What did you do to your GE fit today?
the tubing is Samco Hose and I order directly from UK because it is much cheaper (even with shipping from UK) compare to buying it here...
and please wish me luck with the tuning, hopefully it will ran properly today
Done painting VSA/Cruise Switch combo from Honda CRV,
going to use this switch to replace the single VSA switch on my car,
while the cruise control switch will function as MAP A / MAP B selector for AEM F/IC-6.
Both of them will need relay because our VSA switch is actually normally closed while the VSA switch on the CRV is actually normally open.
The MAP A / MAP B selector on the AEM F/IC-6 is just a dump to ground switch,
which grounded as MAP B, so I need a relay so the indicator light will shy on the switch when it is pressed in but activate MAP A (I like the light to stay on)
Paint actually look better in real world and since it will be located further lower,
it will look ok hahaha (I am not the best painter out there)...
going to use this switch to replace the single VSA switch on my car,
while the cruise control switch will function as MAP A / MAP B selector for AEM F/IC-6.
Both of them will need relay because our VSA switch is actually normally closed while the VSA switch on the CRV is actually normally open.
The MAP A / MAP B selector on the AEM F/IC-6 is just a dump to ground switch,
which grounded as MAP B, so I need a relay so the indicator light will shy on the switch when it is pressed in but activate MAP A (I like the light to stay on)

Paint actually look better in real world and since it will be located further lower,
it will look ok hahaha (I am not the best painter out there)...
Congrats on finally installing it!
technically, its probably 45 hp at the wheel. Soo around 175 at the fly. Not too shabby.
technically, its probably 45 hp at the wheel. Soo around 175 at the fly. Not too shabby.
The improvement on the low to mid range is great, and the car now somehow shift more smoothly and faster compare to stock in the mid to low range...
It's just the top end that it's not really that much faster, but I think this is because, the tuner want to make sure my car is reliable on WOT so he make it rich at 11.5 air to fuel ratio,
plus he want to get rid of the knock and I no longer use the 5th injector at the intake elbow setup which at top end should help cool the air coming into the cylinder. I was planning to replace the hole from this 5th injector with water/meth injection and I even already bought the AEM water/meth injection kit but I decide to return it (buy at Amazon) because I worry if someday that water/meth injection system somehow fail (either not injecting water or actually valve broken and keep on injecting water/water hammer)...
I could have catastrophic engine damage. So since I now have slightly hotter air compare coming into the cylinder compare to the original Sprintex design with 5th injector, I think the fact that I still make that horsepower number is good.
too bad their design do not allow adding any intercooler at all.
and the horsepower shown on the dynograph is a wheel horsepower
while the horsepower on Honda official spec is crank horsepower,
so I agree with Boostedtaco.
I could increase the boost with smaller pulley but then again it will be hotter and for sure I will need water meth injection... which I don't (I can't) ... for now, since this is my only car and my daily drive
Hello everybody,
The improvement on the low to mid range is great, and the car now somehow shift more smoothly and faster compare to stock in the mid to low range...
It's just the top end that it's not really that much faster, but I think this is because, the tuner want to make sure my car is reliable on WOT so he make it rich at 11.5 air to fuel ratio,
plus he want to get rid of the knock and I no longer use the 5th injector at the intake elbow setup which at top end should help cool the air coming into the cylinder. I was planning to replace the hole from this 5th injector with water/meth injection and I even already bought the AEM water/meth injection kit but I decide to return it (buy at Amazon) because I worry if someday that water/meth injection system somehow fail (either not injecting water or actually valve broken and keep on injecting water/water hammer)...
I could have catastrophic engine damage. So since I now have slightly hotter air compare coming into the cylinder compare to the original Sprintex design with 5th injector, I think the fact that I still make that horsepower number is good.
too bad their design do not allow adding any intercooler at all.
and the horsepower shown on the dynograph is a wheel horsepower
while the horsepower on Honda official spec is crank horsepower,
so I agree with Boostedtaco.
I could increase the boost with smaller pulley but then again it will be hotter and for sure I will need water meth injection... which I don't (I can't) ... for now, since this is my only car and my daily drive
The improvement on the low to mid range is great, and the car now somehow shift more smoothly and faster compare to stock in the mid to low range...
It's just the top end that it's not really that much faster, but I think this is because, the tuner want to make sure my car is reliable on WOT so he make it rich at 11.5 air to fuel ratio,
plus he want to get rid of the knock and I no longer use the 5th injector at the intake elbow setup which at top end should help cool the air coming into the cylinder. I was planning to replace the hole from this 5th injector with water/meth injection and I even already bought the AEM water/meth injection kit but I decide to return it (buy at Amazon) because I worry if someday that water/meth injection system somehow fail (either not injecting water or actually valve broken and keep on injecting water/water hammer)...
I could have catastrophic engine damage. So since I now have slightly hotter air compare coming into the cylinder compare to the original Sprintex design with 5th injector, I think the fact that I still make that horsepower number is good.
too bad their design do not allow adding any intercooler at all.
and the horsepower shown on the dynograph is a wheel horsepower
while the horsepower on Honda official spec is crank horsepower,
so I agree with Boostedtaco.
I could increase the boost with smaller pulley but then again it will be hotter and for sure I will need water meth injection... which I don't (I can't) ... for now, since this is my only car and my daily drive

Seeing as a stock car dynos at around 90 WHP, this is actually a really good result. This is a 1.5L SOHC engine, you aren't going to make K power without spending A lot more money.
What you say about the difference in how it drives makes sense compared to a stock GE. If you not only compare the improvement, but the way the car makes power compared to stock (K&N has a baseline graph on their web site if you look at the product data for their intake, if anyone wants a reference) is a lot more progressive and power climbs a lot faster, not to mention the torque band is less linear, but as with any roots type supercharger, you get a huge torque bump in the midrange.
Seeing as a stock car dynos at around 90 WHP, this is actually a really good result. This is a 1.5L SOHC engine, you aren't going to make K power without spending A lot more money.
Seeing as a stock car dynos at around 90 WHP, this is actually a really good result. This is a 1.5L SOHC engine, you aren't going to make K power without spending A lot more money.
Thanks for the comment,
I also want to add that my AEM F/IC-6 had been set (in conjunction with modifying my boomslang harness and add some relay to trick the ECU) to activate the VTEC at 4,000 rpm vs. 5,400rpm (stock).
It's funny how the graph all show little dip at around 4,000 rpm in torque and hp... Probably I should set it at 4,300rpm or so...
anyway, I need to move on now to my next goal...
which is Recaro

and still much more...
gee, I wish I had a job that pay more... so I can get all done sooner...
I bought the Sprintex around... I think October or November of last year...
and I need 8 to 9 month before I can complete the install due to all the extra things I need to buy for this install..
A baby would be born by 9 months
Last edited by BMW ALPINA; Jul 22, 2016 at 03:04 AM.
Hi Spryter,
Thanks for the comment,
I also want to add that my AEM F/IC-6 had been set (in conjunction with modifying my boomslang harness and add some relay to trick the ECU) to activate the VTEC at 4,000 rpm vs. 5,400rpm (stock).
It's funny how the graph all show little dip at around 4,000 rpm in torque and hp... Probably I should set it at 4,300rpm or so...
anyway, I need to move on now to my next goal...
which is Recaro
and still much more...
gee, I wish I had a job that pay more... so I can get all done sooner...
I bought the Sprintex around... I think October or November of last year...
and I need 8 to 9 month before I can complete the install due to all the extra things I need to buy for this install..
A baby would be born by 9 months
Thanks for the comment,
I also want to add that my AEM F/IC-6 had been set (in conjunction with modifying my boomslang harness and add some relay to trick the ECU) to activate the VTEC at 4,000 rpm vs. 5,400rpm (stock).
It's funny how the graph all show little dip at around 4,000 rpm in torque and hp... Probably I should set it at 4,300rpm or so...
anyway, I need to move on now to my next goal...
which is Recaro

and still much more...
gee, I wish I had a job that pay more... so I can get all done sooner...
I bought the Sprintex around... I think October or November of last year...
and I need 8 to 9 month before I can complete the install due to all the extra things I need to buy for this install..
A baby would be born by 9 months

Last edited by jy1129; Jul 22, 2016 at 10:25 AM.
They dyno results is within the number that I am expecting.
I cannot remove the top speed limiter since I don't do any reflash of the factory ECU but using piggy back.
The modifications I did to help the engine/sprintex are:
a. Larger Throttle Body by MaxBore with Gasket Matching the intake elbow to the Throttle Body
b. Port and Polish the Intake Elbow (remove the restrictor)
c. Port and Polish the Lower Intake Manifold of the Sprintex
d. 2.25in B Pipe all the way to the back with larger resonator and Civic Si Muffler
e. T1R Down Pipe
f. Denso IK-24 (this actually help the flow inside the cylinder beside helping reduce detonation)
g. Larger Denso Fuel Pump 265lph to make sure enough fuel flow at high rpm eventhough most likely the stock pump have enough flow anyway
h. Acura RDX injector 410cc which not only larger flow but also have better improve spray pattern compare to stock injector for better atomization
i. Mugen CR-Z Airbox which allow much more air flow but still a cold air intake since it use the same stock OEM Honda CR-Z snorkel to get cold air from near the front grill and yet have the K&N Filter that more than double in surface area compare to the stock CR-Z K&N drop in filter.
But despite all the above, the maximum air flow (and boost pressure) that the Sprintex can pump into the cylinder is not that much different compare to if I don't do any of the above changes because I don't change the pulley.
I mean, of course mine would have a better smoother air flow into the sprintex and out the exhaust but not that much different except perhaps the smoother flow resulted in better throttle response.
Plus, I took out the 5th injector so now my incoming air into the sprintex is not cooled by the 5th injector spray, so this mean I need to run just slightly richer to prevent knocking than if I use the 5th injector which also mean the car make less horsepower (because this richer Air to fuel ratio).
The advantage is, the fuel injected into each cylinder will be more precise with my 4 injector setup compare to the 5th injector setup.
In the end,
I think I still make a bit more power as shown by the dyno graph compare to the standard unmodified Sprintex with all stock engine/exhaust parts.
and I am happy enough for now, I don't think I want to add a water/meth injection anymore, nor do I want to add smaller pulley...
I just want a reliable engine that can last at least another 100,000 miles

again the main different that I feel my extra modifications above contribute are, how smooth my supercharged engine is in making the power now...
It really feel like it is a stock factory supercharged engine, and the shift quality is much improve perhaps because it can shift earlier than before,
and the sound of the engine is also more relaxed and not as high strung compare to when it was stock... this supercharged engine do sounds much better than stock !!! plus that supercharger whine in the distance

when it was stock, it like I am pushing the engine to the limit each time I need to accelerate a bit faster,... not anymore

oh, and the lower VTEC engagement also help in making the engine feel much more linear too....
yeah, I might do a little experiment and change it higher a bit to 4,200 rpm engagement instead of the current 4,000rpm...but that is it...
Ohhhh Ryu,
Your pictures make me really want to have that JDP ventilated hood so bad now...

I got to calm down... need to refill my wallet first...








