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Did the ITR big brake upgrade on my GE8, I'm a little OCD so I wanted the retaining screw for the Mini Cooper rotors. The screw is an M10x1.5 and you can use an 8.5mm drill bit with an M10x1.5 tap. You need to counter sink the screw hole a little so the retaining screw can properly seat, I used a 3/4" drill bit to do that. Side note, tried installing stop tech stainless braided lines and the mounting bracket where it attaches to the hard line is completely incorrect. What the heck stop tech? Can anyone recommend a brand that actually fits?
I had no luck with one of those impact drivers; the kind where you hit it with a hammer while trying to turn it. Then I tried using a JIS bit in my small cordless impact, which promptly stripped the first bolt. I eventually threw in the towel and drilled mine out, which took about three minutes each.
Fortunately replacement bolts are available at the parts store. Or you could just leave them off entirely - they don't really do anything once the wheel is back on - but I didn't like the idea of leaving a threaded hole open with nothing in it.
I wasn’t referring to impact driver. Get a pin punch and hammer the screw ccw, it will loosen and spin out
I wasn’t referring to impact driver. Get a pin punch and hammer the screw ccw, it will loosen and spin out
The impact driver they're referring to is the correct tool. It's what I used for mine and they all came right out with zero damage with a few blows from a 4 pound mini sledge. It's like what you're describing but better since it turns the impact into a twisting force. Also most people don't use this correctly, first you need to set it to turn the right way then you need to preload it ever so sightly for it to work properly. The more you know...
The impact driver they're referring to is the correct tool. It's what I used for mine and they all came right out with zero damage with a few blows from a 4 pound mini sledge. It's like what you're describing but better since it turns the impact into a twisting force. Also most people don't use this correctly, first you need to set it to turn the right way then you need to preload it ever so sightly for it to work properly. The more you know...
I know what an impact driver is, I have one I use to reinstall the screws. The bits will break off in the screw if it’s rusty, the punch will break the screw free.
I know what an impact driver is, I have one I use to reinstall the screws. The bits will break off in the screw if it’s rusty, the punch will break the screw free.
like I said, just did mine which were corroded on the shank of the screw and all 4 came out with no damage using that exact tool. Sounds like user error because like I said most people don't know how to properly use the tool. (I have 30 years of experience wrenching...I think I know a thing or two) but you keep doing you, seems like it's working out well knowing everything
like I said, just did mine which were corroded on the shank of the screw and all 4 came out with no damage using that exact tool. Sounds like user error because like I said most people don't know how to properly use the tool. (I have 30 years of experience wrenching...I think I know a thing or two) but you keep doing you, seems like it's working out well knowing everything
JDM headlights in! Still need to fine tune the fitment and work on the turn signals but my previous rewiring has the parking lights as the turn signals so I’m just without parking lights currently which is fine haha.
Dont know why your comment wasn’t showing up on my end until now— if you mean me, what @mike410b said! My signature is a bit misleading but I don’t have the same time I used to to update it weirdly enough my signature isn’t showing up in that specific comment I put with the headlight photos.
LEDs have come a long way— not as far of a throw as my previous set retrofit with 3” projectors and HIDs but still impressed with the output and cutoff of these tiny projectors. I still need to raise the driver’s side so it actually might be better once I figure out where the adjustment is on the jdm version with auto level. But these’ll do until I retrofit these headlights!
LEDs have come a long way— not as far of a throw as my previous set retrofit with 3” projectors and HIDs but still impressed with the output and cutoff of these tiny projectors. I still need to raise the driver’s side so it actually might be better once I figure out where the adjustment is on the jdm version with auto level. But these’ll do until I retrofit these headlights!
props for your build…
wanted to ask the specs on the headlamp leds… im looking to change the bulbs on my new to the family 2012 sport I got and will be used by my daughter… im looking to upgrade them so she can be a bit safer when she’s out of work during the nights…
wanted to ask the specs on the headlamp leds… im looking to change the bulbs on my new to the family 2012 sport I got and will be used by my daughter… im looking to upgrade them so she can be a bit safer when she’s out of work during the nights…
There’s other brands out there but I’ve had great experience with Auxito brand, most of my LEDs including lights for my wife’s SUV are from them. Please note that these “mini projectors” will only work on headlights with open glare shields or no glare shields in the reflector bowl. For closed glare shields I wouldn’t advise on bright LEDs because they tend to not have a good cutoff and blind oncoming traffic. You could also remove the glare shields but at that point I would suggest retrofitting projectors which I had in my previous headlights — it’s a more expensive and labor intensive undertaking but I believe it’s the right way to do it. I plan to retrofit these headlights eventually but for now these will do.
Quick question as I haven't scrolled through your entire build thread (interesting this forum doesn't use pages like most) which btw, haha you been around a minute! So here's the question, is there a way to flash the factory FIT ECU for any generation of them, specifically the GE though? I'm mostly just interested right now in disabling some things like the post CAT o2 sensor CEL, and being able to block off the EGR and disable a check or code for it as well.
Quick question as I haven't scrolled through your entire build thread (interesting this forum doesn't use pages like most) which btw, haha you been around a minute! So here's the question, is there a way to flash the factory FIT ECU for any generation of them, specifically the GE though? I'm mostly just interested right now in disabling some things like the post CAT o2 sensor CEL, and being able to block off the EGR and disable a check or code for it as well.
Haha! Yes, I’ve been around for a little while— was MIA when I lent the Fit to my sister but I’m back in it
I haven’t gone too deep into it but I do know people have used KTuner for the stock ecu when they’ve ran boost/other mods so I’m sure you can likely go that route.
found a roll of what was probably used as shim stock of my dad's in the shop, it's 0.013" thick, so very light, figured what the hell... cover those big holes from the fog lights getting busted out when my brother hit some animal. I'll likely eventually replace the bumper cover later on down the road anyway once I get caught up on some things.
found a roll of what was probably used as shim stock of my dad's in the shop, it's 0.013" thick, so very light, figured what the hell... cover those big holes from the fog lights getting busted out when my brother hit some animal. I'll likely eventually replace the bumper cover later on down the road anyway once I get caught up on some things.
Quick question as I haven't scrolled through your entire build thread (interesting this forum doesn't use pages like most) which btw, haha you been around a minute! So here's the question, is there a way to flash the factory FIT ECU for any generation of them, specifically the GE though? I'm mostly just interested right now in disabling some things like the post CAT o2 sensor CEL, and being able to block off the EGR and disable a check or code for it as well.
For the post cat O2 sensor CEL, you can just use a machnical spacer on the O2 sensor.
weirdly enough my signature isn’t showing up in that specific comment I put with the headlight photos.
