Thanks for all the info fellas. I'll be contacting my tuner later on today since it's still early here.

Steven, yes lots of enthusiasts here get there cars modified the same day they take it out of the dealership. The guy I go to has new cars lined up for modification. Others don't even have the car yet and are calling him to get appointments already.

Wanderer, good to know that. Thanks for the info!

Once the car is sorted out, I'll be happy to share my info with others who are thinking of getting the sc especially with enthusiasts who don't have as much experience like me.

 

Soo.. What's the fueling situation?

If you have an exhaust or other VE mods it may be running leaner than the piggyback is expecting.

 

Wow DSM thanks for chiming in! I've read so much of your posts here. Really fantastic that you are here. I've contacted my tuner and waiting for his reply.

 

Except your situation didn't involve a piggyback.

There are plenty of Fit owners that have done similar mods with and without much fuss... Yet, without a piggyback.

You can't expect the same thing when you have a piggyback manipulating data.

On top of that, i'm pretty sure even ALL of those mods combined wouldn't have anywhere near the effect of even a low psi supercharger (or turbocharger).

As for Madman's setup... I couldn't tell you why his doesn't have the same issue. But considering he doesn't have a USDM Fit (and corresponding emissions requirement), that superchargers and turbochargers have been more readily available to non-USDM Fit could play a role.

 

I Email Fastbrakes and was told that I would not need any welding. Hmm . . . probably have to call them over the phone.

 

Everyone who's called, or emailed them got the same response... maybe they're unaware of the welded rear hub/splindle.
Check out Alpina's rear disc conversion thread, it's long, but it explains everything. https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...onversion.html

 

As long as I have been here, maybe longer, FitStir has been chasing a rear disc upgrade for GE8, and if the FastBrakes kit worked I think he'd have it already

There were a few Prototype solutions that didn't get off the ground due to cost, but I think as of right now using the whole RS rear beam is the only option if you want rear disc brakes.

 

Damn, I've earned that reputation?


Hehehe... it's not just the JDM rear, I've been chasing all those nice options every other country gets but us... the mods that haven't already been installed are in the works, except that smart key option (helllll no I aint trying that one) & panoramic skyroof w/electric shade, I like my real moonroof better.
probably a few others too



OP, there's a seller on ebay who's selling the JDM GE8 rear arm (from Europe), it's under $1,000 shipped to the US & comes with the rear discs, brake lines, etc, complete... afaik, no one's bought one from him yet, but that seems to be the least expensive route to a JDM rear arm w/discs. The other option is to buy/order/import from Japan. Buying from amayama trading would be less expensive.

 

Yes!

The skyroof is cool but IIRC it was quite a bit of work, someone tried to do it, I don't remember if it was you though.

Anyway

If it's $1k to ship the whole rear beam over that's probably worth it if it comes with the calipers and discs and all that already... you could sell your drum rear beam to recoup some of the cost as well... if you've got a sport model maybe one of the base guys will pick it up for the factory sway bar.

Wait this is OT twice because the thread is about superchargers...

 

This is my Email to Fastbrake and Hasty respond below with "As far as I know the bracket we make fits both gens of the Fit." Is that the respond most people got from Emailing FastBrakes?


Me To sales@Fastbrakes.com

Nov 5

Hi,

I have a 2nd generation 2009 Honda FIT sport and is interested in converting the rear drum to disk brake. On your website 2007-2011 Honda Fit rear drum to 11" disc conversion, there is only one item listed for 2007-2011 Honda Fit rear drum to 11" disc conversion. The 1st US generation of Honda FIT is between 2007 and 2008. 2nd generation is 2009 till present. There is difference between the drum setup between the 1st and 2nd generation. The 2nd generation has a welded flange but 1st generation does not. Is there any modification, cutting or grinding needed on the 2nd generation Honda FIT to install the FastBrakes Honda FIT rear drum to disc conversion?

Steven Hung

Reply, Reply All or Forward | More

hasty To Me

Nov 5

As far as I know the bracket we make fits both gens of the Fit.

 

No, no, no, no way.... I would never buy that cause it doesn't open, only the shade is retractable... anyways the member that bought that winded up selling it... I wonder if anyone USDM installed it.




Yes, back on topic...
Curious about that connection... and Hondata do you see this??? time for Flashpro, or at the very least Sprintex/Hondata reflash..

 

OK i'm in the Sprintex club! Mine showed up today, and I already have it on (4 hours so far)! Well most of it, still need to wire the piggyback and get the belt on. Hopefully get this thing running tomorrow. I have a PRM intake and a WR front pipe (the rest of the exhaust is stock).

Steven, Did you get your air box issue figured out? I think I might see what your problem is. The supercharger intake pipe's rear mounting point (the one with the two threaded holes) actually sits under the bracket. I had to loosen the bracket to fit it under.

 

Wow, that's pretty fast.

Um...

Goes under huh... that's interesting. But it does explain why Steven's picture of the stock manifold had the additional fittings for the two bolts in that spot (to securely thread something into plastic).

Finally decided to pull out my replica service manual for the GE to see if it shows... and it does indeed show that the the bracket mounts on top of the extended portion of the intake manifold.

Good to know.

Hum... does that mean Steven's inlet pipe wasn't secured at all?

edit: Speaking of... I stumbled across a price listing for the bypass actuator... $90?!? Oi!

 

I was able to bolt the inlet pipe rear bracket, the one with the two thread holes sitting from the top. It was a bitch trying to thread bolts through the two holes coming from the bottom. The lower one in the front I forgot about. I noticed that yesterday when I took it apart and I haven't put it back together yet. It needs to be switch around.

You and I might have very similar setup. I have an aj-racing down pipe/response header coming in probably by the end of the week. All the parts for my DIY short ram intake should also arrived by end of this week. Yesterday the Hitachi MAF sensor flange for LS3/LS7 Corvette arrived. It is a perfect fit for the Honda Fit MAF sensor. I still have the stock exhaust because of my hidden hitch. Otherwise I would have ordered a HKS hi power exhaust. I am considering gutting the inlet pipe restrictor and port matched with the throttle body before doing a re-tune for 93 octane. But I want to see how the car runs with the SRI intake and header. The car runs perfectly like stock with more HP/TQ. There is no cold start nor hot start problem. Load transition seems to be good. I just have to retest high load to abruptly lift off the throttle to see if resetting the ECU fixes it.

https://jonbondperformance.com/index...ia7ggr1kjs32a1 has only 1 in stock for $90 plus shipping. Sprintex has them as well.

 

Steven, Yes we will have a very similar setup. I actually have a HKS hi power sitting on the shelf because it was a bit to loud with the WR front pipe. I also like your plan to remove the restricter!

 

Does it the HKS hi-power with weapon r sound anything like this?
or this

 

From the sound of things---Steven Hung has his running. Anyone else?

 

Let's try this. It's a .txt cheat sheet for the wiring on the SMT8L into the Fit. Some wires are Tee'd, borrowing a stock ECU signal. Others intercept signals from the stock ECU.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...%20SMT%208.txt

 

I would say more like the first video, but revving up not under load is not very realistic. My exhaust with the HKS and WR sounded ok revving, but while accelerating and around 3500rpm there was a horrible rasp (embarrassing in a slow car ya know). I'm not positive but I suspect the stock resonator is being overwhelmed. For now I have the stock muffler on and the rasp is still there but tolerable.

Wiring is about wrapped up, but looks like im going to have to do some family stuff, so probably wont get it finished today. That and the back of my knees are killing me. Ha Ha

 

I am seriously thinking about doing a custom axle back exhaust using a Burns stainless steel single stage Ultra-Light Racing Muffler. The one I like is 2 ½” inlet/outlet diameter, body outer diameter is 3 ½”, 12” in length and weight about 1.77 lbs. I would prefer 2 ¾” but Burns stainless doesn’t make one in that size and 2 ½” is probably more than sufficient for no more than 200 HP. These mufflers can be repacked.