Sprintex Supercharger Install
Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 138
From: Charlotte
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,295
From: Wandering around.
Well, that blows. I thought the new map was doing good, albeit running REALLY RICH (my trims are staying negative, so ECU is fighting to lean it back out).
But, after having lunch, I took it for a test drive up and down the highway. Although I didn't push it too hard, it went up fine. Heck, it came down fine. But because I passed my exit to go home, I had to flip around again (though I purposely skipped the next exit to make it further). I kept my throttle position relatively consistent when getting on the highway... but eventually, after holding it a bit at high RPM in 3rd gear (traffic was a bit slow), it limped.
That is interesting.
The unit in the diagram uses a different USB connection, so I'm not sure it's the same.
What is really interesting, is the BLUE wire.
In the installation sheets, it says the BLUE wire is for the "12v power supply injector, location 10." However, in the pinout diagram, it lists blue wire as Air Temperature input.
The closest thing to injector related is the ORANGE "Injector drive, 1amp" in the diagram.
Of course, this is all assuming the wiring diagram matches the ACTUAL wires. Maybe the BLUE and ORANGE wires got swapped when the wire harness was set up (since RED vs PINK was already a pain, throwing ORANGE might be too much).
Incidentally, anyone figure out what "with Blue wire (spliced to Blue/White wire from supp. fuel injector plug)" means? I mean, from what I could tell, it didn't particularly look like it had been spliced together. Did it want us to do the splicing?
But, after having lunch, I took it for a test drive up and down the highway. Although I didn't push it too hard, it went up fine. Heck, it came down fine. But because I passed my exit to go home, I had to flip around again (though I purposely skipped the next exit to make it further). I kept my throttle position relatively consistent when getting on the highway... but eventually, after holding it a bit at high RPM in 3rd gear (traffic was a bit slow), it limped.
The unit in the diagram uses a different USB connection, so I'm not sure it's the same.
What is really interesting, is the BLUE wire.
In the installation sheets, it says the BLUE wire is for the "12v power supply injector, location 10." However, in the pinout diagram, it lists blue wire as Air Temperature input.
The closest thing to injector related is the ORANGE "Injector drive, 1amp" in the diagram.
Of course, this is all assuming the wiring diagram matches the ACTUAL wires. Maybe the BLUE and ORANGE wires got swapped when the wire harness was set up (since RED vs PINK was already a pain, throwing ORANGE might be too much).
Incidentally, anyone figure out what "with Blue wire (spliced to Blue/White wire from supp. fuel injector plug)" means? I mean, from what I could tell, it didn't particularly look like it had been spliced together. Did it want us to do the splicing?
Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 250
From: Madison
Well, that blows. I thought the new map was doing good, albeit running REALLY RICH (my trims are staying negative, so ECU is fighting to lean it back out).
But, after having lunch, I took it for a test drive up and down the highway. Although I didn't push it too hard, it went up fine. Heck, it came down fine. But because I passed my exit to go home, I had to flip around again (though I purposely skipped the next exit to make it further). I kept my throttle position relatively consistent when getting on the highway... but eventually, after holding it a bit at high RPM in 3rd gear (traffic was a bit slow), it limped.
That is interesting.
The unit in the diagram uses a different USB connection, so I'm not sure it's the same.
What is really interesting, is the BLUE wire.
In the installation sheets, it says the BLUE wire is for the "12v power supply injector, location 10." However, in the pinout diagram, it lists blue wire as Air Temperature input.
The closest thing to injector related is the ORANGE "Injector drive, 1amp" in the diagram.
Of course, this is all assuming the wiring diagram matches the ACTUAL wires. Maybe the BLUE and ORANGE wires got swapped when the wire harness was set up (since RED vs PINK was already a pain, throwing ORANGE might be too much).
Incidentally, anyone figure out what "with Blue wire (spliced to Blue/White wire from supp. fuel injector plug)" means? I mean, from what I could tell, it didn't particularly look like it had been spliced together. Did it want us to do the splicing?
But, after having lunch, I took it for a test drive up and down the highway. Although I didn't push it too hard, it went up fine. Heck, it came down fine. But because I passed my exit to go home, I had to flip around again (though I purposely skipped the next exit to make it further). I kept my throttle position relatively consistent when getting on the highway... but eventually, after holding it a bit at high RPM in 3rd gear (traffic was a bit slow), it limped.
That is interesting.
The unit in the diagram uses a different USB connection, so I'm not sure it's the same.
What is really interesting, is the BLUE wire.
In the installation sheets, it says the BLUE wire is for the "12v power supply injector, location 10." However, in the pinout diagram, it lists blue wire as Air Temperature input.
The closest thing to injector related is the ORANGE "Injector drive, 1amp" in the diagram.
Of course, this is all assuming the wiring diagram matches the ACTUAL wires. Maybe the BLUE and ORANGE wires got swapped when the wire harness was set up (since RED vs PINK was already a pain, throwing ORANGE might be too much).
Incidentally, anyone figure out what "with Blue wire (spliced to Blue/White wire from supp. fuel injector plug)" means? I mean, from what I could tell, it didn't particularly look like it had been spliced together. Did it want us to do the splicing?
I noticed that our wiring harness is slightly different that the one in the SMT8L manual. The SMT8L manual has an orange wire where we have a blue/white, but it still goes to where it is supposed to.
Also there is a blue wire spliced to a blue/white concealed in the harness. That is the blue wire we hooked up for 12v.
I'm still telling you gotta do the CKP relearn. I have had no CELs since
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,295
From: Wandering around.
Goobers,
I noticed that our wiring harness is slightly different that the one in the SMT8L manual. The SMT8L manual has an orange wire where we have a blue/white, but it still goes to where it is supposed to.
(edit for space)
Also there is a blue wire spliced to a blue/white concealed in the harness. That is the blue wire we hooked up for 12v.
I'm still telling you gotta do the CKP relearn. I have had no CELs since
I noticed that our wiring harness is slightly different that the one in the SMT8L manual. The SMT8L manual has an orange wire where we have a blue/white, but it still goes to where it is supposed to.
(edit for space)
Also there is a blue wire spliced to a blue/white concealed in the harness. That is the blue wire we hooked up for 12v.
I'm still telling you gotta do the CKP relearn. I have had no CELs since
New Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 16
From: St. Pete, FloRida
Well, that blows. I thought the new map was doing good, albeit running REALLY RICH (my trims are staying negative, so ECU is fighting to lean it back out).
But, after having lunch, I took it for a test drive up and down the highway. Although I didn't push it too hard, it went up fine. Heck, it came down fine. But because I passed my exit to go home, I had to flip around again (though I purposely skipped the next exit to make it further). I kept my throttle position relatively consistent when getting on the highway... but eventually, after holding it a bit at high RPM in 3rd gear (traffic was a bit slow), it limped.
But, after having lunch, I took it for a test drive up and down the highway. Although I didn't push it too hard, it went up fine. Heck, it came down fine. But because I passed my exit to go home, I had to flip around again (though I purposely skipped the next exit to make it further). I kept my throttle position relatively consistent when getting on the highway... but eventually, after holding it a bit at high RPM in 3rd gear (traffic was a bit slow), it limped.
Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 250
From: Madison
PS Also check out ITEM9s build thread on his CRZ! Very impressive.
Last edited by jibberjabbs; Jan 9, 2014 at 04:03 PM.
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,295
From: Wandering around.
That's just it, I don't have an HDS.
I didn't reset my ECU and attempted the CKP relearn by itself (though, instead of listening for the fan, i waited until the temp reached 194)... no dice. it still limped.
Maybe I should just take it to a dealer and let them do the reset and learning procedures and see if that takes care of it.
I didn't reset my ECU and attempted the CKP relearn by itself (though, instead of listening for the fan, i waited until the temp reached 194)... no dice. it still limped.
Maybe I should just take it to a dealer and let them do the reset and learning procedures and see if that takes care of it.
Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 250
From: Madison
That's just it, I don't have an HDS.
I didn't reset my ECU and attempted the CKP relearn by itself (though, instead of listening for the fan, i waited until the temp reached 194)... no dice. it still limped.
Maybe I should just take it to a dealer and let them do the reset and learning procedures and see if that takes care of it.
I didn't reset my ECU and attempted the CKP relearn by itself (though, instead of listening for the fan, i waited until the temp reached 194)... no dice. it still limped.
Maybe I should just take it to a dealer and let them do the reset and learning procedures and see if that takes care of it.
HDS Clear Command
The ECM/PCM stores various specific data to correct the system even if there is no electrical power, such as when the battery negative terminal is disconnected. Stored data based on failed parts should be cleared by using the CLEAR COMMAND of the HDS, if parts are replaced. The HDS has three kinds of clear commands to meet this purpose. They are DTC clear, ECM/PCM reset, and CKP pattern clear. The DTC clear command erases all stored DTCs, freeze data, on-board snapshot, and readiness codes. This must be done with the HDS after reproducing the DTC during troubleshooting. The ECM/PCM reset command erases all stored DTCs, freeze data, on-board snapshot, readiness codes, and all specific data to correct the system except CKP pattern. If the CKP pattern data in the ECM/PCM was cleared, you must do the CKP pattern learn procedure. The CKP pattern clear command erases only CKP pattern data. This command is for repair of a misfire or the CKP sensor.
Hey, guys. I needed to have this new map file to send around before chiming in. It has richer fuelling with less spark timing, tuned on Cali's swamp water 
.
So far so good with the beta tester. He'll chime in when he's ready. Church Automotive developed his tune file WITH all of his mods on the car. Some of you have mods that you can't readily undo just to make our mapping happy. It would be unfair to expect that.
For the record, the base map in the box is not "my tuning"--it's Jay's and was developed on a bone stock vehicle. Most all of you have mods, though. I suspect Church's mod tune will run better on your cars. I know how to work with the SMT unit, but won't be writing any maps any time soon.
. So far so good with the beta tester. He'll chime in when he's ready. Church Automotive developed his tune file WITH all of his mods on the car. Some of you have mods that you can't readily undo just to make our mapping happy. It would be unfair to expect that.
For the record, the base map in the box is not "my tuning"--it's Jay's and was developed on a bone stock vehicle. Most all of you have mods, though. I suspect Church's mod tune will run better on your cars. I know how to work with the SMT unit, but won't be writing any maps any time soon.
Any news update on the Fit that Church Automotive was working on? Is the tune complete with no more issues?
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,295
From: Wandering around.
Well, did some testing... In any gear, if i sit above 4500 rpm too long, it limps. I mean, its fine for a few seconds, but if you keep holding it there, it trips limp mode.
First time was a hair above 4500 rpm in 2nd gear. (Edit:seems its higher, since i attempted again, had to get closer to 5k, best guess is 4700) Second time was about 5k in 1st. Then again about 4700 or so in 2nd.
I guess i should point out one thing that i've been ignoring... The clamp on the airbox where it meets the throttle isn't secure (i forgot to tighten it before putting the cowl on). I ignored it, because it was a pretty snug fit when pushing it on, so i figured the clamp was just extra. The airflow through the main body should be more than enough to prevent any vacuum effect on that part.
But, tonight, i'm gonna stop by walmart or even autozone to see if they have a long enough 3/8" extension and finally tighten that bit.
That being said... It looks like the consistent thing is holding over 4500 rpm to trigger limp. Going to use that to test after tightening.
Ps. 4700 reminds me of the strange number in the map, specifically, the -87 in the target AFR loop.
First time was a hair above 4500 rpm in 2nd gear. (Edit:seems its higher, since i attempted again, had to get closer to 5k, best guess is 4700) Second time was about 5k in 1st. Then again about 4700 or so in 2nd.
I guess i should point out one thing that i've been ignoring... The clamp on the airbox where it meets the throttle isn't secure (i forgot to tighten it before putting the cowl on). I ignored it, because it was a pretty snug fit when pushing it on, so i figured the clamp was just extra. The airflow through the main body should be more than enough to prevent any vacuum effect on that part.
But, tonight, i'm gonna stop by walmart or even autozone to see if they have a long enough 3/8" extension and finally tighten that bit.
That being said... It looks like the consistent thing is holding over 4500 rpm to trigger limp. Going to use that to test after tightening.
Ps. 4700 reminds me of the strange number in the map, specifically, the -87 in the target AFR loop.
Last edited by Goobers; Jan 9, 2014 at 08:57 PM.
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Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 259
From: Tampa, FL
Yeah I brought the RadioShack expensive $20 gold plated 6' cable. It has enough reach to about 1/3 of the way to the passenger seat snaking through the engine firewall grommet on the driver side next to the brake booster. I took the SMT8L to Radio Shack to match the USB cable.
Hey guys, What Mini USB cable are you guys using and how long does it need to be to reach the cabin? 6' enough or should I get a 10'?
Radio Shack has a 6' Mini to regular USB for $20. It kills me to spend that much on it seeing them on Amazon for $3, but I don't want to get a cable that ends up not working because I know some of you have tried cables that do plug in but will not communicate.
Radio Shack has a 6' Mini to regular USB for $20. It kills me to spend that much on it seeing them on Amazon for $3, but I don't want to get a cable that ends up not working because I know some of you have tried cables that do plug in but will not communicate.
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Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 259
From: Tampa, FL
If the throttle body intake hose clamp is loose enough it would cause un-meter air to enter the engine by-passing the MAF sensor. This can/will make the engine run lean.
I guess i should point out one thing that i've been ignoring... The clamp on the airbox where it meets the throttle isn't secure (i forgot to tighten it before putting the cowl on). I ignored it, because it was a pretty snug fit when pushing it on, so i figured the clamp was just extra. The airflow through the main body should be more than enough to prevent any vacuum effect on that part.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 259
From: Tampa, FL
The color in the Sprintex SMT8L wire harness is not exactly identical to the Perfect Power SMT8L manual. You will need to use a multi-meter to trace the harness wires back to the PIN connector through a continuity test. I traced the wires I soldered back to the SMT8L PIN connector after a couple of gentle tugs. That is how I proofed the soldered wires are good and up to the task. I cannot find the piece of paper with the notes that has harness wires to SMTL8 connector PIN.
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,295
From: Wandering around.
Got a long enough screw driver and tightened that clamp some... Enough that the screwdriver started to strip the head. So, i can't get it any tighter until i use a 5.5mm socket with a long extension (i only have one short extension that fits at the moment).
In any case... I can still trip limp mode.
As for the wiring, i'm leaning towards (and mostly hoping), correct. I think once i get my new laptop, i can try logging to see if the wires produce data (and correctly). Unfortunately, its most likely another two weeks (custom laptop).
In any case... I can still trip limp mode.
As for the wiring, i'm leaning towards (and mostly hoping), correct. I think once i get my new laptop, i can try logging to see if the wires produce data (and correctly). Unfortunately, its most likely another two weeks (custom laptop).
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Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 259
From: Tampa, FL
I traveled another 310 miles and used 10 gallons of 93 octane gasoline. That put it to around 31 miles per gallon. 1 mile better per gallon from the first 300 miles on the Sprintex supercharger.
Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 250
From: Madison
How close to that was your cluster displayed MPG?