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  #61  
Old 06-06-2014, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Wanderer.
Hey i'm glad this got bumped. Two questions De

1. Could you just torch the OEM bushings out?

2. What's the specs on the RPF1? Sorry if this was covered elsewhere.
1. Which bushing?

2.16x7 4x100 43mm Offset

Enkei RPF1 16x7 4x100 43mm Offset Silver Wheels - 379-670-4943SP - SakariMotorsports.com
 
  #62  
Old 06-06-2014, 03:27 PM
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1. The steering rack bushings

2. Oh for some reason I thought they were x8... how do the 225 feel on the x7?
I was going to get a pair of x8 for 225s but if x7 feels good that's even
easier.
 
  #63  
Old 06-06-2014, 03:43 PM
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1. The rack is electric... heat and electric components don't mix. They were designed to be pressed out.

2. They fit and feel fine, I suggest a 225/45R16. Remember I have camber bolts, roll-center adjusters, coil-overs, modified wheel wells... combined prevent rubbing. I see some people on the forum rubbing on 205s...

For my next set of tires I'm going with a TOYO Proxes R1R: Front 225/45R16 and Rear 205/50R16.
 

Last edited by De36; 06-06-2014 at 03:49 PM.
  #64  
Old 06-06-2014, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by De36
1. The rack is electric... heat and electric components don't mix. They were designed to be pressed out.

2. They fit and feel fine, I suggest a 225/45R16. Remember I have camber bolts, roll-center adjusters, coil-overs... combined prevent rubbing. I see some people on the forum rubbing on 205s...

For my next set of tires I'm going with a TOYO Proxes R1R: Front 225/45R16 and Rear 205/50R16.
Ah good point about the electric rack. Guess i'm just vintage

I rubbed on 205 +40 under extreme compression but I have nothing but lowering springs and almost dead stock shocks (new shocks coming) and stock camber, but I just had to trim the fender liner. I think with +45 and camber bolts I could clear 225/50/15 even if I have to use a mallet in places.

Thanks!
 
  #65  
Old 06-21-2014, 04:08 PM
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My next projects

Wrapping my Weapon R header with DEI exhaust wrap. And Filling the front control arms. I will post progressive pics.


 
  #66  
Old 06-21-2014, 04:14 PM
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By-by clutch delay valve

Swapping clutch masters to rid myself of the delay valve. The master is for a 2004 Civic EX 1.7L ($36 at Napa).

Fit Clutch Master (borrowed pic)


Civic Clutch Master
 

Last edited by De36; 06-21-2014 at 04:16 PM.
  #67  
Old 06-21-2014, 08:16 PM
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Looking forward to hearing about that clutch master cylinder swap. That is one of the last things on my list.
 
  #68  
Old 06-21-2014, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Fast1one
Looking forward to hearing about that clutch master cylinder swap. That is one of the last things on my list.
At the track the clutch slips a lot due to this valve. At first I thought it was a weak OEM pressure plate.
 
  #69  
Old 06-21-2014, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by De36
At the track the clutch slips a lot due to this valve. At first I thought it was a weak OEM pressure plate.
It looks like a bolt on affair. Is that true? Please document the difficulty level and time required. I'll be doing this on the street in front of my house. Lol.
 
  #70  
Old 06-22-2014, 03:12 PM
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2004 Civic EX Clutch Master Cylinder aka: Delay Vale Remove

Originally Posted by Fast1one
It looks like a bolt on affair. Is that true? Please document the difficulty level and time required. I'll be doing this on the street in front of my house. Lol.
Yes, the 2004 Civic EX CMC is a bolt on, the master are almost identical. I've seen other guys use a 99 Civic master, do not use the 99 CMC!!! They are not close enough, you will create a headache for yourself. Here's the DIY on the 99 CMC:


https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...elete-diy.html


2004 Civic EX CMC:









The only minor mod is to very slightly bend the hard line. It took about an hour. I have a CAI so I didn't have to remove an airbox. Difficultly 1-10... I'd say a 2 or 3. I did this in my drive way.

Once the CMC is bolted down very slightly bend the line at the two RED ARROWS. Until the line is close:




Impression:
Cost $35, Time 1 hr. Well worth the time and money. The pedal is very responsive no more slipping on hard accel.
 

Last edited by De36; 06-22-2014 at 03:18 PM.
  #71  
Old 06-22-2014, 07:05 PM
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Good to hear you're liking the difference. Just saw your PM asking about this.
 
  #72  
Old 06-22-2014, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 555sexydrive
Good to hear you're liking the difference. Just saw your PM asking about this.
I thought I had an issue with my clutch slipping at the track, did a little research after our convo. I never realized the Fit had a "delay valve". Well, problem fixed. I'm still considering the Spec 3 clutch though.
 
  #73  
Old 06-22-2014, 09:55 PM
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Yeah, I sent ITEM9 a JDM piece, but he just PMd me on the CR-Z forum and he said it is going to be complicated compared to the US CMC, but he has some ideas. Hopefully he can accomplish it. I might need to check on the Civics here and see if they are similar to the Fit just in case. Can't believe these parts are so different between the 2 models and I am attributing it to the LHD and RHD setups. Oh well.

Go for it, about the clutch.
 
  #74  
Old 06-25-2014, 10:30 PM
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Toyo R1R

Excited to try these tires, Front: 225/45R16, Rear: 205/50R16.

 
  #75  
Old 06-26-2014, 01:13 AM
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what is your rim offset? my 15x6 konig heliums on 205/60/15s rubs under very hard cornering and decent sized bumps over 20mph. I think mine are a 38mm offset, so front is fairly flush, and deciding on whether I should get longer studs and push the rears out 4-5mm
 
  #76  
Old 06-26-2014, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 13fit
what is your rim offset? my 15x6 konig heliums on 205/60/15s rubs under very hard cornering and decent sized bumps over 20mph. I think mine are a 38mm offset, so front is fairly flush, and deciding on whether I should get longer studs and push the rears out 4-5mm
Enkie RPF1 16x7 4x100 43mm Offset

My daily's are 205/45R16, zero rubbing.

My track tires are 225/50R16, which I made fit. They rub on the right hand up hill when the suspension is the most loaded. I bought a new set with a 45 side wall to prevent rubbing. On paper I should have no rubbing.

Between my coilovers (6k,3k), roll center adj, and camber bolts (1.5 deg) I don't have a lot of roll or rubbing with the 225/50.

Having a wider rear track will increase under-steer, if anything you want to widen the front track. Is this for cosmetic purposes? H&R make a fool proof kit with spacers and longer studs called the TrakPlus. I had them on my WRX, they are really nice.

What Are TRAK+ :: trakplus.com



The Pontiac GXP has a similar set up; 2" wider front track & wider tires in the front to (F:250, R:225).
 
  #77  
Old 06-26-2014, 08:30 PM
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Im not worried about understeer, with the Cusco 16mm that mounts a bit further back then the Progress 19mm, I oversteer bad enough to kick and bounce the rear tires. I definitely am interested in a bigger front swaybar and some bushing filling when I get time from the shop I work at.

Coilovers are also on the list, not so much for teh profound improvement in handling, but for the adjustability. I like having a nice cruiise when my right foot isnt in "bat-shit crazy" mode lol
 
  #78  
Old 06-27-2014, 09:39 PM
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Toyo R1R 225 and 205 Installed

The new tires (and other suspension work) the 225/45's do not rub at all. The car wants to rotate more with the 205 rears. It is not at all twitchy at high speeds. And it does not look awkward; having a wider front tire is barely noticeable.



 
  #79  
Old 06-27-2014, 09:50 PM
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I like that extra thick sidewall that comes out to the edge of the rim. Extra stiffness never hurts!
 
  #80  
Old 06-28-2014, 08:54 AM
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Did the Civic 2004 cmc replacement yesterday, BIG improuvement from oem, took me around 2hrs,taking my time not stressing and over a couple of cold ones.
Thanks for sharing this with us.
 


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