My friend and i decided to split the task on wiring.... I do the cutting and insulation trimming, he does the soldering. Basically because its my car, so i'm responsible for the cut. But i defer to his soldering skills since its part of his normal job (i just do deliveries).

Edit: its a little late now for my install, but i guess i'll crack open my replica service manual when i get home and see if i can pinpoint the wires we clipped and tapped into. I did try to see if i could find the pinout for the smt8-l, but couldn't get what i wanted. The goal being, to see if they match what the intended wires are supposed to do.

 

Mine is ordered! Add me to the club. It's a glorious day.

 

We're digging into your traction control mishaps over here.

I'm curious when/if you guys hit fuel cut in hard cornering. Could you be starving the pump at all when horsing around in the snow? My Subaru is bad about that fuel slosh below 2/3 of a tank on fast right handers.

 

Gary,

I need a sanity check. One thing I noticed is the air temperature reading seems a bit high on the SMT8L. In the morning when I start the car, the air temperature reflect the ambient temperature around 50°F. However in the afternoon, getting ready to drive home, the air temperature read much higher above 85°F even though the car has been sitting in a shaded garage for about 8 hours. The ambient temperature in the garage could not be more than 75°F yesterday. I saw it again at around noon time when I was about to head out for food. The SMT8 air temperate reading was above 85°F despite the ambient temperature being a nippy Tampa Florida 50°F. I checked for loose throttle body coupler, loose MAF connector, loose MAP connector and loose vacuum hoses but didn't find any. Could this be attributed to a dirty MAF or the MAF starting to go bad after 97,000K miles? Where is the SMT8L reading the air temperature from?

I went back and examined this morning log and yesterday morning logs. The air temperature reading from the SMT has always been above 85°F even when the engine is cold.

 

I don't know.

I didn't do a "hard corner" by any definition. I mean, i was the second car stopped at the light and then struggled to get traction while making an inclined right turn on slush (its a pretty ridiculous combo and far too many of them around me). Despite my spinning wheels, i was barely crawling through the turn. So i'm pretty sure my half tank of gas wasn't sloshing around.

When i finally got on the curved highway ramp, i had to take it easy at the start.... Since i didn't feel like sliding into the concrete wall.

 

This sounds quite similar to my experience. I was turning right from a complete stop. The wheels were spinning because I had TC off, and there was snow. Then I just lost power as I was attempting to accelerate, and I noticed the CEL was flashing.

 

Consider that Tyler and JCrim, Type 100.. seeing heavy Auto-x and Circuit duty... these guys have never mentioned starving for fuel, and at least the first two are on 225mm <140 wear tires for that matter.

This is not a cavitating fuel pump causing the issue.

 

On a side note, has anyone reset ECU, done the idle relearn and CKP?

 

Nope I don’t have a scan tool. I thought you posted your attempt to follow the procedure but wasn't sure the radiator fan came on. Do you notice any difference?

 

It was cold, so i sat in inside and couldn't hear if the radiator came on.

Triggered limp mode again.... All five pending code became full blown CELs.

Came down the ramp uneventful being stuck in the middle of a train of cars. Right when i hit the pedal to pass, it limped.

Then i got horrible shaking... Though, i think thats a separate issue due to snow packing onto my wheels.

Edit: my car blew up.

Well, there was something i could only describe as an explosion (albeit small one) under my car when i ran over a chunk of ice or really packed snow.

The funny thing is, thats when i noticed my CEL went out! Pending codes are clear, but UG still has those misfires listed as trouble codes despite also confirming, no CEL.

But i also question that explosion... Was it from the ice/snow or something else? Kind of reminds me of how a person clears their throat.

 

Steven,
I have 3 questions:
1. did the NGK BRK 7EIX-11 came with the Sprintex Kit or you have to buy your self?
(did Sprintex required you to change the colder spark plug as part of the requirement for this kit or not?)

2. if I am not mistaken this NGK BRK 7EIX-11 is the equivalent of
Denso 5310 right?

3. now, if we go one more step colder to:
Denso (5701) IK01-24 Iridium Racing Spark Plug

will there be any different in performance and driveability/cold start?

I am asking the above questions because I had some rewards point at Amazon that I want to spent,
and thinking of using it to buy spark plugs but I don't want to buy it if the Sprintex kit will came with the spark plug included.

Thanks

 

Gary@Sprintex,

Will Sprintex release the Supercharger kit with CARB certification FOR SURE in the near future?
I mean how sure are you that you will get CARB certification for this kit?

Because I do prefer a kit that had CARB certification so I don't have to uninstall and reinstall my supercharger every 3 years or so when it time to do the SMOG/Emission Check

If I bought the kit with CARB certification,
would I be able to later "unlock" and tuned the piggy back
(of course with blessing/permission from you and of course maybe paying some extra cost for tuned map directly from Sprintex).
or this LOCK piggy back will be lock forever and can not be unlock again?

and if I buy the kit BEFORE you get CARB certification,
Can I LATER "UPGRADE/pay extra" for the CARB Certification Tuned Map (when you already passed the CARB certification process) and get the CARB certificate from you?

Thanks

 

How about installing the K&N 69-1017TTK Typhoon Intake Kits?

The one K&N designed especially for our Honda Fit GE?
Will it work fine or it still need to be tuned to work without any error code?
Thanks

 

BMW, go on ebay and buy denso 24 plugs for a K20, they work.

I have denso 22 spec plugs in my car and they work fine. colder plugs simply burn slightly colder. installing them on an otherwise stock motor simply makes it take slightly (SLIGHTLY!!) longer to warm up the motor. cruising performance may diminish slightly for this reason. my plugs are only one heat range colder, so they still do great everywhere, but I myself would hesitate to get denso 24s on my setup.

On this supercharger setup, it may be the ticket to making more power with less risk of detonation.


But I believe that would eventually lead to the same issues people are having when adding intakes to the supercharger kit, as the honda ecu is continually attempting to increase ignition advancement until it finds the boundary of detonation

 

You are already adding a device, this blower, which is magnitudes more effective.

The Open Loop WOT tune that comes from Sprintex is only going to be accurate in terms of VE, Fueling and appropriate Spark Advance for the air mass expected on a stock Fit.

Improving VE means more air.. leading to a leaner, more knock prone mixture on an already high comp motor.

Unless you will be compensating the tune for it, stick to stock bits outside of the kit.

 

The Sprintex kit does not come with spark plugs nor does it requires you to change to a colder set. Sprintex recommends NGK IZFR6K13 gapped set at factory specification.

I don't know about the Denso equivalent to the NGK. Buying NGK spark plugs is an old silly habit. I was actually looking for a set of colder NGK copper plugs and could not find them locally. Copper conductivity is better and can provide a strong spark than iridium but require frequent changes.

A supercharger compresses more air into the engine making the combustion chamber hotter. I use colder plug as a precaution to prevent hot spot on the plug. Heat is dissipated into the cylinder head more easily but a slightly hotter cylinder head with no pointed hot spots. Performance benefit was not the main reason.

 

Drove home on the highway... with it so empty, I took the opportunity to open up the Fit... and no limp! Which is actually the same thing as the night before, no issues going home.

hum....

 

Hit limp mode again...

I thought maybe i needed a warm up... So i used my remote start to warm it up for a 20 min session. A few minutes after it shut off, i restarted it again as i was almost ready to leave.

Took it pretty easy getting on the highway, got it up to fourth gear and shortly after 3k, it limped. I don't think i got to fourth gear before getting on the highway (lots of turns getting from home to highway).

All three times are in roughly the same location, at end of ramp or shortly after.

The consistency as to location is irking me... But i suppose at the same time, i might be relatively consistent too, getting into fourth gear around the same place. Hum.

 

Today 10 gallons filled up with 93 octane at Shell after burning the first tank full in 300 miles on the Sprintex supercharger. The first tank was a mixture of 3 gallons 87 octane, 1 gallon toluene and 6 gallons of 93. That is 30 miles per gallon. On average daily work commute I get about 33 miles per gallon with no horse playing.

My UltraGuage arrived today. I checked for DTC and there wasn't any. I am going to mounted UG on top of the steering column. The coolant temperature and the air temperature readings are very different between SMT8 and the UG.

 

Have you done a wide open throttle -pedal to the floor- run with ultragauge hooked up and noted the timing yet? Your symptoms sound exactly like what was happening to me at first. You knock and the ecu pulls timing. It pulls timing all the way down to 13.5 base timing @ 4k rpms. If it is still knocking once you reach the lowest threshold of 13.5, spark is cut and limp mode is activated. Misfire can also cause this. Really need AFR to properly diagnose.