Just replaced the stock Dunlops after 41K miles. Decided on the Yoko Avid Envigors from Tire Rack. First impressions of the 205/50/16's are that the wander is gone and it feels like the car is floating on air with a slight bounce. Checked the pressure when I got home and the installer set it to about 40psi. So far, so good.

 

isnt it amazing what a slightly wider tire does?

i love my 205s in place of the factory 175s (base owner)

 

I agree with you guys ( 13fit and dod488 ) since i'm running in that size got better stability, strong look, same mileage in my case (stock was 185-55-r16)

More than satisfied....







Luis

Honda Fit Sport 2013 - Vortex Blue Pearl

 

I like the way the tires sit on your rims. Much better than the stretch look that's so popular these days, IMO.

 

Installed some cree leds for my front parking lights... I originally bought them for the reverse light, but didn't realize the jdm tail lights (On the car when I bough it) uses a 7440 bulb instead of the 168.

oh well...but they are super bright lol

 

re-burped the 09's cooling system, cleared code. test drove a few times and so far so good.


also over the weekend i cleaned and touched up a few areas that were rusting on my '12 undercarriage.
not a big rust problem. normal wear. road salt sucks.

 

tinted my fog lights yellow and blacked out my badges.

and my password jdm brass shift knob.

 

Lowered the car on H&R springs a couple weekends ago.....

Before:




After:

 

Went from 17s to 16s. I forgot how much better the ride is. Also did a full detail.

 

Brushed aluminum roof wrap, OEM crv sharkfin

Top Fuel power chamber, Optima 51R battery.

 

Monitor that 51R Optima. The smaller Optimas can be finicky at times, due to how Optima CRAMS plates inside. Any time you accidentally let it go dead for whatever reason, be sure you charge it FULLY before going back to regular use.


Ive had 4 of them in the dozens of civics Ive owned over the years. They are a bit sensitive to heat and cold since they are such a small version of what Optima usually supports (usually truck batteries).


In short terms, buy a battery blanket or wrap. Just find something so the battery never goes through a fast thermal change, like dead of winter, and you start driving for awhile and engine bay heats up fairly fast.

 

Thanks for the heads up! I was actually looking for a battery blanket the whole day, but because I don't have a garage to park it I'm severely limited in choices.

 

Recently I added an etrailer hitch, trailer wiring, Firestone airbags within my rear coil springs, and an auxiliary automatic transmission cooler to my 2012 Base AT Fit. This weekend I used it to tow a 5x8 foot "bed in a box" camping trailer, that probably weighs around 900-1000lb with my bed and all camping gear inside. It all worked just as I had planned and hoped! Drove it about 100 miles to a central CA lake and camped for the weekend. If it continues more intense trials, I might take a rambling lazy cross country trek next summer, taking my time, sleeping in my trailer, and stopping at motels every 5 days or a week to clean up.

 

Didn't do anything TO the Fit... the Fit however, decided to hit me with limp mode, TWICE (among other things).

Both times were P0107 codes... MAP low circuit voltage.

This on top of the TPMS light I've had for a few weeks or so... I wonder if the sensors are out of battery. 3-1/2 years and some 70k miles (I'd say something like 70% of it is delivery driving). There's no DTC related to it, so the UG can't tell me what the deal is.

A few days after the TPMS light came on, my tail lights burned out. First it was just one side... then the other went out the next day. I replaced one side with an LED light I had leftover (one of a pair, but other had a broken pin on delivery). I was hoping it would be half useful as a brake light, even if the normal tail didn't work, but it turned out, the second filament in the bulb was ALSO burnt out. Replaced it with, what turned out to be crappy, pair of LEDs from Walmart... while I waited for a pair from Amazon (Putco LEDs). Which I finally got installed a few days ago.

AND THEN, my remote for the Viper alarm+starter keeps dying on me. A few weeks ago, the battery died... replaced it (with a battery from Walgreens), died AGAIN maybe 2 weeks later. Replaced that (with one, of 20, from Amazon), died less than a week later. Replaced that again... and got maybe half a week. I give up, that's just too many batteries in a one month period. Gonna order another remote and hope it works, otherwise, I'm gonna need to either remove the Viper unit or swap it out for something else. I mean, the primary reason I have it, is for remote starter... which requires the remotes to arm (due to my Fit being a manual transmission), and without the remote, it's useless even as an alarm, since my factory alarm is still working. Not quite 2 years out of it.

My biggest complaint about the Viper system, is the remote. And I'm not even talking about this whole short battery life issue. This is my THIRD remote. I bought this, after the first two, which came with the unit, stopped working. All three have at least one broken "stand" inside the casing, though I can't be sure that's related to it.

Too many damn e-gremlins. Oddly, they all have some sort of non-factory relation. Viper itself is obviously aftermarket. The TPMS sensors in the wheels are aftermarket, since I ordered the whole tire, wheel and sensor as a package from TireRack in March '11. The P0107, or rather the MAP sensor is mounted on the inlet of the Sprintex supercharger. The tail lights were Sylvania Silverstar Ultra (yeah yeah, they ain't that great).

And this is after I decided I'm gonna stick with it for a while longer, not trade "up" to the 3rd gen Fit.

Anyone else get the feeling that my Fit is telling me to give up and get the 3rd gen Fit anyway?

 

Put in Raammat on all 5 doors, rear wheel wells, and the spare tire compartment.
Didn't do a thing in dropping outside noise decibals. Nearly $200 to put 25lbs more weight on my car :/

 

get rid of the SC, prolly causing all your problems.

as far as the viper alarm. my remotes still work great. on all 3 cars. oldest being 14 years old still going strong. my only complaint with the new viper alarm on my Fit is that i have to replace the battery at least once a year. doesn't really bother me when it dies out since i can still use the key fob to unlock. just can't start it. else i just use the android app to start it from my phone. i barely even remote start it since my MPGs drop, only when its snowing and i know my car will be icey.

was doin a retrofit on my 6th gen accord and lost damn control of my dremel and sliced my finger. didnt even feel it. =(

 

(if "little" slice) Band-aided the finger?

(if bigger slice)... gauze lots of tape? or just flat out go to e-room?

While the sc could be related to the current limp code, I don't see how they're affecting TPMS and tail lights... especially some 9 months after install. Though, maybe it was the leaking oil? After all, some of it got on the exposed coils of the alternator and who knows what else.

The remotes work fine... until it comes time to replace the battery. It doesn't make any sense to me... is something shorting it out or something? The other day, before my last battery change, I manage to get it working, a few times and each time, after flipping the hidden valet switch. To be specific, the car responded to the fob. But eventually, it still stopped responding.

I agree that using the remote starter and otherwise keeping the engine running is killing my MPG, not having it running is a few other kinds of annoying.

My Kenwood DNN991HD (and the previous DNX9980HD) take their sweet time to boot up. By triggering the start as I'm grabbing the deliveries, the unit would be up and running by the time I'm in the car. It's useful in the cases where I don't recognize the address. I can start driving and inputting/searching the address (voice commands are great, so long as it picks up) right away. Otherwise, I have to sit and wait up to a minute for it to get to the navi screen, which is problematic when we're in a rush and I have more deliveries by the minute.

Without the Viper running my engine, I have to shutdown, and more importantly re-crank the car every time. Where as, with it running, I can take my keys and lock the car while I run in and out of the restaurant or when handing over the food (sometimes in less than 30 seconds). Pretty sure its short enough that cranking the engine uses more fuel and induces more wear on the starter. Not to mention the Kenwood reboots (and everything that entails).

In any case, while I can use my phone to remote start the car, that's only if its armed... but I can't even ARM the remote starter without a working remote, all because it's a manual transmission. Part of the arming process is pushing a button on the remote while the engine is still running. I tried to see if the command center button (the one where the antenna is), or anything on the phone's smart start app would work, but nadda... has to be the fob. On the flip side, using my phone has a(n inherent?) delay compared to a fob... and that's also annoying/problematic at times.

Incidentally, it's not integrated with my OE key fob either. In fact, the factory Sport alarm still works separately, though it will trigger the viper to sound the siren if I unlock the doors via stock keys/fob while Viper alarm is armed.

This is one of the reasons I thought about getting a new Fit... getting the EX-L w/Navi would simplify much of it. Granted, OEM navigation isn't that great, but the design of the center dash means aftermarket will really look terrible. Moving on, having passive lock/unlock with push button start means I don't have to fumble with my keys when my hands are full during deliveries (putting bags down isn't much of an option when it comes to food, especially when it rains). And then get the basic remote starter that is compatible with passive keys and push button start. The EX-L w/navi will be CVT, so there's no longer an remote starter arming process either.

~~~~~

Ya know... after mentioning the oil and alternator... I wonder... could that be the cause of the e-gremlins? Man, I might need to borrow the Pathfinder, so I can leave the car at a mechanic to have them go over the car with a fine tooth comb.

 

for me yesterday, i slapped on the factory rear bumper applique on my '12... my wife got me one as a brownie points prize. woot! scratches are now covered.

 

More info please.
Part #? Was it a direct plug & play?



I finally installed the Plasmacluster dome light, it's bright but kinda bulky. Not sure how I like it so far.
I would've done the steering wheel or horns, but I spent the rest of the day cleaning detailing the interior.

I gotta do my oil, transmission & brake fluids change this weekend.

 

39150-T0A-G01ZF is the part number but I don't think you'll be able to locate it via google search, bought mine on ebay from casakeytw.

It is NOT direct P&P, although the hardware will mount just fine in the existing hole on the roof and even reuse the same stock locking nut. The CONNECTOR is different, I dismantled both antenna's and did some light soldering work and switched the harness altogether. Signal seems about the same so far