There's no way you would see 265whp with ours. I think the upper limit is going to be around 180whp-ish. It's still "low boost" and pump gas friendly.

 

This was using a T3 footprint turbo. It was making 280hp/265tq.

 

All freaking done.

 

That looks great how long did it take for the install?

 

It took FOR-FREAKING-EVER.

Honestly, the instructions.... Need instructions for them.

How can i reattach a crash protection bracket, if i never took it off? On top of that, it says to remove fuel rail and harness, then remove injectors.... Then reinstall rail and harness. Um, what about the injectors? And why did i remove it anyway? Just to bend a tab, that i found easier to bend WHILE it was still mounted?

My friend, whom is more experienced than I at working on cars was scratching his head pretty often too.

And, while the the MAP 1 & 3 sensor plugs are labeled, why aren't the sensors themselves labeled?!? Staring at them.... Which one is which? We finally decided to follow the obscure shadow in the picture that show MAP 1 had 1 notch, while MAP 3 had 2 notches.... Or we hope thats right!

Started at about 11 am monday with tearing down.... Barely finished around 2:30 pm tuesday (today)!!!!

 

Congratulation on your Sprintex supercharger installed. Instructions in the installation manual could be better for DIYer. The Sprintex supercharger installation was simple compare to a turbo charger installation. There are more plumbing, more vacuum hoses and electronic for a turbo installation. The only difficult parts as Jibberjabbs pointed out are the wiring. It would be easier if the kit came with a plug and play wire harness option for the ECU. I would not mind paying the extra dough.

The 3 bar map sensor part number is 12223861. This part number is on the sensor. They are very common, easily found, relatively inexpensive and voltage table is well published.

Be safe and have fun with the car. Punching the car all the way to redline gives me some giggles. The car is tame under 3000 rpm. Above 3000 rpm is where the fun starts especially around 6200 rpm.

 

Spoke too soon, i had pending codes for misfires, cleared it earlier today and now they're back.

 

Goobers, What codes are you seeing? Do you have other mods? I have double checked my wiring and put the stock airbox back on. Now I'm just waiting for some decent weather to test it again.

Also you are right on with the complaints of the manual. I had the same issues. They could use more advice for routing the fuel line. I think bending the fuel rail tabs without removing it could save some time. Also I did not separate the SC from the manifold and mounted them as one. I found it possible to install the new belt from the top of the engine, so I did not have to remove the undertray. And what is the point of moving that ground strap?

 

Misfire codes are fun to diagnose. I used to get them because I was running too lean/not high enough octane/Not Pulling Enough timing. Hook an OBD2 reader up and do a full throttle run. Note the timing. 15 to 13.5 dbtdc means you have a serious problem with fuel or timing. Without AFR it's hard to tell. Ideally you want to see 22-20 dbtdc on a full throttle run from 4k-7k. Decreasing from 22 to 20 around the 5.5k mark.


Keep in mind the timing you see on the OBD2 reader is not the real timing the engine is getting post-piggyback. If you aren't at max timing (22-20) then you live or die on the knock sensor.

I also got misfire codes because water was getting inside my electrical taped solder conections. Use heat shrink.

 

I saw the 300-305 codes for pending... then two that actually threw the engine light. I forgot what they were though (one was something 0335 is all I can remember).

I ignored them, because I initially started my car WITHOUT the piggyback (I forgot to plug it in). I only realized my piggyback wasn't plugged in when my RPM gauge was stuck at ZERO. I shut it off, plugged it in and went at for a test drive. On my way home (the install was done at my friend's place)... that was when I looked at the codes, but with the roads the way they were, I wasn't being too attentive with the Ultragauge. Once I got home, I shut off my engine and reset the codes... only really remembering what I mentioned.

I haven't triggered limp mode yet. Though I did get pretty close to redline a few times.

Oh, in terms of intake/exhaust mods, the only other thing that even comes close is the K&N drop in filter. So, basically no.

I run BP 93... even before the SC. As for the timing, I was looking at UG on occasion... the timing is EVERYWHERE. But, I haven't seen it hit as high as I used to. Highest I recall today was 35-40, where I hit 50 before. Of course, when slowing down, it still goes -20 sometimes. so honestly... I'm not sure what to make of it.

I tried doing the idle relearn, but for the life of me, I couldn't tell if the radiator fan came on. Will need to do that and CKP later.

 

We can access the SMT8 piggy back using Power Perfect LetRipp software from a laptop. Logging can be enabled. There was no motivation to run the USB cable from the engine bay to the cabin and to learn the software. But this could be another tool to help with trouble shooting when issues arise. It might give an insight on what it is doing to the MAF signal and the RPM. By the time the ECU see the MAF signal and the reported RPM it might have already been manipulated.

I too have the K&N drop in air filter with the stock air box. You remind me to test redline fuel cutoff.

I use GC Electronic Red GLPT insulating varnish if heat shrink cannot be used. Wire tap or Tee is where I would use it after soldering. It will take time to dry and to cure.

 

Yep that's my plan, try to log with the smt8. I also have a HDS that I might be able to log with.

 

A 6 feet USB cable will reach the passenger side seat. Here is a LetRipp screent shot. The logging and playback feature is neat. I setup the gauges that I want to monitor and the data logged can be play back.

Gary, what analog input and output is the MAF sensor connected to on the SMT8. Is it analog1 input or analog2 input? Analog2 input could be MAF because at idle the voltage is around 0.46 volt. Analog1 input could be A/F because it hovers 2.54 volts.


Does anyone has the voltage map for the exhaust manifold A/F sensor? I googled this but don't know if this is correct.

 

Goobers does your car VSA? Both times I got CELs I was in situations where VSA could have been kicking in. I am going to watch this closely. My theory would be that current draw from the ABS could possibly cause a brown out condition to the SMT8? Then the cars ECU would not see the O2 sensor or the MAF. I wonder if the development car had VSA? (this is just a theory)


Gary, Did your development car have VSA? Can the SMT8 detect a brown out or power interruption and keep the error somewhere?

Also I put the stock airbox back on and all the SC sound is gone. Booo! Still need some good weather so I can push it harder.

 

nope, no VSA for me.

 

Hi, Steven. Can you email a log file, please? It will be an .RDR extension. I'm curious what's in yours.

Before I cover the SMT unit in more depth, let's back up a little bit. I've been talking to Jay over the past few days, watching everyone's issues.

To those of you that can put the stock intakes back on, please do so. You need to rescale one of the analog tables inside the unit if you add an intake. There's little benefit to using one until you cut out the restrictor. We've got a rescaled table, but let's start of more simply if we can.

 

Good theory... it's probably not a major issue, but I wonder if the SC will have different issues with VSA equipped cars...


Also wonder if there would be any AT vs MT variations which could cause these error codes.




Glad to see quite a few are on this, and hopefully it will still be available for a bit. I'd really like to see Hondata jump in with support, or at the very least that plug & play option that was suggested.

 

I see a lot of you using intakes and getting CEL's.

Try putting the stock air box on. I have put root style s/c on past vehicles, and the noise from the supercharger would cause turbulence in the intake pipe. That was in turn causing the MAF sensor to get incorrect reading during boost.

You will likely need a custom tune to run your intake with this supercharger, unless the MAF map is/can be simulated by the piggyback.

 

With some of you running lean, it could very well be because of your intakes. It does not take much more airflow to throw things out of whack.

I think it's about time to start writing the SMT FAQ.

There are several vehicles running around in Asia. CR-Z, Fit, AT + MT alike. The main problem with tapping into that knowledge base is a language barrier. We'll just have to inch along at our own pace here and handle problems as they arise. To that end, try not to get ahead of yourself with bolt-ons. Every new part that you bolt on will require a different tune in the SMT. Until you and/or your tuner get comfortable with using the SMT, please slow down with the bolt-ons. You can make your own learning curve a lot harder in addition to making problems harder to diagnose.

These units can be susceptible to electrical interference and dropped voltage levels. Such an innocuous thing as the horn caused problems when we mounted the unit next to it. Honda is very good about finding costs to cut. Stripped out insulation in the horn caused that problem. It takes a mind like Jay's to find stuff like that. I'm no engineer.

When uploading the maps, you have to be mindful of voltages, as well. These boxes depend heavily on voltages. The values that you adjust outside of timing and fuel are all voltages between .01-5v, not arbitrary values. I think it would be helpful if I posted the values that are supposed to be in the tables. What I'd like to avoid is having anyone change anything all willy nilly trying to "experiment" with different numbers or getting ahead of us.

I'm going to get going on the SMT FAQ now that a few of you have figured out how to get into it. Not everything in there is as it seems at face value.

 

I cleared the pending code yesterday and it didn't show up the rest of the night.

I'm gonna leave it alone to see if the pending pops up again and turns into a full blown code.

Incidentally, I've only had stock airbox with the K&N drop-in filter (I don't like the extra noise that most aftermarket intakes "allow").