AFRICAN HOT is what I like to call it. Uggg

 

I drove my Fit off the lot on Friday as it took nearly two weeks to get (I Had to have Blue). The first tank with empty weekend nothing miles got 31 MPG. I filled it up this morning at my normal station (Sheetz) and then filled it up at the same station today (same pump). I calculated 40.12 MPG. That is on my nearly 80 mile (one way) commute with about 72 of those miles (again one way) being interstate. I am very happy, as that was with 70 mph driving with the AC on this afternoon (not this morning, as the garage kept the car cool overnight and it was comfy on the way to work). I did nothing crazy, and still got the 40.12MPG. I am going to try some of the other techniques on the next few and see what I can get.

Overall... I am very happy. It only cost me $13 to got to work and back, down from $22 with my old "beater" Pontiac. I love it!!!!

Mike

 

Nice, You're likely to do better once the engine is broken in. Keep air pressures up if you can as well.

Unfortunately I just checked my mileage and got 25 mpg on my last tank doing some short trips and some highway in traffic. This is my normal mpg and I have about 5000 miles on my Sport AT.

A far cry from your mpg.

 

Mike Did you order a ScanGage II yet?

 

Not yet... I opted for a new Aerospace Vac. Pump instead.. lol. Gotta keep the race car happy first. Also had to order a new "spare" electic shifter solenoid.

I plan on getting the SG soon.

 

What is FAS?

 

Forced Auto-Stop. From the CleanMPG, An authoritative source on fuel economy and hypermiling glossary:

FAS

*Could be dangerous if not done right, possibly illegal*

Forced Autostop: A Honda hybrid will AS (Autostop) in various scenario’s although it is very limiting to a given condition. To high a speed, to cold, not enough SoC (state of Charge), not enough speed since last AS, Defrost or A/C on except for the AH and HCH-II in specific conditions, etc. will not allow AS … Forcing an AS in any vehicle (other then an HSD equipped hybrid), aka Fas , takes these limits out of the equation. Shift to N, let the Tach stabilize, key back to IG-I (shuts down the ICE and electronics), key back to IG-II to reboot the electronics and coast to a stop or pre-determined lower speed depending on conditions. Recover by starting up ICE via key to IG-III, release to IG-II, and engage transmission with a rev match to continue on your way. Pro’s include a very noticeable increase in FE over any short distance trip and is required in a few areas of the US as well as much of Europe, ie. sitting at a stop sign for > 15 seconds or at a stop for > 5 minutes … Con’s include powerless coast, power brake assist is lost after a few uses, power steering is lost although at speed, you do not need it, is illegal in some locales, and possibly both gear reduction starter from excessive ICE starts and pre-mature wear from re-engagements of the transmission at speed.

 

Hello, i browsed through this whole thread and didnt find someone who posted up where they mounted their scan gauge and cable routing/hook up.
Would it be possible for some people to do that? I'm kind of interested in getting one, only if it is able to be placed somewhere practical
Thanks in advanced.

It's amazing how many MPG people are obtaining on here! I'm coming from a world full of V6's and simply getting over 20mpg city has been astounding to me.

 

#152
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/eco-...hooling-8.html

#224
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/eco-...ooling-12.html

I can recommend a good eye Dr as well.

 

Mine is just like the one in #224, except I mounted it lower below the "domes" for the HVAC controls. I used the left two domes, as the middle one is slightly lower than the outers, so the SG won't sit flat between all three. Downside to that location is it interferes with some drink cups or bottles. Mainly tall ones, but forget anything like the 44oz cups you can get. I figured that I'd use the dash lights and HVAC controls more than the drink holder, and that's what drove my choice.

HF

 

Thanks a bunch...haha. I didnt get your joke at first, perhaps you can recommend a good brain replacement facility too! haha.

I thought about both locations...neither look awefully attractive. I guess i'll have to think on this some more. but thanks again!
I know i could look under the car...but since you are so helpful, is the OBDII port on the pass or driver side? I'm traditionally a toyota kinda guy, and what i've discovered is honda is kinda just flipped. So...im assuming the port is on the passenger side. haha

 

It's below and to the right of the steering wheel i.e., above driver's right knee. The mount I showed on top of the steering column seemed the best option to me because it's easy to bundle the extra cord with a zip tie and run it behind the plastic / up through the steering column and out right behind the SG. In other words, no one will see the cord at all. If you feel like disconnecting the SG ever, it works. I have the cord scrunched in there by the steering wheel a little so it doesn't fall back through. Pictures inside the steering column are pretty much worthless since it's too dark and there's barely any opening to easily get at. I had to crawl upside down, with head under the wheel and a nice bright flashlight to see what was what and feed the cord up. Tip: send a piece of string down from the top corner of the column, tie it around the cord and then pull it back up.

 

I'm getting super low MPG readings and I've tweaked everything on the Scan gauge and I can't figure out what's wrong. I tried calibrating the gas tank but I'm having a 50% difference.

This is the info I have in my Scangauge- 10 Gallons
Engine : 1.5L
Fuel cut off: 17


Anything else I should be tweaking?

 

Set the fill calibration back to 0%. When you raise it it lowers the MPG reading artificially. Ps0nq had good advice to leave it at factory settings. It won't always be exact but mine comes within 0.5mpg of what I calculate when I fill to full based on car's trip ODO.

 

So I guess I should leave the fill up alone?

 

You do want to hit Fillup-Done each time you fill, so the trip 'puters reset, but leave the gallons at whatever it says (even if it's wrong) so that your calibration is at or very close to 0%. You might need 2 fills before you get it is totally reset. When I messed this up I just did a full reset on the SG and then reset the settings.

Hope this helps.

 

I'll try that, thanks!

 

I reseted the unit. Everything looks pretty good so far. Thanks dyussen.

 

The only time I have seen a SG be far off on the fuel side was when the owner did heavy P&G and FAS and it was not close to 50%. If it's out of the box and no other changes other that what you described. send it back it's busted.

The most I have heard of is about 17% on the fuel side. When they error they are always optimistic. ie shows less fuel than OEM. Miles is within 2% on most.

 

One of the reasons people (including me) tweak their ScanGauges a lot is because the realtime MPG and/or trip MPG numbers were so far out of line with reality. In fact I'm pretty sure I had mine at 50% at one time or another! From what I can tell this is just the nature of the beast. Bottom line: you won't get the SG to agree with reality on every number.

Better to calibrate the SG to correlate with the numbers you like to keep an eye on and leave it at that. Since I don't do P&G and whatnot, I like to watch tank MPG so that's what I shoot for in my calibrations. I'm at +2.8% now and it's very close on tank miles and fillup gallons.

I guess another alternative would be to calibrate tank/fillup figures and learn to live with inaccuracies in the other figures; just use them as relative values.