Where did you see it? I'm having trouble finding it. The closest I got was a mention about outsourced holdup on the Jeep's supercharger intercooler.

https://www.facebook.com/sprintex.su...tal_comments=6

In any case, I agree it would make future installs much easier... too bad we already spliced into our OE harnesses. Getting the PnP harness would require attempting to "restore" the OE wiring .

As for the availability of connectors... well, aside from an indicator marking on the connector themselves, the three connectors on the ECU are actually the same, all three are 49p connectors. Though there are 49 pins, none are completely used. If Honda wanted, they could've used just two, but it probably would've been more work than necessary. Oh, the indicator markings are a square, a triangle and a circle (A, B and C). So if they really wanted, they only need to source one plug for each of the 3.

That being said, a fourth plug? I wonder what this fourth connector is.

On the supercharger wiring, it cuts or T's into wires in 3 connector plugs. Two of them are connectors B and C. The third is actually a 13p connector behind it. From what I can tell in the service manual, it's a junction connector between two harnesses in the engine bay (connector A on the ECU goes to a different harness than B and C).

Could that be the fourth plug?

Unless Boomslang's plugs are something else, making the 3 plugs for some other part of the engine bay... and the 4th being used 3 times for the ECU. Meaning the connector portion on the ECU itself is the harder to source part.

Incidentally, it costs $313 to replace the harness involved in the install for the sprintex unit.

 

^ It was a comment on a post from December 18th. It has a picture of an exploded view of our compressor. And you are correct 3 connectors on the ecu.

 

Took a while, but I found it... it's not "Sprintexusa, inc."... instead it's "Sprintex Superchargers"

As such, I don't think that was Gary... but more likely someone at the Perth office, in regards to the Australian version of the supercharger (it was a response to an Australian customer)... just not sure how compatible it is with ours.

 

Supply chain management is the 1,000lb gorilla in our room. We face a different set of challenges being a manufacturer instead of a speed shop. We can NEVER make just one. A $0.50 part can stop the whole show. My personal favorite--everything HAS to be 6 weeks ahead of schedule. It's a living, though!

I don't actually work on cars for a living. That would ruin the hobby!

There are two FB pages. One for us in the states and another for Oz.

 

So, I've decided to give up on the piggyback and order a replacement unit. The new unit is the wireless variant of the SMT8-L, so nothing else should need changing.

I'm doing this because the unit no longer lights up the LED thats supposed to come on when you connect it to a PC. I suspect that there's probably more internal issues, but its hard to check with the way its sealed.

Getting a wireless version simply makes it more convenient to connect to it.

A part of me suspects that the unit got fried when I drove through a flooded portion of a street while doing a delivery (during that big storm that introduced a few other issues). I had forgotten that the road dipped quite a bit, so didn't realize just how deep it was until I was in it. The unit had been sitting pretty low in the engine bay (enough to get submerged). A USB cable was also left plugged in at the time and the cable eventually failed (some sort of green deposit was on the connector when I pulled it out).

So yeah, by all accounts, its my fault, so thats why I'm not asking Sprintex (or the retailer I got it from, JB performance) to replace the unit as defective.

I hope it gets here soon, getting tired of having a USB cable and extension running from the engine bay to my laptop in sleep mode in the back seat. To prevent if from completely losing power (at which point the SMT8-L stops functioning again), its power brick is connected to an invert from the cig adapter. This is the only way to keep my car running "normally" (not sure if that high rev is is still here), otherwise my car is stuck in limp mode.

Yes, it does sound like it could be a wiring issue with the power/ground lines in the harness, and Gary suggested I check that. But like I said, the fact the LED doesn't come on anymore is why I'm replacing it.

Edit: i also ordered a plug that is supposed to "revert" the wiring. It basically just replaces the unit and reconnects some wires... If the car functions or not with that plugged in should indicate if there's an issue with the harness. Perfect Power SMT8L Shorting Plug - Speed Mafia Forced Induction Kits

Edit: apparently, i spoke too soon... The shop i ordered from is sold out. They could get a non-wireless version, but would take 30 days to get here (from South Africa...?). I'm gonna keep looking.

Edit (5/21/2014): that online store emailed me back, offering the SMT8 (not lite) for the same cost as the lite. I turned him down. I did that because the SMT8 has a different wiring harness from the lite, which would mean I need to pull out the harness. And if I have to pull out the harness, I might as well look into what my options are. As such, I'm currently thinking of getting the AEM f/ic.

http://www.proimporttuners.com/parts...ontroller.html (it lists a plug and play harness...!?)

 

Just gonna put this as a separate reply... The store emailed me back (edit: I guess I'll mention the shop, speedmafia.com). The guy (Kevin) said PP emailed a reply to him and said they "might" have a few wireless units. They're double checking stock.

So, if anyone is interested, that is pretty much where it stands, hard to come by, if at all.

As for myself, i ordered the AEM f/ic with the (overpriced) PnP harness. Right now, i just want this done and over with. Going to need to do some re-patching of the stock wires (or possibly even ordering the OE engine harness for $313, ouch).

 

check ebay for harness, one is on there!!

 

Jibberjabbs also messaged me a link to an ebay listing for the harness for $12(?!?). What i find curious is the part number, there's an extra "1" at the end. 32110-RP3-A001 instead of 32110-RP3-A00 (for manual trans). Not sure what that is about. Searching for 32110-RP3-A00 on ebay shows the $12 listing (with extra 1 in part number) along with a $289 listing.

In any case, i'm gonna try patching it first. If the patching doesn't work, then i'll reconsider my options for a harness.

P.s. I used to have an ebay account a while back... But i closed it. The one time i tried to make a purchase, the seller screwed with me. I generally am not a fan of ebay anyway. Unrelated, but did you read about their system getting hacked? Fun fun fun!

 

Make sure you have a paypal account to use wth ebay. If the seller tries to screw you over, you can complain to paypal and they get most of your money back if not all of it. I had issues with sellers before but have always used PayPal and was able to get my money back!

 

Good luck with the new boomslang harness and aem fic . Let us know how it goes. I'll be waiting a little more before I think about changing to aem fic. Any other mods you making?

 

This was about 8 years ago or so (late 2005 or early 2006)... I forgot when I actually got the paypal account, but for this purchase, I used a money order to pay for a PSP basic bundle (admittedly, I sniped and won by a penny). The guy claimed my payment was late and the same day, all the parts for PSP bundle were listed separately by the seller (battery, wrist strap, etc). Didn't communicate with me or anything. I messaged him about what I was doing and when I sent payment, but no response... the day it was "due", he killed the transaction with a dispute and claimed no payment on ebay. Had to file a claim with Western Union to get most of the money back (minus the $12 fee). Two other purchases (edit: not by me, but using my account) were a little less problematic, but not worry free... so I decided to just stay away altogether. Closed both my paypal and ebay accounts in 2008 after some personal events.

I'm not sure it's a Boomslang harness, though I'm not saying it isn't either... I know the price is pretty close ($500 for the one I ordered), but the site didn't specify anything beyond having a plug and play harness for the AEM to 2009-2013 Honda Fit.

I don't have any additional mod plans at the moment. Staying away from modding the exhaust, mostly because I don't like loud exhausts. Might reconsider if they make a dual exhaust with one side close-able... I saw a BMW with such a setup (I could actually see a butterfly valve open and close in one of the pipes). Of course, that assumes it can keep the noise to a minimum.

 

This is old, and probably no longer relevant. But, for the record, my apologies. My previous response was, no, i wasn't getting throttle drops. But i only tested with the AT in D. I didn't do a thorough test.

I recently tried putting the AT in S, used paddle shifters, and when i got to M3, it happened. At ~6400rpm, revs dropped to ~6200rpm before climbing again.

I put the AT in D and tested again. Flicked to 3 and floored it. Revs climbed to ~6600rpm the auto-shifted. No rev drop noticed.

I didn't think i'd get different results with the AT in D and S. Apologies again for not doing a thorough test.

 

Might be related to this other thread...

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...-3rd-gear.html

 

Does anyone have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up? If so, do you notice pressure drop as the RPM climbs? If you have a digital gauge, do you have it plugged into a data logger? What I'm trying to see is the pressure level as the Fit goes through the RPM range (and if anything happens when holding high RPM).

My reasoning for asking follows...

I haven't gotten the AEM f/ic or the shorting plug yet (trying not to be impatient, but it's hard).

Anyway, the other day, I got to thinking about the fuel pump. With my laptop plugged in, I run mostly normal. The only issue I have is the one issue I've always had... tripping limp when HOLDING high RPM.

As newbie as I am, I think it's fuel pressure related. Sure, Gary and Steven are showing examples of the fuel pump being sufficient. But at the same time, I don't see them forcibly holding the gear at high RPM. Attempt to hold it at 5k or 5.5k for 5, 10 or even 15 seconds (I don't think I've lasted past 10 seconds though).

I believe that when doing a normal upshift without holding the RPM, the fuel rail does experience a drop in pressure with the injectors out-doing the pump. But the once shifted, the RPM drops a bit and the injectors aren't going as strongly. Especially true on the 5th injector, since it varies by both RPM AND TPS (and I normally lift off the pedal to shift). Every time they STOP injecting fuel, it allows the pressure to build some.

But when holding the RPM, the pressure continues to drop until its too low for the injectors to work properly. One or two injectors fail to put (sufficient amount of) gas in a given port, causing a misfire there. At the same time, it momentarily builds up just pressure for the next injector to work... eventually it cycles all the ports (it's long enough to trip pending THEN full DTC). Which, to me explains both the random and all four port specific misfire codes (P0300 for random, P0301-P0304 for ports).

I could easily be wrong, but I think further indication of this... is when I pump gas at the station.

I notice that as my fuel tank empties, the short trims go higher and high in general. At idle, its usually close to 10. But as soon as I refill the tank, it drops to negative. As I go through a tank, my long trim creeps up from -0.78 to 10.16 (depending on how I drive). Now, I'm not positive on why this happens, could be the fuel adding pressure and or the fact I just opened/closed the gas cap, removing any built up vacuum (or some combination of both). Initially, I wasn't sure if it was because I reset the trip... but this happened on the last refill where I left the trip meter alone.

Due to my tripping limp mode (with the 5 misfire codes) being mostly on the spur of the moment or sometimes completely random (not a forced test), as I normally don't hold my RPM up high, but sometimes I do, if I'm in the middle of a shift and trying to pass BEHIND someone (hold the RPM to avoid speeding up into them). Its a PITA to get this in the middle of highway traffic. So, due to the infrequent occurrences, I can't be certain but it "seems" like the time it takes to trip limp varies with fuel tank level... more gas I have in the tank, longer it takes to trip. Again, I believe it points back to pressure dropping.

 

When I first had my fit tuned by Church automotive, I was told to get a bigger fuel pump as the oem one could not keep up due to my cold air intake in the high rpms. I asked If I needed bigger fuel injectors too but they said no.

They told me not go over 5500 rpm or risk going lean and likely tripping limp mode until I got myself a bigger fuel pump and a retune.

What kind of intake do you have?

I remember 1sickveilside mentioning that he does trip limp mode if he holds it at high rpm for too long.

 

I still have the stock airbox with a K&N drop-in filter.

 

I am currently back on the stock air box too with a k&n drop in filter.

Did you get a replacement piggyback? I got a replacement piggyback a while back due to it being defective. There are two other owners who had defective ones. We had problems keeping the memory meaning the maps kept getting erased. The new one I got had it preloaded with a new map. It's different from the Church map according to Gary. I seem to be running rich a bit I think as I see more soot coming out my exhaust. My city mpg is around 25-26, while my freeway is around 28-29. I've had no issues so far with this new preloaded piggyback so far though I've never pushed it at high rpms like you have.

I don't really have any other mods right now other than my mugen exhaust which they say will not affect the tune.


Gary sent me a new map to tryout but don't really feel like paying the tuner $100 just to upload the map right now. Is uploading a new map fairly easy?

 

edit1:

No, I didn't get a replacement unit. Honestly, I don't think it was defective before I fried it when I submerged part of my car. As far as I can tell, it holds the map data fine.

I can drive hard and do most anything without any issues. Blast my way down an on ramp, push it to redline, shift, redline-shift again? No problem. Its only if I HOLD the RPM high for a while that causes an issue (not even close to a typical situation anyway). And I think it just runs out of fuel to inject properly at that point. Unfortunately, this wouldn't show up in the log, as it doesn't look at any injectors besides the 5th injector. If the log shows anything... it might be leaning AFR. Oh crap, I think I still have the program logging since yesterday (a day of no driving too).

edit2: it only logged 3 hours worth before my laptop ran out of juice.

(rest is original before edit) ~~~~~

The only "trouble" with uploading a map, might be getting the software setup if you're not computer friendly.

But if you've installed software on a computer before, you should be able to do it.

Gonna condense some info into this post.

The link in the FAQ thread doesn't work for the latest version software... he edited part of it, but the wrong part (description says deploy_public.msi, but actual link still goes to setup.exe which has since been deleted so it ends with an error page).

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...loy_Public.msi (newer than perfectpower website)

After you install the LetRipp program, you'll want to install the driver software (actual software for Windows to recognize the SMT when its plugged in). That will depend a little on what version of Windows you have (no Macs).

Many can be found at Perfectpower's site: Software Downloads

Gary also included a 64-bit version in the FAQ
You should install the driver software before plugging in the SMT8-L. Devices are supposed to prompt the user to install the software if it isn't already on the computer, but some won't or they don't process the install correctly. When that happens there's a bit of "doing/un-doing" that ends up happening.

The usb cable you want to have is "mini-usb" (there's another that newer phones use, micro-usb, not usable on the SMT8-L). The description should be "A to mini-B" usb cable. Maybe an extension cable to route it into the car for data logging and such. That one would be called "A male to A female." I'm using an extension cable, since I have quite a few shorter mini-usb cables. Unfortunately, it has an exposed male end, so I might be ordering a new one.



then plug it in and hope the usb drivers work from the start. The program might need one setting changed when you plug in, you have to configure the communication setup to USB instead of RS232.

~~~~~ That's the setup ~~~~~

LetRipp V2 Software User Guide - Software Features (the online software manual)

What you'll what to do after depends on what you want.

If you want to see the unit and it's data, plug in the unit start the program (in either order).

If you want to see new maps, you downloaded from Gary (or possibly anyone else you know), WITHOUT immediately loading it to the unit, unplug the unit! With the unit unplugged, quit the program then restart it if it was already running. Once its started, go to file, then "load offline smt8-lite" (you actually won't have this option if you're still in the program and connected to the unit). After that you can load the file (keep them in the place Gary mentions to keep it simple "C:\tune_mapfiles").

If you load the file with the unit plugged in and connected to the letripp software, it automatically downloads the mapping into the unit, erasing whatever was there before. If you want to keep a backup of the current map, you have to do it before loading a new map in the program (go to "file" then "save").

NOTE: the program views "upload" as transferring from the unit to the PC. and "download" as from the PC to the unit.

And check the status bar near the bottom... usually says "polling" something. It's communicating with the unit. The numbers jump when you do a download to the unit. Wait for it to come back down to "normal" before doing anything else after a download.

This is about as much as I can tell you with what I know about computers. I don't know near enough about tuning to tell you anything on how to change the data (other than, press enter each time you change a cell/box). You'll need to ask anyone that knows more.

 

Thanks Goobers! I appreciate the time you took to talk about uploading maps!

Are you considering buying a bigger fuel pump then?

Gary told me to buy from deatschwerks instead buying an oem evo x which is
pretty expensive. I too will eventually buy a bigger fuel pump.

I'm just waiting for sprintex to make the 150 plus internal upgrade for our sc ready for purchase then I will add all the mods I want to maximize the sc's potential on 91 oct plus the retune then that will be it for me.

Hope your issue gets solved soon!

 

Yeah, I am considering it. Debating putting a fuel sensor (and where/how to add it) vs jumping to a bigger fuel pump.

I keep seeing that "deatschwerks" pump pop up in my search. It's $140 for the D65c pump (on Amazon, so many different part #s) that is a direct fit for the Evo X (and thereby our cars if Steven was able to put an Evo X pump in)... might be worth it.

Edit: ooooh, i finally got some shipping info for some of the stuff i ordered. The AEM f/ic unit itself got shipped last friday and should be arriving this friday. But more to the point, the harness was shipped today.... from Boomslang. So, i guess thats confirmation its a boomslang harness.

I still don't have shipping info for the smt8-l shorting plug... Or the various replacement bits i ordered from bernardi. I broke a lot of clips when removing the cowl and tore up the weather seal (between the cowl and windshield) a bit.