actually i think it might be an alignment issue, might loosen up some of the bolts on the new idler.

 

Supercharger is ordered!! First time installing one! It should be fun, I have been trying to learn as much as I can from this thread before it gets here so hopefully i will be able to get it all done right!

 

There are a few more condense versions of this thread. There is alot of good "lesson's" learned in this thread that has helped me tremendously!

The biggest one I found helpful was bracket alignment of the throttle body. Because I saw the error on here, it stuck out to me when I was putting mine together and I was able to get my throttle body and intake on perhaps as good as the was when it was STOCK!

I haven't finished my tuning just yet... so I am just waiting for everything to finalize before I post all of my experiences. But I am soooooo close!!! still working with the tuner, but I am RIGHT there at it.

 

Anyone have the P2647 Vtec rocker arm 1 code come up after install?


I've tried all the options I'm know of to try and get it to clear but it won't. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

I have looked up the code in the search engine and tried the suggested repairs, but no luck.

 

Well i got the supercharger all bolted up. I Could not get the broken screw that secures the MAP sensor on the supercharger manifold out. Might have to get a machine shop to help. Grade 12.9 screws are hard to drill.I just test drove it with the sensor plugged in but not screwed down. I don't know if that could cause any problems.

Any way, I'm having some problems with it stalling out. It seems to be kinda random but sometimes it happens after being on the throttle and then getting off of it. When i go to push the gas again it sputters and stalls and i get a misfire code for most cylinders. I checked the O2 sensor ( the AF ratio sensor NOT the post cat sensor) And it seems to be running super rich. ( the current is -1 to -2 milliamps ) The Short term fuel trim is over 40 and the long term between 2-7 ish. Anyone know what i could try to fix it? The car is idling around 680-715 RPM The weird thing is the Equivalence ratio on my scanner is showing the car LEAN. 1.3-1.999) I don't think the car is lean because all the o2 sensors are telling me its rich and I can smell fuel in the exhaust IM just confused now..

 

who is your tuner? Johnny's and I also had fuel trim issues and we both had to ask Kenny to adjust ours a little bit. It was literally the final stages of our tuning.

 

Hi, wonder if anyone can help me on this. I would like to know where to tap for boost readings on the Sprintex Supercharger? Currently I tried using the unused NPT nipple next to the actuator and it reads 0 at full boost on my boost gauge. And if you happen to know what fittings to use. Thanks.

 

There are two BSP (can’t remember the thread) sized plugged holes on the manifold you can use. I used a Pneumatic fitting.

 

Don't worry, i think it happens to everyone. but your supposed to install it here:


Me and my tuner couldn't figure out why it was reading 0 as well... and jonnyss reached out to me and and told me to move it over here as what I have shown in the picture. The stock one should be able to just go right in that hole that is already there.

 

Oh and another warning! don't use the stock screw to secure it. Because I made that mistake and it popped out one time when I cranked up the car. The thread is different and I had to use this plug kit that came with mine, I am not sure if it will be in your kit, but this is what comes with the supercharger kit if you ordered it with the SMT8:


Sprintex actually sent me the wrong kit... but I am kinda glad they did send me the wrong one because I actually ended up needing that screw.

 

Hi Vash, thanks for sharing but I can't see the image. Are you referring to the 2 plugged holes adjacent to the T-Map sensor on the manifold. I saw it on Page 49 of this thread posted by BMW Alpina.

Based on his response, they used a 1/4 BSPT to barb fitting. The barb end size they got was too big as most boost gauge vacuum hose has an ID of 4mm.

BTW, I followed your installation log and you have an awesome ride.

Thanks for helping me out.

 

I’m pretty sure this is the connector I used.

1/4" PT Male Thread 8mm Push in Joint Pneumatic Connector Quick Fittings 12 Pcs Ted Lele (8mm 1/4)

 

Ok yes, i checked page 49, we are talking about the same area. Just making sure you weren't putting it anywhere else as i think only that area would read boost in that area.

and just to make sure we are on the same page, here is another picture of where it should read boost, and I don't think i have showed people this picture before because iam pretty embarrassed about me taking some sand paper to the manifold to remove the stickers:

 

​​​​​Thanks for the info buddy. I have a question, does this fitting screw in all the way because I noticed that the BSPT which is tapered looks some what stops at one point and is not in all the way.

 

Sorry man, I can't see any of the pictures you posted. Am I the only one encountering this, if its just me then my apologies buddy.

However I can share this piece of information I got from Sprintex's technical guys yesterday and he quote "There is no determined spot for boost gauge on our systems. We don’t recommend tapping hole on manifold. However its up to the customer to pick a spot close to the T-MAP SENSOR(Ideally after T-MAP sensor hole from Intake) but keep in mind that doing so will cancel the warranty on the system.

Or else you can simply use a digital datalogger to show (and or log) Boost (difference between Baro and manifold pressure) which is the most accurate boost measurement as well as actual manifold pressure which takes altitude into account."

So the location is pretty much spot on.

 

Just an FYI, the 65 and 70 mm pulleys are both still available at Sprintex USA. I had to call and ask since their website doesn’t mention it at all. Another bit of info I got was that the GE8 supercharger is officially discontinued.

-Brian

 

Edit: Just called and ordered one.

Random nonsensical out of context rant:
Ive already rebuilt my SC once and even with lots of track days the bearings were fine. It only needed the plastic coupler replaced which failed prematurely allowing backlash and contact between the two shafts. Its a consumable part that does not appreciate high heat. the coupler actually looked 100% fine but clearly was soft enough to allow the the two aluminum hubs to contact each other.

I think the truth is you are rarely running at that RPM long. Even with the SC it runs out of breath up high I find.

Fit is down currently for a clutch and LSD might need that extra juice now for some non peg-leg burnouts.

 

Thats awesome that you got one! Thanks for that intel on the plastic coupler. My fit has been down for a bit with computer issues. Just needed the time to work on it. I haven’t rebuilt the SC yet, but I don’t have that many miles on it and no track days, so it might be a few before it’s needed. Definitely something to look at planning in the near future if I start driving it regularly again.

 

Already received 65mm pulley ($75), those guys dont fool around!

Guy I talked too said shipping would be "$2". I said I highly doubt that shipping prices have gone way up.
Was $17 to ship the words smallest box but, thats about right these days.

Now I cant wait to install it. Probably need a slightly smaller belt you think?

 

FYI,
If your supercharger leaks oil from the front snout there is a Viton seal that needs to be replaced.
Part was very hard to find but it is

25x40x7 MM Viton(fluro-rubber) seal with ss spring

Do NOT get the Nitrile rubber seal it will not hold up to the heat and oil.