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It probably doesn't hurt to have it fixed before the boot is torn up more. I'd imagine that if the shock shaft gets exposed, rocks and debris can hit and cause damage to the shaft's surface.
Dirt builds up around the seal and nicks and dings on the shaft all contribute to premature failure. Even decent shocks are relatively cheap.
Glad I'm not the only one! Your method was a much better idea. Too bad I didn't think of it, because it would have been satisfying to remove the screw before using the rotary tool and such.
Oh well, the screw gave loose once I removed the rotor.
I figured, if I'm gonna cut into it anyway, might as well start small. If it had failed, I probably would've done the same thing you did, as I have an angle grinder too.
Were you using an impact drive to get the screw off? Maybe with a normal Phillips head? Those stupid screws use a head that is similar to a Phillips but not actually. I bought a JDM specific driver when I first took mine off. Kept them off too, there's no point to them after leaving the factory.
No, sir. I don't have an impact driver, so I took my chances. However, I did use a #3 bit, which is the correct bit, but I'm not sure if it was a #3 JIS bit.
Funny story, they actually sell those accursed rotor screws on amazon! xD
@Gobbers "I figured, if I'm gonna cut into it anyway, might as well start small." Yeah, I actually tried grinding down the head of the screw to match my 10mm flare nut wrench, but that was really difficult, so I said the heck with it and just ground down the entire thing, as seen in the pictures.
Finally got around to putting on my Thule Traverse square bar roof rack! Picked this up for a steal from a community member, definitely digging the look
Following up on my Civic Si seat install. I would NOT recommend this mod. I'm mechanically inclined, but this was an absolute pain in the ass. After days of drilling, grinding, and bolting the feet from my Fit to the Si seats, I got them in and they do fit nicely. But, the airbag light is on. I'm just bummed because I did everything by the books: unhooked the car battery before I started, swapped out the occupant position sensor computer inside the Si passenger seat with the one from my Fit, swapped one of the white airbag plugs from the Fit driver's seat to the SI seat so everything matched up, and reconnected the battery only after everything was installed. Not sure what the problem is, but fuck it, I'm driving without airbags for a while. I'm done with this project.
This happened to me when i swapped my 2009 seats for 2010 stock seats. I ended up taking it to the dealer for something else they were running diagnostics on (airbag recall). Turns out each seat sensor (passenger seat) is calibrated to the controller individually. So i paid them some $$ ($150 if I recall correctly) and they calibrated my airbag seat sensor. Easiest money I've ever spent. Don't mess with safety. On the upside, I verified with Honda America that the airbags will fire even if the lights are on and the sensor isn't calibrated but the car would have failed inspection.
New to the Fit scene. Purchased a 2011 Sport that has lived a very easy life (until now). Easy stuff out of the way, windows tinted and 1" spacers installed. Everything else is stock. Drooling over all the cool mods. I need to drive the Fit for a while to learn it's personality before I start anything big. Lowering springs and rear sway bar are at the top of the list. Upgraded stereo for better sound and backup camera will follow shortly. Thule roof rack next Spring/Summer.
Before I learned about DIY car maintenance stuff, I used to take my first car to an oil change shop. They definitely tightened my drain bolt with an impact driver. I only realized this when I decided to do the next oil change myself and had to use a long cheater bar to loosen it. It was wayyyyy over-torqued.
Finally fixed a stuck seat rail. It's been that way since I purchased the car a year and a half ago. Not a difficult job. Still a pain to dislodge some random junk. Seat out Offending rail Offending junk
Glad I'm not the only one! Your method was a much better idea. Too bad I didn't think of it, because it would have been satisfying to remove the screw before using the rotary tool and such.
Oh well, the screw gave loose once I removed the rotor.
It is not a Phillips screw it is a Japanese industrial standard looks very similar,
makes an impact driver to remove those. You can also use two ballpin hammers, put the round part on the screw head and hit the The other hammer, ballpin hammers can be hit without exploding they are made to hit metal; DO NOT use a regular hammer to do this they will shatter, third method is to drill out the head of the screw. Non of these methods will damage the rotor or hub.
