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Hey whats your opinion on 8 inch wheels on a Ge. would it hurt the cars acceleration? I'm running rpf1 16x8 +38 with some 225/45... Would it make the car slower on accelerating?
Yes, a larger or wider (aka heavier) wheel and tire package will decrease straight line acceleration. There are plenty of articles online that test and prove this theory. It is the same relationship as a lighter flywheel called rotational mass or inertia. Inertia is the resistance for an object to move.
There are to major factors that prevent a wheel from spinning up quickly; the weight of the wheel and the height of the wheel. It's a little more complex than this equation, but you can get the idea. This equation assumes that the wheel has no thickness and is a finite ring.
The equation is
I = m*r^2
I = moment of inertia (kg m2)
m = mass of wheel (kg)
r = radius of wheel (m)
Heavier tires and wheels will also increase un-sprung weight. This translates into a decrease in handling characteristics.
The brakes are also effected. The more weight that is spinning the more momentum. This translates into longer braking zones and higher temps.
Conclusion: lighter wheel and tire packages are better. There is a such thing as too light, but none of us have that type of budget to ever see that problem.
My track wheels are RPF1:
16x7 (13.2 lbs)
My track tires are R1R:
Front=225/45R16 (23.5 lbs ea)
Rear=205/50R16 (22 lbs ea)
Yes, a larger or wider (aka heavier) wheel and tire package will decrease straight line acceleration. There are plenty of articles online that test and prove this theory. It is the same relationship as a lighter flywheel called rotational mass or inertia. Inertia is the resistance for an object to move.
There are to major factors that prevent a wheel from spinning up quickly; the weight of the wheel and the height of the wheel. It's a little more complex than this equation, but you can get the idea. This equation assumes that the wheel has no thickness and is a finite ring.
The equation is
I = m*r^2
I = moment of inertia (kg m2)
m = mass of wheel (kg)
r = radius of wheel (m)
Heavier tires and wheels will also increase un-sprung weight. This translates into a decrease in handling characteristics.
The brakes are also effected. The more weight that is spinning the more momentum. This translates into longer braking zones and higher temps.
Conclusion: lighter wheel and tire packages are better. There is a such thing as too light, but none of us have that type of budget to ever see that problem.
My track wheels are RPF1:
16x7 (13.2 lbs)
My track tires are R1R:
Front=225/45R16 (23.5 lbs ea)
Rear=205/50R16 (22 lbs ea)
Why do you ask?
Thanks for the info. I was just curious because an 8 inch wheel is pretty wide.. And I heard somewhere of larger wheels sizing hurting a cars acceleration
No new updates. I haven't been to the track in a while or done any new mods.
I put my cats back on. The Weapon R header is cheap and rusted out within the first two years of having it on the car. I contacted Chris (Sales Manager) at Weapon R and he wouldn't warranty it. I asked if he would sell it to me anew one at cost as a good gesture, he said no. The header would have just rusted out again, I'm better off without that cheap crap on my car.
The rest of the exhaust is rust free, to put it into a frame of reference.
A definite loss of power with the cats, but its much quieter now. Its nice.
yeah, i have seen some weapon r header pipes for sale that looked corroded. I thought it might have just been because north america snows, but sounds like it is more the grade of stainless steel that they use.
So you are running the stock/factory header and cat?
And with your tuning did you just tune for WOT and log RPM and AFR and then make adjustments?
yeah, i have seen some weapon r header pipes for sale that looked corroded. I thought it might have just been because north america snows, but sounds like it is more the grade of stainless steel that they use.
So you are running the stock/factory header and cat?
And with your tuning did you just tune for WOT and log RPM and AFR and then make adjustments?
Correct, it's just carbon steel. Not stainless:
The tune didn't change much, still running at 13.2 AFR at WOT with the stock cats back on.
I recently bought a used SARD header piece for my DC5R, and found out it had a split in the flex joint. Ended up getting it replaced with a Vibrant flex joint which is braided on both the outside and inside ($$ ).
Doug, I'm sure you noticed the greatly improved low-end which makes the car seem faster, but it isn't as the top-end suffers. I've been running the stock secondary as the J's cracked at the flange on a miss shift at Suzuka (3rd to 2nd on the back straight) and immediately the low-end introduced itself as a friend.
Doug, I'm sure you noticed the greatly improved low-end which makes the car seem faster, but it isn't as the top-end suffers. I've been running the stock secondary as the J's cracked at the flange on a miss shift at Suzuka (3rd to 2nd on the back straight) and immediately the low-end introduced itself as a friend.
Chris,
Yes, the stock header produces more torque. It's more fun on the street with the stock header.
The Weapon R header had more top end (that I only used on the track). All around I'm happy the stock header is back on the car. The noise, torque loss, lack of quality, and lack of manufacturer support makes me happy to rid myself of the Weapon R header. I won't be purchasing anymore Weapon R product for my other vehicles. Customer support is huge to me.
That being; I have a GE8 rusted Weapon R header for sale! haha.
This should be the first mod. If you only do one mod, this should be it. I installed this today and it's much quicker throttle responds. Its very easy to install and makes the FIT much more fun to drive. It's like hitting the "sports button" on higher end cars.
You will need these two parts for the install: Controller Part #: 410-A001 ($123 - Amazon) GE8 Harness Part #: 417-A020 ($59 - Ebay)
I love the customer support at Apexi-Cali, they have been great through every install. Jun helped me out with the controller, very knowledgeable and really patient.
Why do you rate the throttle controller so highly?
I have done a lot of different mods, to many different types of cars. I never used a throttle controller on my personal cars before. The FIT lacks that sporty feel, largely due to it's not a sports car and was never meant to track. The throttle responds always bothered me when I heel-toe, especially at the track. It's really slow down shifting on the FIT due to the throttle slow responds. I could see this being beneficial to AutoXers.
Even if you don't heel-toe, I recommend this for a daily driver it puts the car in a short of "sports mode" so to speak, which is a blast. The throttle controller also makes over taking on the high way more responsive. It transforms this grocery-getter in to an enjoyable fun ride.
Many others here have a TC here on the forum, I can't imagine ever driving without it specifically on the FIT. I don't see much of a need on cars like my WRX, the throttle is already very responsive.
Do you have a throttle controller or are you looking to purchase one?
Bumper about the Weapon-R header. I have mine for a couple of months. Well, if mine falls apart I will go back to the T1R header with the stock CAT.
I'm also interested in installing the Sprintex supercharger, but would like T1R header before I dyno it. I hope I can find the T1R for the GE8. If anyone has a link please share.
Going cat-less was a bad choice: it's a waste of money, it's overly loud, the power gain (vs the T1R) is negligible, It's cheap, and Weapon R's customer support was terrible.
I have done a lot of different mods, to many different types of cars. I never used a throttle controller on my personal cars before. The FIT lacks that sporty feel, largely due to it's not a sports car and was never meant to track. The throttle responds always bothered me when I heel-toe, especially at the track. It's really slow down shifting on the FIT due to the throttle slow responds. I could see this being beneficial to AutoXers.
Even if you don't heel-toe, I recommend this for a daily driver it puts the car in a short of "sports mode" so to speak, which is a blast. The throttle controller also makes over taking on the high way more responsive. It transforms this grocery-getter in to an enjoyable fun ride.
Many others here have a TC here on the forum, I can't imagine ever driving without it specifically on the FIT. I don't see much of a need on cars like my WRX, the throttle is already very responsive.
Do you have a throttle controller or are you looking to purchase one?
I was thinking of getting this throttle controller long time ago, but I am always worry if there is malfunction and the throttle stuck open while driving, especially since my car is an automatic...
...I am always worry if there is malfunction and the throttle stuck open while driving...
Have you heard of this happening?
The electronic throttle failure mode is "closed-throttle", not WOT.
My 300ZX was cable driven throttle-body, the cable was old, I was on the highway let off the gas to brake and the throttle cable kept the TB open... I quickly threw it into neutral and pulled off.
The electronic throttle failure mode is "closed-throttle", not WOT.
My 300ZX was cable driven throttle-body, the cable was old, I was on the highway let off the gas to brake and the throttle cable kept the TB open... I quickly threw it into neutral and pulled off.
Hi De36,
I never heard of this happening,
but as with any electronic (even factory one), they might fail,
and since this module is capable of adjusting the throttle response,
in theory it will also capable of making the throttle stay open despite the factory throttle control already order it to close...
but that is just my theory
another thing as I mention above, my car is AT,
so my response to push it into neutral will not be as fast if I am use to shift with MT... I worry if the throttle stuck and I need to go to neutral,
my mind is still not used to shifting to neutral (on AT),
and in dangerous situation every few seconds count...
if I have MT. then most of the time my right hand will have reflect to move the shifter to neutral or just push the clutch and then brake...
if the throttle stuck open...
anyway, I am sure the throttle controller works well in adjusting the response, and for your car with MT, I am sure it is quite safe...
oh, another thing that I worry with AT,
during slow maneuver like parking, if suddenly this unit malfunction,
and it open the throttle too fast while all I need is just moving the car slowly... then I might crash (remember with AT, I can't just push the clutch to disengage)...
Do you have a throttle controller or are you looking to purchase one?
I don't have a throttle controller, but after your comment about them I am now thinking about it.
I dont plan to modifiy my ge8 too much - kinda over dumping money and time into cars (done it all before many times), enjoy just having a new ish stockish car.
But I do appreciate driving feel, and the GE8 is softened up and feels disconnected to satisfy the mainstream (clutch delay, odd throttle feel and throttle hang, electric steering). So i will think about it.
).
