Ah, you are using K-Tuner... that is why you have access to cranking fuel setting...........
hmmm...........

 

Manage to test the top end today.
Fill the tank with octane booster just to be safe,
with 4 people on board and trunk full of stuff,
on a safe area, manage to hit 0.65 bar (around 9.4psi) shown on my Defi boost gauge maximum with stock pulley.
Last time I glance I saw speed at 117mph shown on GPS (about 115mph on the speedometer), still slowly accelerating then a thunk sound and the car lose power momentarily, and I slow down right away,
I worry my engine blew up or something broken...
later I realize most likely it was the speed limiter...

Do our Honda Fit have speed limiter?
If yes, do you guys know at what speed is the speed limiter on our car?

 

KTuner also removes the speed limiter which is at 120.

 

Ah, 120 is the number... Thanks 07fit916...

by the way, I think I found the exact reason why it was hard to start my car,

today when I was at high elevation area (mountain), the car start so easy and so quick,
but when I came back at lower altitude area (near sea level),
the car begin to start harder again...

so this must mean at thinner air (higher altitude), the cranking setting have enough fuel so my car start easy...

while at normal altitude, (near sea level),
not enough fuel during start that is why it need longer time to start,...
and I see that the solution most likely is only K-Tuner
unless I can find a way to adjust this from my AEM F/IC-6 perhaps have a map point at lower rpm...
ok, got to research more about this...
one thing for sure, I can't remove the speed limiter without getting K-Tuner... oh well... another $450 then for K-Tuner ... maybe next year after Aquamist and Setrab...

 

What we found out was there was too much fuel during cranking with the RDX injectors and fuel pump. We couldn't get it to start nice as it would start around 400rpm then stall it self. Once we reduced the cranking fuel by 30% it would start normally.

 

I thought the stock pulley was good for ~8 psi. Do you remember what rpm you were at when you hit 9.4 psi? Were you at sea level or above sea level and what elevation? You Defi boost gauge is electrical and not mechanical. Is that right?

 

Hi Steven,

My Defi boost gauge is electronic with sensor near the Sprintex unit.
I bought the JDM version of this Defi boost gauge so it show BAR and not psi.
The reason I choose this gauge is because this is the only one that the maximum scale is only 1.2 bar and I know our Sprintex is low boost,
so with this 1.2 bar scale I can see the dial position more precisely vs if I buy the USDM psi one that goes to 29psi scale.
Having said that, it clearly show 0.65bar which translate to 9.4psi.

It was very hard to hit 9.4psi or 0.65bar.
Our Honda Fit have that funny dip if we keep holding our gas pedal at full throttle at high rpm, it would fall down a bit before it climb back to red line.
Well, I hit this 0.65 bar after that dip and the rpm went back up, so it must be somewhere very near the redline...
The elevation is around 410 ft (125 m) from sea level,
it was around 7pm (but still not dark). the outside temperature is no longer hot but still hover around 80degree F.

I might get to this pressure because I no longer have the restrictor on the intake elbow (just like yours right?) in addition I also POLISH the intake elbow.
I also had my throttle body bored out by maxbore, then port match with the intake elbow also by maxbore.
I do not have any 5th injector sticking into the intake elbow,
I also Port and also Polish the Sprintex lower intake manifold,
gasket port (enlarging the port) so it match the gasket of the engine block.
there are quite a lot of material that I took out from the lower intake manifold
here is the pictures of before and after:





and last,
I have a Mugen CR-Z intake airbox with the snorkel right behind the top plastic radiator cover where it have that slit opening that feed cold air from the front grill scoop.
so it must help give some kind of ram air effect there at top speed.

that is all I can think of why I manage to hit 0.65 bar...

 

I forgot your # how is the seat working out you picked up from me.....have some questions for you .

pm me please.

 

The Sprintex Original Blocking Plate that I order just arrived from Proreka Sprintex Malaysia by FedEx today.
This is the same parts that came with hardware only kit and it fit better than my current modified K-Tuned MAP blocking plate.

 

Water injection from the BMW M4 GTS is coming to the mass market - Autoblog

 

The M4 GTS water injection system is cool. In event of water injection system failure it can communicate to the PCM to bleed off boost and be more aggressive in retarding timing. The system draining back to the 5 liters tank when engine is turn off is very nice touch for colder climate. No need to worry about water freezing in the injection tube. I wonder when Porsche will follow suit in their turbocharged 911 and Cayman.

It would be nice if KTuner can be setup in the event when the water injection system failed to accept an input signal to limit RPM and be more aggressive in retarding timing.

http://www.m-power.com/_open/s/varli...d=3301&lang=en

 

Sprintex Original MAP Blocking Plug install,
It feel and fit more snug, also it have much larger body so it cover almost
all the of the flat face on the MAP sensor opening better which should help
prevent any micro leak better.

Before with K-Tuned MAP port plug:




After Sprintex OEM MAP Blocking Plate:




Of course as usual, I apply Toyota Rubber Grease on the O-Ring before install to make sure they are not teared, then use little bit of loctite and also locking ring on the bolt to make sure they won't get loose with vibration from the supercharger

 

118/113 is from last week when i went to get some dyno pulls to see how my etune would do on a dyno.
150/122 was the final.

 

I bought this long FACOM (Made in France) Round Hex tools because I worry I will scratch my black paint on the Sprintex Supercharger, I will need to take out some of the hex bolt because I need to fix my Big 3 wiring and the bracket for it is attached to the 3 round hex bolt on the Sprintex...



I also bought this drill bits together with the Facom tools above so it qualify me for free shipping...
this drill bits will be used to drill the Sprintex Intake Elbow and tap the thread needed for the Aquamist Injector
someday when I bought the Aquamist Water/Methanol Injection System







oh,
also check out my Setrab Oil Cooler and SPAL Extra Fan DIY thread just started here:
www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-gen-ge8-specific-fit-engine-modifications-motor-swaps-ecu-tuning-sub-forum/94203-project-setrab-oil-cooler-plus-spal-radiator-fan.html

This should help keep our engine cool even with Sprintex smaller pulley,
of course Aquamist is still needed, but that is next

 

Hi Steven.

Been following your posts. Bought a GE8 and looking to squeeze out every possible horsepower out. Please message me on whatsapp +233245896446. I need some advice from you. Thanks.

 

Hi Steven,

Have you install your Aquamist system?
Please kindly update on the progress and possibly a DIY
I really want to learn from your experience with Aquamist
Thanks

 

I always feel the fuel line supplied by Sprintex is kinda flimsy, especially the fitting (which I manage to broke the clip)...
so I order a Goodridge 910 Aramid Fiber (Kevlar) lightweight hose along with Goodridge 811 FORGED Fitting both in 6AN size that arrives today

 

Any of you guys had issues with P0172 Fuel system too rich? I have had it pop up a couple times. I have noticed my STFT around -10 and LTFT around -15. They were less than 3 combined after I e-tuned with Turbogixxer, so something has changed. I have replaced the RDX injectors, MAF, sparkplugs ,and confirmed the fuel pressure is OK. The only thing I have not tried yet from the FSM is adjusting the valves, but the car only has 48K? Also car runs great?

 

Could it be because the ambient temperature in your area is getting colder compare to when you tune your car with TurboGixxer?

Either that or perhaps the MAP sensor or Primary O2 sensor need replacement...?

Came to think of it,... could the MAP sensor deteriorate because it is being used to measure pressure far higher than what it was originally intended for?

 

^ Probably not the weather. The original tune was actually done this time last year. I do have an extra MAP sensor I could try. Worth a shot.

Something else I have noticed ever since I switched to the Ktuner is that my STFT maxes out at -31.2 when I am at idle? Anybody see that?