What would be a realistic MPG for the auto with a 80 mile (one way)commute to work with 72 of those miles being interstate?

Taking a poll of the 2 Fit AT's besides mine indicates you can expect 30 to 35 mpg depending on how hot it is and how fast the interstate speeds. One of ours has a wife that drives daily about 40 miles to work on the interstate and 12 miles on back roads one way. She gets 34 mpg regularly but that Fit has 17" wheels and 205/40x17 tires. Based on her commute, on stock Dunlops you should get 35 mpg, again depending on the heat and speed and traffic. Lots of speed changes less mpg.
Enjoy.

 

Don't forget that terrain is a big factor. I think that is my number one challenge with all the hills that I encounter. Every time I get to the top of one I can go max .5 miles till I am going down a hill, some are mellow and others are steep.

 

Shawn,

It's from a data base I grabed from the Clean site fill records. It's all Fits' less ones that do not have many miles in there data sets. Ie bogus flash in the pan data. I think I filtered out those less than 2000 miles or so.

The Histogram is using (sorted by MPG) all Fits with each X (a Fit) being ID'ed by AT or MT

 

head gamez:

I have a commute similar to yours (about 50 miles--40 on the freeway), and I have been able to get 40 MPG on a few tanks with my 07 AT Fit Sport (with stock Dunlops), mainly by keeping around 55-65 MPH. I'm starting to try pulse and glide, but still not sure what speed thresholds to use. By the way--don't expect great fuel economy until after the break-in period (about 5000 miles).

pb and h:

I have to deal with hills here, too. Advice on hypermiling techniques for hills?

 

Only you can answer the P&G speeds. Here's why
The slower you go the better the MPG. Only you can answer that. I use to be 65 now I'm 60mph-max. The glide low limit will depend on the traffic as you will find at 45mph every one finds you in the way.

good luck

 

What Paul said, I have been hanging out at the 45mph zone this week on the end of the glide and it gets scary with trucks and semi's ridding your ass

 

Okay, but you guys have manuals and I don't . So...

Since the AT has taller gearing, should I still go for 45? Also, I really have no idea what's the best way to accelerate on the pulse. I've so far been trying to keep the scangauge's instant MPG as close to 40 as possible during the pulse. Am I doing it completely wrong?

 

Makes no difference unless you are saying you can't control the up and down shifts.

YES

Look at the LOD gauge and keep it at 80 on the pulse

 

Pay no attention whatsoever to the instantaneous mileage numbers. They're not worth much except in comparison to themselves. Use LOD (which didn't work for me, it was always maxing out) or horsepower (which did) or TPS (which also did).

I tried P&G, and I tried calibration, and in the end I gave up on the SG. I decided to keep it so I have something to clear codes with, but the rest of the time it will sit in a box on a shelf.

The bottom line is that the slower you go, and the more you coast, the better your mpg will be. P&G helps incrementally, but adds effort -- and, significantly in some cases, risk. Same with FAS. Pump up your tires to the maximum level you find comfortable (45 psi here), slow down, coast when practical and safe to do so, and otherwise just drive your car.

 

I have found that terrain is a huge factor. On anything flat or nearly flat I can get good mpg with any small car. On any sort of incline mpg falls off fast unless you can keep TPS very low like 8 to 12. Usually mpg can be half as much going uphill at the same speed.

For an AT Sport commuting you can expect about 32+ mpg with cruise control or steady speeds. Up to 34 would be possible. Any sitting in traffic would be bad and go easy on the small streets leading to the freeway, you can burn gas in stop and go traffic.

As for scan gauge, it's not super accurate and needs a little adjustment to give a reliable mpg reading but I use it as a relative indicator of mpg as I go with the idea of retraining myself on driving habits to increase mpg as best I can. I find that even in heavy traffic with a little throttle I can still get about 20 mpg. The worst is fast starts from stops and hard braking which makes you loose all that momentum that could be used to coast to a stop.

Key techniques are easy throttle all the time, coast when you can or minimal throttle, and light use of the brakes. Be patient and it pays off.

I also note that when I use 205/45-17 tires coasting downhill I can get about 206 mpg but it I use narrow tires like 175/65-15 with light wheels I get 262 mpg on the same stretch with the same technique. This just tells me that rolling resistance is much higher with a wider tire. Both had about 40 psi, ride quality was better with the narrow tire.

Gives me the idea to mount 185/60-15 tires on the stock rims as a daily setup.

 

What do you mean be specific. My records show they are dead nuts put of the box unless you drive WOT

 

"dead nuts put of the box" = ??? Not sure what that means.

I set the gas tank to 10 gallons and engine size. Then I drive and I get mpg numbers. At the end of the tank of gas you can adjust how many gallons were used to make the mpg number more accurate. This can vary from car to car with different transmissions.

My overall numbers are very high and optimistic by scan gauge II if I do not adjust for error. My true mpg is about 25 to 29 and my non adjusted scan gauge mpg is about 35.

Also many times I notice that the readout for instant mpg is stuck at 9999 even with changes in throttle position. I could leave it there stuck and go along or blip the throttle to get it to wake up. Usually after a bit of time it wakes up without effort. Also in coasting mode the numbers are quite optimistic and never seem to even out compared to the lower numbers I get in heavy traffic. I have noticed if you do mixed driving with a little urban use the overall average isn't very good. To get high mpg you really need to avoid any heavy traffic and spend most of the time on the highway in less congested areas and at constant speed.

For daily driving I mostly get about 26 mpg and the only way I can get 32 mpg is to take one long trip on sunday in light traffic. So the capability is there but for daily use under my normal conditions I rarely ever see more than about 28 mpg even with the help of scan gauge which is pretty sad considering my 2006 Honda Civic sedan with AT gets 32 without a fuss.

 

That was a typo, a big one

I wanted to say, it's dead nuts accurate, out of the box.

When I got mine I chased the fuel like you are doing and got lost. Than what I noticed with zero correction factor was the numbers constantly came in at +/-1%. Did you see the data I posted on this a few pages back?

The ONLY time I see 9999 is when the engine is braking the slowing car ie foot off the gas and no brakes. If you see it at other rimes I'd call them and ask if your is broken.

The only other issue I have seen are:

The fuel flow is off when going WOT and the EUC goes open loop at WOT. I measured 17% low when I did about 300 miles of P&G using WOT on the pulse.

The other issue is it gets lost on the miles if you FAS if you don't tell it to be a hybrid.

Here's my data again
Look at the right to columns

 

Well, I guess mine is a dud because no matter what car I use I get 9999 miles a lot and error is mucho big with usually a correction needed which when switching from car to car isn't fun to do so I gave up. I have never found any of my three cars to need zero correction. And I have talked to others that have used Scan gauge in my area that also needed correction.

Zero correction gives mpg far too optimistic by about 5+ mpg easily no matter what car I drive.

There are definitely times when I am on the throttle (lightly) and still get 9999 like it is stuck there until I blip the throttle sometimes more than once.

Still the usefulness of the Scan gauge for me is behavior training and awareness of gph as it relates to TPS. Less throttle usually means less fuel used. In the end I am able to get about 2 or 3 true mpg more than before using scan gauge II.

I wonder about AT vs manual transmission. You get 40+ and I get 25+ mpg.
How is scan gauge II affected by the transmission?

 

pcs0snq:

I've been trying some P&G, keeping LOD around 80 on the pulse and coasting down to 45 when possible, and got my best 30-mile commute ever: 47.4 MPG .

My next questions are: Up to what speed should the pulse go? And how best to P&G with hilly terrain? (So far, I've been trying to keep LOD around 80 going uphill, then pulsing up to about 70, then gliding)

Many thanks!

MINI-Fit:

You may need to set the tank size a little larger, as the Fit's tank can actually hold between 11 and 12 gallons. As for the 9999 thing, that is normal while you are coasting or braking, but not otherwise.

 

70's way too fast, unless you have to do that for some reason. Slow the pulse down to 60 or less if you really want to see some numbers. Also, if you want the next step, FAS kill the eng and coast then restart to start the pulse.

I'm not an expert on the hill deal as I just have over passes. That said I have talked to the experts and the recommendation on that is to try and time the glide to the down hill part. For me that means holding a speed till you crest. That speed should be maybe 5 under the peak.

I know that. but thanks

 

huuuu I get 50+

 

LMAO!


I am with Paul, maintain a constant speed up the hill as you are about to crest increase speed to the desired max with that max being about 5mph higher.

As far as mph is concerned, the slower the better mpg. The only way to really see improvement is to slow your roll. haha! Really, don't go over 55mph at anytime and you will be good to go..................yes, I realize it is not easy but those are the facts and you can do it, trust me on that

The max yield for me has been a P&G from 50-40mph on highways and 55-45 on interstates. I encounter lots of hills and I will crest at 50mph and coast on down to 35-40mph which ever I can get away with assuming the lower speed limit isn't 45mph.


OH, DO NOT USE A/C.

 

Here's Shawn's most effective hypermilling tool

 

LMAO! good one! If the febreze doesn't do the trick then I might break out the Christmas trees!



I said the hell with it today and used the A/C all the way home. This damn desert heat sucks and one week of no A/C really sucks!