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Oil change today at 150,600 miles with 5w-20 synthetic blend.
Dealership says I should come back in 5,000 miles, but the maintenance minder always seems to reach 5-10% in 10,000 miles. Who is right?
I know these cars can burn a quart in 5k -- it was scary to pull the dipstick at 15% and find it dry... added a qt of oil and it only brought the dipstick to the low mark.
Would running 0w-20 full synthetic elongate the change intervals? I'm quite religious about checking the oil on my other cars, but I placed too much blind trust in the Honda maintenance minder this time.
EDIT: Don't know if they drop the car or not... Another option is Eibach springs with Koni sports shocks. Have them on my Accord. Had them on my Civic. Have the shocks on my S2000 paired with S2000 CR springs. Never had a problem!
EDIT: Don't know if they drop the car or not... Another option is Eibach springs with Kon sports shocks. Have them on my Accord. Had them on my Civic. Have the shocks on my S2000 paired with S2000 CR springs. Never had a problem!
The parts dealer said it’s a 40 millimeters drop
Good all year round even in snow
EDIT: Don't know if they drop the car or not... Another option is Eibach springs with Kon sports shocks. Have them on my Accord. Had them on my Civic. Have the shocks on my S2000 paired with S2000 CR springs. Never had a problem!
I didn't know Koni made a kit. I've got Koni STR shocks with RSR springs, and I think they're great. A little harsher than stock, but that's to be expected. I looked up the kit, and it says it comes with Eibach lowering spring, so this should be a pretty good setup.
finally have time for my baby due to lock down, this is my first post in 7 years . . . Fixed her motorized left mirror and made a tutorial video on the process.
The other day was spent replacing a replacement axle, installing camber bolts, and replacing the transmission fluid.
Camber bolts are a hell of an upgrade for $25. My front tires have been rolling over hard in the corners with the outside edge getting pretty well scorched. The car feels much more planted now. I have calculated the setting at 1.2-1.3° degrees. I'll measure it for real when I align it here, soon.
Last weekend I did an axle replacement . I would recommend that both axles be replaced if you have the "dampener" on them at 10 years / 100K unless you live in Arizona or something. I broke my passenger side and was left in the middle of the road. I have a 2009 with 137K miles . I had the shop do the broken one, I did the drivers side myself, because it was not much further off from breaking as well.
Part of the procedure for the drivers side is the ATF drain and fill (2.6 qt) so I did that , and the oil change too .
Last weekend I did an axle replacement . I would recommend that both axles be replaced if you have the "dampener" on them at 10 years / 100K unless you live in Arizona or something. I broke my passenger side and was left in the middle of the road. I have a 2009 with 137K miles . I had the shop do the broken one, I did the drivers side myself, because it was not much further off from breaking as well.
Part of the procedure for the drivers side is the ATF drain and fill (2.6 qt) so I did that , and the oil change too .
Mine's a 2010 MT. The Driver side has no dampener. The problem is that my "Import Direct" replacement axles have been loose out of the box and noisy with undue vibration on the highway. The new one is better than the last, but it still has a slight clunk under a hard mometary load. The other one was clunking all the damn time and both ends were loose as a goose by the time I pulled it.