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A bunch of stuff that I forgot to update. No longer missing the rear passenger window garnish.
Landed some leather covers and door panels for $150 on eBay Post install J’ s rear strut tower bar, weather tech mats, and my dog 🐶 (yes, I have dog seat covers.) More JDM goodies JDM hazard button. Laile Beatrush installed. Feeling lazy to drop the subframe and install the Spoon sway bar.
Waiting on few more things before installing the Mugen power folding mirrors
Last edited by mikeymanifest1; Nov 17, 2021 at 12:27 AM.
Hello again! I’ve done couple things the last time I posted.
The big one is installing jdm side mirrors with the turn signals. I was gonna go with spoon replica mirrors at first but changed my mind because of how small the mirror was and not being able to adjust the angle from inside. I liked how the mirrors looked on jdm fits and that extra protection it gave when turning so I decided on that. Anyways, I bought the jdm mirror cap from amayaya which they source new from Japan, and led turn signals / connectors from hondapartsnow. And couple things like primary wires / terminal connectors from AutoZone and heatstrink butt connector / wire tap from amazon. It was my first time doing anything electrical and I definitely had some doubts at first. I wasn’t sure which wire on the connector was ground, so ended up doing a 50/50 squid game guess and got it correct lmao. i could have ended up frying things now that I think of it. The hard part of the install really was just routing the wires. Took me 4 hours to install but well worth it .
Switched out out the reverse light in my jdm tail lights with white leds and and also changed headlight side marker lights to leds as well. nothin big here, just aesthetics.
Put my instagram tag on the back window. I might end up removing it.. tacky?
Changed my rusted drum breaks to new black drum brakes. The ones I had before, which I had just changed out 2 months ago rusted out pretty quickly due to not being paint protected. i hated the rusted look on em, made my fit look rice lmao, which isn’t too far off. One issue I ran into was adjusting the shoes brakes correctly. I don’t know what I did but right after putting on the new drum brakes, brake / gas pedal felt hard to press and the acceleration started to feel slow like the brakes were dragging. Couldn’t figure It out so I ended up taking it to a shop get it fixed and issue went away.
I also changed out my spark plugs and coil packs with brand new ones. my fit is only at 80k miles but thought id just change them now. I heard denso ik22 spark plugs provided some extra hp according to some forum posts and was the way to go, but I ended up just buying ngk iridium ones from rockauto. I hate how the spark plugs are all the way in the back of the engine. which honda engineer thought that was a good idea forreal, I had to remove a couple things to reach it. Not hard work but why.. But all said in done, the fit feels more smoother and responsive.
And lastly installed progress rear sway bar. This should have been the first thing i should have done to my fit lol. I don’t track my fit, but i do feel the handling has improved from the less body roll I feel from changing lanes and taking sharp turns. The install was easy. It says you have to remove your rear springs to insert the screws, but I didn’t have too. I just twisted my springs until the mounting holes were clear.
What’s next for my fit? Im not sure.
Last edited by slvrsoul.fit; Nov 17, 2021 at 10:39 PM.
So I can't find OEM molded mudguards for my '12 FIT.
I bought the cheapest generic flat mudguards from Amazon. The guards sure stunk when I took them out of the plastic, and they still do. Some poor chinese slave laborer is probably being slowly poisoned .
I went into overkill with the fasteners - bought stainless steel 3/4 inch,self tapping bolt head screws for the sheet metal at a rip off price of $1.19 a piece. The collared sheet metal screws for the plastic fender liner weren't cheap either.
They look pretty good, got em sticking out like a rallye car.
Next, I want to replace my fog lights with 5000K LEDs,and lemon yellow outside overlay film. I hope I can figure out the stand alone , ( fog lights on), in the hack previously posted. Anyone have any additional tips?
So I can't find OEM molded mudguards for my '12 FIT.
I bought the cheapest generic flat mudguards from Amazon. The guards sure stunk when I took them out of the plastic, and they still do. Some poor chinese slave laborer is probably being slowly poisoned .
I went into overkill with the fasteners - bought stainless steel 3/4 inch,self tapping bolt head screws for the sheet metal at a rip off price of $1.19 a piece. The collared sheet metal screws for the plastic fender liner weren't cheap either.
They look pretty good, got em sticking out like a rallye car.
Next, I want to replace my fog lights with 5000K LEDs,and lemon yellow outside overlay film. I hope I can figure out the stand alone , ( fog lights on), in the hack previously posted. Anyone have any additional tips?
Nik
got a set of unused mud gaurds if you’re still looking for a set
If Honda had made a Fit Si, what would the typical Honda changes for Si trim be? And what other changes would you like to have seen in this mythical beast?
I'll start, Si badges on the left of the front grill and right side of the rear hatch. i-Vtec appliques low on the rear doors.
Any thing goes, 6 ft wing? 18 in wheels? flared fenders? lowered 3" on better suspension?...
If Honda had made a Fit Si, what would the typical Honda changes for Si trim be? And what other changes would you like to have seen in this mythical beast?
I'll start, Si badges on the left of the front grill and right side of the rear hatch. i-Vtec appliques low on the rear doors.
Any thing goes, 6 ft wing? 18 in wheels? flared fenders? lowered 3" on better suspension?...
I think there was one in the UK. Pretty much an RS.
I think there was one in the UK. Pretty much an RS.
I'm not exactly sure what mods Honda did for the RS. As far as I know the RS had rear discs instead of drums and slight suspension mods and a body kit. It's hard to compare because It wasn't until the 2014 RS that RS got more power (as best I can tell), and there was no 2014 model in the US at all. A Honda Si always has a more powerful and sometimes completely different engine, often substantial mods to the suspension, unique wheels and tires (usually larger wheels and tires) and things like a limited slip diff. As far as I know the RS lacked the majority of those changes to make it a Honda Si. But if you know more about the RS I would like to know the specifics between the UK GE RS and the US GE Sport.
GrE8_Fit
Never knew there was a UK Fit Si. Thanks for that. Did a couple hours of research on the web. Seems they are not much more than a few body panels and some suspension tweaks on a standard Fit. So maybe I was hoping for some suggestions on how to make the Fit leap into Si-dom more like the changes to the US Civic Si has over the standard Civics. Or maybe a few suggestions for a Fit Type R. What would you expect Honda might have done to a Fit Sport to make it into a Type R?
Added a battery tender dongle to maintain my battery during the seldom driven cold winter months.
Battery tender connected to the dongle The slightly modified ring terminal is attached to the body ground of the battery. The dongle plug is connected at the top of the pic. Had to cut the original ring terminal off the dongle because it interfered with the red battery terminal cover and was not large enough in diameter to fit the attachment bolt.
At 162K miles I got my first check engine light.and it turned out to be a misfire on number 2 caused by a loose plug. The car had 62K miles since the last plug change and all the other plugs were still tight. It's probably a good idea to retighten #2 after 50K which is easy to do by reaching back without removing the cowling.
At 162K miles I got my first check engine light.and it turned out to be a misfire on number 2 caused by a loose plug. The car had 62K miles since the last plug change and all the other plugs were still tight. It's probably a good idea to retighten #2 after 50K which is easy to do by reaching back without removing the cowling.
Maybe time for new plugs? If you do replace the plugs It might be interesting to measure fuel economy before and after. And for the BMW guy in me, change the coil packs as well, but I don't think that's necessary in a Honda.
The plugs are fine and rated for 100K miles. This is the second set and except for the loosening of number 2 have never misfired enough to set a code. Changing plugs before 100K seems like a waste of time and money.
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