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Hey everyone, just bought a 2010 manual earlier in the week and I'm hoping someone can help me identify these wheels; one was damaged so I'd like to complete the set. They're stamped 4x100 500kg and 15x61/2J. Offset is 38.
It's too late for you now, but it's possible to install the tag bracket upside down, so that it doesn't screw through the front bumper cover. Upside down tag bracket installation
do you have a scanner that can check what code its throwing out?
FYI the airbags still work, its just complaining something is wrong
also, pics of setas installed?
Just as a heads up, as far as I know when that airbag light is on, the passenger side will not deploy. I am running 08 Si seats in my 13, swapped the driver side position sensor over, and the control unit. Airbag light is on, and I thought it was just needing to be recalibrated. Took it to the dealer and the system is not communicating at all. No airbag deployment as a result.
I need to acquire a '13 seat (not a 09-11) and take the weight sensors out, and the ODS. I'm not sure about the side airbags.
Not so much "what did I do today" so much as it is "what I finally finished"... 3 months ago was my 1 year anniversary with this GE8 and I knew everything I wanted to do to it.
Bought cheapo sport rims off of Craigslist and dipped them.
Put bigger brakes + drilled/slotted rotors on it.
Koni orange struts and shocks.
Eibach Pro Kit lowering springs.
Tanabe Medallion Touring exhaust.
Progress rear sway bar.
Vredestein Quatrac 5XLs all around.
Today I finally got the tires put on... and realized I'm not at all satisfied with the wheels, so I'm going to strip the dip off of them and maybe just rattlecan them something more metallic colored. I've got a dent on the rear from getting hit and run in a bank parking lot that I need to pull out, and then I'd like to get it detailed and paint corrected if there's another stimulus package later.
Cut out the diffuser portion of the bumper the other day, removed my mud guards too. My diffuser was cracked in a way that couldn't be fixed, and I didn't feel like spending hundreds on a new bumper or aftermarket diffuser/lip to cover it up. Looks like I'm gonna have to clay bar where the mud guards were, maybe compound and polish as well
several types of sandpaper and three coats of clear coat. I followed the instructions from a YouTube video. Worked great. I’d highly suggest letting the clear coat dry a full 24hours. I was anxious and only let it dry for 18hours and had issues when I did the final sanding and waxing, mainly with some minor streaking. Still a huge improvement and is supposed to last longer than those restoration kits you can buy. I think I maybe spent like $30-$40 for everything. Make sure your hood and windshield is covered when applying the clear coat to prevent and overspray
So, I decided to get these in 75 durometer despite reports being generally bad. In short, the right side mount fouls the chassis and requires clearancing. My ex kept her grinder despite never using it so I was forced to use a dull hacksaw blade. Once it sat properly on the frame, it was misaligned a good deal. Throwing everything together loose then tightening things down made it easy enough. The center isolator bolt is also a smidge short. Also an annoyance. The rest of the mounts installed easily and without drama.
The car feels very racecar like at idle. It vibrates through the seat and steering wheel and the engine reverberates and resonates throughout the cabin. The car immediately feels more solid, as you can no longer feel the engine leaping about at startup. It feels like the engine is an integral part of the chassis instead of dead weight bouncing about. The car is much smoother on acceleration and deceleration and actually cruises down the highway much as normal. Under 3K rpm the engine booms throughout the cabin and also under load up to 4K RPM. Cruising at 3K and under is rather unpleasant noise wise. If you love hearing your exhaust and amplified engine sounds you'll be just fine. Loose items in the glovebox or in the plastic pockets and storage areas will buzz at various RPMs.
Minus:
• Increased noise at low RPM/under load
• Loose items will vibrate noisily at various RPMs
• High vibration and noise at idle
• Right side mount needs notched for fitment
Plus:
• Connected feeling engine
• No wheel hop/engine monkey motion under acceleration/deceleration
• Shifts effortlessly and easily under high load conditions
Fouls chassis here Misaligned once fixed Bolt just a smidge short
Yesterday I undertook the front strut bar installation.
The cowl clips all broke but one. All were salvageable but one. While I was at it the metal undertray came out so I could check plug tightness. They were all good, although the #3 coil pack showed signs of previous "scorching."
The strut bar came with generic instructions that were useless for this application. Online it says some trimming of plastics is necessary...I found that not to be the case...though the metal undertray did just kiss the strut bar...so I put a fat zip tie at that point. Other that that, it is right on top of the brake reservoir cap as well...so it makes a fancy stay for that. The cap still rotates freely, but it sure as hell isn't coming off.
The front of the car feels more solid. It's evident under cornering loads that some flex has been eliminated. It's not a dramatic difference, but it's a difference nonetheless.
I've also found an annoying buzz at around 3k RPM from somewhere in the passenger door after the engine mount install. I'll have to have a passenger isolate that so I can put a fix to it.
Useless Sans cowl Washer go here Little close Fanciest reservior cover stay Real racecar stuff Shiny
Scorched coil
Last edited by Rick_a; Sep 3, 2020 at 06:49 PM.
Reason: Add pic
I'm new to the forum. Here is what I just installed this morning an UltraRacing C-Pillar bar. Bought it on sale from a supplier in Australia. Rear view vision. UltraRacing C-Pillar bar.
It has made some difference. I don't hear rattles or vibrations from the spare tyre wheel well area as much. Combined with everything else I have bolted (UR rear sway, carbing rear brace & rigid collars) the rear is very planted ( no much body roll). For the price I paid AUD$116 delivered brandnew I'm pretty happy with it. The bar is very stiff no flex when I pull on it. That's what I tell myself to justify the purchase lol.
Earlier today, I tried removing the transmission drain bolt to drain the transmission fluid, but twisted the end of the extension right off when trying to loosen the bolt. I cannot get my breaker bar in there because of low clearance from the ground. Also, I was working on changing my brakes, but I also stripped one of the dang rotor flat screws (the two that they put on at the factory that only need 7 lbf-ft), so I cannot get the front-driver side rotor off. I need to go buy one of those bits that drills through stripped screws. Moreover, I tried removing the brake line from the caliper, so as to remove and clean the heck out of the caliper, and I used a type of vice grip, which does not apply enough pressure to the brake line to close it off from leaking brake fluid. Lovely. Furthermore, I ordered a pair of speed bleeders a few weeks back and tried installing them, but they don't even fit. Lastly, and the most catastrophic, I got brake fluid on my gloves, which I did not notice, and I touched the handle of my torque wrench and it wiped the numbers off the handle. I have to guesstimate the right lbf-ft now.
Added Tag Bracket
Nice!