What did you do to your GE fit today?
it turns a lot of heads. I want to do a JDP look and get the car wrapped with a two tone color theme.What sort of boost controller are you intending to run where you'll have full control on the wastegate solenoid duty cycle and a scramble boost feature?
The AMS 1000? I hope you got a big wallet.
'Cuz thats not gonna happen with an MBC or even an AEM Tru-Boost.
Still listening to your friend the turbo expert on rear mounting a 40lb/min turbo?
The AMS 1000? I hope you got a big wallet.
'Cuz thats not gonna happen with an MBC or even an AEM Tru-Boost.
Still listening to your friend the turbo expert on rear mounting a 40lb/min turbo?
'Cuz thats not gonna happen with an MBC or even an AEM Tru-Boost.
/quote]
Yea actually you can, and its called internal wastegate bro, you can do that, its awesome, you should look into it.
And this coming from the guy who claims he got everything for a turbo kit for $1000. Bahahaha! Ok first off unless you hand make all of the things you need, which I highly doubt, everything in any kit is not going to be a total of $1000. If the kit was made that cheap the kit must really suck.
Yes making the kit ground up is all us Fit owners can do but for that cheap makes absolutely no sense.
Here bro ill even give you the list of parts and prices for you so you can see with your own eyes that you can't do it for $1000.
AEM TRU BOOST - $318
Greddy Informeter - $500 (for gauges)
AEM F/IC - 6 - $427.37
Thats over $1000 right there just for monitoring systems and fuel systems.
Garrett T28 Turbo - $800
Intercooler + Piping - $500
Cold burning Spark Plugs - $60
Etc. Etc.
Ahhh man busted another grand maybe two right there brother bear.
See if your getting these parts from a junk yard and making them then yea I can see why its $1000, and it probably has a poor performance.
So based on your all knowing knowledge, have you done an after-cat turbo system to YOUR fit? If the answer is no, which i'm pretty sure it is, then you really shouldn't give advice to someone else about it. Who knows, it could be just as good as being put on any other car. You just got to experiment a little. So for now on don't dog on someones project if you never tried it yourself.
thank you 
It's a shame that the AD08 is not offered in 205/50R16 sizes in the US. I so wish they would have them, because Tire Rack would probably sell them for like $180/tire versus the damn $325/tire I have to pay here in Japan.
Have fun with the new meat.
Have fun with the new meat.
I have no other suspension modifications so I feel the star spec's were going to be a bit overkill. Sure cant wait to try these out tho!
Thank you. it turns a lot of heads. I want to do a JDP look and get the car wrapped with a two tone color theme.
Yea actually you can, and its called internal wastegate bro, you can do that, its awesome, you should look into it.
And this coming from the guy who claims he got everything for a turbo kit for $1000. Bahahaha! Ok first off unless you hand make all of the things you need, which I highly doubt, everything in any kit is not going to be a total of $1000. If the kit was made that cheap the kit must really suck.
Yes making the kit ground up is all us Fit owners can do but for that cheap makes absolutely no sense.
Here bro ill even give you the list of parts and prices for you so you can see with your own eyes that you can't do it for $1000.
AEM TRU BOOST - $318
Greddy Informeter - $500 (for gauges)
AEM F/IC - 6 - $427.37
Thats over $1000 right there just for monitoring systems and fuel systems.
Garrett T28 Turbo - $800
Intercooler + Piping - $500
Cold burning Spark Plugs - $60
Etc. Etc.
Ahhh man busted another grand maybe two right there brother bear.
See if your getting these parts from a junk yard and making them then yea I can see why its $1000, and it probably has a poor performance.
So based on your all knowing knowledge, have you done an after-cat turbo system to YOUR fit? If the answer is no, which i'm pretty sure it is, then you really shouldn't give advice to someone else about it. Who knows, it could be just as good as being put on any other car. You just got to experiment a little. So for now on don't dog on someones project if you never tried it yourself. thank you
it turns a lot of heads. I want to do a JDP look and get the car wrapped with a two tone color theme.And this coming from the guy who claims he got everything for a turbo kit for $1000. Bahahaha! Ok first off unless you hand make all of the things you need, which I highly doubt, everything in any kit is not going to be a total of $1000. If the kit was made that cheap the kit must really suck.
Yes making the kit ground up is all us Fit owners can do but for that cheap makes absolutely no sense.
Here bro ill even give you the list of parts and prices for you so you can see with your own eyes that you can't do it for $1000.
AEM TRU BOOST - $318
Greddy Informeter - $500 (for gauges)
AEM F/IC - 6 - $427.37
Thats over $1000 right there just for monitoring systems and fuel systems.
Garrett T28 Turbo - $800
Intercooler + Piping - $500
Cold burning Spark Plugs - $60
Etc. Etc.
Ahhh man busted another grand maybe two right there brother bear.
See if your getting these parts from a junk yard and making them then yea I can see why its $1000, and it probably has a poor performance.
So based on your all knowing knowledge, have you done an after-cat turbo system to YOUR fit? If the answer is no, which i'm pretty sure it is, then you really shouldn't give advice to someone else about it. Who knows, it could be just as good as being put on any other car. You just got to experiment a little. So for now on don't dog on someones project if you never tried it yourself.
thank you You've managed to cram 10lbs of stupid into a 5lb bag. Bravo.
Actually, I'll help you out a bit since you seem to be just barely literate.
My first turbo kit cost me a hair shy of $1300 dollars. Yay reading comprehension.
Also, an internal wastegate, especially a non-divorced internal wastegate, is particularly prone to boost creep. So unless you port the sh*t out of the hole under the valve hat (ask Lyon.. or anyone else using the 5-bolt garrett-style turbine discharge on the T25/T28 series turbos) you are going to have a hell of a time keeping boost in check.
No matter how much money you spend on an electronic boost controller. Of which, the AMS 1000 is a multi-stage unit, and that is why I mentioned it in reference to your push button comment and brought up the term scramble boost.
I would never put a medium frame compressor/turbine combo mounted at the end of what amounts to a 12ft snorkel attached to an anemic 1.5l with 10.4:1 slugs. What little heat that makes it into the header and down to the end of the pipe will have dissipated and exhaust charge face velocity has plummeted at that point.
Heat and exhaust pulse speed are what spool turbos, since you nor your friend cant seem to figure that out..
The reason I mention both compression and displacement is because first you dont have a large volume to begin with, and the compression is relevant because a higher compression motor is more thermally efficient. What you are doing is using more of the heat during the power stroke instead of wasting it through the exhaust so there is actually less energy to perform work on the turbine wheel which then puts torque on the shaft and drives the compressor.
So you are shooting yourself in the foot on multiple fronts, and then going back for more.
I have done more than a few rear-mount setups, and they are only employed when there is NO SPACE AVAILABLE under the hood or in the trans tunnel. And even then, this is only done on something that is making a ton of heat with a large exhaust volume.
Then you are still left choking down the turbine housing to have some remote chance at spooling the turbo.
It is essentially a last resort.
I spelled all of this out for you the first time around and because you are yet another dumb stubborn f*ck you ignored it.
What do you plan to do for oiling and providing coolant to the turbo?
If you can't get 2-3liters/minute of ~220-240*F oil out and back under sufficient pressure on the feed with low back pressure you are going to burn through CHRAs constantly.
All of the above I tried to point out to you the first time around:
Someone who "knows turbos" is telling you to put the same turbo you intend to use on an otherwise stock L15A7 on a K20x?
This is in addition to the fact that he is suggesting you rear mount a ~40lb/min turbo.. after both stock cats? On a high comp 1.5L?
Let alone a 64mm turbine inducer with a 71mm exducer compressor. What A/R turbine housing is he recommending?
Not that it really matters as this takes pretty much all the corrected exhaust gas flow a stock Fit produces at peak tq just to load up the turbine and start to create positive intake pressure, and at an appalling supercharger-like ~64% turbine efficiency max.. even in the small .69A/R housing (P# 435066-32)
That is a recipe for an expensive disappointment and not to mention failure if you f*ck up the oil scavenging.
Good luck with fitting a couple dozen feet of oil line, exhaust and charge piping with as little ground clearance and room as the GEs have.
I think you need to find someone that actually knows what they are talking about or at least share what hes smoking with the rest of us.
This is in addition to the fact that he is suggesting you rear mount a ~40lb/min turbo.. after both stock cats? On a high comp 1.5L?
Let alone a 64mm turbine inducer with a 71mm exducer compressor. What A/R turbine housing is he recommending?
Not that it really matters as this takes pretty much all the corrected exhaust gas flow a stock Fit produces at peak tq just to load up the turbine and start to create positive intake pressure, and at an appalling supercharger-like ~64% turbine efficiency max.. even in the small .69A/R housing (P# 435066-32)
That is a recipe for an expensive disappointment and not to mention failure if you f*ck up the oil scavenging.
Good luck with fitting a couple dozen feet of oil line, exhaust and charge piping with as little ground clearance and room as the GEs have.
I think you need to find someone that actually knows what they are talking about or at least share what hes smoking with the rest of us.
I could see how you would be skeptical.. when you have no idea what you are doing and have never done it before.
By the way all said and done, my first turbo setup for the GD cost me just shy of $1300. More than a few other GD guys have been able to do this as well, most opt to over build though. Which I try to encourage so they have room to grow later on.
A GE owner that I worked with, Lyon, had his up and running in a month with only ~$1200 invested. The other GE owners I've done custom setups for so far were all overseas with healthy budgets and were aiming for big power.
I've been boosting, tuning and blending primary fuels and secondary fuel systems on ICE and HCCI motors for the better part of a decade now. I design, consult and build so as you can imagine there are some tricks you pick up in addition to suppliers and fabricators along the way.
If you want help, I can design a solution for you. I give FF.net members a discount, especially if I am only providing consulting. PM me for rates if you are serious.
Please have a concise set of goals in terms of peak power, where you would like that power or a trap/ET.
By the way all said and done, my first turbo setup for the GD cost me just shy of $1300. More than a few other GD guys have been able to do this as well, most opt to over build though. Which I try to encourage so they have room to grow later on.
A GE owner that I worked with, Lyon, had his up and running in a month with only ~$1200 invested. The other GE owners I've done custom setups for so far were all overseas with healthy budgets and were aiming for big power.
I've been boosting, tuning and blending primary fuels and secondary fuel systems on ICE and HCCI motors for the better part of a decade now. I design, consult and build so as you can imagine there are some tricks you pick up in addition to suppliers and fabricators along the way.
If you want help, I can design a solution for you. I give FF.net members a discount, especially if I am only providing consulting. PM me for rates if you are serious.
Please have a concise set of goals in terms of peak power, where you would like that power or a trap/ET.
Only one of us can write a dissertation on the hows and whys here, and it sure as sh*t aint you.
If you are going to use a turbo of that size, mount it in the engine bay, over the transmission where you have heat and exhaust velocity on your side. Then you have easy access to the engines coolant circuit and you can still gravity drain the center cartridge.
For the record, paying $800 for a journal bearing T28 is pants-on-head retarded.
The best part of that whole inane rant of yours is that you admit to spending $60 dollars on "cold spark plugs," lord knows what heat range you actually chose.. and yet for all that nowhere in there did you list a wideband UEGO sensor.
Which for the uninitiated is the single most important tool besides the FIC for tuning your setup because factory narrowband and semi-wideband Nernst-cell oxygen sensors do not correct for EGT and the same voltage @ 400*C is nowhere near the same lambda ratio as what is actually coming out the engine @ 800*C!
I was doing you a favor in the last thread, now I am in it for the schadenfreude.
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; Apr 3, 2012 at 03:53 PM.
And in case you guys are wondering, when done properly this is what a GT30 frame turbo (The slightly bigger 47-48lb/min compressor wheel from the 3076R, actually) will spool like and how much power it will put down on a stock cam with custom intake and exhaust manifolds:
Here's what that might look like:
This made 450.x whp @ 27.9psi boost through a stock 5MT KA GD3 Fit transmission with a GD4 intermediate shaft.
You don't even have the advantage of making an exhaust manifold tuned for your application because the manifold is integrated into the cylinder head and then dumps all 8 ports into one cavernous hole and out to the "header." Which kicks you in the balls right from the get go.
Do note though, that even with the turbo mounted as close as possible, with wrapped headers, how long it takes to light off and hit full boost.
It was de-tuned to 405whp/330wtq (which is what it made in the dyno pull above) to limit torque because they kept blowing up the transmission.
This car is daily driven, and picks his kids up at school with it.
So, remind me again.. who of us doesnt know what they are talking about?
Here's what that might look like:
This made 450.x whp @ 27.9psi boost through a stock 5MT KA GD3 Fit transmission with a GD4 intermediate shaft.
You don't even have the advantage of making an exhaust manifold tuned for your application because the manifold is integrated into the cylinder head and then dumps all 8 ports into one cavernous hole and out to the "header." Which kicks you in the balls right from the get go.
Do note though, that even with the turbo mounted as close as possible, with wrapped headers, how long it takes to light off and hit full boost.
It was de-tuned to 405whp/330wtq (which is what it made in the dyno pull above) to limit torque because they kept blowing up the transmission.
This car is daily driven, and picks his kids up at school with it.
So, remind me again.. who of us doesnt know what they are talking about?
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; Apr 3, 2012 at 02:28 PM.
Definitely... Kindle won't work... Ipad will blow up... Definitely... 
To clarify, that was on a MT GD3, so transmission assembly P# 20011-RMJ-G40
The GE8 MT trans P# is 20011-RP4-G72
But yes, dependent on torque and the skill/habits of the driver it seems to be able to live in daily configuration @ 330wtq provided you aren't launching it with boost on sticky tires and banging gears while the fluid is cold.
Even then, I would still roll into boost.
The GD4 (4WD JDM Model) intermediate shaft was being used as insurance. Cannot find the P# I have for that at the moment..
The GE8 MT trans P# is 20011-RP4-G72
But yes, dependent on torque and the skill/habits of the driver it seems to be able to live in daily configuration @ 330wtq provided you aren't launching it with boost on sticky tires and banging gears while the fluid is cold.
Even then, I would still roll into boost.
The GD4 (4WD JDM Model) intermediate shaft was being used as insurance. Cannot find the P# I have for that at the moment..
Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; Apr 3, 2012 at 05:25 PM.
So much information. I only knew the basics of forced induction so thanks for all that.
And I had to look up "schadenfreude." I wasn't really expecting it to be a real word but it f*cking is.
You've impressed me DSM.
And I had to look up "schadenfreude." I wasn't really expecting it to be a real word but it f*cking is.
You've impressed me DSM.
I received my rear calipers from the powdercoater and have since decided to go ahead and tear them completely down and replace every part in them not just new seals and boots.
Last edited by BlueBoogers; Apr 3, 2012 at 08:50 PM.