yeah right... universal my ass

 

So as I sit here, looking at the Airflow Adjustment Map which contains throttle positioning, airflow pressure & absolute pressure... that I don't have a clue what the hell I am looking at

When do you guys have time to play

 

I am thinking about ditching the E-manage and trying something like this out

 

that's kind of like a Hondata reflash it's good if you want a specific map but if you change something again after it would need to be reprogramed as it won't be optimal anymore.

 

I don't see how Jet can provide a good solution in ECU reflashing when Hondata won't even help us out. ET is right tho, its not so great since you can't make fine adjustments and with our environment going from +30 in the summer and -30 in the winter will really mess with your ECU if its tuned a specific way.

The Emanage will work good for your specific tuning purposes. I've heard that the AEM FI/C works even better and is quite cheap.

The only map that you need to adjust is the Airflow Adjustment Map. You just need to play with those parameters to get to where you need to be... what are your current conditions? Lean or Rich? Idle or cruising? WOT?

The A/F adjustment should be able to get you to a safe area in terms of Air Fuel.. if you need to add a lot of fuel, then you need to make adjustments to the Injector Adjustment Map.

Those are the only 2 maps you need to play with really.. in order to adjust the I/J map you need to make sure that the Emanage is wired up properly to add fuel.

The only issues I had with my tuning when using the Emanage was my rich idle (I have 310cc injectors), and my closed loop boost conditions, which was pretty minor and I pretty much have it in a good spot now.

Since you have stock injectors and are not boosting, it should be pretty easy to make adjustments to get you in the right AFRs.

shoot me an email or PM and let me know whats going on and I can see if I can't help you out.

 

I am running really rich, ET was saying close to 10 @ anything above 5500rpm

I don't really understand what I am looking at or the scale used. If I pull up the map-tree I have two folders; one called Airflow & one called Ignition. Under each one is a sub folder with adjustment Maps.

If I pull up the Airflow Adjustment Map it gives me a table with a pull down menu on the top left that has three categories; throttle position, airflow pressure & absolute pressure. The scale changes on the side columns, but the data in the table appears to be fixed & linked. It looks something like this right now; (top is airflow, the lower is ignition).



I don't really understand what all these values mean. Do they adjust the signal from zero (being stock). If so how much is each point worth?

 

you want to adjust the absolute pressure values within the airflow adjustment map.

if you want to lean out the AFRs you need to put a negative value in that spot, if you want to make it more rich then you put a positive value. Atleast that is how mine works.. my map is full of (-) values when i am in vacuum, and (+) values when in boost, the left side column shows you vacuum and boost pressure, since you don't have boost, you should be able to adjust values across the rpm band, bring them into -20 to -40 and see how that affects it. i know it seems backwards going with negative values to lean out since you'd think it was the other way around.

also, check that your primary o2 sensor is working properly... do you have a cel? my AFRs dropped to 10.0 when my O2 sensor died, it went to 10.0 when i wasn't at idle or WOT.

Take into consideration that my map may be different since i'm boosted.. but it should generally be the same to remove/add fuel

 

Nick, the ones you posted show you rpms at the top and hopw much your throttle plate is open on the side.

If we take into account at 5500 and above it's too rich the values where it says 7.0 at 5500rpms and 90-100% we should enter the negative sign there once or twice and then using the wideband do another pass to see if that leaned out a bit. If it did but not enough, you stop lean a bit more and go at it again.

500rpms increments is not that great for resolution though any chance that scale can be changed for 250rpms increments or even 100rpms?

It creates a much bigger graph but helps tune it much more precisely.

Does that make sense Nick?

 

Yeah I can adjust the scale to show more RPM's

Ok, so the boxes showing 7.0 for 5500rpm & above @ 90-100% should be adjusted downwards to open up the throttle more?

So if I understand this correctly, for those boxes 7.0 actually means 3.5% closed more than stock? So if I went to a - value such as -1.0 it would essentially be opening even more at WOT than stock? (thus giving more air, thus leaning out my AFR)

 

So I tried out a new tune today, I progressively dropped down the 7.0s to 5.0's at 80% to -1' at 100% for everything over 5000rpms. Results? Encouraging, a noticeable reduction in overall sluggishness at those RPM's. This is kind of fun actually

During my test drive some V8 Audi pulled up beside me and started reving up, I punched it (for the test of course) and stayed with him right up to the highway speed limit. I think the guy was pissed, lol.

I need to figure out how to get that data logger on the LM2 going against my RPM's so I can get play around some more!

 

what did the air fuel ratio look like after those changes nick?

Get the laptop hooked up to the lm2 and you will be able to datalog within the application provided from innovate.

 

Ironically with the new jack stands, creeper & trouble light... I have no ramps or floor jack handy

I haven't been able to get under the car easily to install the O2 sensor as of yet.

 

Dude go buy that stuff asap, you paid good money so you wouldn't be tuning the car blindly like you just did :P

Glad she feels better.

 

All true, but my bank account hurts right now!! lol

 

Something interesting in my LM2 manual, they are saying I should be going for a 14.7 AFR for optimal performance.

 

maybe email some tuners in town to see what they would recommend as an optimal NA a/f ratio but I have always heard that N/A is better around 13:1 close to redline.

 

I could probably make a couple of different maps to try out on the Dyno

 

I think I might order my tires from 1010tires.com

They have them in stock, Bob may not be able to get them in for me before June

 

1010tires about the same price?

 

159$ each is the posted price, 35$ total shipping costs added on. So price is pretty close actually

TireRack is 91$ USD. After shipping, CAD conversion & taxes the landed cost is about 20$ more than 1010tires for me.... providing I don't get hit with additional costs for cross-border shipping which seem to be hit & miss these days.

The major difference is Bob would have to charge me for mouting & balancing