oh I am the next install boys! Just ordered it tonight

 

Have fun with the install.

 

Hey, you do know this comes with supercharger ONLY and nothing else. Hardware only not a complete kit.

 

yep i know, I wouldn't be using the other stuff because I am going K-tuner + RDX turbo injectors

 

My kit came with everything. Most of the OE hardware is reused to install the unit.

 

Well, just so you know... my Fit is basically running hardware only. Being doing that for the last 3+ years/50k+ miles.

The SMT8-L fried itself and I didn't like the way I was routing the AEM fi/c6 through the firewall, so I them both out. Pretty much everything else from the "complete kit" is still installed, even if not being used (5th injector, MAP sensors, etc)

I swapped out the factory fuel pump for the DW65c, so that might help a little.

I want to put the AEM unit back in, since it was so useful for logging, but that'll have to wait until I figure out the best way to mount/route it that I can live with.

 

Just curious if anyone is using SC in racing applications? Any issues with reliability?

 

Yes and I blew out the seals within 800 Miles.

 

whoa I thought there was much more people that have done this, here is my serial number, am I number 6 or something?
S5-150-080715-0006

 

Its possible you are #6 (or got the 6th unit)... but then again, looking at the rest of the serial number, big section doesn't match mine. But, then again (again), while I've seen pictures of the Sprintex unit on Fits/Jazzes, they aren't close enough for me to make out their serial numbers.

Something JB told me when I called to confirm the repair on my sc, was that Sprintex made some changes to the sc after the "early adopters" got them (myself included). So it's also possible that the big middle section isn't all that relevant and they restarted the ending sequence from the beginning.

edit: finally (barely) saw serial numbers on two units (both in this thread)... they also don't match mine for the big section. Also, one had 0002 for the end, and it wasn't Noxm09. In conclusion, I guess the serial numbers aren't exactly that indicative which nth unit a person gets.

And so, the question in my earlier post was meaningless.

 

 

Did the Restrictor in your inlet manifold welded or cast?
if it is cast, then you have the new version.
Sprintex identify this new version on the manual as Concept-2,
and if you buy the full kit, it came with plug and play harness, no soldering or cutting), although I heard the plug and play harness had some pin error...
while the old full kit, do not came with plug and play harness.

On my sprintex the number on that white sticker is much lower than yours, so I think you got a newer built unit than mine.
So far mine do not have any problem.

 

What is the Pin error? I may have to use it actually.. we'll see.. still working on figuring out how to tune this thing... crap.. this is not as easy as I planned it to be. The installation was the easy part.. tuning on the other hand.. is a problem.

 

I wasn't paying much attention to the forums for a while, so I don't know much about the PnP hardness that came later. But the original wiring harness that came with "concept 1" had pin issues where some of them didn't fit properly and interrupt the signal if they're wiggled/jarred from a bump or whatever.

Have you tried copying and modifying the factory map?

Frying itself aside, the SMT8-L with the LetRIPP software was actually somewhat intuitive... considering a total amateur like me could pick up bits of "knowledge" about tuning just from playing with it.

I also liked that it data logged a lot of different sensors/info and showed pretty much any of it as real time numbers on a laptop. But, while I could graph the info, it wasn't anywhere near as pretty/useful as AEM's graph output. What I ended up doing was, datalog with the SMT8-L through LetRIPP and then export it to a common file that AEM's software could read.

AEM f/ic6 with Boomslang harness is another way to tune it... but while it can retard timing, it can't advance it. So, if you ever want to advance timing, you're out of luck in this case... not to mention, that combo is pretty pricey (unless its dropped since when I bought it).

I'm still dreaming of a way to plug it back in without leaving the firewall grommet open. That grommet was the reason I unhooked the AEM from my Fit. I don't like slicing in to OEM stuff, but I don't know if I can get enough slack to move it in/out and use another grommet in its place. I did consider mounting the AEM unit itself in the engine bay, but it probably wouldn't survive if it ever got wet.

 

If you’re running KTuner, contact Kenny (Turbogixxer) - he’s quite familiar with tuning KTuner Sprintex-fitted GE8’s. E-tune and you’re good.

 

Oh, just remembered something.

@noxmo9, since you had your unit rebuilt with the ‘vacuum leak’ fixed, has your tune changed? Do you know if it needs more fuel?

When I was told of the vacuum fix needing to be done on my unit, I thought... would that allow the unit to boost (slightly) higher? Or rather, did it mean that pre-fix the boost was low enough for the factory ecu and overall engine survivability without extra fuel?

Of course, I promptly forgot about it later on, until today.

Makes me curious. Too bad there’s no way to take a direct cylinder wall temp test. The ECT is probably much lower than that once the sensor takes a reading.

 

does anyone have any belt noise going on with theirs? mine is making a different sound after its warmed up. Not sure what the sound is, but it sounds like its skipping or maybe getting eaten somewhere at idle.

 

I had noise with the auto-tensioner. Basically, it sounds like what I would expect from dry bearings.

I’m not sure what skipping would sound like.

 

yes maybe its the same sound I am having, how do I fix that?

 

Hondapartsnow shows the diagram, but I usually buy from Bernardi Honda online.

I replaced the whole assembly... part number 31170-RB0-J02 for $152.

But maybe you could get away with just replacing the idler pulley 31180-55A-003 and/or bearing cover 31185-RB0-J01 for far far cheaper, $75 for pulley and $5 for the cover.

I didn't go that route because I wasn't sure if I needed to repack grease/lube with the new parts. And that was something I didn't want to deal with.

Speaking of repacking grease, maybe you could just do that.