Originally Posted by Goobers

Yeah, the pic "with" the HF O-ring shows it just like NO ring.

Hum... is there something going on with that brown discoloration?

Originally Posted by slimchriz

That is normal. It is from the Crankcase ventilation into intake. I built and installed a catch-can. With forced induction you get allot more oil vapor in the intake due to increase temperatures and blowby.

Research crankcase ventilation and catch cans .

Originally Posted by Steven Hung

I went for nice test drive this morning and was up in triple digits. Car felt good and very strong. The only vibration I could hear is from my short ram air intake. I need to find another brace point instead of the transmission mount.

The intent is to use it for cooling with a fine mist of 50/50 water and methanol. During central Florida hot and humid summer sitting in traffic I could see the intake temperature on my UltraGauge climb to around 135° with A/ C on full blast. So I am eagerly waiting for KTuner.

Originally Posted by Steven Hung

I brought directly from Sprintex. Gary at Sprintex USA shipped it out from Oklahoma. You might have to order it from dealers.

Originally Posted by jibberjabbs

Gary at Sprintex directed me to Jon Bond. No issues.

Originally Posted by Goobers

Today... I got my Fit back, 2 weeks to the day of getting it towed... which was a day (or was it 2 days?) after snapping an axle.

I took a bunch of pictures, but my phone bugged out and deleted anything recent. I don't feel like going out to take more pictures. Luckily, I had sent two of them to my friend in a chat program so I was able to recall those two.




Apparently, the axle has something called a "balancer" on it (that rubber covering)... and that's where it snapped.

My current theory is... it cracked during my road trip (July '11) when that side slammed into the ground because my front wheel went off the pavement when I didn't turn sharp enough. After that, around spring of last year (maybe Mar '14), I got a lot of water under that rubber and it got weaker from there.

Having the supercharger from the preceding Christmas/New Year (Dec '13/Jan '14) just sped up the eventual destruction.

So, I don't think it was a simple/quick catastrophic failure... but a cascade of events starting from the road trip. But it's just a theory.

I had the mechanic do a transmission and clutch fluid change since those were overdue... and while he was at it, to inspect the fluid being drained in case there were any metal in it to indicate a failure. He didn't see anything in the fluids and they otherwise seem fine.

It might not be -40 around Chicagoland... but it's f-ing cold enough. I'm tired of this shit.

Originally Posted by Steven Hung

I just started my installation tonight on my 2009 Honda Fit Sport with 97K on the odometer. Spark plugs have been changed to one step colder NGK.

• NGK BRK 7EIX-11 gapped ~ 1.2 mm
• wire loom

Here are my injectors almost like new back from Boost Lab after cleaning and flow tested. Fuel atomization with a fine mist spray pattern is important. Notice the injectors flow rate after clean is nearly identical. I will eventually have to change the fuel filter in the fuel pump. Honda does not sell the fuel pump fuel filter separately. AirTex does not sell the fuel stainer nor do they offer a high flow version of this fuel pump, E8943M.


Stripped engine bay. Now is a good time to remove the fuel line between the fuel rail and the hard fuel line feed at the firewall. It will be replaced with new fuel line that supply fuel to the extra injector and the fuel rail.


Modified injector harness with wire loom. The injector harness is tucked between the oil cover pan and the injectors not between the injector and the supercharger.


Bottom half of the supercharger. Please note the EGR is mounted almost in the same OEM location. I believe Sprintex decision to retain the EGR is the correct one. Federal law prohibit tampering with emission control devices. Eventually when the EGR valve becomes useless with age I will block it off and deal with the engine light. The EGR valve in my 20 years old 93 MR2 Turbo was rusted and clogged with no replacement to be found. I eventually used a block off plate. By the time I installed the blocked off plate I was running a standalone AEM EMS.


Sprintex Supercharger top half. Don't tighten the bolts until you fit the intake pipe. It is also much easier to install the supplementary injector onto the intake pipe first. You will have to be careful with the fuel line hanging loose on the intake pipe.


Restrictor that attaches to the inlet pipe. The supplement fuel injector mounts in the back. I apply heavy motor oil on the o-ring to make it easier to slip into the inlet pipe.


The throttle mounts at this end.


Started to work on the wiring. I had to desolder the wire on the left most connector, connect 10. The installation manual say to "T" into Light Green wire at pin 2 as viewed from the wire side of the 13 pin connector, with Blue wire (spliced to Blue/White from supp. fuel injector plug) of supplement controller. Photo has the Blue/white wire which is wrong. I had to go back and fix it. There isn't too much room to work when dealing with connector 13 and connector 14. I found it much easier to just extended wires from them. Connector 13 and connector 14 are on the lower right hand corner.


All wiring are done and loomed for a nice tidy look.


Stock air box installed and attached to throttle body. Notice how higher the air box sits by looking at the air box mount point. Two custom brackets are needed. One of each side of the air box. The hose clamp hex screw that tightens around the throttle body is 5.5 mm which is a strange size. I rarely use my 5.5 mm socket.


Supercharger pulley with belt. A 19 mm wrench on the belt tensioner. You can use a second wrench for leverage if you are not stronger enough pushing the 19 mm wrench toward the front of the car. Before closing everything I rotate the crank clockwise several times to check for belt alignment.


Everything is installed. I replaced the original bypass actuator that I broke with a new piece from Gary. There are two map sensor mount on the air box above the positive battery terminal. The 3 bar map sensor has a red vacuum hose connect to it. Another 1 bar map sensor is behind the 3 bar map sensor use for atmosphere pressure and doesn't require a vacuum connection. Out of habit I attached a very short vacuum hose and point the hose downward to prevent water from dipping into the sensor. The SMT is mounted with double side tape on the other side of the factory ECU. Before mounting the SMT you might want to connect an USB cable. It would be very difficult to do it later. I got a 6 feet USB cable. Hopefully it should be enough to reach the cabin.


Here is the plastic bypass actuator, VA764A with the broken nipple.


Overall in my opinion the quality of the kit is good value for the money. I have two minor issues with the kit.

• Honda OEM air box sit too high requiring new brackets to be made
  - Give me an excuse to chuck it for a new intake
• Wiring harness to the right of the dip stick cannot be mount using the original bracket
  - zip tie is the simplest solution

Originally Posted by D429302

you should be able to find Toluene at any paint supply store. i wouldnt run too much toluene or for a long period of time as its bad for ur o2/ a/f sensors and CAT Converter. What kind of tunning soloution does this kit come with?

Originally Posted by Steven Hung

I replaced the in tank fuel pump with an used low mileage fuel pump from Evo X. That it. Nothing was done to raise the pressure on the back pressure valve on the fuel rail. It was just a precaution and is questionable whether a higher flow rate fuel pump is needed.

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...tallation.html