER PRESSURE environment,
which might create the situation why your car trigger (like loose connection in wiring or pipe/seal) ?

I am not telling you what to do, I am only suggesting you what you might want to do. this is internet forum.

why you are getting so upset ?

I remember few days ago, some other poster wrote a list of people who had sprintex,
and on that list, he wrote something like your car is half ready or something like that,
and you are already UPSET because of that...

oh man... you complain here all the time about your car,
and when someone give you suggestion,
you immediately became upset

ok, don't worry,
I won't suggest anything anymore to you ever...


ps: just remember,
all the people here already have their problem solved with the new map.
how about you? hahahahhahahahahahhahahahahahahhahhahhaa

 

Honda has a advance computer and is torque limited. I have been reading that book I sent a link about and it explained the problem with this type of ecu. As soon as the sensors come with in 5 to 10 percent of the torque limit it does counteractive maneuvers which is throwing it in Limp mode or cutting power. This is most likely the reason there is no Flash pro but they did say they are using power cards to enrich the the fuel trims. Timing will most likely retard which is what you want anyways by itself so the ecu will take care of that. My point is the sensors are the limit and not the ecu.

Sorry if this was talked about and I was following but probably missed it.

 

Did i say i did everything correctly? No.

I'm pretty sure when i said "could there be bad wiring," i admitted i could've made a mistake.

But i also said, that from whatever indications i could find, it appears to be "correct."

Bmw, re-read the thread... The high vibration, can also fool the CKP sensor into thinking theres a knock, which is what i am currently attempting to eliminate at this step.

While i was incorrect in who the new map solve issues for... Name all the people. church automotive created that map, but its due to all of their mods. But the question that begs to be asked, did they have the same misfiring issues in the first place? Or was it simply too lean due to mods?

Fuzzy has stated that his tuner got it to work with the new map, so i definitely stand corrected there.

That being said... Thats it. Jibbers got rid of his misfires after a CKP clear/relearn, not from the map. Steven actually never had the misfire, nor did jonathan. Want to throw some more claims at me?

You claim i was upset because someone initially said my car was half ready or something?? Haha.. What a joke. you really think my response was made in "anger." There are times when people "should read between the lines," but in your case, you're reading imaginary lines.

"Complaining all the time" eh? I'm pretty sure i only said i was annoyed twice. Everything else was merely me doing a "status" update. How i triggered it and my attempts at solutions. If i want, i can easily drive "normally" without triggering limp. Your "its dangerous" situation has a flaw, in that i'm pretty sure most would only need to "blip" into high RPM, not hold 6k RPM for over 5 seconds to get out of a sticky situation. My Fit doesn't limp if i go WOT to redline. When would you hold 1st gear at 6k RPM for 5 seconds or more? Maybe when doing donuts?

Hey, if you never suggest anything to me again, i'm all for it. But before you make any claims about me, i suggest you re-read this thread, not just skim over it.

All that being said, i've been considering that i feel like i've been hijacking the thread (before bmw's recent posts). So, i'm gonna stop posting in here, at least, until it is indeed solved (and i'll post what the issue ended up being). Suffice it to say, until i do post my resolution, it should be safe to assume i still have the misfire issues.

Ciao.

 

We are here to share information and help each other. That is the point of the thread. The installation can be frustrating and many things can go wrong. Please be courteous.

 

I did 321 miles on 10 gallons of 93 octane with the new map—Church Automotive map. Car is running fine without any problem. By the end of this week I will have over 1000 miles on the supercharger. Before I know it the warranty would be up.

The only strange problem that I am having is connectivity between the SMT8L and my laptop. Yesterday while logging in LetRipp, the SMT8L stopped uploading data and not matter what I do the SMT8L refused to communicate to the laptop. LetRipp does show USB on-line status. The car still runs perfectly with the connectivity problem between SMT8L and my laptop.

• Reboot the laptop with USB cable
• Reboot the laptop without the USB cable
• Disconnect the car's battery then did the previous two steps above
  - My car has a battery quick disconnect kit
• Use a different USB port then did the previous steps above

This morning I hooked up the laptop to the SMT8L, started LetRipp and still no data from the SMT8L. Shutdown the laptop thinking the USB cable might be the problem. As I enter my office parking garage I pulled out the power inverter with the laptop still connect and immediately check engine light come on with DTC for CKP and cylinder misfire. The USB was also connected but LetRipp was not running because the laptop is shutdown. Once I parked my car I opened the hood and disconnect the car battery for 10 seconds and reconnect. I started the engine and both the CEL and the DTC for CKP and cylinder misfire are gone without having to do any DTC clear. Tonight there will be more play time with the SMT8L and my laptop. I need to confirm whether it is a USB cable issue or a cable interference issue.

There are two signals that the SMT8L intercept and manipulate that I know of.

• CKP signal
• MAF signal

I thought DTCs persist in the ECM and a tool is need to clear them not just a battery disconnect.

 

Someone has been holding out on us!

 

Yup the car runs pretty good as well.

 

^Yep!

Good tuner makes all the difference

 

What intake is that?

 

To tell you the truth its my buddies car I am just the painter.

I can ask him if you want.

 

topfuel powerchamber 2 just by looking at it

 

Cool!!! Another supercharger car up and running with blink blink. I have to keep my car low key so no blink blink for me. My short ram intake heat shield is made from recycle stainless steel from a ButterBall turkey fryer. If my wife ever find out I will be in the dog house. The only consolation would be a LV or Gucci purse. She did ask why the engine looks different. I told her the plastic intake manifold is crap and need to be replaced. Is your a 2013? What other modifications do you have in addition to the intake?

If enough Fit owners mod their car there could be critical mass to motivate more speed parts for our car.

Please guys, adhere to the topic at hand on Sprintex supercharger install. We are here to share information/experience and not bicker among ourselves.