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Hey guys, update from last 7 months:
- valve adjustment
- drain & fill transmission fluid
- upgraded to big brake kit ( 1998 ntegra type r calipers, 2004 acura tsx brake pads, 2008 mini cooper rotors 280mm, 326performance rotor shims )
- tried installing steel braided brake lines from fastline performance but wouldn't seal correctly.
- purchased js racing stellar v tail lights
- purchased jdp duckbill spoiler. finally was able to contact john from jdp in november.
- purchased fortune auto coilovers with swift spring upgrade (8k front / 6k rear) & adjustable camber plate for a great deal. been waiting for 3 months and hasnt arrived yet lol
- added waterproof mesh cover for my cold air intake. car would have problems dying on idle when it rained heavily, suspected my intake was not getting enough air and sucking up water lol
- removed red jdm emblem and replaced with black plastidiped oem emblem.
- hardwired adjustable led footwell lights to a 5 pin magic switch that lights up
- purchased spoon mirrors but ended up selling
- replacement window weather trim
- replacement cabin filter to a higher quality one with more airflow.
- upgraded to jdm 3rd brake light. this one has 10 leds vs 6.
- jdm hazard light
- purchased yonaka catback exhaust but ended up selling
- rear wiper delete but ended up reverting back lol
- jdm rear wiper mod
- sold abunch of parts ( honda fit shuttle grill, jdp carbon diffuser, visual garage mark 2 sharkfin, clear crystaleye.jp taillights, smoke crystal eye taillights, ge6 kouki taillights, hks hi-power exhaust, yonaka catback exhaust, spoon mirrors, mudgaurd kit)
will add photos and more details later!
Last edited by slvrsoul.fit; Dec 13, 2022 at 08:50 PM.
I'm new to the fit community, but not to Hondas. Just picked up an 09 Sport A/T w/ 90k for commuting purposes, and am knocking out all the neglected maintenance items. Valve adj, plugs, filters, trans filter, trans fluid, brake flush, lube caliper pins, winter tires, etc. So far I am liking the fit, not loving it. Too much cheap interior.
Nice! I'd love to get your feedback on those shocks.
I've got a couple hundred miles on them now, and think I can confirm the original shocks were getting tired. Its tough for me to judge the original or KYB shocks performance, as the only other car we have with a short wheel base is a 94 Miata. With the engine sitting out in front of the front axle on the Fit, I can imagine even with high end suspension controlling motion over raised expansion joints can be tough.
But so far so good. Installation was easy and at just $400 for everything not too bad on the wallet.
I also have them on front of my 07 Lexus GX470, and like them. I have the upgraded Bilsteins on the rear because I tow often.
Dang that car looks well maintained! I have those same rear shocks sitting in my garage waiting for me not to be lazy and get them installed.
Yeah thanks! Looking at the history it lived in Florida until 2020, at that time it was sold it had 50k miles. The second owner didn't do anything to it other then oil changes from what I can tell, and put 40k miles on it in 2.5years. I went through it with a fine tooth comb and got it back into tip top shape. We plan to have it be our sons first vehicle, and he is currently 11yo.
Rear shocks are super easy if the bolts aren't seized into the bushings. Not sure if that is still a common issue with Honda bolts/bushings.
Isn't that what people are thinking Honda's Green oil basically is?
No idea. I have not heard about Honda's green oil before.
My thoughts so far with the 0W-16 oil is that it's probably more suitable if you drive the Fit in city traffic alot and this is where you'll probably see significant increased fuel efficiency with the engine running most of the time at lower RPM. I do mostly high speed (highway) traffic more than city so I plan to switch back to 0w-20.
No idea. I have not heard about Honda's green oil before.
My thoughts so far with the 0W-16 oil is that it's probably more suitable if you drive the Fit in city traffic alot and this is where you'll probably see significant increased fuel efficiency with the engine running most of the time at lower RPM. I do mostly high speed (highway) traffic more than city so I plan to switch back to 0w-20.
Yeah it's interesting that in Europe they seem to have a lot more flexibility on the oil used, vs very clear direction in the states on what oil should be used. Either way I will be using the Pennz platinum high mileage for my first oil change on our new to me 09 fit w/ 90k.
No idea. I have not heard about Honda's green oil before.
My thoughts so far with the 0W-16 oil is that it's probably more suitable if you drive the Fit in city traffic alot and this is where you'll probably see significant increased fuel efficiency with the engine running most of the time at lower RPM. I do mostly high speed (highway) traffic more than city so I plan to switch back to 0w-20.
Yeah it's interesting that in Europe they seem to have a lot more flexibility on the oil used, vs very clear direction in the states on what oil should be used. Either way I will be using the Pennz platinum high mileage for my first oil change on our new to me 09 fit w/ 90k.
My father ran 10w30 in everything regardless of specs. He thought thinner oil would reduce engine longevity. My college shop teacher (along with every bit of info I could find) told me that the bulk of engine wear occurs at start-up. Makes sense assuming a cold start, because most of the oil will have drained into the pan and not be coating everything when the engine kicks on. With that in mind, thinner oil should be advantageous. Then there's the viscosity temp chart to stare at while your manufacturer tells you to use stuff rated for -30° weather. Your guess is as good as mine regarding who to listen to.
The other day my fit started chirping while my mother was running errands in it. I told her to pull the oil dipstick and see if it goes away. It did, then it came back. I'd dealt with this before and resolved it by changing the PCV valve which was gummed - but that was only a couple months ago.
This time I figured I'd check out my knock-off T-Rev. It always looked spotless inside so I never dug deep.
Well... The reed valves had flared out and I guess that was preventing pressure from leaving the crank case. I took them off and flattened them with my knipex mechanics wrench (it's like a portable smooth-jawed mini-vise.. that's prolly my main use for it 😂 and put them back in. Ensured they laid flat. Added fresh o-rings where I could with what I had and VOILA! Le fault is no more!
I'd long worried what kind of trouble that valve might cause long-term. Now after some 40k miles I finally know. Was NOT about to try and find replacement reed valves. I'd sooner get a feeler gauge or two and cut down appropriately thick tabs with sheet metal sheers.
and put them back in. Ensured they laid flat. Added fresh o-rings where I could with what I had and VOILA! Le fault is no more!