555sexydrive Work In Progress
Well thanks to Lyon posting in another thread about some weight savings he did and then being questioned about it and going back to normal, I had to follow my own words I told him and just went ahead with it.



If you don't use these behemoths go ahead and pull them out. I read the weight in another thread and just kind of dismissed it as a little exaggeration, but I don't think there was any exaggerating going on. The rear seats are incredibly heavy for what they are, but I guess that makes sense in a way because of just that, what they are.
There are just 4 bolts to remove the seats (14mm bolts) and another 3 bolts (also 14mm) to remove the seat belts. It takes no more than about 10 minutes to remove. And if you do need to put them back in, it shouldn't take much longer than that as well, possibly slightly longer getting the holes all lined up so you don't by chance strip the threading.
I just want to go out and beat on it to check the difference in weight. Unfortunately any fun roads are about 50km away from me. So maybe this weekend if the weather will cooperate. So all in all, I have probably shed about 100lbs already with the wheels, buckets and now rear seats out. Not bad at all.



If you don't use these behemoths go ahead and pull them out. I read the weight in another thread and just kind of dismissed it as a little exaggeration, but I don't think there was any exaggerating going on. The rear seats are incredibly heavy for what they are, but I guess that makes sense in a way because of just that, what they are.
There are just 4 bolts to remove the seats (14mm bolts) and another 3 bolts (also 14mm) to remove the seat belts. It takes no more than about 10 minutes to remove. And if you do need to put them back in, it shouldn't take much longer than that as well, possibly slightly longer getting the holes all lined up so you don't by chance strip the threading.
I just want to go out and beat on it to check the difference in weight. Unfortunately any fun roads are about 50km away from me. So maybe this weekend if the weather will cooperate. So all in all, I have probably shed about 100lbs already with the wheels, buckets and now rear seats out. Not bad at all.
Some goodies ordered today...





I requested they be delivered as soon as the site allowed, which is the 12th of April. I've dealt with Laile previously when I had my 5R Teggy and they had great customer service. My floor bar inside the Teggy was built backwards/upside down if that makes any sense. I contacted them and the very next day a new bar arrived with a t-shirt and the other bar was collected by the delivery guy.
I was just searching their site and came across these new bars. Then again not sure how new they are, but first I saw of them and immediately ordered. Turns out they were released in January of this year.
Last edited by 555sexydrive; Apr 16, 2010 at 12:28 PM.
I ordered it right from J's with all the other J's stuff. Honestly I don't remember the cost off hand, but if you get on J's site, you will see the price listed. I don't know why I keep buying anything with the $uck the way it is. hahaha
All those carbon pieces are overlays, but I'm sure you already were aware of this. If it was a straight carbon piece, I wouldn't even want to imagine how much that would cost...TOTEMO TAKAI!!!
All those carbon pieces are overlays, but I'm sure you already were aware of this. If it was a straight carbon piece, I wouldn't even want to imagine how much that would cost...TOTEMO TAKAI!!!
dammmmn, you paid top dollar for that stuff!!! , I can get a double din CF "style" plate for AUD$130 from the dealership and I thought that was still expensive.. I'll have to wait till there are more after market options
Thanks for the reply!
Thanks for the reply!
So the Laile bars came in on Friday night so that meant Saturday morning parts would go on, unfortunately it was raining as well as ice/slush. So at first I put only the floor/b pillar bar in. Then about 11am the sun came out and the ground was drying out so I went out to install the remaining bars. Got most of the front bar installed, took a bit longer than I wanted, because the damn bolt on the passenger side lower arm was not going back in as the alignment was off and the hole on the bar was also not allowing the bolt to go back in. After about 40 minutes tinkering with it all I got the bolt in. I was wanting to watch the F1 practice that started at noon, so I stopped to go upstairs and it was 12:25. That finished at 1pm so it was back downstairs to finish the remaining member bar. Got that on without issue in about 10~15 minutes. Now this would have been easier if I was on a lift for sure versus in the driveway with a floor jack. 
Anyway here are some pics of the 3 pieces installed.








Anyway here are some pics of the 3 pieces installed.







Love the chassis bars. Any noticeable roll difference though? Really wish someone in JP would make a replacement dogbone mount for the engine/trans. After looking at the stock one on a lift its dinky and the mount yeilds very easily to just someone rocking the motor by hand.
Last night I hooked up a VTEC indicator. Just a generic LED tapped into the VTEC sensor from the ECU. Didn't even have to make a hole for it. Since I changed out my stock steering wheel, there were 2 holes in the plastic that were exact sizing for the LED.
I didn't take any pics, yet, but really can't see anything until 5400rpm anyways. Then a bright red light is seen while VTEC is engaged.
If anyone is interested, the VTEC wire is in the middle ECU connector, 2nd row 7th wire in from the left (green/yellow) or if looking at it upside down (or right side up, your take) it would be the 4th row and 5th wire in from the left. There is another green/yellow wire right next to it, so if you do this make sure to get the right one. Also I can't say if the AT is the same as the MT, but I would believe that the VTEC sensor is pinned out the same.
Quick pic from phone on way to work this morning...

Was going to try to take one while the light was activated, but a little bit hard to do because I wasn't blessed with more than 2 hands.
I didn't take any pics, yet, but really can't see anything until 5400rpm anyways. Then a bright red light is seen while VTEC is engaged.
If anyone is interested, the VTEC wire is in the middle ECU connector, 2nd row 7th wire in from the left (green/yellow) or if looking at it upside down (or right side up, your take) it would be the 4th row and 5th wire in from the left. There is another green/yellow wire right next to it, so if you do this make sure to get the right one. Also I can't say if the AT is the same as the MT, but I would believe that the VTEC sensor is pinned out the same.
Quick pic from phone on way to work this morning...

Was going to try to take one while the light was activated, but a little bit hard to do because I wasn't blessed with more than 2 hands.
Last edited by 555sexydrive; May 10, 2010 at 07:15 PM.
Tonight installed the Sabelt Top Formula A harness for Saturday, though not leaving it in as driving around on the street with a full harness is really dumb in my opinion, sure you are safe, but at the same time you can not move to see around things which could put you in an unsafe scenario. Unfortunately I have already owned this one for a little over 4 years and it expires at the end of this year. Sucks because the last 2 years it sat in a box as I couldn't really use it in the S2000. Oh well I'll try to use it as much as possible through this year and I'm sure for small events they aren't really going to look at the tag.
I can hope right?



The last pic, the angle is about 40~42°(as measured by my iPhone), maximum allowed by the FIA is 45°, but ideally it should be about 10°. I now know why J's made their rear belt bar, there are only 3 holes that fit the standard eyebolt, the other 4 holes are a smaller diameter and possibly pitch. Thankfully I had another L mount that I used with 1 of the stock bolts used to bolt the rear seats in. Planned on eventually picking up the J's rear bar. I could of used 1 of the other holes, but 2 of the 3 are lined up more so behind the passenger seat and I didn't like the angle of the straps.
I can hope right?


The last pic, the angle is about 40~42°(as measured by my iPhone), maximum allowed by the FIA is 45°, but ideally it should be about 10°. I now know why J's made their rear belt bar, there are only 3 holes that fit the standard eyebolt, the other 4 holes are a smaller diameter and possibly pitch. Thankfully I had another L mount that I used with 1 of the stock bolts used to bolt the rear seats in. Planned on eventually picking up the J's rear bar. I could of used 1 of the other holes, but 2 of the 3 are lined up more so behind the passenger seat and I didn't like the angle of the straps.
Nothing special really.
A few weeks back, about 3 I guess, I installed a small 8" sub and a 4 channel Class D amp to power it and some front components. I could of went smaller on the box using a sealed design instead of slot loaded port, but I was reminiscing of growing up in Fort Lauderdale and listening to a ton of BASS (the whole reason I even added this small setup) and wanted a little bit more pounding.
Anyways on to the pics from just a few minutes ago...

What am I supposed to be looking at, you may ask...

This of course. A Kicker S8L7 and Kenwood XR-4S. The box sits about 15~20mm up from where the false floor normally sits, but really you can't tell just by looking at it and I have it velcroed to the carpeted box.
This thing really hits pretty damn hard for what it is. One wouldn't believe it was an 8" if they just got into the car and didn't know what was there. My friend at work was actually quite surprised that it sounded the way it does, he knew what I had prior to hearing. The box is about 1.14cuft and I have enough room behind it to store the puncture kit, my socket set and some mechanic gloves. I did add about 35lbs back in, but it is even further back and lower than the rear seats, so not too bad really.
This is just a pic I found on my camera that I forgot I took back in April.

I did order the J's harness bar last weekend when I went to another J's showing at another Super Autobacs in Yokohama. It already arrived, as they called me yesterday, so will pick that up on Saturday and post up pics once I install it. The day prior I ordered the J's 50RS in Titanium (canister and mid-pipe) and unfortunately had I known about the show I would of just ordered it there and saved 5%. With the shit $ saving about $80 would have been nice. No idea when this is actually going to arrive, but I imagine I will be waiting at least 3 weeks to a month.
Recently switched out the T1R lugs for Project Kics. The Kics have locks, which T1R doesn't offer with theirs. Also like the rolled end on the Kics better, but did like the etched gripping on the T1R better than the flat surface of the Kics. And installed the Mugen short shifter. I was going to use the H-Fit aluminum mounts in place of the harder rubber of the Mugen, but then I remembered when I used to have my 5R Teggy, I ordered a brass mount set, but when I went to install I didn't need it as the Integra R already had metal mounts unlike the RSX-S. The feel of the shifter is improved over stock from what I can feel, the spring is a bit stiffer as well compared to stock which takes up some more of the slop (though not that bad stock).
Anyways on to the pics from just a few minutes ago...

What am I supposed to be looking at, you may ask...

This of course. A Kicker S8L7 and Kenwood XR-4S. The box sits about 15~20mm up from where the false floor normally sits, but really you can't tell just by looking at it and I have it velcroed to the carpeted box.
This thing really hits pretty damn hard for what it is. One wouldn't believe it was an 8" if they just got into the car and didn't know what was there. My friend at work was actually quite surprised that it sounded the way it does, he knew what I had prior to hearing. The box is about 1.14cuft and I have enough room behind it to store the puncture kit, my socket set and some mechanic gloves. I did add about 35lbs back in, but it is even further back and lower than the rear seats, so not too bad really.
This is just a pic I found on my camera that I forgot I took back in April.

I did order the J's harness bar last weekend when I went to another J's showing at another Super Autobacs in Yokohama. It already arrived, as they called me yesterday, so will pick that up on Saturday and post up pics once I install it. The day prior I ordered the J's 50RS in Titanium (canister and mid-pipe) and unfortunately had I known about the show I would of just ordered it there and saved 5%. With the shit $ saving about $80 would have been nice. No idea when this is actually going to arrive, but I imagine I will be waiting at least 3 weeks to a month.
Recently switched out the T1R lugs for Project Kics. The Kics have locks, which T1R doesn't offer with theirs. Also like the rolled end on the Kics better, but did like the etched gripping on the T1R better than the flat surface of the Kics. And installed the Mugen short shifter. I was going to use the H-Fit aluminum mounts in place of the harder rubber of the Mugen, but then I remembered when I used to have my 5R Teggy, I ordered a brass mount set, but when I went to install I didn't need it as the Integra R already had metal mounts unlike the RSX-S. The feel of the shifter is improved over stock from what I can feel, the spring is a bit stiffer as well compared to stock which takes up some more of the slop (though not that bad stock).
Last edited by 555sexydrive; Jul 1, 2010 at 08:15 AM.



