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I've seen some pretty positive experiences with Tein struts with and without swift springs. Maintains ride comfort but let's you chuck it into an Apex and have it stick. Progress RSB is a definite must.
Tein struts? I didnt know they make struts. I was initially going for Koni Orange but I didnt want it to be too soft. I also only want a moderate drivable drop.
perkiddoh
I run BC coilovers and other than being a bit rough on bad roads they seem like a great choice. Of course it's hard to recommend because i've never run anything else aftermarket on my Fit.
In keeping with the internet's policy of always posting conflicting information I have this to offer. My chassis was setup by a guy who makes a living tuning chassis for the track and he would tell you that you don't need a sway bar (internet policy of conflicting info hereby adhered to) if your chassis is setup correctly.
perkiddoh
I run BC coilovers and other than being a bit rough on bad roads they seem like a great choice. Of course it's hard to recommend because i've never run anything else aftermarket on my Fit.
In keeping with the internet's policy of always posting conflicting information I have this to offer. My chassis was setup by a guy who makes a living tuning chassis for the track and he would tell you that you don't need a sway bar (internet policy of conflicting info hereby adhered to) if your chassis is setup correctly.
I have forgotten what the spring rates are. Below are some photos that may help you out. On the other hand, since the spring rates are very specific to my chassis (wheels, tires, suspension setup and modified vehicle weight) I doubt my spring rates would be relevant for some other Fit. But I don't really know enough about it to say definitely.
And I'm not sure what you are asking about the calipers. The calipers are mounted using the bolt holes on the suspension. If memory serves, the flange that holds the rotor is a custom fab part. Does that answer the caliper question? rear shock and coil, white label reads Honda 07-14 Fit (GE) R front coil over, coil section front coil over, lower section rear flange and hub
Yea the custom piece u have on the rear is what i was curious about. Did tcs fabricate it? What size rear rotors?
Sorry for so many brake questions...im still planning what to do with mine after i finish rounding off my interior and suspension. after the brakes i plan to join the 2.4 squad.
Im going on week 4 of my wait for my bc coilovers. Hopefully ill get mine in the next couple of weeks.Glad to hear that u like yours. I see Lots of work in your car..would love to see full car pics.
Yea the custom piece u have on the rear is what i was curious about. Did tcs fabricate it? What size rear rotors?
Sorry for so many brake questions...im still planning what to do with mine after i finish rounding off my interior and suspension. after the brakes i plan to join the 2.4 squad.
Im going on week 4 of my wait for my bc coilovers. Hopefully ill get mine in the next couple of weeks.Glad to hear that u like yours. I see Lots of work in your car..would love to see full car pics.
Yes, TCS did the fabrication. And while my K24 makes plenty of power, I wish I hadn't used a K24Z7 because if I want more power (or if I sell it and the buyer wants to be able to upgrade power) the potential is just not there. Choose wisely.
Seems the only thing there are no shortages of are shortages. The whole world seems to be in a shortage cycle. Maybe we all just want too much stuff.
I'm happy to share full cars pics. I'll post some after the holiday.
Glad to see there’s still activity with the fits. Been a long time coming but I’m starting to work on the fit more.
Did oil change, air filter, and changed my fogs to morimoto xb. Probably going to change over to prefacelift front end at some point so I’ll have to figure out how to fit them into the older housings.
Gathered almost all the parts to start my retrofit soon. Cant wait to get this done
How are you guys/gals cleaning and protecting engine parts? I want to use an engine clean product that also seals bare metal parts & or connectors. I am not sure what to cover to prevent water from getting into where it shouldn't. Suggestions & products from the experts please.
Linda
PS Keep up the great work.
How are you guys/gals cleaning and protecting engine parts? I want to use an engine clean product that also seals bare metal parts & or connectors. I am not sure what to cover to prevent water from getting into where it shouldn't. Suggestions & products from the experts please.
Linda
PS Keep up the great work.
. It covers just about any situation you can run into while cleaning your engine.
In my engine bay parts that are rusted get removed and either replaced or painted with rust adhering paint. Something like Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer or Krylon Rust Tough Enamel. If you can't remove the part, tape it off and paint it in place. Be careful about over spray. And check out youtube for painting engine part instructional videos. Good luck.
Fixed the "fallen strut" issue, allowing me to use the Fit for work, while my brother uses my HR-V.
Man, $50 is painful for a piece of rubber with a bit of metal. But I needed it quickly... so it is, what it is.
People and their damn opinions. My brother was like, I could just put a big washer on top and use the same broken part.... I'm like: No, like I told dad who thought the same thing, doing that won't give me enough room to secure the top nut. My father's other "idea" was to add a washer and secure that to the rubber smaller nuts & bolts. And I told him, you can't do that, because the rubber sits flat on the sheet metal housing and the other rubber grommet, meaning there's no room for the bolt heads... unless you want the ONLY contact between the top and bottom to be those bolt heads. And that's just gonna bend the thin ass sheet metal and completely mess everything up.
Yeah, I took the cowl and windshield wiper motor off to work on the strut... because there's not enough usable room to do the job in a quick enough time. My brother claims he wouldn't because he doesn't have the time I do. I'm like, no... if you don't take the cowl off, the job takes MUCH LONGER, because you have almost no room to move the ratcheting wrench. If you don't use a ratcheting wrench you have to pull off whatever box/open end wrench to move it, after barely moving a few degrees. And that is time consuming, assuming you can even put it back on in the next position. It's faster to take off the cowl and wiper motor, to give yourself many, MANY times more degrees of movement. In addition to getting any kind of Allen wrench to hold the strut. I know this, because I did it the "lazy" way during one of the times I replaced the strut and springs... and swore I wouldn't do that again.
Goobers, i feel you. i have the opposite problem in my family, they all just say "take it to the shop". At $125/hr plus inflated parts prices, throw in a 50/50 chance that the shop breaks or screws-up something or does a bad job and no! I'll fix it myself so at least if it's f#$2ed up I'll know it and only have the guy in the mirror to blame. Years ago I quit going to oil change places after I had two different cars with messed up drain plugs, one of which required a new oil pan, of course the "shop didn't do it, it was like that". Well then it was the last shop. And I got a call recently from the guy I sold my BMW to. The shop told him the drain plug was stuck. I hand torqued that myself. It probably got "stuck" when he the shop's guy ran his impact wrench on it the wrong way. End of rant.
And I didn't even know it was possible to mess with the strut if you don't take off the cowl.
But the good news is that you gotter done and your brother could use the HR-V. Oh wait...
Tell your brother to call an uber. :-)
Last edited by imn2it; Jul 8, 2021 at 01:31 PM.
Reason: add smiley face
