So from the small amount of driving you did after you installed then sc, you never got any misfiring issues? Never triggered limp mode or your car dying out?

 

Nope! There was no CEL, no cylinder misfire and no limp home. The engine hiccupped when I lifted abruptly off the throttle under load: rpm was climbing very quickly and I lifted off the gas. The engine jerked momentarily and hesitated for a brief moment before slowing. Gary told me to reset the ECU. I disconnected the battery for about 15 minutes then reconnected it. It has not reoccurred. I have not even attempt to do the relearn procedures.

The other warning that I got was from UltraGuage that I installed this past Saturday. I got an alarm several times from UltraGuage complaining about the maximum RPM should be 4000 but it is reading above 4120 or some value in that neighbor. Originally I had thought there is a problem with the car because of this alarm. I even check for DTC code with UltraGauge and found none. Following Gobbers’ advice I disabled most alarm with the exception of maximum engine temperature alarm. I have not seen the maximum RPM alarm any more. My other confusion was with the air temperature reading between SMT8L and UltraGauge. UltraGauge was showing the air intake temperature reading from the MAF sensor and the SMT8L was show the intake manifold temperature.

 

Yay, i triggered limp mode, TWICE. Well, it was back to back. I "restarted" quickly after the first limp, and almost imediately limped again.

This time, i was taking it easy (not much choice with traffic), sticking to the gears as long as possible... Got 2nd gear up to about 5k... Limp.

Incidentally, i was wrong about it holding rpm above 3k in limp. It does drop, but pretty slowly.

As for the wiring, as far as my friend and i can tell, we matched the instructions. Each of us checked and double checked before cutting (or in the case of "T," insultor removal).

The only wire we did question was red vs pink. WE assumed the "lighter shade" was pink.

 

Just yesterday (or 2 days ago),
me and another friend from this forum was talking about where we should take our car for install and tuning if/when we are ready to buy this Sprintex Kit,
and my friend advise me to just bring it to Church Automotive from the start
Never been to Church Automotive before though,
but I think I will follow his advise when the time come

 

Ha... I thought I was going blind with age. If you get the two wires confused, the SMT8L would not be running because of insufficient voltage or/and there could be damaged to the ECM and the coolant sensor.

 

I got my wires labeled. Hopefully this will help avoid any hiccups.

 

Hum.... My car died again, apparently i forgot to completely turn off my headlights (left it on the secondary lights).

Eventually, i got a chance to deal with it and got my car started (had to use my sister's van to do deliveries... Ewww). I didn't realize, but the RPM gauge wasn't moving... Only noticed it later when it suddenly flicked up to idle speed.

Hope it wasn't a sign of bad wiring or something.

 

I wasn't trying to offend you, but with all the "piggy back" problems owners are having it would be beneficial to have a better tuning option.


see this:



Look what Kraftwerks did with their GD3 supercharger kit w/the Hondata re-flash.


Also there is no Flashpro for the GE8 out, and even though we've showed plenty of interest, Hondata says there is none planned at the moment. By Sprintex doing a collaboration on the tuning aspect it would be beneficial to both companies and especially your customers. (No one's saying a 50-50 split on profits especially not on your hardware, just a collaboration on the software)

 

We're thick skinned. No offense taken or meant .

 

Piggybacks are awful, the only thing worse would be an S-AFC or an FMU and a one-way valve on the MAP sensor.. but it's not like there are other options at the moment.

I know there is someone out there clutching their S-AFC II shouting heresy, but the only way you are going to have your cake and eat it too with any actual modifications is through Flashing the OE ECU or a Standalone.

 

Will the AEM 30 1910 work on our GE8? This was a recommendation by Bisimoto to me. Though this was a quick question he asked directly from
AEM.

 

We have been using the AEM FIC-6 for a long time now, yes. But AEM has terrible support for their products, unless you are sponsored by them.

 

Thanks DSM! Didn't know they had terrible support.

 

You know what really sucks? Having a solution to a problem, but not being able to do anything about it.

I don't have an easy way to hook up to the piggyback, with my laptop dead. JOY!

 

You can always bring the SMT8L out of the cold for some TLC. It might get the tachometer to work. Do you see any rpm in UltraGauge or is it all 0?

 

Except for that hiccup and when i forgot to plug in the piggyback, the tach works fine (and UG reports the same thing the tach shows).

As for pulling the unit... I would, if it weren't so cold. The only way i can unplug the unit is to remove the cowl. Granted i was able to get to the unit by removing the battery to plug in a usb cable, but only with one hand. I'm not sure i can unplug it easily with one hand.

 

Okay guys I was going through my instructions and comparing them to the harness. At some point I look down and notice one of the pins was coming out of a connector for the piggyback. I pushed this pin back into the hole where it did not stay for long.

It seems as though this particular pin does not lock into the corrector like it should.

Could it be possible you guys are have pin(s) that are slipping out of the connector when you are plugging them into the piggyback?

Why don't you guys pull the piggyback and unplug the two connectors and see if any of them have lose pins? I know it's a long shot but I wanted to throw in my 2 cents in hopes to help any way I can.

 

Jonathan13, that is worth checking out... But for me, a massive pain in the derriere. Considering where its located.

I got the new map, and already its running different... Lets see if it translates to no limp (and whatelse). It was already a chore just getting my sister's laptop ready and connected.

~~~~~

edit:

Well... so far, it's interesting. my short and long trims are now almost consistently negative. before, my long would sit at about 10.16 (with or without SC)... now it's -7.8. I'm assuming that's because of the enriched mapping in the piggyback. the short however... WOW, varies from -12 all the way to 24. before it was maybe -3 or so up to 14. it's triple the swing.

After the SC install, it felt like it was idling a bit noisier than normal. But with the enriched map, while it might be placebo, it seems the engine is running a little quieter.

After a double jaunt on the highway (1st from work to get food, then 2nd was heading home). I didn't trigger limp. I know I definitely hit 4th gear and 5k. But need to wait until tomorrow to see if it's the same on the way to work.

I wonder if the car had been on the threshold of "too lean"... but the timing hadn't changed much. hum.

 

Sounds like you may be on your way to finally getting this figured out! Hopefully everything continues to go well with the new map.

 

Hey guys, What Mini USB cable are you guys using and how long does it need to be to reach the cabin? 6' enough or should I get a 10'?

Radio Shack has a 6' Mini to regular USB for $20. It kills me to spend that much on it seeing them on Amazon for $3, but I don't want to get a cable that ends up not working because I know some of you have tried cables that do plug in but will not communicate.