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I haven’t seen too many of their videos., but did catch one where they did an e-car conversion.
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Had to do a supply run at Restaurant Depot. Was a little worried that I would be overworking the suspension. But luckily, I didn’t have to buy too much stuff. Even though it took up a little more room than my Pepsi resupply at Costco, it weighed about half as much.
Normally, my Costco visits end up with a wide scruff ring along the outer sidewall of the rear tires. Nothing appeared this time, but I guess it would need to be the same run to be sure. I hope the higher offset helps in that regards.
If I were to recommend a few MCM videos to watch, Kei to the City/Chasing Midnight for cinematic value, or on their sister channel MCMTV2 they have a 14 part build of a Nissan Stagea with a turbo'd V8 4wd manual transmission, or simply the Double Unicorn build.
I own a set of A.R.T racing triple laser strings, but I left it back at my buddys house, who uses it alot more than I do. a few days ago, I aligned my front toe using the good ol' fashioned fishing string on jack stands method
Originally Posted by Goobers
Before:
After:
talk to me more about the new calipers. was it smaller, for the sake of weight savings? or, does it accept a new type of rotor?
looks good, clean. smaller..... but still looks darn nice.
talk to me more about the new calipers. was it smaller, for the sake of weight savings? or, does it accept a new type of rotor?
looks good, clean. smaller..... but still looks darn nice.
Honestly, I don't know why they're different (Dynalite Internal vs DynaPro Honda/Acura aka DPHA). Or even which came first. I was under the assumption the Dynalite in the BBK was designed before the DPHA (my previous set). But it could very well be the opposite, as you mentioned weight savings usually comes after an initial design on newer products.
Looking at the dimensions specs sheet, the DPHA is rather specific on being for Honda/Acura (makes sense considering the name) and lists only the 10.32" size rotor that came stock.
The Dynalite on the other hand, lists a wider range of acceptable sizes but uses adapter brackets to mount them. And this kinda points to another reason why it would make sense to have the Dynalite be designed after the DPHA. The bracket mounting would be an issue on at least our Fits, but the range allows for a similar size to stock rotor (either 10" or 10.5").
The rotor thickness is pretty much the same 0.83" vs 0.81"
Here are the two spec sheets. DPHA first, then Dynalite.
what alignment tool were ya using?
I own a set of A.R.T racing triple laser strings, but I left it back at my buddys house, who uses it alot more than I do. a few days ago, I aligned my front toe using the good ol' fashioned fishing string on jack stands method
Hello evilchargerfan, I used quicktrick alignment tool for the alignment
Took the critter to the dealer and spent seven hours there...well, I took about an hour or so to go have brunch nearby.
I forget when, but sometime within the last year, my AC stopped blowing cold air. Took it to one dealership near my work place and they said it was low. They also put some dye to see if there was a leak and told me to come back a month after that... well, I promptly forgot about going back.
Two months ago, it stopped blowing cold air again. This time, I tried recharging it myself... terrible idea. I say that, because I'm pretty certain I ended up overcharging it, despite the pressure gauge saying it was in the green (technically, it read low-ish at "rest"). Result of that overcharging... my compressor died the other day.
There's no way I can survive doing deliveries using a car with busted AC. And while I could borrow something, it would be uncomfortable to drive with my usual speed. That said, I scheduled an appointment with a dealership near my house, since the one I normally go to was backed up until the end of the month.
I had them fix the AC. Then reprogram the TPMS since I have the new wheels. And finally check the alignment since I replaced suspension parts. Much of the alignment was within spec, except for the steering... which had actually been out of spec for some time before I did the suspension. I wonder if I had hit something really hard... hum.
Cost? A little over $1500 for all three (including parts/labor/etc). What a nut buster, right after I said I wanted to chill on the spending.
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Going back to the AC... I suspected something like this would happen right as I was finishing the recharge, because during the recharge, nothing seemed to change. The compressor kicked in and read green on the pressure gauge, then went off after a few seconds and the gauge dropped to the markings that indicated I still needed to add some. I kept adding it, but nothing changed. After a while I decided it was getting too much for me... but I was too late. At that point, the compressor stopped kicking it. It would try, but immediately stop. Of course, now I'm worried.
I was able to leave my car alone for a little bit and later, when driving, the compressor seemed to work. However, the next day it would start hissing while I'm driving. I had heard this hiss rarely a few times before, but now... every couple minutes. That lasted for a few days before quieting down.
It actually stopped blowing cold air occasionally afterwards. And I noticed at the time, the AC light would be off. But I think the issue in this case is the AC button itself, as I could eventually get it to blow cold again after pressing the button off and back on (initially). Just before the compressor finally died, it turns out that the AC would work just by wiggling the button. So, I figured the button is burning out... yet, again.
nice and detailed reply Goobers, thanks! so the dynalite has more available rotors , thats neat. I wonder if they are more cost effective over the dpha in the long run.
Originally Posted by BMW ALPINA
Hello evilchargerfan, I used quicktrick alignment tool for the alignment
thanks for the reply
how did you get that fancy print out with your alignment specs?
But I bought mine a few years ago when the paint finish still black color (not shiny like this new version). I bough the kit with the most range (for wheel size). It also came with 2 digital camber meter, while this one on Amazon seemed to only show 1 camber meter. However, I prefer to use an analog camber meter...
Those "fancy" print was me typing note on microsoft words and print it for my own reference, so in the next few years when I am doing another alignment, I knew what the previous alignment was. I actually have all alignment record of my car since 2013
With this modification, I think I am almost done modifying my Honda Fit, the only think I want to buy after this is a BRAX MX4 Pro Power Amplifier, but that would be next year (or earlier if I can't help it)
you mean you're not done yet? lol jk nice to see you still at it. Im no where near done either
Hi Connor55,
I am surely done modifying my Honda Fit after I buy the BRAX MX-4 Pro Power Amp sometimes between now and next year...
In about 2 years, I think I will retire this car (register with DMV that I won't be using this car on the road) but I won't sell it, just for sentimental value since this car had been there with me and my family since I move back to USA, work from the bottom again and reach where I am today... Not to mention I spent so much time and money (BMW M3 money) in this car so not worth it if I sell it, and as in stock market you are not a loss until you cut loss/sell
My job and responsibility increase a lot since last year so I think next year I will just buy a brand new car when my Honda Fit engine/transmission reach 200,000 miles...
If and only if I have free time (and promoted to executive position so I will have some executive time ) in about 3 years from now, I might change this Honda Fit engine to the one from the current Honda Accord (The 2.0 Turbo engine with the 10 speed AT) and make it street legal with CARB... If this happened, then I will register the car back at DMV for regular daily use
the end of an area, it'll be sad to see your project done for good. hopefully its just temporary like you said. I definitely understand keeping it. I feel the same way after all the work I've done over the years. im already at 179000 km. Maybe it doesn't count though since my engine and trans only have 45000 on it now.
its too bad California makes it so difficult with engine and tuning with all the restrictions and rules. engine swap is definitely the way to go. get it in manual though, more fun!
Nothing like y'all, but yesterday I hardwired and installed my new front and rear dash cam. Those rear interior quarter panels are tough!
Photo? I did the same thing on Sunday but Monday night I had to rewire the rear because of the hatch trunk. I ended up tucking the wire into the rubber seal that goes to the brake light and made a hole for the wire to come out.
Photo? I did the same thing on Sunday but Monday night I had to rewire the rear because of the hatch trunk. I ended up tucking the wire into the rubber seal that goes to the brake light and made a hole for the wire to come out.
I should be asking you for a photo! I pulled mine across through the weather stripping, then straight out of it. That leaves the interior susceptible to water damage though.
Tough to move and wedge cables into without feeling like you're going to break them.
Weird...it usually takes me like 5 minutes per side to remove them completely if I need to work behind them. You're talking about the panels in the trunk area, yes?
Weird...it usually takes me like 5 minutes per side to remove them completely if I need to work behind them. You're talking about the panels in the trunk area, yes?
Above those, along the headliner and the rear side airbag.
07-09-2019, 06:59 PM
) in about 3 years from now, I might change this Honda Fit engine to the one from the current Honda Accord (The 2.0 Turbo engine with the 10 speed AT) and make it street legal with CARB... If this happened, then I will register the car back at DMV for regular daily use 
