Have any output pictures. I have the same setup waiting to be installed except I got the apollo 3.0 shroud.

 

Both great sets of info!

Need to verify caliper/wheel clearance and if they wont fit that'll make it easy to just go rotors/pads only haha. 3D printing a template to the dimensions Wilwood provided to verify wheel clearance.

 

Shinjari,

If anything beyond pads/disks, I'd do ITR calipers. A few dudes in my area track their Fits & all have gone with ITR setups.

 

What exactly does a retrofit with these entail? The projectors themselves seem affordable.

 

Is that similar to the s2K upgrades people were doing?

Big unanswered question right now is whether I can even fit a larger rotor with the 15's I'm running.

 

All of them run 15's.

Not sure how they compare to S2000 calipers. AFAIK S2000 brakes don't clear 15's, EDIT: S2000 brakes fit within 15's.

 

Need side profile pic! =)

Thats good to know. Currently considering hawk (less dust) or ebc green (more bite/dust) and some blank rotors like EBC or brembo. Can get (2) rotors and pads for under $120 which seems more feasible than dumping $400+ especially when I'm trying to get some bilsteins haha.

 

Hawk HPS have crap bite. They're OEM replacements & not impressive ones.

 

I've heard that Hawks need to warm up...which makes me lean towards the EBC's. Or hell maybe I should just get some duralast ceramics from Vatozone and take advantage of that lifetime warranty.

 

I have EBC Green stuff pads and EBC Slotted rotors with ATE type 200 brake fluid.

I don't remember what I paid but it was reasonable. Shop around for a deal.

They bite a lot harder than stock. They don't really need to warm up and they don't fade after a heavy day of AutoX. The only downside is they produce a lot of brake dust! Thankfully I have bronze wheels so its not that noticeable, but any other color will show up significantly.

 

This is definitely something I was considering. I dont think I'd benefit from the slotted besides the aesthetics/visual of them peeking thru my Gram lights. SO maybe I'll save myself $50ish and just buy blanks.

Dust isnt that big a deal as my wheels are mag/dark blue...practically black. Thanks for the info Mr. Hollow.

 

Slotted do have performance benefits though. The slots actually help to even out the pads when they rotate so you get a clean flat pad surface which is ideal because it creates a smoother contact area. Normal pads/rotors get grooves in them over long time use.

Drilled/ cross drilled rotors have no benefit. It reduces the braking contact patch area as well as as makes the rotor more susceptible to cracking because it loses some of its rigidity.

Although feel free to just use a good blank rotor too. Experts say its the best type, while others argue for slotted due to the slight performance factor.

 

This is the kit I got black Friday. comes with everything you need. all you do is bake the headlight open and screw in the projector, aim and seal back up. took me a day start to finish

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/co...s-stage-3.html

 

All points I've recently read about =). Use blanks and save $50 or spend extra $50 to get slotted and possibly go thru pads slightly faster. This is a DD so leaning towards blanks.

Thanks for the resource! I was just looking at my headlights today and how they are getting punished by the sun and in dire need of a polishing...maybe a retrofit AND polish are due.

 

Thanks for the link. It's nice that everything is all bundled. Might have to take a closer look at this in a few months.

 

Inspired by Mr. Hollow J's Racing Yellow Tow Hook
but J's Racing no longer sell it in Yellow color but only Red now...
and
Can't resist the 2017 yen promo discount from Rakuten Global.
So...
Ordered Laile/Beatrush Front Yellow Tow Hook for Honda Fit GE8
and Front Yellow Tow Hook for Honda N-One (I hope this one is shorter so it will fit my modified Reinforcement Bar where it thread in relation to the JDM RS Rear Bumper better)...
Order directly from Laile/Beatrush shop at Rakuten,
They just email me, they are out of stock, will be available middle of this month.

 

I like yellow tow hooks, i wanted one, but dont track my car and dont want it for street use.

So it didnt happen lol i do have an itch for something, i want to add something to the Fit. Just dont know what.

 

ohhhhh... I don't track my car
tooo old

I just have this yellow fetish

 

I track my car!

Nice purchase, those Beatrush Tow hooks are expensive!

It will look great! Did you try going through j's racing US site? I think on their website it's still listed as yellow...?

J'S RACING USA

Although their online shopping cart is down so you have to call them. They are located in California.

 

Hi Mr. Hollow,
Yes, I did look at J's Racing USA, but when I see there is no way to add to cart and have to call, I figure it must be because they never updated their website anyway and I lose hope they even have yellow, so I decide not to bother calling them hahaha...

oh, there is discount at Rakuten up until yesterday for 2017 yen (like year 2017) if you buy above 15,000 yen...
so my total before shipping is 18,000 yen... so most likely I paid around $190 total with shipping... and I buy directly from Beatrush...
It is about the same price if I buy the red one from J's Racing...

You got a good deal on yours for the front yellow J's Racing one because that guy on fitfreak classified just want to get rid of his...
I did PM that guy before I order from beatrush for the rear one, but he never respond so he must have sold the rear one too...

Anyway... I really hope my gambling of buying the Honda N-One for the rear tow hook pay off because I know for sure the front Beatrush one will be too long for the rear bumper but at the same time the Honda N-One beatrush might be too short for my bumper since my Mugen Lower Under Spoiler stick out like 3/4 inch...
if that is the case, then I will be forced to buy the Front Beatrush for GE and cut the stud a bit... but that mean buy again...

if that happened, I will have to sell the Honda N-One tow hook at discount here on fitfreak classified

by the way, I just return from 1.5 hour road tuning session with my wife handling the laptop...
I have this knocking around 2,500 to 3,000 rpm at 0.2 bar of boost (part throttle)... I had retard the timing to -2.63 at that point and increase the fuel on my AEM F/IC-6 which reduce the knocking but it still exists...
I can't continue more tonight because my wife is tired plus my laptop is almost run out of battery...

I wish I win lottery so I can buy my own dyno