I have two different set of manuals, 244D001 Rev 1.00 and 244D1005 Rev 1.00. 244D1005 Rev 1.00 is the original installation manual packaged with the Supercharger kit. The supercharger lubrication service is at 40,000 KM or 2 years which ever is earlier. However 20041001 Rev 1.00, the installation manual that I downloaded states 20,000 KM or 2 years which ever is earlier. Redline 75W/90NS oil quantity is different as well. 50 ml is needed according to 244D1005 Rev 1.00. 70 ml is needed according to 20041001 Rev 1.00. Since the 2 quarts of Redline 75W/90NS arrived from JEGS today, I will change the oil this weekend.

Kind of cool that Sprintex is making the kit easier to install without having to hack the factory harness. I hope that Sprintex sell enough of these kits to proof there is a market for Honda Fit performance parts. Hondata Flashpro would be nice addition. A better clutch selection and perhaps an 11 lb lighten flywheel that doesn’t trigger limp home.

My only complain that I have with the Sprintex supercharger is quick tire wear. OEM tire lasted ~70,000 miles under the normal aspirated motor. The current Bridgestone EP100 195/55R16 with the Sprintex supercharger has about ~46,000 miles. I have a set of Michelin Pilot Sport AS3 205/50R16 coming. Michelin has a $70 promotional rebate on these tires and some others. I wonder how long the Michelin tires last with the 4.928 final drive gear that I will installing during Christmas vacation.

 

i hope sprintex can post some better pics of this new harness. would really not like to hack my wire harness and screw everything up.

 

x2

Well, I'm definitely glad they're continuing to develop this. Will be following the updates.

 

I just talk to Gary on the phone few minutes ago,
he said he should have this new plug and play system early next year,
and he think it should be around $2,995.
and it still the same supercharger and pulley so it will still make the same horsepower but fully plug and play.
Time for me to really set aside special Supercharger Fund then

 

Finally changed my engine and SC oils today... the engine oil was pretty dark and the SC oil was... milky?!?

My guess is... I overfilled and it was froth or something cause as it settled in the catcher I used, it cleared up into just plain dark oil. I had just turned the car around and moved it up the driveway, closer to the garage.

I didn't have an easy time at it either (not until near the end)... couldn't figure out how to correctly measure and fill the oil. Eventually, I decided to look for the ounce cup (2 oz is 59 ml!), the kind that is actually two cups (flip over for different amount), but I couldn't find it. My mom mentioned using one of the regular drinking cups since it measured 8 oz. After I used water to gauge how much water 2 oz would be (fill cup, divide in half, twice), I noticed a 'to go' sauce container... with 59 ml marked on it. =.="

Anyway, after some fussing about with tubes and other containers, I finally realized that I could use the dip stick in the SC by pouring slowly along it and using it to guide the oil into the hole.


So I put a new bolt with one of the Honda crush washers I hadn't been using for a while since I'm using the valve for the engine drain, as the SC drain bolt... filled the cup, shoved the dip stick in the fill hole and slowly poured the oil... took a while since pouring too fast would cause it's to back up and out of the drain hole (which I later learned was because the dip stick wasn't deep enough). Finally, finished up with another bolt and washer for the fill hole. It ain't pretty, but better than using a ton of PTFE tape (which was left shredded everywhere!).

By the way, I used these bolts:
Draper 05532 Draper Spare Bolt M13 X 1.25 For 24014


Fits damn near perfectly!!!! Only issue is the massive bolt head. >.<

~~~~~

Update 12/16/14: since I didn't use any PTFE tape, I did find a leak... Tiny little bit coming from the bolt for the dipstick. The two bolts/washers I'm using didn't show any indication of a leak.

So, not sure if I should try to tighten it more and hope it seals or just wrap some tape on it. Hum, maybe I can add an O-ring...*.*?

 

Have any of you guys replaced spark plugs with the SC installed? Most of the plugs look easy to access except the one under the SC intake elbow. Can anyone confirm it can be replaced without removing the elbow?

I replaced the gear oil recently too. I tried to use a syringe to extract the old oil, but it was too difficult to get a tube into the lowest part of the oil reservoir. A syringe sure makes it easy to refill precisely though. A bit of plumbers thread sealer is a good idea for replacing the fill/drain plugs too.

 

The thing about the tape was... it got EVERYWHERE once it starts shredding.

When I pulled the original fill bolt out, almost none of the tape, that I put, came up with it. Some was stuck to the edge of the opening so I was able to get to it... but pretty sure plenty of it mixed in the oil and got shredded even more by the gears inside.

As for the spark plugs, while I can't confirm it... I did grope around shortly after installing the SC and it seemed like, while it was a little bit of a reach, it should clear the SC parts. Cause if you think about it, the SC parts only cover part of where the original intake manifold is, and the process for changing spark plugs doesn't mention NEEDING take out the manifold (though it does give you more room to work with).

The extra injector does stick out a bit, but should be able to work around it.

 

Not tape.... This stuff:

 

Is that a good idea with oil?

 

How about Hondabond HT?

 

Here is a little heads up for my fellow supercharged friends. Looks like Ktuner might be willing to work with our platform to develop a tuning solution!
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...ml#post1283053

Pass it on, show some interest.

 

Messaged them already and offered the vehicle to help with development if they're interested.

 

KTuner could be really cool if it goes to fruition and there is support for forced induction. I could ditch the SMT8L, get rid of the Bosch auxiliary fuel injector, upgrade the stock fuel injectors to larger one and install a water/methanol injection system. My current setup with the SMT8L works fine but I would like something more integrated with the factory ECU. The SMT8L is another point of failure. I have been eying water/methanol injection system from AEM and Snow Performance. W/M injection system would be installed and independently tune for boost afterward. Gary would 50/50 water/methanol misting in a pre-compressor setup be an issue for the Sprintex compressor? KTuner could be another cool tuning option for our Sprintex supercharged cars.

 

Today I finally got around to changing the charger oil. The spent oil is just darker in color. Chefmate flavor injector is perfect for the job. Just don’t attach the needle. You can measure how much oil to use and injected into the filler hole. No mess!!!

 

Ever since I did my valve adjustment my car has not been running at 100%. Several weeks after the valve adjustment I started to see fuel cap problem, EVAP DTC and lately DTC for running lean. Initially I thought it was the fuel cap. Swapping a new fuel cap did nothing. This past Monday I revamped the EVAP system with new a canister, a vent shut solenoid and a purge control solenoid. Problems still persist after swapping in the new parts. Finally I track it down to the leaking inlet pipe. Smoke from burning incense was being suck in past the o-ring into the inlet pre-compress charger at idle. I then realized the harbor freight o-ring that I was using wasn’t the proper size. O-ring correct size is BS229: 59.92 mm ID x 3.53mm. Here are several o-ring made from different material: Vitron, Nitrile and silicone. Bottom o-ring is nitrile and improperly sized. One of these o-ring will be installed tomorrow morning and hopefully it should solve my problem. My car is a daily beater averaging around 20K miles annually, I will be adding a silicone reducer coupler from eBay. Yeah, I have driven 20K miles on the Sprintex supercharger.

 

So the HF o-ring was stretching too thin?

I put about as many miles on mine too...

 

Yah Been There!

I have had this issue twice now. Both times I lubed the Oring liberally with silicone grease, The issue occurs because there is some movement of the inlet tube from Throttle body into the SC housing, (expansion/contraction and vibrations).

I wrapped the outside of the connection with rubber eclectically splicing tape and put a SS header wrap tie on for good measure temporarily.
I plan on taking a sawzall to the tube and making the connection with a 3"-3.5" silicone coupler for a permanent fix.

 

I made a DIY Water Meth injector system using the stock washer tank and the rear washer line. I have a switch so I can use the front washers as normal but when meth injection is on its disabled. The system is triggered using an analog output from the FIC6 to a solidsate relay for pump, based on RPM/Boost.

I wanted to use the unused 5th injector port but found the port is very deep and injector nozzle would need to be mounted inside the elbow so for now its mounted pre-throttle body not ideal for atomization but actually takes the issue of the vacuum sucking the fluid out of the line when not being triggered. This was only an issue because the solenoid I had ordered was faulty and I has heading to track a few days after I set it up.

I decided to use Ethanol (Denatured, sold as stove fuel at hardware stores or from your local moonshiner). Ethanol has better cooling properties and is less corrosive from my research.
I found that no tuning changes were required at the volume I was running, but if your trying to maximize power you probly want to add timing ect.. when under meth eth injection. Im simply using it for cooling and to add a safety margin under high load and at the track These things run HOT .

 

I installed the orange silicone o-ring this morning. There are no more leaks from the inlet. Every time the inlet is removed I will replace the o-ring. High short term fuel trims at idle is one symptom of inlet pipe leaking. My short fuel trim at idle with a leaky inlet pipe was around 46.

This is a picture with the Harbor Freight o-ring. The Harbor Freight o-ring has been stretched so much that you cannot see it any more.

 

I ordered one of these from ebay and see if this would fix the problem more permanently. The reducer coupler will be used in conjunction with the o-ring.