for those that dont already know- Hondata
http://t.vittuned.com/upload/get/139/969c357b69c9024647b2e8be310065b0
last time trying to get this to work right idk what im doing wrong to link it
last time trying to get this to work right idk what im doing wrong to link it
hi friends,www.warninglightpro.com this the link from i buy this horn.you can buy this.i think you will feel better.
Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 150
From: Monkeyville
Buyer beware of anyone selling you an "intake" or an enthusiast who has one and is trying to justify his/her decision to have bought one. They don't work and there is no physics or engineering that supports the claims. It will make you engine louder though, if that's what you're looking for.
New Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 13
From: Kissimmee, FL
Buyer beware of anyone selling you an "intake" or an enthusiast who has one and is trying to justify his/her decision to have bought one. They don't work and there is no physics or engineering that supports the claims. It will make you engine louder though, if that's what you're looking for.
Buyer beware of anyone selling you an "intake" or an enthusiast who has one and is trying to justify his/her decision to have bought one. They don't work and there is no physics or engineering that supports the claims. It will make you engine louder though, if that's what you're looking for.
Estimate is worthless.. hit the dyno and then see what it traps at the drag strip to back it up.
Buyer beware of anyone selling you an "intake" or an enthusiast who has one and is trying to justify his/her decision to have bought one. They don't work and there is no physics or engineering that supports the claims. It will make you engine louder though, if that's what you're looking for.
Estimate is worthless.. hit the dyno and then see what it traps at the drag strip to back it up.
Spoon_Fit23, PLEASE, listen to DSM. Also that "105" sounds like a factory crank rating and is not going to be an accurate at wheel number.
There is no way to estimate as there are WAY to many variables. Even ambient air temperature is a factor.
CTCT,
I can provide you with numerous articles, dyno sheets and additional lessons in physics that will show that these are not just a scam.
HOWEVER, I have seen the 3+page flame thread about sparkplugs and don't want any part of that action.
So lets leave it as a disagreement of opinion. Every one is entitled to their own.
Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 150
From: Monkeyville
Spoon_Fit23, PLEASE, listen to DSM. Also that "105" sounds like a factory crank rating and is not going to be an accurate at wheel number.
There is no way to estimate as there are WAY to many variables. Even ambient air temperature is a factor.
CTCT,
I can provide you with numerous articles, dyno sheets and additional lessons in physics that will show that these are not just a scam.
HOWEVER, I have seen the 3+page flame thread about sparkplugs and don't want any part of that action.
So lets leave it as a disagreement of opinion. Every one is entitled to their own.
There is no way to estimate as there are WAY to many variables. Even ambient air temperature is a factor.
CTCT,
I can provide you with numerous articles, dyno sheets and additional lessons in physics that will show that these are not just a scam.
HOWEVER, I have seen the 3+page flame thread about sparkplugs and don't want any part of that action.
So lets leave it as a disagreement of opinion. Every one is entitled to their own.
To prove aftermarket filter plumbing (that's what it is, it's not an intake) is less restrictive than stock you would need to measure air temperature, pressure, and air flow right before the throttle body, and perhaps at a couple other locations at various engine speeds and vehicle speeds. From those parameters you can calculate mass air flow (slugs/ft^3) at various locations. If the aftermarket product provides better mass air flow than stock then the dyno result should reflect that or at least not show any less power (becuase the real mass airflow that affects volumetric efficiency happens in the cylinder and may get reduced after the throttle body to a point where the filter plumbing doesn't matter if it's better or worse than stock).
You should at least be doing some data logging! Takes 15 minutes to set it up with a laptop, then get some base lines 
You are FI right?
You are FI right?
That is fine. But you cannot make valid conclusions when the physics do not support the test results. You are free to disagree with me.
To prove aftermarket filter plumbing (that's what it is, it's not an intake) is less restrictive than stock you would need to measure air temperature, pressure, and air flow right before the throttle body, and perhaps at a couple other locations at various engine speeds and vehicle speeds. From those parameters you can calculate mass air flow (slugs/ft^3) at various locations. If the aftermarket product provides better mass air flow than stock then the dyno result should reflect that or at least not show any less power (becuase the real mass airflow that affects volumetric efficiency happens in the cylinder and may get reduced after the throttle body to a point where the filter plumbing doesn't matter if it's better or worse than stock).
To prove aftermarket filter plumbing (that's what it is, it's not an intake) is less restrictive than stock you would need to measure air temperature, pressure, and air flow right before the throttle body, and perhaps at a couple other locations at various engine speeds and vehicle speeds. From those parameters you can calculate mass air flow (slugs/ft^3) at various locations. If the aftermarket product provides better mass air flow than stock then the dyno result should reflect that or at least not show any less power (becuase the real mass airflow that affects volumetric efficiency happens in the cylinder and may get reduced after the throttle body to a point where the filter plumbing doesn't matter if it's better or worse than stock).
Tyler's car and many others have been put on the dyno in a variety of configurations and conditions. We have results. I don't recommend things that don't work, I like my customers happy.. especially when they actually race their cars.
ive got a broken weapon r intake mani i need to have fixed/replaced.
im going turbo tho
Record it all, FOR SCIENCE
Finally put one of the base maps on my GD yesterday. Was having some issues getting the darn thing working since I have no time on my hands anymore due to work and learning Window's 8 (which Flash Pro does work with... so far).
Used the "Stock Equivalent" map and raised the rev limiter to 6.8k. I'm still unfamiliar with the FP Manager so it'll take me a bit to figure out and understand what does what and how it affect's the engine.
Used the "Stock Equivalent" map and raised the rev limiter to 6.8k. I'm still unfamiliar with the FP Manager so it'll take me a bit to figure out and understand what does what and how it affect's the engine.
