Sprintex Supercharger Install
I installed the orange silicone o-ring this morning. There are no more leaks from the inlet. Every time the inlet is removed I will replace the o-ring. High short term fuel trims at idle is one symptom of inlet pipe leaking. My short fuel trim at idle with a leaky inlet pipe was around 46.

This is a picture with the Harbor Freight o-ring. The Harbor Freight o-ring has been stretched so much that you cannot see it any more.


This is a picture with the Harbor Freight o-ring. The Harbor Freight o-ring has been stretched so much that you cannot see it any more.

Where did you bought the BS229 O-Ring from?
I see some vendor on eBay but do you know any other source beside that?
Thanks
I got impatient and had my mechanic install the supercharger with the new PnP harness. It's bolted up but....
i'm having issues with the plug and play harness....
With everything installed, start the car, limp mode instantly and check eng code is P2647. After swapping the vtec switch and the car still has that issue even after doing a ckp reset with HDS.
My mechanic traced some of the wire down from the vtec solenoid and he suspects the pins may be wrong as there is nothing from intermediate harness to the ecu from the vtec solenoid.
He connected the car back to stock and the car started fine with no check engine light.
Soo i'm thinking maybe i got the wrong PnP harness? Does anyone have pinouts of the new PnP harness? maybe it would be a simple re-routing of the wires.
And we've manage to break the nipple on the bypass valve. Is VA764A the correct one to order? is there one with a metal nipple on the valve?
i'm having issues with the plug and play harness....
With everything installed, start the car, limp mode instantly and check eng code is P2647. After swapping the vtec switch and the car still has that issue even after doing a ckp reset with HDS.
My mechanic traced some of the wire down from the vtec solenoid and he suspects the pins may be wrong as there is nothing from intermediate harness to the ecu from the vtec solenoid.
He connected the car back to stock and the car started fine with no check engine light.
Soo i'm thinking maybe i got the wrong PnP harness? Does anyone have pinouts of the new PnP harness? maybe it would be a simple re-routing of the wires.
And we've manage to break the nipple on the bypass valve. Is VA764A the correct one to order? is there one with a metal nipple on the valve?
I got impatient and had my mechanic install the supercharger with the new PnP harness. It's bolted up but....
i'm having issues with the plug and play harness....
With everything installed, start the car, limp mode instantly and check eng code is P2647. After swapping the vtec switch and the car still has that issue even after doing a ckp reset with HDS.
My mechanic traced some of the wire down from the vtec solenoid and he suspects the pins may be wrong as there is nothing from intermediate harness to the ecu from the vtec solenoid.
He connected the car back to stock and the car started fine with no check engine light.
Soo i'm thinking maybe i got the wrong PnP harness? Does anyone have pinouts of the new PnP harness? maybe it would be a simple re-routing of the wires.
And we've manage to break the nipple on the bypass valve. Is VA764A the correct one to order? is there one with a metal nipple on the valve?
i'm having issues with the plug and play harness....
With everything installed, start the car, limp mode instantly and check eng code is P2647. After swapping the vtec switch and the car still has that issue even after doing a ckp reset with HDS.
My mechanic traced some of the wire down from the vtec solenoid and he suspects the pins may be wrong as there is nothing from intermediate harness to the ecu from the vtec solenoid.
He connected the car back to stock and the car started fine with no check engine light.
Soo i'm thinking maybe i got the wrong PnP harness? Does anyone have pinouts of the new PnP harness? maybe it would be a simple re-routing of the wires.
And we've manage to break the nipple on the bypass valve. Is VA764A the correct one to order? is there one with a metal nipple on the valve?
There are only two pins that are intercepted by the piggyback (the other 4 connections are T's), MAF (connector B pin31) and CKP (connector C pin32) . All the other wires on the harness should be straight through connections, so you should be able to test them all for continuity. The older versions of the Sprintex install manuals include this information (back when we had to splice all this stuff). Good luck.
Sounds like you have had a bit of bad luck. Even though I have not used the new PnP harness, assuming it still has the same connections as the old style spliced in harness. Maybe I can shed some light on the subject.
There are only two pins that are intercepted by the piggyback (the other 4 connections are T's), MAF (connector B pin31) and CKP (connector C pin32) . All the other wires on the harness should be straight through connections, so you should be able to test them all for continuity. The older versions of the Sprintex install manuals include this information (back when we had to splice all this stuff). Good luck.
There are only two pins that are intercepted by the piggyback (the other 4 connections are T's), MAF (connector B pin31) and CKP (connector C pin32) . All the other wires on the harness should be straight through connections, so you should be able to test them all for continuity. The older versions of the Sprintex install manuals include this information (back when we had to splice all this stuff). Good luck.
I sent an email to Gary, he mentioned he's heard of my issue before and told me to try this, i'll give this a whirl tomorrow. Hopefully it fixes it.
I have heard of this before, but have not worked on it with my own two hands. There’s a wire out of place on the harness, I think. The last guy had to hard wire it to the body harness.
It was the green connector.
Connector C ( Cirlce) 49 Pin
Terminal 22
Blue Wire
It was the green connector.
Connector C ( Cirlce) 49 Pin
Terminal 22
Blue Wire
I just bought a Hose Barb Reducer because I realize
the Forged Steel Adapter Fitting 90 Deg 1/4 BSPT BSP Male - 5/16" Hose Barb C12-2
Kinugawa Barb Fitting that I bought have 5/16" Barb Outside Diameter,
while my Defi Turbo Boost Gauge hose is only 4mm Internal Diameter.
so I bought 4 type of Stainless Steel CNC Machine Reducer,
because I don't really sure which size will fit better since their sizing
is not exactly 5/16" nor 4mm...
turn out the right reducer is the 5/32" vs 3/8"
I also bought some industrial grade Teflon Tape.
Here are the pictures:

the Forged Steel Adapter Fitting 90 Deg 1/4 BSPT BSP Male - 5/16" Hose Barb C12-2
Kinugawa Barb Fitting that I bought have 5/16" Barb Outside Diameter,
while my Defi Turbo Boost Gauge hose is only 4mm Internal Diameter.
so I bought 4 type of Stainless Steel CNC Machine Reducer,
because I don't really sure which size will fit better since their sizing
is not exactly 5/16" nor 4mm...
turn out the right reducer is the 5/32" vs 3/8"
I also bought some industrial grade Teflon Tape.
Here are the pictures:

After careful consideration,
I decided to return the AEM Water/Methanol Injection Kit that I bought from Amazon.
I think I will stick with just 4 larger RDX injector, remove the 5th injector
use the AEM F/IC-6
and also buy a Ventilated Hood to help cool the engine bay temperature.
I know that I need to have it tune more conservatively,
but the risk of a water/methanol injector failure causing engine hydrolock
is too big for me.
My goal is to have a car with more reasonable power than stock,
but not going to aim for maximum available power.
I also decide to stick with stock pulley for obvious reason.
oh well, better stay safe since this is a daily drive
I decided to return the AEM Water/Methanol Injection Kit that I bought from Amazon.
I think I will stick with just 4 larger RDX injector, remove the 5th injector
use the AEM F/IC-6
and also buy a Ventilated Hood to help cool the engine bay temperature.
I know that I need to have it tune more conservatively,
but the risk of a water/methanol injector failure causing engine hydrolock
is too big for me.
My goal is to have a car with more reasonable power than stock,
but not going to aim for maximum available power.
I also decide to stick with stock pulley for obvious reason.
oh well, better stay safe since this is a daily drive
She's alive!
Thanks to Gary's and Jibbers tips it's installed. Had to run the vtec switch wire from the PnP harness to the chassis harness.
Now to the to next thing....We didn't have a way to drain the gas, soo we did a half 87, half 93 and 2 bottles of octane booster. I wanted to get some toluene but the paint store was closed.
With some light pulls it runs good, no pings (that we could hear) then until we come to a stop and get a check light for EGR p2413. Anyone have this issue?
We clear it and repeat some pulls and it pops back up. I searched and saw nothing except a guy with a Kraftwerks kit on his GD. He mentioned it might be car too rich?
Next step is to get a bung installed and get some wideband readings and some dyno action!
Thanks to Gary's and Jibbers tips it's installed. Had to run the vtec switch wire from the PnP harness to the chassis harness.
Now to the to next thing....We didn't have a way to drain the gas, soo we did a half 87, half 93 and 2 bottles of octane booster. I wanted to get some toluene but the paint store was closed.
With some light pulls it runs good, no pings (that we could hear) then until we come to a stop and get a check light for EGR p2413. Anyone have this issue?
We clear it and repeat some pulls and it pops back up. I searched and saw nothing except a guy with a Kraftwerks kit on his GD. He mentioned it might be car too rich?
Next step is to get a bung installed and get some wideband readings and some dyno action!
^You should definitely consider getting only the SC hardware from Sprintex and going with Ktuner for engine management. Just wait a bit until we get this P2227 CEL figured out. If you go with the Ktuner you will need bigger injectors. Also a tune from Turbogixxer would be a great idea. The SMT8L piggy back that comes with the kit is difficult to install, tune, and is unreliable.
Boostedtaco, I don't recall anyone here having that EGR error, assuming that the valve is installed correctly and connected, my first suspicion would be that PnP harness.
A part of me says, i should of went K-tuned and etc....oh well.
By design the Sprintex manifold can block of the ERG valve with the addition of some grub screws. There is info in one of the manuals on this. But electronically I don't think there is a solution, other than Ktuner.
I had the mechanic check out the egr wiring, swap in another egr valve and it still trips that code. Even without boost.
Meanwhile, the car is fun. super peppy. I'll go get it dyno'd to check AFR's and maybe fiddle with the tune.
My Intake Manifold Gasket just arrived,
so I can compare the diameter of the gasket
vs. Sprintex Intake Manifold Outlet.
It looks like the left and right outlet had more material
to be ported,
while the 2 center one have less material to be ported.
Still undecided which porting service I would use...
will do more research before I decide...




so I can compare the diameter of the gasket
vs. Sprintex Intake Manifold Outlet.
It looks like the left and right outlet had more material
to be ported,
while the 2 center one have less material to be ported.
Still undecided which porting service I would use...
will do more research before I decide...




I got the repair kit but have not installed it. Everything seems to be working
fine since I redid my pins and wires with dialectic grease.
There is a DTC P0171 issue that I need to track down. DTC P0171 would pop up daily for lean condition in bank 1 with my custom intake. Since reverting back to the stock air box I would occasionally see P0171. This happens with a new NTK A/F sensor from RockAuto.
fine since I redid my pins and wires with dialectic grease.
There is a DTC P0171 issue that I need to track down. DTC P0171 would pop up daily for lean condition in bank 1 with my custom intake. Since reverting back to the stock air box I would occasionally see P0171. This happens with a new NTK A/F sensor from RockAuto.
Hi Steven,
Do you find out what causing this P0171 error code ?
I am currently experiencing it occasionally now...
I am using Mugen Air Box (come with large K&N filter inside) for a few months never had problem,
and recently I just install custom 2 1/4 exhaust and initially no problem
but recently I got P0171 error code...
I am not sure whether the custom exhaust might have something to do with it or not...
because I worry my custom resonator which sometimes scrapped a speedbump would actually drag the T1R down pipe and causing it to crack on the weld or something like that that create leak before the first O2 sensor, but at the same time I don't hear any noise like a leak down pipe would...
so it might be just related to MAF sensor dirty or loose connection on the intake/vacuum hose somewhere...
but I am curious on how you solve your P0171 error code.
Please advise, Thanks
I've just went through a tank of 93 and the gas mileage is umm...less than desirable. haha. How's everybody else's MPG? is K-tuner setup better?
31 mpg with 90%+ highway, average speed of 70 cruise control set, and light boost for merges. Not sure if its due to the EGR check light i get occasionally.
If anyone is going to use the PnP harness, i'd check the vtec and egr wiring. I suspect the EGR is PnP related.
31 mpg with 90%+ highway, average speed of 70 cruise control set, and light boost for merges. Not sure if its due to the EGR check light i get occasionally.
If anyone is going to use the PnP harness, i'd check the vtec and egr wiring. I suspect the EGR is PnP related.
Hi Steven,
Do you find out what causing this P0171 error code ?
I am currently experiencing it occasionally now...
I am using Mugen Air Box (come with large K&N filter inside) for a few months never had problem,
and recently I just install custom 2 1/4 exhaust and initially no problem
but recently I got P0171 error code...
I am not sure whether the custom exhaust might have something to do with it or not...
because I worry my custom resonator which sometimes scrapped a speedbump would actually drag the T1R down pipe and causing it to crack on the weld or something like that that create leak before the first O2 sensor, but at the same time I don't hear any noise like a leak down pipe would...
so it might be just related to MAF sensor dirty or loose connection on the intake/vacuum hose somewhere...
but I am curious on how you solve your P0171 error code.
Please advise, Thanks
Do you find out what causing this P0171 error code ?
I am currently experiencing it occasionally now...
I am using Mugen Air Box (come with large K&N filter inside) for a few months never had problem,
and recently I just install custom 2 1/4 exhaust and initially no problem
but recently I got P0171 error code...
I am not sure whether the custom exhaust might have something to do with it or not...
because I worry my custom resonator which sometimes scrapped a speedbump would actually drag the T1R down pipe and causing it to crack on the weld or something like that that create leak before the first O2 sensor, but at the same time I don't hear any noise like a leak down pipe would...
so it might be just related to MAF sensor dirty or loose connection on the intake/vacuum hose somewhere...
but I am curious on how you solve your P0171 error code.
Please advise, Thanks
It was cause by the leak on the rubber gasket between the Throttle body and the Mugen AirBox,
due to the tight space, the battery was bumping and pushing the airbox slanted creating a slight leak on the rubber gasket at the inlet of the throttle body.
adjust the mounting and make some custom spacer to the 2 mounting point to further secure the airbox and also tightened the battery holder.
Hopefully this will not happened again


