Nice! I think you have the same bezels on your retrofit that I have. Hope they're HIDs! Cheers!

Edit: No, you have the LEDs, which ones the Morimoto or NHK? I had MLED 2.0s on my car for a bit but got rid of them because I just couldn't see at night despite the warmer color temperature. I have D2S 5.0s currently but I still don't love them like I love my Mini 6.0s honestly. The width is just not there like it was with the Minis.

 

It's all an illusion considering the paint. The roof is toast and the bonnet is starting to go as well as the bumper covers. When I wash it now, I just hit the roof with my pressure washer at pointblank range and don't even towel dry it anymore. And don't even get me started on the disaster that is the front bumper cover and my attempt to do it myself with some nice rattle can paint. I was going to get it resprayed now, but the situation at work is a little iffy and I can't justify just yet dropping $4000. Maybe in the 2nd half of the year when it will almost certainly get even more expensive, FML.

As for the suspension and wheels. After getting so many assurances that this setup doesn't rub, it does indeed rub with the 205s because the front tires poke out about 3-4mm, but only on high speed dips in the road and only very briefly. I also don't like the tires I chose, like I mention in previous posts, the Kuhmo Ecsta 4 II's. While they grip very nicely in varied conditions, the ride gets, in some situations, tectonically bad, over concrete joints and those blasted paving stones so many towns here in Puerto Rico insist on using on intersections. But I've gotten used to it and most times it's not bad at all, just have to be more careful. But it was shocking because the ride on the stock 185/55s (Hankook Ventus Concept 2s) with the Swifts is basically unchanged, oh well! But you should be good with the 15s because your overall diameter is going to be less than with 16s, but that's with suspension clearance. If you're running a lower offset on the wheels then you'll almost certainly rub in certain situations, but again, it's not the end of the world. But the car is gonna look so much better with the wheels sitting further out and those wider tires, definitely! Have fun!

 

Just bought an 09, with 83,000 miles on it , $5,000. Has some cosmetic damage: rust around right wheel well, top all covered with pine pitch and it needs a new O2 sensor (got a Bosch and will install this weekend)

this is my 2nd Fit Sport , first one was totaled by a guy running a stop sign , whom then pushed me into a brand new Honda Civic (also totaled).

anyways, car isn’t bad. Really wanted another standard but all the ones I found were too expensive or had 175,000-200,000+ miles.

should I also check the spark plugs or just assume they’re good. Seems like a real PITA to do? Car is running fine.
Michel
I try and do all my own work when I can.

 

I think the plugs are due around 100,000+ miles. I'm too lazy to check right now.
I replaced the plugs on my wife's 2009 Sport at 140,593 miles and they looked like they could go another 20K+. Just a little soot, but no oil and the gaps were still close to factory specs.






I replaced them with Denso SKJ20DR-M13 plugs and the car has been running fine for 37,000 miles now.
You're right. Changing the plugs is a PITA. Not hard. Just time consuming, considering all the stuff you have to remove just to get to them. Make sure you replace yours with IRIDIUM plugs. Worth the extra cost. None of the other choices last anywhere near as long.

 

Getting to them is more work (but worth the trouble) than actually replacing them. One of my coil packs died, so I changed them at 130,000 mi. and put in NGK Ruthenium plugs just under $9 ea. You're only going to get in there every 100K so worth the extra $

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=7212&jsn=1322

 

The past several weeks I've added Rigid Collars, Hybrid Racing shifter, and did a valve adjustment to my 2009 Fit Sport.

Rigid Collars
I had a shop install the Rigid Collars when doing an oil change and some other maintenance. I took it over some familiar bumpy roads and definitely noticed a difference, it's more composed/planted and there's less body movement.

Shifter
I installed a new shifter as well. I'm very happy with the quality of everything and especially the better ergonomics. I'm using a Momo shift knob and that was tricky to reinstall since the shift lever is narrow compared to the inside of the Momo. The knob wobbled as I was testing, so I wrapped the top of the lever with gaff tape and that's made the Momo feel much more solid.

Valve Adjustment
Lastly, just finished doing the valve adjustment. My engine (160K miles) noise had gotten pretty loud and rough, so the difference is very noticeable. I also cleaned the throttle body while everything was apart and cleaned the engine air filter too. Super happy with the results, it feels more responsive while also smoother and quieter. I drove it briefly around the neighborhood and on hills where the engine used to shake in 2nd at low speed, no longer. Even sitting at idle, the noise and vibrations were noticeably less. I'm really pleased and am excited to drive it more and see what MPGs I can get.

• Update: I've gone on a road trip along with some city driving, so far it seems I'm getting 5 MPG better (more like 6 now but slowly leveling out), which is awesome!
• Additional tip: I suggest using a foam kneeling pad when doing the adjustment, it really helped my back. Instead of hunching over for a while you can just lean against the pad. I put the foam pad right over the center hood latch and the top of the grille and rested against that, just be warned that the foam pad will get cut apart (because of the hood latch)

I learned some adjustment tips from YouTube that came in handy...

• Adjusting the precise amount: I liked how Nikko Salgado explains in his video, get it tight enough so that the desired feeler gauge just fits and confirm by making sure the next size up doesn't. If the next size up does fit, tighten the valve a bit more. This was the easiest, most straightforward way to stay consistent.
• Confirm, re-confirm, re-confirm again: Jim Misencik's video was the one I most often referenced, and he made the point that you should confirm the measurements in firing order at least 2X after you adjust a cylinder. I'm glad I did this since I had to re-adjust quite a lot when re-confirming, more than 2X.

 

@GE8tl Nice!! Hey, post up some pics of the shifter!!
​​​​​​And I never thought to double-check valves. Its hard to hit the mark for lining up tdc. bad idea, but it seems like they should have a stop or give you a stick with premade marks to put into the spark plug hole 😂
​​​​​​Ah, if I made a car...

 

@@Pyts Thanks! Nice to see another Atlanta Fit driver 😊 Yes I should have shared photos, I don't have too many process shots but I'll share two I have.

Y'all are going to kill me but I'm covering the shifter with a boot. I'd done the Hybrid Racing shifter cable bushings and detent spring before, along with a clutch delay valve delete kit from Seb's Garage, so it's really fun to shift this thing!

The double-checking clearances was super tedious and repetitive but I'm glad I did it. Jim Misencik has another pro-tip in his video to put the feeler gauge under both valves on the cylinder you're adjusting to save time, but I didn't since knowing me I was worried I'd drop it in the engine haha...


Valve adjustment after cleaning the throttle body


Shifter height and rotation testing

 

Whats this about cable and bushing mods? Are those old news now that you have the short shifter?
I went with buddyclub way back when, cdv delete, and a mishimoto/rockstar shift knob that was supposed to look like a dirt bike grip. Keeps getting mistaken for a sword handle.. It was the heaviest I could find with a plastic grip, coming in at like.. 600 grams?



I gotta clean it before taking a picture 😂 And I absolutely put the shift boot back on. Is ditching it a thing? I mean, that shifter looks awesome compared to my pile of black plastic.. but naked parts look unfinished.

Did'ja lower the clutch pedal yet?!

 

@@Pyts No, I didn't know lowering the clutch pedal was a thing but I'll look into it. I upgraded the pedals, but not the position of anything. The clutch pedal assembly has been creaking a bit and it's annoying me.

Yes, often with Hybrid Racing shifters I see people leave them out and exposed. They're beautiful engineering but I personally don't want to leave it uncovered like that.

I originally did just a Buddy Club short shifter, later I came across advice to update the shifter cable bushings and detent springs too, which I did and it improved the feel and crispness. The new shifter was nice compared to the loose OEM one but I realized I wanted it to be further back and taller, so I'd been eyeing the Hybrid Racing one for a while.

 

You just pitched a mod that has my complete interest. I gotta admit, between the buddyclub shifter and the stock seat, my driving posture is trash. hate long car rides due to slow onset back pain.. But dude, I couldnt drive the stock set-up. It was my first manual. Kept missing gears and dumping the clutch til the swap, pedal adjustment, valve delete (just lowering the clutch pedal to the bottom of their range within manufacturer specs -- no more raising your whole leg up. you can find the clutch pedal adjustment procedure in the service manual)

I'm gonna check out your recommendation.

 

​​​​​Just joined this community (even though I've visited several times and gleaned super helpful information based on what others have experienced and tried). My 2012 fit sport has a brand new OEM alternator (as of January 2024) but now I have another issue. CEL flashing and I get "cylinder 3 misfire" as well as "injector circuit open". Just replaced all four spark plugs, ignition coil (3) and fuel injector (3). Unfortunately, problem persists. Any suggestions on what could be continuing to cause the issue? I appreciate any insight you can offer me.

 

Seeking help!

Pyts,
Sorry to reply a specific question to your above comment. I know it's totally unrelated; however, I've definitely seen you on these posts before and I figured you would potentially be a good source of info. Additionally , I don't know how to start a thread on here!
Again, I totally appreciate any suggestions you may have.

 

@Sporttwelve Here's a thread just for you, friend. It's got your intro, and some follow-up questions from yours truly. Hopefully the real smart guys will jump in, too.

 

Look at that red white coloring, a tasteful thickness of it. OMG ...

 

My Hybrid Racing shifter is also covered with its boot as well. But such a well made piece can't go to waste. Only thing I've had to deal with is the base coming loose on two occasions and when I would put it in gear, it would bump the center console. I really torqued it down the last time and I hope it holds.
I can't wait till I have time to do the valve adjustment on my car, I feel like it will solve my often relatively poor fuel consumption. Thanks for sharing!

 

I have seen mentions of a lip for the fit GE8...Seen this lip mentioned(06-07 SUBARU IMPREZA WRX STI - S204 FRONT LIP)...decided to give it a go..It was $95 CAD..

Had to trim ends...easy peasy..it fit like a glove...lined right up!

Used the supplied screws and it rock solid.

Good primer....2 light coats...then color match...then 2K clear...if you want it to last and be durable 2K clear is a must!

 

How hard was it to get an even coat of that 2k? I recently restored my headlights and got a can of the 2 in 1 headlight clear, but I've been putting off spraying it until I'm 100% sure I can get it right. Also heard it's pretty nasty stuff. Apparently 3M doesn't offer any filters rated for isocyanates, not even the 60926's are enough.

 

The 2k clear is awesome...it doesnt spray like the average rattle can...I got my mask at local autobody supply store..check one of those..Yes it is definitly nasty stuff...so get proper mask...spray outdoors....experience is the only thing that will make spray job not mess up...You dont want to spray too far away(dryspray) or too close as you may get runs...Watch some youtubes of spraying spraymax 2k for pointers perhaps.

 

Hi, newbee here with 2007 Honda Fit Sport question. I have a vibration that seems to come from front drivers side wheel area. Noise & vibration increases when turning right, mostly disappears turning left. Had driver side front wheel bearing replaced. Noise & vibration is still these. Had drivers side axle replaced last year. Checked tranny fluid, was 1/2 way in hash marks when hot. Would you have any ideas or suggestions to track down this issue.