I could machine my own, I'm worried about tuning/MIL.

 

could always rig up a relay to connect to the wiring, so the ecu sees "something" changing when it tests the EGR circuit.

I remember seeing someones clever way of tricking the EGR circuit, but I believe it was on a different Make of car.

 

I could trick the ECU with a resistor. But there isn't a HP gain because the EGR isn't open at WOT. The only advantage would a small gain MPG while cruising and "clean up" under the hood.

 

blocking exhaust heat from hitting the cylinder head would allow less detonation and more advanced timing.


your coolant system wouldnt be working as hard, and you wouldnt have such a hot intake(besides radiator heat)

I think it would be wortha few ponies

 

I had a little time on my hands this weekend, so I played around with the welder.

 

so now you have filled rear axle bushes, filled front control bushes, and now seam welding.


I bet it feels fairly solid now!

 

All mods considered; the car feels really good.

At the track a Camaro SS was trying to chase me down for five laps. Finally I got stuck behind a BRZ that wouldn't let me by and the SS caught me.

Afterwards the Camaro SS gentleman came up to me and said: "I had one hell of a time catching you, when we hit the turns you were gone....". It was a nice complement.

 

Good to hear about a positive domestic driver. Usually its in their nature to hate on anything under 6 cylinders and non-turbo lol

Just proves how a nice suspension setup is sometimes much more useful then straight up power

 

I found a Mugen Pedal set on Ebay for $22 USD shipped... Shady... The gap between the OEM brake and accelerator pedal is ~2.75". I installed the Mugen Pedals and it brought the gap to ~1.75". I would still like it closer so a future project is to heat up and bend the brake arm to get closer.




Side by Side Comparison





Gap

 

Better left foot braking! Or toe-heeling!

 

I'm particularly interested in you VAFC settings and install. How did you have to tune your vehicle (lean it out or richen it up)? Anything special about wiring that I'd need to know when hooking it up with my Fit? Is it straight forward per their instructions?

 

All good questions; you should read my DIY:

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...c-1st-gen.html

 

Here's a couple of short crappy videos my gf took on her iPhone.

Front straight pass

From under the bridge

 

Just Installed.

 

Also just came in. I will send the OEM fly wheel to the machine shop to be lighten to ~12 lbs.

 

If you dont mind me asking, how much was that clutch assembly shipped to you?

Snap some pictures of the flywheel when its finished, Id like to see a good set of pictures for reference when I send my own one in when spring comes around.

 

$416 Shipped:

SPEC Clutch Stage 3 Clutch Kit HONDA FIT

I will thoroughly document the flywheel lightening.

 

I browsed that website. I saw quite a few items that are known to be separate between GD and GE chassis, yet were listed with same part numbers.

I would verify that clutch is indeed GE fitment. Lots of the JDM aftermarket makes separate part numbers. Perhaps finding bolt and spline differences to make certain.

I am not trying to be negative, just writing what I saw, or at least what I think I am seeing/understanding

 

TH is terrible and inaccurate with there fitment listings; unless it's a Mustang, WRX or EVO.

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1077072-post27.html

 

I imagine that confirms it is indeed for the GE, if that post is still accurate for current product offerings.

I would thoroughly enjoy a pucked clutch and light flywheel on this car!