When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
@MontrealFit2012 , Today 11:46 AM
Fuel consumption
A while back someone here complained about crappy gas consumption for city driving
I also noticed it
So someone here suggested shifting
1st-3rd for urban/stop and go driving to eliminate a shift and ultimately save fuel costs
Ever since reading that I tried it and it did help
Now I’m wondering if driving in urban areas in 5th gear ⚙️ at any opportunity can positively affect consumption
Im far from an expert but the lower the RPMs
the less fuel is consumed yes??
BTW this is a winter themed question because during the summer on my sport tires I rev the shit out of my car to pass idiots
I was shopping online for new headlight / park bulbs and came across these after much searching, the headlight bulbs use genuine Phillips LEDs. They should arrive in the next week or so, will update on how they perform. At $75 NZD they are similar to what I'd spend on halogen bulbs.
I purchased a set of cheap LEDs for my headlights. They're mostly fine, but the issue I've run into is that after I've seated them in the housing, the driver side's LED chips sit on top and bottom and the passenger side sit on the left and right. Now my beams are inconsistent and even after pointing the driver side all the way down, it still points too high.
The only two pictures of the car since putting the wheels on in March. Advan Kreutzer Xi 16x7 with 195/50/16 General GMax AS05. I have Swift springs & Koni Orange sitting in storage, just have to take the time/make the effort to put them on.
Shout out to the jerk that dented my front fender back in 2017.
I purchased a set of cheap LEDs for my headlights. They're mostly fine, but the issue I've run into is that after I've seated them in the housing, the driver side's LED chips sit on top and bottom and the passenger side sit on the left and right. Now my beams are inconsistent and even after pointing the driver side all the way down, it still points too high.
Are you sure you mounted them properly?
Too many people install normal halogen bulbs incorrectly. Then there comes an issue where you have rotatable LED housings, so even if you mounted the tabs on the adapter correctly, the LEDs weren't rotated into the correct position.
Too many people install normal halogen bulbs incorrectly. Then there comes an issue where you have rotatable LED housings, so even if you mounted the tabs on the adapter correctly, the LEDs weren't rotated into the correct position.
Yeah... the headlights didn't have the rotating housings. They were really cheap. The fogs I purchased later did have rotating housings.
The other week, I only moved it around so that my sister's friend could pick up the Pathfinder that my sister no longer uses. Found out at that time the battery in the Fit had flat lined... Had to use the HR-V to jump the Fit. Tried using the Fit to jump the Pathfinder... but it turns out, its way too weak. I was about to move it out and bring the HR-V back in when the friend showed up. He owns a car repair shop and brought his portable jumper kit. Sure beats my plug in jumper, which couldn't even get the Fit to start (hence why I used the HR-V to jump the Fit).
I stopped using the Fit less than a week after getting the HR-V, when the rear/parking brakes decided to really crap out on me... I don't trust the parking brake on anything other than level ground. I can drive and brake to a stop... just can't park without fearing it rolling away if the incline is steep enough, which means I can't really "drive" it for work since I'll occasionally need to stop on inclines.
Initially, I thought about just using the remote starter to have it start and time out once a week. And I did that last week, but then I thought... what if I run out of gas? So, decided that, even if the brakes are bad, I could at least just take it for a drive one day a week (and pump gas if I need to). I just need to avoid parking on any inclines. At least, until I fix the brakes and move back to using it as the primary.
Which reminds me... time to buy a new jumper... maybe a portable one?
I decided and will be soon putting my Midland 40Ch Radio and my icom IC-V8000 Dual Band Radio and antennas into my fit been wanting to do it for a long long time!
Because of limited space, I run a Stryker MC-89MC 10meter / CB & Lil Wil antenna. You almost need an external speaker. I also have an old Uniden 510 (peaked) that I throw in that cubby hole in front of the shifter. I flip the radio upside down so the speaker is up. Many times when driving, I have all radios turned off and enjoy the silence from human voices (big family), but if stuck in highway traffic, I like to call of and find out why.
Because of limited space, I run a Stryker MC-89MC 10meter / CB & Lil Wil antenna. You almost need an external speaker. I also have an old Uniden 510 (peaked) that I throw in that cubby hole in front of the shifter. I flip the radio upside down so the speaker is up. Many times when driving, I have all radios turned off and enjoy the silence from human voices (big family), but if stuck in highway traffic, I like to call of and find out why.
I got to find my antennas I have all the wires and radios all ready just don't remember what I did with the antenna's probably gonna need to get new ones though, because I have moved since just before I bought my Fit back in 2013 September 27th to be exact! LOL! I plan on being the only owner of it until it is no longer drive-able and worth doing anything too! LOL!
Because of limited space, I run a Stryker MC-89MC 10meter / CB & Lil Wil antenna. You almost need an external speaker. I also have an old Uniden 510 (peaked) that I throw in that cubby hole in front of the shifter. I flip the radio upside down so the speaker is up. Many times when driving, I have all radios turned off and enjoy the silence from human voices (big family), but if stuck in highway traffic, I like to call of and find out why.
Originally Posted by GeneralLee86
I got to find my antennas I have all the wires and radios all ready just don't remember what I did with the antenna's probably gonna need to get new ones though, because I have moved since just before I bought my Fit back in 2013 September 27th to be exact! LOL! I plan on being the only owner of it until it is no longer drive-able and worth doing anything too! LOL!
I've got the 2m antenna installed today in the far back drivers side window. Have not installed the cb antenna yet been trying figure how to wire the power cables to the battery that is what I am having the most trouble with.
Finally, I have time to solve the AirBag Warning Light on the dashboard that had light up since I installed my passenger/right side Recaro seat.
So The Solutions:
a. Buy another USED Passenger (Right) seat from the same year as mine (2013) since the whole OPDS Sensor and Control Unit change for 2012 model above, but to be safe, I bought from a USED2013 Honda Fit model (Sport or Non Sport is not a problem).
b. Took out the 4 Weight Sensor and the OPDS Sensor (embedded on the upper back seat cushion) from this used seat and transfer it to my Recaro.
Just a heads up, the T30 Torx Bolt that secure (2 per weight sensor or total of 8) the weight sensor are so hard to unscrew that I destroy 2 Impact Wrench Grade Torx Bit and 2 Non Impact Wrench Grade Torx Bit. Some of them stripped out, so I had to purchase a Screw (Drill) extractor Kit. Because of that, I replace them with Grade 12.9 M8 Hex Socket Bolt from Recaro. I am just glad that the taller head M8 Hex Socket Bolt still have enough clearance to allow the Recaro Seat Rail to slide properly.
c. Another challenge that I face was, I tried to used the control unit from the used 2013 Fit, but no matter I try, the DTC error won't clear... so after reading the service manual, I found out that although the used passenger seat that I bought came with the Control Unit, however turn out this control unit is a READ ONCE only. So you can only initialized it ONCE and it will record your car ECU ID#. Which means the used control unit can only be used with the car it originally came from.
So, I just took out the control unit from my original passenger seat, and voila, all DTC cleared after using Honda Diagnostic System to Initialized them
d. The Initialization sequence took 2 step, first to initialized the control unit, second to calibrate the weight sensor. All you need to do is to add some weight (I used my weight lifting weight at 30pounds), then enter the 30 pounds value on the calibration screen, accelerate and drive the car over 22mph, stop on level ground, press enter, and the weight show it measure 28 lbs and 13 oz, so close enough for the system to accept.
Now, the whole system works as normal, no Airbag warning light on the dashboard, and the "airbag off" light on the center console also turn on whenever I put wight on the bottom cushion seat to mimic small children, but turn off right away if I sat (and put pressure on the seat back where the OPDS sensor is).
Note: the main difference between pre 2012 OPDS system to after 2012 was, for PRE 2012, it actually have 3 set of wires coming out of the OPDS sensor to the control unit, while for the AFTER 2012, only 2 set of wires from OPDS sensor to the control unit...
The weight sensor is also different, because when I used the PRE 2012 weight sensor, I can't even calibrate and it show the weight as MAX OUT (something like over 200lbs).
Oh, one more thing, the 4 weight sensor need to be located EXACTLY like where they are located on the original Honda Seat, so make sure you marked which sensor goes to LeftFront, LeftRear, Right Front and RightRear, even their washer were color coded (black/white).
Want to add that I put the whole Control Unit on the LEFT Side of the Recaro. I just forced and slide it in from the opening right above the Rotary Know to adjust the seat backrest angle. So they are located exactly where the original location is because they might have some kind of sensor that measure their angle/position)
Another important thing is, I made sure the weight sensor is for my 2013 model because Pre 2012 model have different weight sensor calibration value. The OPDS sensor also came from a USED 2013 seat.
One last thing to note is, when you use Honda Diagnostic Tool to initialize, it usually fail to initialize the first step but when you go to the next step (OPDS plus SWS (seat weight sensor), it just works and clear my DTC right away.
In the end, another successful modification and another successful day
Last edited by BMW ALPINA; Nov 28, 2019 at 07:21 PM.
Replace the BUSHING for the SPOON Front Sway Bar during Thanksgiving weekend, had to take down the entire subframe assembly, so I took this chance to not only clean the subframe/steering rack, but clean and touch up (with paint) on area with spot of rust (including on the Cusco 4 point bar). Not the prettiest touch up paint job, but it works
Before cleaning and touch up:
After cleaning and touch up, yap clean it real well, first rub everything with Alcohol then wash them with wheel cleaner/soap, then touch up paint, oh, I also replace all the bolts and nuts (and extra washer for the steering gearbox) following Honda manual guidance, then torque them to spec. I also install back my adjustable sway bar link.
NEW Spoon Sway Bar Bushing:
Wait, there is more...
I had been promising my self, that my last modification to the car suspension will be the Beatrush pillow ball mount (which I still had not install yet, maybe next weekend),
The only other modification will be replacing my Sony XM-GS4 Car Audio Amplifier with BRAX MX4 PRO, then I am done with modifying this car... (unless I might need to replace the engine some day... but that is a different story)...
However, I recently bought a pair Recaro SR-7 ASM Limited Ruby which cost around $5k with shipping from Japan, and a BRAX MX4 PRO would cost AT LEAST around $5k (if I can found a good discount from list price of $6k to 6.5k)...
I also still need to upgrade my home audio pre and power amp, buy another car this year,... and many other stuff I promise to buy for my wife etc. etc...
So when I found a BRAX NOX4 NON DSP Version, (I prefer NON DSP since I already have time alignment function from my Sony RSX-GS9), not to mention this BRAX NOX4 came with very special serial number# 321,
in Brand New In Box condition... and... at just around $1,28k including tax...
I decided to lower my expectation, and be more reasonable (this is very hard to do)...
I know the BRAX NOX4 with just 4 x 100watt at 4 ohms RMS is adequate vs. a BRAX MX4 PRO at 4 x 300 watt RMS at 4 ohms especially since I am just going to use this 4 channel amps to drive my Front Stage Dynaudio Esotar MidBass and Tweeter...
BRAX NOX4 also looks very similar to a BRAX MX4 PRO, just smaller..., it's just that it's not "the" MX4 PRO...
But at the end of the day, my logic win against my passion this time and so I save at least around $4k compare to a BRAX MX4 PRO, which is quite a good saving considering a McIntosh latest home audio pre-amp, the C53 only list at $8k
Anyway, the BRAX NOX4 just arrived today, and I must say, I am glad I lowered my goal
below is the pictures, the build quality is amazing, I mean, just one look at those power and speaker terminal shows the craftsmanship.
Now I am having a good dilemma, should I install my Beatrush Pillow Ball Mount first this weekend, or the BRAX NOX4...
Last edited by BMW ALPINA; Dec 3, 2019 at 02:55 AM.
It's "winter" (63 degrees) here in NE Florida, so I thought I'd check the air in my tires since it's been 6 weeks or so since the last check. Apparently overdue. I added 4 or 5 pounds to each tire, bringing them up to 35 psi. (I like to keep them 2 psi higher than recommended to better even out the wear.)
I put some gas in it yesterday.
I changed windshield wipers 4 days ago. (Walmart $5 cheapo's only lasted 9 months.)
Boring - I know. It's a Fit!
It's "winter" (63 degrees) here in NE Florida, so I thought I'd check the air in my tires since it's been 6 weeks or so since the last check. Apparently overdue. I added 4 or 5 pounds to each tire, bringing them up to 35 psi. (I like to keep them 2 psi higher than recommended to better even out the wear.)
I put some gas in it yesterday.
I changed windshield wipers 4 days ago. (Walmart $5 cheapo's only lasted 9 months.)
Boring - I know. It's a Fit!
That is why I always buy the beam blades and the best brands to buy is either Bosch Icons or the RainX Latitudes! I Had my last pair for over 6yrs and they still performed better than the cheapies and I promised my Fit I would never go back to the cheap junk ones!
I just bought a Optima Digital 1200 Charger and the Optima Digital 400 Maintainer for my fit so when I'm not driving for long periods of time I can keep the battery charged. I've also gotta go check my tires psi, I haven't driven my Fit for a week!
I play several Reference Song that I knew very well, and immediately I notice compare to my old Sony XM-GS4 power amp, this BRAX NOX4 has:
a. Much LOWER Noise Level
b. The Bass, Midrange, and Treble sounds more Natural and more Pleasant to my ear, almost like my home audio system (I am using B&W 804D3 speaker, Wadia Amp for my home audio system).
c. Even better Imaging, More Revealing, especially in the Lower Level Details
In summary, my car audio system is now PERFECT for my ear (and of course for the eye candy effect ), so finally, I can close this Audio Upgrade Project
Nicked my rear wheel this past weekend. Took a tiny chunk out of the tire as well.
I know how it feels though it didn't hurt the tires on mine I just scratched mine a little deeper then the surface! Here is some pics of mine scratched. I did mine a while ago though.
